Skirt_Female_SDB_CG_PD_15-20.pdf

CG/PD 15-20

May 6, 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRT, WOMAN'S DRESS, POLYESTER/WOOL

1. SCOPE. This Purchase Description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool serge dress skirt. The skirt is intended to be worn by female officers and enlisted personnel of the US Coast Guard as part of the Coast Guard’s service dress uniform.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The skirt shall be of one type in the following sizes:

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Junior (J) – 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22

Misses (M) – 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 Women’s (W) – 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22

Lengths - Short, Regular, and Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the U.S Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester, Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

MIL-DTL-823 Cloth, Serge, wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

(Copies are available on-line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. (see 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

D 1388 Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics D 1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by

Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus D3775 Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabrics D 3776 Standard Test Method for Test Method for Mass per Unit Area

(Weight) of Fabric

D 5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at www.astm.org. or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://www.astm.org/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light

AATCC 81 pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles AATCC 117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit

Fabrics

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

•ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.1 Design. The skirt shall be an unhemmed straight style. The skirt shall be fully lined and the lining shall be closed at center back placket. The skirt shall have two front quarter top pockets having an opening of 6 + ¼ inches between bartacks. The skirt shall have a one panel front with four pleats, two on each side, with folded edge toward side seam, and a two panel back with two http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ darts on each panel. The skirt shall have a kick pleat finishing left over right and a slide fastener closure with placket at center back. The waistband shall finish 1-1/4 inches wide and have a one inch extension for the one button closure. The waistband shall finish left over right. See Figure 1.

3.1.1 Waistband. The waistband shall be constructed from basic material and interlining.

3.2 Stitching. All lockstitching shall have 12-14 stitches per inch, overedge stitching shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. All raw edges shall be finished with an overedge stitch. The skirt shall have an overedge stitched bottom and shall be unhemmed. The pocket bag shall be safety stitched with 8–10 stitches per inch. The quarter top pockets shall be horizontally bartacked at both ends of the opening. All bartacks shall be ¼ (+1/16) inch long and 1/8 (+1/16) inch wide with a minimum of 21 stitches. The quarter top pockets shall be top stitched ¼ inch from edge.

3.2.1 Buttonholes. The left side of center back placket shall have a horizontal straight cut buttonhole, worked over gimp, centered in the waistband with the cut opening approximately 3/8 inch from end of waistband extension. The buttonhole shall be clean cut with both ends securely barred and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The finished cut opening shall be ¾ + 1/16 inch.

3.3 Material

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the skirt shall be a 55 percent polyester/45 percent wool serge cloth, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall match Coast Guard Blue 3362.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for the skirt lining shall be a 100% polyester twill conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining shall approximate the color of basic material.

3.3.3 Pocketing. The material for the pocketing shall be a black 2/1 twill or plain weave with a minimum weight of 4.3 oz/yd2 when tested as specified in ASTM D 3776, option C (a 15% minus tolerance shall be permitted for 100% polyester material). The yarn shall contain from 47% to 100% polyester with the remainder cotton. When a 100% polyester material is used, the yarn shall be either staple or texturized filament polyester.

3.3.4 Waistband interlining and pocket stay material. The material for the waistband interlining and pocket stay shall be a thermally bonded, binder free nonwoven fusible having a minimum weight of 1.5 oz/yd2 when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3776, option C. The fusible shall be composed of 100% polyester or a combination of polyester and nylon with not less than 50% polyester. The fusible polyamide adhesive shall be applied to one side of the web in a uniform dot pattern. The color shall be black or charcoal gray and shall show fair colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles) when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. For optimum results, fuse time and settings shall be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining. The fused samples shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, change of color, or strike through both initially and after 5 dry cleanings. The sample shall show a minimum bond strength of 22 ounces per inch of width initially and a minimum of 17 ounces per inch of width after 5 drycleanings when tested in accordance with bond strength test (3.3.5.1). The sample shall not shrink or elongate more than 2 percent after 3 dry cleanings when tested in accordance with dimensional stability test (3.3.5.2).

