20R1690 MCTCU Draft MIL-PRF-MCTCU Feb 2020.pdf

MIL-PRF-MCTCU

DRAFT FEB 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

UNIFORM, TROPICAL, CAMOUFLAGE PATTERN;

MARINE CORPS

(BLOUSE AND TROUSERS)

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the Marine Corps Tropical Combat Uniform (MCTCU) blouse and trouser with embroidered Marine Corps insignia.

1.2 Classification. The MCTCU shall be available in the following types and sizes as specified (see 6.2)

1.2.1 Types.

Type 1 – Woodland MCTCU

Type 2 – Desert MCTCU

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes. The blouse and trousers shall be constructed in the following sizes (see 6.2).

SCHEDULE OF UNISEX SIZES – BLOUSE

Sizes X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

Length(s) XX- Short XX-Short

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

XX-Long

Comment, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Marine Corps Systems Command, Program

Manager Infantry Combat Equipment 2200 Lester Street Quantico, VA 22025.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited

SCHEDULE OF FEMALE SIZES – BLOUSE

Sizes 32 35 39

Length(s)

X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short

Regular

SCHEDULE OF UNISEX SIZES – TROUSERS

Sizes X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

SCHEDULE OF FEMALE SIZES – TROUSERS

Sizes 28 24 32

X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short

Regular

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4B - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Poly Core Cotton Covered

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-59826 – Thread, Nylon, Bonded

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-DTL-32439 Cloth, Duck, Textured Nylon

MIL-DTL-44411- Insect Repellent, Permethrin

DPSCM 4155.3 - Quality Systems Requirements.

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Ave.

Philadelphia, PA 19111-9054.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

Drawing Number Drawing Description

2-1-2525 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Coyote 476)

2-1-2526 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Green 474 with EGA symbol)

2-1-2527 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Black 477)

2-1-2528 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Khaki 476)

2-1-2529

Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Light Tan 479)

2-1-2530 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Urban Tan 478)

2-1-2531 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Light Coyote 481 with EGA symbol)

2-1-2532 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Highland 480)

2-1-2533

Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Coyote 476)

2-1-2534 Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Green 474)

2-1-2535 Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Khaki 476)

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Combat Capabilities Development Command Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019)

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISION

Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.ftc.gov)

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 40, part 798.4500 (Primary Eye Irritation)

Title 40, part 798.4100 (Dermal Sensitization)

Title 40, part 798.4470 (Primary Dermal Irritation)

(Applications for copies should be addressed to U.S. Government Printing Office, Superintendent of Documents, Mail

Stop: SSOP, Washington, DC 20402-9328, or this reference may be found on the Internet at www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html.)

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/ http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA):

FEDERAL INSECTICIDE, FUNGICIDE AND RODENTCIDE ACT (FIFRA)

FIFRA as amended by the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996 and the Pesticide Registration Improvement Act of

2003.

EPA Product Performance Test Guidelines

OPPTS 810.370 Insect Repellents for Human Skin and Outdoor Premises

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.epa.gov or from the U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, telephone (202)-512-0132)

EMBROIDERY PROGRAM FILE

Software for embroidery of Eagle Globe and Anchor (EGA).

The Eagle, Globe and Anchor (EGA) logo, including the EGA logo as it appears embedded in the fabric pattern. The

Government further has title to the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Design Patent No. D491,372 issued on

15 June 2004 for “Camouflage Pattern for Sheet Material and Uniforms” and the invention disclosed and claimed in United

States Patent No. 6,805,957 issued on 19 October 2004 for ‘Camouflage U.S. Marine Corps Utility Uniform: Pattern, Fabric, and Design.” The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above mentioned intellectual property.

Therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property. Doing so will be considered an infringement on the

Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract. (see para 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC EP 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC-8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC-15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC-16 - Colorfastness to Light

AATCC-20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated

AATCC-81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC-96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics Except Wool

AATCC-135 -Dimensional Change of Fabric After Home Laundering

AATCC-136 - Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

(Copies should be obtained from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, PO Box 12215, Research

Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM D737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM-D-1424 - Strength of Cloth, Tearing: Falling Pendulum Method

ASTM-D-1683 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM-D-3776 - Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric, Option C

ASTM-D-5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM-D-6193 - Stitches and Seams

ASTM-D-3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects http://www.epa.gov/

(Copies should be obtained from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West

Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959).

