ATTACH_Spec.pdf

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AMSC N/A FSC 8405

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-18186E(MC)

13 February 2017

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-18186D(MC)

12 September 1984

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CROWNS, SERVICE AND DRESS CAP

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers removable service and dress cap crowns.

1.2 Classification. The service and dress cap crowns are of the following types and sizes as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types.

a. Type I – Microdenier Polyester, Twill, Laminated, White 2414

b. Type II – (Wool Serge; Green) – DELETED

c. Type III – Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Laminated, Green 2212

1.2.2 Sizes. Service and dress cap crowns are of the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes in inches

6 6½ 7 7½

6⅛ 65⁄8 7⅛ 75⁄8

6¼ 6¾ 7¼ 7¾

63⁄8 6⅞ 73⁄8

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

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FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-59963 - Thread, Polyester

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-129 - Military Marking for Shipment and Storage

MIL-STD-1394 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cap Crowns

MIL-STD-1916 - DoD Preferred Methods for Acceptance of Product

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC EP9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC TM20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home & Commercial: Accelerated

AATCC TM128 - Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method

AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method

AATCC TM135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC TM193 - Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org/.)

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ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus

ASTM D3574 - Standard Test Methods for Flexible Cellular Materials–Slab, Bonded, and Molded Urethane Foams

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for each type crown shall conform to the following:

a. Type I: Cloth, twill: microdenier, polyester, 6.5 ounces, white shade 2414.

b. Type III: Cloth, gabardine, polyester/wool, 10.6 ounces, green shade 2212, conforming to Type II, Class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176.

Type I cloth shall be 100-percent microdenier polyester cloth. The weave shall be 2/2 right hand twill. The shade shall be white shade 2414 and shall match the standard sample. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC EP 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight (D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500±200 K, with illumination of 100±20 foot candles) and shall be a good match to the standard samples under horizon lamplight at 2300±200 K. The cloth shall be lightly brushed as to provide a face and back finish equal to that of the standard sample. The face of the cloth shall be marked “face” at both ends of each roll with letters not less than ½ inch in height. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible medium used commercially. Fabric edges shall not be rolled, folded, double scalloped or wavy, and the fabric shall not be skewed, bowed, baggy, ridgy, or wavy. The Type I cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in table I.

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TABLE I. Type I basic material physical requirements.

Material characteristic Reference paragraph Material requirement Weight, ounces/square yard 4.3.1 6 – 7 Fiber identification 4.3.1 Microdenier polyester Weave 4.3.1 2/2 right hand twill Yarns per inch (minimum) 4.3.1

Warp 4.3.1 140 Filling 4.3.1 70

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum) 4.3.1 Warp 160 Filling 45

Elmendorf tear, pounds (minimum) 4.3.1 Warp 4.0 Filling 3.0

Dimensional stability, percent (maximum) 4.3.1 Warp 3.0 Filling 3.0

Colorfastness to (minimum): 4.3.1 Laundering (1 cycle) 4.0 Light, (40 hours or 170 Kilojoule) 4.0 Crocking 4.0

Wrinkle resistance, rating (minimum) 4.3.1 3.5 Liquid repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry: 4.3.1

As received: 6 1 wash 6 10 wash 5 20 wash 4 30 wash 4

Oil repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry: 4.3.1 As received: 6 1 wash 5 10 wash 5 20 wash 4 30 wash 3

Soil release - mineral oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry: 4.3.1 1 wash 3.5 10 wash 3.5 20 wash 3.5 30 wash 3.5

Soil release - corn oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry: 4.3.1 1 wash 3.5 10 wash 3.5 20 wash 3.5 30 wash 3.5

3.3.1.1 Laminate for type I basic material. The Type I basic material shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the cover. It shall be laminated by applying an interlock material to the basic material using a web adhesive. The interlock’s yarn size and type shall be 1/70/34 denier textured polyester with a weight per linear yard of 5.5 ounces. The web adhesive shall be a hot melt adhesive product in nonwoven form.

3.3.1.2 Laminate for type III basic material. The Type III basic material shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the cover. It shall be laminated by flame bonding foam to the material. The polyester polyurethane foam shall conform to the physical properties in table II.