3.3.4.1 Bond strength test. Cut a 12-inch warp by 11-inch filling sample from a blended polyester/cotton (any percentage) plain weave sheeting material that weighs a minimum of 3.5 ounces per square yard. If the fusible cloth is to be supplied for fusing to a known outershell material, the outershell shall be used if possible. Match the adhesive side of the fusible material (warp machine or wale direction) to the backside (warp direction) of the outershell material leaving a 1-inch starter strip along the full filling width. The starter strip may be formed by either placing a thin 1-inch non-adhesive strip between the fusible and basic material, or by folding the fusible 1/2 inch into itself along the full width. Fuse a single layer (fusible cloth to outershell material) in accordance with the producer's own standards for time, temperature, and pressure. Fusing shall be accomplished on a dry electrically heated fusing press capable of controlling time temperature and pressure for a minimum of 8 hours. When cool to the touch cut the sample in half along the warp direction, and cut one of the halves along the warp direction to obtain three 1-inch by 12-inch strips. Pinking sheers shall not be used for cutting specimens.

Determine the bonding strength on a constant rate of extension (CRE), constant rate of traverse (CRT), or calibrated spring scale tensile tester. Clamp the open end of the basic material into the top jaws of the tensile equipment and the fusible starter strip into the bottom jaws. If a spring scale is used, gently pull the fusible starter strip in an even downward motion with the basic material either hooked or clamped onto the spring scale. Each of the three determinations on the sample unit must meet the initial bonding strength requirements. The remaining half of the fused swatch shall be commercially dry cleaned three times using perchlorethylene solvent. Samples shall be bottom steam pressed after drycleaning for twenty seconds in a non-locked position and vacuumed for 10 seconds. Any evidence of bubbling, delamination, or strike through after pressing shall be considered a failure for the sample unit. Acceptable sample units shall be cut and tested for bonding strength in accordance with the initial bonding strength procedure above.

Any sample on which the bonding strength does not meet the after dry cleaning requirements shall fail this test.

3.3.4.2 Dimensional Stability test. A 22-inch by 22-inch square specimen shall be cut parallel to the warp (wale or machine) and filling (course or cross machine) directions to within 3 inches of the selvage from the fusible cloth sample. The fusible material shall be fused to the outershell material in accordance with the procedure outlined in 4.4.1.1. An 18-inch square shall be marked as a minimum at each corner within the 22-in specimen with indelible ink or stitch marks with the side of the square parallel to the yarns of the fusible material. No marks shall be closer to the edge of the specimen than 1 inch. The fusible shall be commercially drycleaned once using perchlorethylene solvent.

3.3.4.2.1 Dimensional stability calculation. Each of the three 22 by 22 inch specimens shall be laid out without tension on a flat surface. Care should be taken that the specimens are free from wrinkles and creases. Care should be taken that the specimens (initial measurements, 18 inches) in the warp direction shall be re-measured to the nearest 1/16-inch, recorded, averaged and calculated for dimensional change. The same procedure shall be repeated for the filling direction. The dimensional change of the sample unit (3 specimens) shall be calculated to the nearest 0.10 percent using the following formula:

Dimensional change, percent = A-B X 100 A A = Average of initial measurements (18 inches) B = Average measurements after drycleaning

3.3.5 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be polyester or nylon continuous monofilament chain, or a single length slide fastener may be used for all skirt sizes. The slide fastener shall have an automatic lock slider with a short tab pull, top stop, staple bottom stop, 7/16 + 1/32 inch width tape. The color of the tape shall be black and shall show "good" colorfastness to wet/drycleaning when tested in accordance with AATCC 132.

3.3.6 Buttons. The button for the back closure shall be melamine composition, 24 line with 4 sewing holes, type II, class D, style 20 or 21 of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be black.

3.3.7 Thread. The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, 2 ply, 36-45 tex, and for overedge stitching shall be a 2 ply, 31-35 tex, dyed black, conforming to A-A-50199. As an alternate, cotton thread dyed black, conforming to type I of A-A-52094 may be used.

3.3.8 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall be cotton, size Number 8, black in color, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

3.4 Labels

3.4.1 Combination label. Each skirt shall have a white, nonwoven, commercial type label, which shall be sewn into the waistband at center back. The inscription shall show "good" colorfastness to wet drycleaning, when tested in accordance with AATCC 132, and shall contain the information outlined below. Refer to Tables I and II for body measurements and height ranges.

Skirt, Woman’s Dress, Polyester/Wool

Size: 10 Misses Short (Example) Body: 28 Waist 38 Hip (example) Height: Less than 63-1/2 inches

55% polyester/45% wool

NAME OF MANUFACTURER

NAME OF CONTRACTOR

CONTRACT NO: SPO-100-0-0000 (Example) STOCK NUMBER: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example)

DRY CLEAN ONLY

TABLE I. Height ranges

Less than 63-1/2 inches 63-1/2 to 67 inches More than 67 inches

Short Regular Long

TABLE II. Body measurements

SIZE CODE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE

(INCHES)

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE

(INCHES)

4M

6J 6M 6W

8J 8M 8W

10J 10M 10W

12J

12M 12W

14J

14M 14W

16J

16M 16W

18J

18M 18W

20J

20M 20W

22J

22M 22W

29-1/2

3.4.2 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified.