SDL ATLAS

Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Scales are available at http://www.sdatlas.com.)

SAE International

SAE-AMS-STD-595, Colors Used in Government Procurement

SAE AMS-STD-595/20090 Highland 480

SAE AMS-STD-595/20150 Coyote 476/498

SAE AMS-STD-595/20220 Light Coyote 481

SAE AMS-STD-595/20270 Urban Tan 478

SAE AMS-STD-595/23420 Khaki 475

SAE AMS-STD-595/23530 Light Tan 479

SAE AMS-STD-595/24112 Green 474

SAE AMS-STD-595/30430 Beige (Light Tan 492)

SAE AMS-STD-595/37029 Black 477

MISCELLANEOUS

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Applications for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY

10018-3308.)

CRC PRESS

Hayes, A. Wallace (editor) and Kruger, Claire L. (editor). Hayes’ Principles and Methods of Toxicology.

1989. 394-396.

(There are a number of ways through which this book may be obtained; online retailers, bookstores, public library)

JOHN WILEY & SONS INC

Marzulli, Francis and Maibach, Howard. “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans.” Advances in

Modern Toxicology: Dermatoxicology and Pharmacology, Volume 4. John Wiley & Sons Inc. 1977. 353-

372.

(Copies of this document are available from the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine, ATTN: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg., E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Ground, MD 21010-5422.)

(Color chip standards are available at www.sae.org)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3), in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2. Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3

3.2. Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample (see.6 X) for shade and appearance and shall be http://www.sae.org/ equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

The finished cloth is defined as the cloth after all treatments, including post-treatments.

3.2.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Material.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the blouse and trouser shall be lightweight nylon/cotton and available in woodland or desert. The cotton shall be carded. The nylon shall be bright with a high tenacity.

3.3.1.2 Yarn (basic material). The yarns for both the warp and fill directions shall be continuous filament nylon twisted with cotton singles yarn. The blend shall be 50 +/- 5 percent nylon with the remaining percentage cotton based on the dry weight of the desized cloth. The yarn ply twist factor shall be a 3.75 “S”. The cotton ply shall be one end of 166 dtex (149 denier) with a 3.75 “Z” twist factor. The nylon shall be one end of 156 dtex (140 denier) continuous filament or two ends of

78 dtex (70 denier) continuous filament. The cloth construction is plain weave.

3.3.1.3 Fiber and fabric identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. Each roll shall indicate cloth class and type. Testing shall be as specified in paragraph 4.4.6.

3.3.1.4 Physical requirements (basic material). The fabric shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in paragraph 4.4.6.

Table I. Physical Requirements - Basic Material

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber identification 3.3.1.2

Yarn 3.3.1.2

Weave 3.3.1.2

Yarn Count (minimum)

Warp:

Filling:

61 ends per inch

51 picks per inch

Weight 1 4.8 - 5.4 ounces per square yard

Breaking strength (minimum) 1

Warp: 170 pounds

Filling: 170 pounds

Tear strength (minimum) 1

Warp: 20 pounds

Filling: 20 pounds

Seam Strength (minimum) 110 pounds

Air Permeability (minimum) 1 50 cfm

Dimensional stability 1

Shrinkage (warp and fill) ≤ 3.5 %

(individual unit)

≤ 3.0 % (lot average)

Elongation (warp and fill) 0 0

Visual shade matching 1 3.3.4.1

Colorfastness (minimum)

Light (after 40 hours or 170 kilojoules) 4

Perspiration (acid and alkaline) 4

Laundering (after 4 cycles)

Color Change 4

Staining

All colors (except black 477) 3-4

Black 477 2-3

Crocking (dry and wet) 3-4

All colors (except black 477) 4.0

Black 477 1.5

Pattern Execution 3.3.5

Spectral reflectance 1 3.3.6 pH (water extract) 1 3.3.8

Labile sulfur content 1 3.3.3

Toxicity 1 3.3.9

Permethrin Treatment 3.3.7.1

Percent (%) Bite Protection 3.3.7.