TABLE II. Polyester polyurethane foam requirements.

Physical property Requirement Test method

Density, pound/feet³ 1.2+10% ASTM D3574 Tensile strength, pounds per square inch (minimum) 15.0 ASTM D3574 Elongation, percent (minimum) 300 ASTM D3574 Tear resistance, pounds per linear inch (minimum) 3.0 ASTM D3574 Compression force deflection, psi (minimum) ASTM D3574

25% deflection 0.3 50% deflection 0.3

Retention of tensile strength after 3 hours, 221 °F (105 °C, steam autoclave, % (minimum) 70 ASTM D3574

3.3.2 Lining for crown (type III). The material for lining the Type III crowns shall be a 100-percent polyester cloth conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining shall be green shade 2209.

3.3.3 Thread. Thread for seaming, stitching, overedging, and for making buttonholes shall be as specified in table III for each type crown.

TABLE III. Thread.

Operation Thread

Polyester Silk

Seaming, stitching Type I (inside and outside);

Type III (inside)

Type III (outside)

Left twist, tex size 24, 3-ply (needle and bobbin)

Left twist, tex size 60, 3-ply (needle and bobbin)

Overedge stitching Types I and III Left twist, soft finish ticket No. 70, 2-ply (needle and bobbin)

Buttonholes Type I Type III Left twist, tex size 24, 3-ply (needle and bobbin)

Left twist, tex size 60, 3-ply (needle and looper)

3.3.3.1 Polyester thread. The polyester thread shall be tex size 24, 3-ply conforming to Type I, Class 1 of

A-A-59963 and to the requirements specified in table III. As an alternate, polyester covered cotton thread, tex size range 31-35, 2-ply, conforming to Type II of A-A-50199 may be used.

3.3.3.2 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to Type – Machine Twist of A-A-50196 and to the requirements specified in table III.

3.3.3.3 Color and colorfastness. The color of the thread for Type I crowns shall be white shade (bleached) Cable No. 66050 and the color of the thread for Type III crowns shall be olive drab shade T-1, Cable No. 66023.

The colored threads, when tested in accordance with the applicable thread specification (see 3.3.3), shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, and in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light.

3.3.4 Eyelets and washers. The eyelets and washers shall be brass (0.008+0.001 inch thick) and shall conform to the style and dimensions shown on figure 1. The entire eyelet, or the flange only of the eyelet, shall be enameled to closely match the shade of the basic material. The barrel of the eyelets shall be scored with 6 to 8 scores.

3.3.5 Labels. Each crown shall have a cloth combination identification-size label and a label/tag conforming to

3.3.5.1 and 3.3.5.2. Marking for intermediate packages shall conform to 3.3.5.3.

3.3.5.1 Identification-size label. Each crown shall be provided with combined identification-size label conforming to Type VI, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075, except the content shall include the name of supplier 1/, and in addition, the Wool Products Act information shall be included in the label for Type III crowns. The label shall measure not less than 1¾ inches by 1¼ inches with a minimum ¼-inch margin at the top for sewing. The label shall show fastness to laundering and dry cleaning. Instructions for laundering shall be included as indicated:

Type I Instruction Information:

MACHINE WASH WARM, PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE.

TUMBLE DRY, LOW SETTING.

REMOVE PROMPTLY.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH.

Type III Instruction Information:

SPOT CLEAN ONLY.

DRY CLEANING NOT RECOMMENDED.

3.3.5.2 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial UPC shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and UPC shall be medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.3.5.3 Marking. When specified (see 6.2), intermediate packages shall be marked in accordance with the requirements of MIL-STD-129.

1/ Size of characters for name of supplier shall be minimum 6 point (approximately 1⁄16 inch).