The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5 Pressing. Press entire skirt with the proper pressing machine. Finish pressing by removing gloss and all pressing impressions.

3.6 Figure. The figure is furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the specification shall control.

3.7 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns, which provides for a 5/8 inch seam allowance for joining all seams, except a 3/8 inch seam allowance is provided for attaching the waistband. The government patterns may be used to create the contractor's working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures, however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The contractor may use his own commercial patterns provided they conform to the required design and finished measurements specified herein.

3.7.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts

MATERIAL NOMENCLATURE ABBREVIATIONS CUT PARTS

Basic material Front

Back Front pocket facing Waistband Placket

FRONT

BACK

FRT_PKT_FAC

WAISTBAND

PLACKET

Interlining material Waistband interlining Pocket stay interlining

WSTBAND_INT

PKT_STAY_INT

Lining material Front Back FRONT_LIN

BACK_LIN

Pocketing Pocket Bag PKT_BAG 2

3.8 Finished dimensions. The finished skirts shall conform to the measurements in Table IV.

Skirts shall be measured lying smooth and flat.

Table IV. Finished measurements, in inches.

A. Waist. Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across center of waistband with the slide fastener closed and the waistband buttoned.

B. Hip. Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge of skirt 7-1/2 inches down from bottom edge of waistband at side seam with the slide fastener closed and the waistband buttoned.

C. Length. Measurement shall be taken along side seam from waist from bottom of waistband to overedged bottom of skirt.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, and shall conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.2 Visual examination. Each skirt shall be examined for the defects listed below:

Size Waist A/

Hip B/ Length C/

JUNIOR MISSES WOMEN SHORT REGULAR LONG

4 25 - 39 - 28 30 33 6 26 38 40 42 28 30 33 8 27 39 41 43 28 30 33

10 28 40 42 44 28 30 33 12 29 ½ 41 ½ 43 ½ 45 ½ 28 30 33 14 31 43 45 47 28 30 33 16 32 ½ 44 ½ 46 ½ 48 ½ 28 30 33 18 34 ½ 46 ½ 48 ½ 50 ½ 28 30 33 20 36 ½ 48 ½ 50 ½ 52 ½ 28 30 33 22 38 ½ 50 ½ 52 ½ 54 ½ 28 30 33

TOL + 1/2 +1/2, -

1/4

+1/2, - 1/4

+1/2, -1/4 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material and Workmanship

Component part omitted, broken, misplaced, not attached as specified, or not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, puckered, or twisted; any part of skirt caught in any unrelated row of stitching

Twill line not consistent throughout.

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub.

Fusing: Any delamination, bubbling, strike-through, or resin transfer.

Waistband: Fullness, pleats, gathers or twists on waistband or top of skirt, lining exposed on outside, finished width not as specified, Back opening at waistband: length of back closure uneven at top

Back vent: not as specified, any bulging, puckering or distortion;

Lining not securely caught in fabric, not as specified, or positioned so as to cause a bulge. Lining twisted, tight, or short.

Darts or pleats missing, puckered, distorted, misplaced or positioned so as to cause a bulge.

Pocket: pocket out of alignment from waistband, notch exposed at pocket opening, facing not caught in topstitching at end of opening.

Bartack at ends of pocket openings omitted, misplaced, or insecure.

Any finished measurement not as specified

Permanent fold, pleat, or crease

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open

Loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge, stitch type not as specified, stitching omitted.

Buttonhole: Misplaced, omitted, uncut, not securely stitched, broken stitches, ragged edges, not type, or size as required.

Button: Not aligned with buttonhole causing gap, tightness, buldge, or twist.

Omitted, broken or defective, not type, or size required.

Slide fastener does not mesh properly, slider binds, catches, sticks or disengages from coils, fastener not type, style, or size specified. Stitching too close to teeth preventing freedom of slider movement.

Length of fly uneven at top.

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts

Thread or slide fastener color not as specified

Cleanness Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed or removed

Rancid odor

Pressing Pressing omitted, or not as specified, pressing impressions or glossy areas not removed, scorched area

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified, or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Packaging Any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

MILITARY INTERESTS

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard – CG