Dry Out Time 3.3.12

MCTCU Weight 3.3.13

1/ required after permethrin treatment.

3.3.2 Color

3.3.2.1 Class 1.The cloth shall be dyed to a ground shade of Khaki 475. The camouflage pattern shall be printed to match

Woodland MARPAT Camouflage conforming to Drawings 2-1-2525; 2-1-2526, 2-1-2527, and 2-1-2528.The Woodland camouflage pattern shall be composed of four colors; Green 474 (SAE AMS-STD-595/24112), Khaki 475 (SAE-AMS-

STD-595/23420), Coyote 476 (SAE AMS-STD-595/20150) and Black 477 (SAE AMS-STD-595/37029).

3.3.2.2 Class 2.The cloth shall be dyed to a ground shade Light Tan 479. The camouflage pattern shall be printed to match

Desert MARPAT Camouflage conforming to Drawings 2-1-2529, 2-1-2530, 2-1-2531, and 2-1-2532. The Desert camouflage pattern shall be composed of four colors; Light Tan 470 (SAE AMS-STD-595/23530), Urban Tan 478 (SAE

AMS-STD-595/20270), Light Coyote 481(SAE AMS STD 595/20220) and Highland 480 (SAE AMS-STD-595/20090). .

3.3.2.4 Alternate Pocketing Material. The contractor may apply for a waiver to use printed seconds material as an alternate fabric for the MCTCU pocketing. Seconds must meet the physical requirements as specified in paragraph 3.3.1.5. Testing shall be as specified in paragraph 4.4.6.

3.3.2.5 Reinforcement Material. The reinforcement material for the elbow, seat and knee reinforcement shall be a untreated nylon plain weave cloth printed with the appropriate camouflage pattern (as specified in the solicitation), and shall conform to the Type IV, Class 1 requirements specified in MIL-DTL-32439 Cloth, Duck, Textured Nylon.

3.3.2.7 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified, the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than

40 yards. Each length shall be put up on a roll.

3.3.3 Labile sulfur (all types and classes). The use of dyes and compounds containing sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall be chosen and applied such that the dyed cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.6. When no standard sample is available, the dyed cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

3.3.3.1 Width (for government purposes only). Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the width of the cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches.

3.3.4. Color matching.

3.3.4.1. Visual matching. The color and appearance of the camouflage printed permethrin treated fabric shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 200 K with illumination of 100 20 foot candles K. See 4.4.6.2.1 for evaluation procedure and acceptance requirements.

3.3.5. Pattern execution (all types and classes). The camouflage pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors, and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the camouflage printed finished cloth shall be

35 1 ½ inches. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage. Skitteriness, feathering, haloing or trapping exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not available for pattern execution, a pattern drawing will be provided, and the pattern of the finished cloth shall match that of the drawing.

3.3.6 Spectral reflectance (all classes).

3.3.6.1 Class 1. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) for the colors specified in Table II as applicable, when tested as specified in

4.4.

TABLE II. Class 1 Spectral reflectance requirements

Reflectance values (percent)

Wavelengths Black 477 Coyote 476 & Khaki 475 Green 474

Nanometers Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

600 -- 10 8 18 3 10

620 -- 10 8 18 3 10

640 -- 10 8 18 3 9

660 -- 10 8 18 3 12

680 -- 10 10 22 3 14

700 -- 10 18 33 5 18

720 -- 10 22 45 7 20

740 -- 10 30 55 12 28

760 -- 10 35 65 18 36

780 -- 10 40 75 26 44

800 -- 10 45 80 34 52

820 -- 10 50 86 42 60

840 -- 10 55 88 53 68

860 -- 10 60 90 56 74

3.3.6.2 Class 2. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, 700 to 860 nanometers (nm) for the colors specified in Table IV, when tested as specified in 4.4.6.1.