3.4 Design. The crown shall be the Marine Corps design shown in figure 2 having a one-piece crown, two front and two back quarters, and a two-ply one-piece headband. One buttonhole shall be at each side of headband for attaching crown to cap frame. Buttonholes shall finish parallel to and 3⁄8±1⁄16 inch from lower edge of headband with the purling on the outside; center of buttonholes shall be 5¾±⅛ inches from center of crown. There shall be two metal eyelets on each side and one on front; the front eyelet shall be centered on the front seam; the side eyelets shall be properly positioned from side seam and top and bottom edges of quarters. The center of each side eyelet shall be 1±⅛ inch from its corresponding side seam, and in horizontal alignment. The center of all eyelets shall be midway between the upper and lower edges of the quarters. All raw edges shall be overedge stitched, and the crown of Type III fully lined. Both Type I and III crowns shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the cover. The crowns are designed to properly fit the cap frame and crown support with which they are intended to be used (see 6.1).

3.5 Patterns. When specified (see 6.2), standard patterns shall be furnished to the supplier by the Government.

Unless otherwise specified in this document, the standard patterns shall provide a ¼-inch allowance for all seams.

Standard patterns shall show size, seam allowance, direction lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper cutting, placement, and assembly of the component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The crowns shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with pattern parts as specified in table IV.

TABLE IV. Pattern parts.

Item Pattern nomenclature Piece name No. of cut parts

Material: basic material with laminate 1 Quarters, front C18186-QUARTR FRNT 2 2 Quarters, back C18186-QUARTER BCK 2 3 Crown C18186-CROWN 1 4 Headband C18186-HEADBAND 1 Material: Cloth, polyester

5 Lining, crown (Type III) C-18186-CRWN LINING 1

3.6 Construction. The crowns shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in table V.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The crowns shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in table V.

3.6.1.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. The crowns shall be constructed in accordance with the stitch types and stitches per inch specified in table V. Whenever two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the crown. The number of stitches per inch as specified in table V indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Overedge or serge stitching shall be done on serging machines with the knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting material.

TABLE V. Stitching.

Operation Stitch type Seam/stitch type Stitches per inch Topstitch, single needle stitch, or straight stitch:

Construct headband: join ends SSa-1 12-16 Construct headband: fold in half lengthwise and join OSf-1 12-16

Construct quarters: join at sides Join quarters to crown

SSz-3 (a) 12-16

Construct quarters: topstitch Topstitch quarters and crown SSz-3 (b) 12-16

Topstitch quarters-headband seam LSg-2 12-16

Topstitch, single needle stitch, or straight stitch or Single needle chain-stitch:

Attach lining to crown (Type III only)

301 or 401

SSa-1 6-8

Single needle overedge seam or

Serge with double purl on edge 504 or 505 Efd-1 6-8

Safety-stitch:

Join headband to quarters 515 or 516 or 519 SSa-2 10-14

Buttonhole Buttonhole - 48 per buttonhole including tack

3.6.1.2 Tacking and backstitching. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch when not caught in other seams or stitching shall be backtacked not less than ¼ inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than ½ inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, and skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301 back-stitched not less than ½ inch on each side of the skip or break.

3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of the crown shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the crown. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration and the adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

c. Any marking medium which would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.7 Finished measurements. The finished crown shall conform to the measurements as specified in table VI.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (in inches).

Size Circumference 1/ Height of headband 2/

Height of quarters at: 3/ Crown front to back 4/ Crown side to side 5/ Front Sides Back

6 20⅞ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 93⁄8 9⅛

6⅛ 21¼ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 95⁄8 93⁄8 6¼ 215⁄8 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 9¾ 9½

63⁄8 22 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 10 9¾

6½ 223⁄8 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 10⅛ 9⅞

65⁄8 22¾ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 10¼ 10⅛

6¾ 23⅛ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 10½ 10¼

6⅞ 23½ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 105⁄8 103⁄8 7 23⅞ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 10⅞ 105⁄8

7⅛ 24¼ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 11 10¾

7¼ 245⁄8 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 11⅛ 11

73⁄8 25 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 113⁄8 11⅛

7½ 253⁄8 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 11½ 113⁄8

75⁄8 25¾ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 11¾ 11½

7¾ 26⅛ 111⁄16 23⁄8 2¼ 2⅛ 11⅞ 115⁄8 Tolerance: ±¼ ±1⁄16 ±⅛ ±⅛ ±⅛ ±⅛ ±⅛

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Measurement for crown circumference shall be taken by laying the crown headband flat and measuring from folded edge to folded edge; this measurement shall be doubled.

