24_004 Table I.docx

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24_004 Cloth, Knitted, Polyester, Swiss Pique
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24_004
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This document is a Request for Information (RFI) issued by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility (NCTRF) for knitted swiss pique fabrics to be used in the Navy's physical training t-shirt. NCTRF is seeking domestic fabrics that meet or exceed the physical and performance characteristics outlined in Table I, including requirements for fiber content, weight, bursting strength, pilling resistance, air permeability, and colorfastness. Interested parties are required to submit a cover sheet with company and contact information, a minimum of 5 yards of the fabric, a detailed material description, applicable test reports, lead time and pricing information, and documentation on the country of origin and safety of the finished product. Submissions are due by COB on June 28, 2024, and will be evaluated for suitability for future physical training uniform procurements.

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Table I Material Requirements

Characteristics
Test Methods
Requirements
Fiber content
AATCC 20A
100% Polyester
Knit
Visual
Swiss Pique

Yarn ply Wales Courses Visual

Single Single

Yarn per inch (minimum) Wales Courses

ASTM D3887

Weight, ounces per square yard
ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C
4.0 ± 0.3
Bursting Strength, pounds (minimum)
ASTM D3787
120
Resistance to Pilling, Random Tumble, Rating (minimum)
ASTM D3512/D3512M
4.0
Air Permeability, ft3/min/ft2. (minimum)
ASTM D737
150

Fabric Stretch (maximum) Wales Courses ASTM D2594 (Loose Fit)

Dry Time, minutes
NCTRF Method 1/
80
Vertical Wicking (maximum)
AATCC 197, Option B
6 inches/30 minutes
pH
AATCC 81
5.5 to 8.5

Dimensional Change, percent (maximum) Wales Courses AATCC 135, 3, IV, Aiii 2/

5.0 5.0

Colorfastness (minimum) Laundering Color Change Staining Perspiration Acid Color Change Staining Alkaline Color Change Staining Light (40 hrs./170 kilojoules) Crocking Dry Wet

AATCC 61, Test 2A 3/

AATCC 15 4/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 5/

AATCC 8 6/

3-4

4.0 3.0

Opacity, percent (minimum) Dry Wet AATCC Procedure 6 7/

Notes:

1/ Drying Time Testing. The cloth shall be tested for drying time.

1a/ Apparatus and Materials

Wringer (motor driven) (see notes). Laboratory balance, accurate to 0.1g. White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper, 25 x 25 cm (see notes). Water, distilled. 250 ml glass beaker.

1b/ Test Specimens

The fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65 +/- 2% RH and 70 +/- 2°F for a minimum of 4 hours.

3 test specimens per sample, 2 x 2 inches.

1c/ Procedure:

1. Test shall be run in standard conditions, 65 +/-2% RH and 70 +/- 2°F.

2. Weigh the conditioned specimen using a laboratory balance accurate to 0.lg.

3. Place I00 mL of distilled water into a 250 mL glass beaker.

4. Submerge the specimen in the beaker of water for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged to insure complete wetting.

5. Remove the specimen and sandwich it between two pieces of unused blotting paper. Pass the sandwich through the wringer with a dead weight load of 27.7 +/- 0.5 kg.

6. Immediately place specimen on the balance with top door of the balance open and record wet weight. Manually monitor weight at set intervals until dry or use an automated balance with capability to weigh specimen until dry (see notes). Record time to dry.

7. Repeat for remaining specimens. Average the 3 specimens.

2/ The test specimens shall be subjected to five (5) washing and drying cycles before the shrinkage and/or elongation values are calculated. The dimensional change shall be performed after 5 cycles. The cloth shall not be pressed after tumble drying prior to measurement.

3/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried three complete cycles. The specimen shall be dried after each of the three laundering cycles. Rated using the AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC EP2, Gray Scale for Staining. Stain on all multifiber transfer swatches shall be evaluated.

4/ Rated using the AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC EP2, Gray Scale for Staining. Stain on all multifiber transfer swatches shall be evaluated.

5/ Rated using the AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change 6/ Rated using the AATCC EP8, AATCC EP 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

7/ Opacity Testing. The basic body cloth shall be measured for opacity. Opacity or hiding power, as defined by AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 involves measuring the test specimen backed by both a black tile background (less than 5%) and a white tile background (greater than 75%, less than 85%) substrate. Normally calibration tiles provided with the measurement equipment are sufficient. Most sphere spectrophotometers have this method built into software.

Procedure for measuring dry opacity:

1. Test three specimens. Each knitted specimen shall consist of a single ply, 6 x 6 inch piece.

2. Measure for opacity using the instrument described in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 and the procedure described above.

3. Results from the three test specimens shall be an average of 3 reads and the results reported as dry opacity when using the calculation procedure described above.

4. Individual values of the 3 reads that fall below the requirement of Table I shall be retested with another specimen.

Procedure for measuring wet opacity:

1. Test three specimens. Each cloth specimen shall consist of a single ply, 6 x 6 inch piece.

2. Place 100 ml of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250 ml beaker.

3. Place one specimen at a time in the beaker making certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.

4. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two pieces of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters.

Repeat this process for the remaining two specimens.

5. Measure for opacity using the instrument described in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 and the procedure described above.

6. Results from the three test specimens shall be an average of 3 reads and the results reported as wet opacity when using the calculation procedure described above.

7. Individual values of the 3 reads that fall below the requirement of Table I shall be retested with another specimen.

Opacity Percent Calculation:

1. Opacity percent is then calculated from the “Y” value of the measurement-over-black (Y/b) background divided by the “Y” value of the measurement-over-white (Y/w) background using D65/10 default, therefore (Y/b divided by Y/w) x 100 = % opacity.

2. Using the method described, the dry and wet opacity average of the cloth shall be greater than or equal to the requirement stated in Table I.

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