TABLE III. Class 2 Spectral reflectance requirements

Reflectance values (percent)

Wavelengths Lt. Tan 479 Lt. Coyote 481 & Highland

Urban Tan 478

Nanometers Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

700 38 53 19 41 25 44

720 38 54 20 41 25 45

740 39 55 20 42 25 46

760 40 56 21 42 26 47

780 41 57 21 42 27 48

800 43 58 22 43 28 50

820 45 59 23 45 30 52

840 48 62 24 46 33 55

860 50 65 25 48 36 58

3.3.7 Insect Bite Protection. The finished garments with bite protection treatment shall be strictly limited to the level specified in 3.3.7.1 and provide the minimum insect bite protection specified in 3.3.7.2.

The blouse and trouser shall be treated with an insect bite protection finish. Content levels of finish are strictly limited to the levels specified in 3.3.7.1 and shall provide the minimum bite protection specified in 3.3.7.2.

3.3.7.1 Permethrin Treatment. Insect repellent treatment. The insect repellent treatment process and blouses will comply with Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) as amended. Insect repellent treatment concentration on the blouses and trousers shall comply with EPA Toxological Category IV. The garments shall have an EPA registered (see

6.10) insect protection treatment. The garments shall be labeled in accordance with 3.4.2.6.4. The insect repellent treatment finish shall be uniformly applied across the fabric or garments at a target level as specified in the EPA registered label and strictly controlled to fall within the minimum to maximum levels specified in table IX. The insect repellent treatment shall be durable to repeated laundering to provide the minimum insect repellent levels after 20 launderings specified in Table VIII. The insect repellent level will be measured as specified in paragraph 4.4.6. The insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the cloth or garment. The insect repellent treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.3.7.3 which shall use permethrin in accordance with Type II specified in MIL-DTL-44411 except that the application for Type II specified in paragraph 3.6 of

MIL-DTL-44411 shall also be applicable to finished garment.

TABLE IX. Insect repellent treatment level requirements.

Condition AI target level

(w/w %)

AI concentration level

Minimum Maximum

Initial of 0.52% wt/wt

0.78 mg/cm2 0.122 mg/cm2

After 20 laundering cycles

0.025 mg/cm2 --

3.3.7.2 Bite protection. Finished insect repellent treated blouses shall provide bite protection specified in Table X when assessed by the biting protection testing specified in Government approval is required initially, and any time there is a change in the permethrin treatment formulation or processing conditions (see 4.4.6.3.1).

TABLE X. Bite protection requirements.

Condition % Mosquito bite protection

Initial ≥ 96%

After 20 launderings

≥ 96%

After 50 launderings

≥ 90%

3.3.8 pH (all types and classes). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

3.3.9 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall show no toxicity nor present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection

Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used. When specified (see Error! Reference source not found.), the contractor shall furnish information, which certifies that the finished product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provide sufficient toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact.

3.3.9.1 Toxicity documents. As specified (see Error! Reference source not found.), all finishes/chemicals used to process the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

3.3.10 Ground shade/printed seconds/mill seconds. Ground shade cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric.

Printed seconds shall be defined as cloth that has been rejected only for defects pertaining to color, infrared reflectance, or camouflage print patterns, which are cited in the specified basic material requirements. Mill seconds shall be cloth that has been rejected for visual defects only, and dyed to match ground shade (see 3.5.3). Mill seconds finished firsts may contain slubs and knots (see 4.4.7 and FED-STD-4B for all other fabric defects which constitute seconds).

3.3.11 Disposal of ground shade/printed seconds/mill seconds/rejected garments. All scraps, printed seconds and mill seconds (see 6) shall be disposed of as specified in the contract (see 6.2). Contractors shall be prepared to certify as to the method and execution of the destruction of all scraps, seconds and extra material containing the aforementioned intellectual property/trademarks.

3.3.12 Dry out time. The MCTCU blouse shall dry out in no more than two hours and the MCTCU trouser shall dry out in no more than five hours.

3.3.13 MCTCU Weight. The MCTCU blouse and trouser (med-regular size) shall weigh no more than 2 lbs. 9 ounces.

3.3.14 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this document, be uniform, and be free from defects specified in 4.4 and those defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function. Defects shall not exceed the established Acceptable Quality Levels (AQLs) (see Error! Reference source not found.) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

3.4 Design and construction.

3.4.1 Design.

The United States Marine Corps Tropical Combat Uniform (MCTCU) blouse shall conform to the design details of 3.4.1.1 and as shown in figures 1 through 20, and the MCTCU trouser shall conform to the design details of 3.4.1.2 and as shown in figures 1 through 20. The blouse and trousers are treated with insect bite protection (permethrin).