2/ Measurement for height of headband shall be taken from the lower finished edge of headband to the lower raised edge of quarters.

3/ Measurement for height of quarters shall be taken at the front, side, and back seams, respectively, from the lower raised edge of quarters to the crown seam.

4/ Measurement for crown front to back shall be taken beginning where the seam for the two front quarter pieces and crown intersect, and end where the seam for the two back quarter pieces and crown seam intersect.

5/ Measurement for crown side to side shall be taken beginning where the seam for the front and back quarter pieces and crown intersect and end on the opposite side where the adjacent front and back quarter pieces and crown intersect.

NOTE: Finished measurements shall be taken as illustrated in figure 3.

3.8 Fit. Each size crown shall properly fit the corresponding size cap frame and crown support for which it is intended (see 4.5.3.2 and 6.1). Crowns shall fit snugly without distorting either the headband of the frame or the crown wire of the support. Quarters shall have a smooth, rounded appearance without twisting, wrinkles, or other distortions. The crown shall lie smooth and flat without twisting, wrinkles, or other distortions. The headband of the crown shall extend down to the welt on headband of frame without stretching or wrinkling. Buttonholes shall properly engage with posts on frame without twists, wrinkles, or other distortions. The front eyelet of crown shall center on stay of crown support. As an alternate method of measurement, the band circumference may be taken using a 10A gage by fitting the band on the gage and applying pressure past the normal alignment and then relaxing pressure until the alignment is correct at the mark and read measurement.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished crown shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. It shall be free from any irregular defects that can adversely affect usage or durability, defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function and those defects specified in 4.5.3.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the levels as specified (see 6.2).

3.10 Figures. Figure 1 specifies requirements for the crown’s components. Figure 2 is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. When first article is required, inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated crown for conformance to all provisions of this specification (see 3.1). This inspection shall include conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7 and the examination of defects specified in 4.5.3.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7, the examination of defects specified in 4.5.3.1, and the examination of tests itemized as specified. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

Each roll in the sample size shall be examined yard-by-yard. All defects found shall be counted regardless of their proximity to each other except where two or more defects represent a single local condition, in which case only the more serious defect shall be counted. The lot size shall be expressed in yards. The sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards full width finished cloth. The number of rolls from which the sample is to be selected shall be as specified in table VII. For lots which contain fewer than three rolls, each roll in the lot shall be examined. All defects, as defined in FED-STD-4, that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet), and the defects specified in 4.5.3.1 shall count as a defect.

TABLE VII. Sample size.

Lot size (in yards) Sample size (in rolls)

1,200 or less 3 1,201 - 3,200 5

3,201 - 10,000 8 10,001 - 35,000 13 35,001 - 150,000 20 150,001 and over 32

4.3.1 Testing of components. Components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, figures, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, figures, and standards, testing shall be performed on components listed in table VIII for characteristics noted. All test reports should contain individual values when expressing the final results (see 6.2).

TABLE VIII. Test methods.

Components Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method

Number determinations per sample unit

Results reported as

Eyelets Material identification

3.3.4 Standard

Commercial

1 Pass or fail

Color (flange) 3.3.4 Visual 1 Pass or fail Scores 3.3.4 Visual 1 Pass or fail

Washer Material identification

3.3.4 Standard

Commercial

1 Pass or fail

Type I basic material

Weight 3.3.1 ASTM D3776 Ounces/square yard

Fiber identification 3.3.1 AATCC TM20A Weave 3.3.1 Visual 1/ Yarns per inch

Warp Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D3775 Minimum

Breaking strength, pounds

Warp Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D5034 Pounds, minimum

Elmendorf tear Warp Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D1424 Pounds, minimum

Dimensional stability Warp Filling

3.3.1 AATCC TM135,

3 cycles

Percent, maximum

TABLE VIII. Test methods – Continued.

Components Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method

Number determinations per sample unit

Results reported as

Colorfastness to:

Laundering (1 cycle), 2/ Light, (40 hours or 170 Kilojoule), 2/ Crocking 3/

3.3.1

AATCC TM61,

option 1A

AATCC TM16.3,

option A

AATCC TM8

Rating, minimum

Wrinkle Resistance 3.3.1 AATCC TM128 Rating, minimum

Liquid repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

As received 1 wash 10 wash 20 wash 30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM193 Rating, minimum

Oil repellency cycle I, temp III (105 °F), tumble dry:

As received 1 wash 10 wash 20 wash 30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

Soil release - mineral oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash 10 wash 20 wash 30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

Soil release - corn oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash 10 wash 20 wash 30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

TABLE VIII. Test methods – Continued.

Components Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method

Number determinations per sample unit

Results reported as

Polyester polyurethane foam

Density 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pound/feet³ Tensile strength 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per square inch, minimum

Elongation 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Percent, minimum

Tear resistance 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per linear inch, minimum

Compression force deflection 25% deflection 50% deflection

3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per

square inch, minimum

Retention of tensile strength after 3 hours, 221 °F (105 °C), steam autoclave

3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Percent, minimum

NOTES:

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass or fail”.

2/ Rated using the AATCC gray scale for color change and AATCC gray scale for staining.

3/ Rated using the AATCC EP9-step chromatic transference scale.

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in MIL-STD-1916, except where otherwise indicated in MIL-STD-1394.

4.5 Conformance inspection.

4.5.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all requirements of references specifications, figures, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, figures, and standards, testing shall be performed on components listed in table VIII for characteristics noted. All test reports should contain individual values when expressing the final results (see 6.2).

4.5.2 Sampling for testing. Testing shall conform to the sampling provision tables cited in MIL-STD-1394.

4.5.3 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall conform to the provisions of

MIL-STD-1394.

4.5.3.1 Defects. Defects shall be classified in accordance with table IX.

TABLE IX. Defects.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Material defects and workmanship 1/

Any hole or weakening defect, such as broken, missing, or loose yarn smash, multiple float, drill hole, or loose slub that may develop into a hole.

Tears, mend, burn, cut, or needle chew. 102 Abrasion resulting in a thin or weak area. 103 Uneven weaving or incorrect weave. 104 Pattern design not equal to the standard sample. 105 Incorrect color in any part or the pattern; pattern repeat not equal to the standard sample.

Multiple flats or skips, ½ inch or more in either warp or filling direction.

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts. Thread color not as specified.

Dye streak; color not as specified. 109 Cleanness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable. 110

Objectionable odor. 201 Overall cleanliness including soiling, staining, or embedded matter.

Thread ends not trimmed, or loose thread ends not removed. 203 Components and assembly Any component or required operation omitted. 111

Any component not as specified. 112 Cutting Any component part not cut in accordance with specification requirements.

TABLE IX. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor Seams and stitching Accuracy of seaming:

Seams or topstitching twisted, puckered, pleated, not uniform, or otherwise distorted affecting appearance.

End of stitching (when not caught in other seam or stitching) backstitched less than ¼ inch (6.4 mm).

Stitching of thread breaks overlapping less than ½ inch (13 mm) at each end of break.

Any component part caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Gage of stitching:

Unevenly gaged, affecting appearance. 207 Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to item.

Open seams. 2/ Less than ¼ inch (6.4 mm). 208 ¼ inch (6.4 mm) but not more than ½ inch (13 mm). 209 More than ½ inch (13 mm). 116

Raw edges. 3/ 117 Run-offs; edge or raised stitching (when not resulting in an open seam):

¼ inch (6.4 mm) up to ½ inch (13mm) inclusive. 210 More than ½ inch (13 mm). 211

Not specified seam or stitch type. 118 Loose tension resulting in a loose seam or exposed loose top or bottom thread.

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the lengthwise direction of seam or stitching). 4/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of seam).

Headband Not finished smooth and flat. 120 Twists, pleats, puckers, or other distortion at back seam. 121 Not uniform in shape. 122 Edge stitching not uniform in width. 214 Joining seam of headband not in line with back seam of quarters.

Quarters Twists, pleats, puckers, or other distortion at seams. 123 Topstitching not uniform. 124

TABLE IX. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Crown lining (Type III only)

Pleats, puckers, or distortions where the lining joins the crown. 216 Attachment of lining causing visible stitches on outside of finished crown.

Buttonholes Not clean cut and well made. 126 Not correctly positioned. 127 Stitching not securely caught in the fabric. 128

Not finishing parallel to and 3⁄8±1⁄16 inch from lower edge of headband with the purling on the outside.

Center of buttonholes not 5¾±⅛ inches from center of front crown.

Eyelets Not attached from the outside and securely clinched on the inside.

Attachment causing distortion of, or damage to, the crown or splitting the flange of the eyelet.

Front eyelet not centered on the front seam. 133 Side eyelets not properly positioned. Center of each side eyelet shall be 1±⅛ inch from its corresponding side seam.

The center of all eyelets shall be midway between the upper and lower edges of quarters. Side eyelets shall be in horizontal alignment.

Barcode labels/tags Bar code omitted or not readable by scanner. Human-readable interpretation omitted or illegible.

Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item. 218 Combined identification and size label not securely caught in stitching, or stitching through the printing.

Combined identification and size label missing, incorrect, or illegible.

Causes damage to the item. 136

NOTES:

1/ Material defects are to be classified as indicated only when the condition is one which definitely weakens the fabric or when it is so conspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable. Material defects which are inconspicuous and do not weaken the fabric shall not be classified as defects.

2/ A seam shall be classified as open when one or more stitches joining a seam are broken or when two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches occur.

3/ Raw edges not securely caught in the stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When puckering is evident, seam shall be tested by exerting pull in lengthwise direction of seam or stitching.

4.5.3.2 Fit test. Crowns shall be fit tested against applicable cap frames in accordance with schedule of crown sizes being purchased. The following selected (*) defects are applicable to crowns which improperly fit the corresponding size cap frame. When specified (see 6.2), sample cap frames required for this test may be obtained from the procurement activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Head Size:

*Defect: Headband of crown fitting frame too loose causing fullness (wrinkles) on band or too tight not permitting crown to be fitted without distorting headband of frame.

Crown Size:

*Defect: Circumference of top crown too small, not permitting crown wire to lie smoothly or distorting crown or quarters affecting appearance. Adjustable crown wires may be adjusted in where necessary.

*Defect: Circumference of top crown too large, not providing snug fit on crown wire or distorting quarters affecting appearance. Adjustable crown wires may be adjusted where necessary.

4.5.4 Dimensional examination. The dimensional examination provisions for the finished crown shall be as listed in 3.7 and conform to MIL-STD-1394.

4.5.5 Examination of packaging. As specified (see 6.2), the examination for compliance with packaging, packing, and marking requirements shall conform to MIL-STD-1394.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. This specification covers both white microdenier polyester twill dress cap crowns as well as polyester/wool gabardine service cap crowns intended for use with the dress and service cap frame and crown support conforming to MIL-DTL-20268. The referenced cap crowns and frames are intended for wear with Marine Corps Dress and Service Uniforms.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Classification (see 1.2).

c. When first article is required (see 3.1).

d. Requirements for intermediate packages (see 3.3.5.3, 4.5.5, and 6.3).

e. Patterns (see 3.5).

f. Acceptable quality levels (see 3.9).

g. Sampling for inspection (see 4.3).

h. Test report values (see 4.3.1 and 4.5.1).

i. Sample cap frames (see 4.5.3.2).

j. Packaging requirements (see 4.5.5 and 5.1).

6.3 Intermediate packaging. A white paper label with the following information legibly printed or stamped thereon in black should be inserted within each polyethylene bag in order to permit ready identification:

Nomenclature

Size__________ Stock number__________

Contract number

Contractor

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Enlisted Frame Officer

6.5 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

(All measurements are in inches) FIGURE 1. Eyelet and washer.

FIGURE 2. Front and inside lining (type III only) views.

FIGURE 3. Finished measurement instructions.

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC DLA – CT (Project 8405-2016-005)

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/