3.4.1.1 Blouse design.

Blouse design feature Detail

Front closure Single breasted with a concealed front button closure

Collar Band collar with curved collar ends

Long sleeves Adjustable wrist tabs (1button/ 3 buttonholes)

One piece, single layer, external elbow reinforcement patch

Chest pockets (right and left) Angled (65 degree) patch pocket on each chest

Rectangular pocket flap with hook and loop tape closure

Left chest pocket (as worn) Embroidered eagle, glove and anchor (EGA), centered

Pen opening centered in flap and separate pen pocket inside chest pocket

Upper sleeve pockets (right and left) Side and bottom bellows

Drainage eyelet in bottom bellow (near front of pocket)

Tapered flap with concealed two button closure

Waist Tapered

Bottom Straight cut

Fusible interfacing Collar and all pocket flaps

3.4.1.2 Trouser design.

Trouser design feature Detail

Waist Grown on (standard) or sewn-on (alternate) waistband

Partially elasticized waistband providing 4 inches of waist expansion

(elasticized from front pocket bearer, across outseam, and onto back of trouseers

Belt loops (7)

Fly Concealed button and buttonhole (4) fly closure

Front pleat Single stitched, centered on each front panel

Side pockets (2) Hanging

Hip pockets (2) Welt opening

Fused flap with concealed button closure

Cargo pockets (2) Pleated (3) with a bottom bellow with a drainage eyelet at rear of pocket

Elasticized upper pocket edge

Fused flap closed with a bartack at forward corner and concealed button closure at rear corner

Crotch gusset Sewn in

Reinforcement patches (3) Single layer external patch at the seat and knees

Leg bottom Hemmed

Fusible interfacing Hip and cargo pocket flaps

3.4.1.3 Figures. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and figures 1 through 20, the written specification shall govern.

3.4.2 Components.

3.4.2.1 Interfacing. The blouse collar and all pocket flaps shall be interlined. The fusible interfacing shall have the same life expectancy as the garment. Pocket flaps with attached interfacing shall meet an initial directional bond strength of 32 ounces minimum per inch and 24 ounces minimum per inch after 3 launderings when tested as specified in 4.4.1. There shall be no delamination, bubbling or strike-through before and after three launderings.

3.4.2.2 Thread. Thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with a minimum breaking strength of 3.2 lb. when tested as specified in 4.4.2. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31 to 35) with a minimum breaking strength of 2.6 pounds may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. Thread shall conform to A-A-

50199.

3.4.2.2.1 Alternate Seam Thread. Alternate seams shall be stitched using the alternate seam thread combination. The needle thread for the alternate seams shall be 100% nylon thread, Class B, non-wicking, Type II, B/50 texconforming to A-

A-59826. The bobbin (looper) thread for the alternate seams shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with a minimum break strength of 3.2 lbs. conforming to A-A-50199.

3.4.2.2.2 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached using a thread conforming to A-A-59826, Thread, Nylon, Bonded, Type II, Class A, Size B when tested as specified in 4.4.3. and 4.4.4.3

3.4.2.3 Gimp. Thread for reinforcement of buttonholes shall be commercial size Ticket No. 8 (Tex size 210) with a minimum breaking strength of 6.5 lbs. when tested as specified in 4.4.2. This size and type of gimp provides durability and shape retention to the eyelet and buttonhole. Thread shall conform to A-A-50198.

3.4.2.4 Thread colorfastness and color. All thread shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.3. The thread color shall be Camouflage Green 483 (approximating color chip 34094 of SAE-

AMS-STD-595) for Type I and Khaki P-1 (C.A.66019 or approximating color chip 30277 of SAE-AMS-STD-595) for

Type II.

3.4.2.5 Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop. The hook and loop fastener tapes for the chest pocket closure shall be 1 inch wide, CG 483 (approximating color chip 34094 FED-STD-595) for Type I and Khaki P-1 C.A.66019 (or approximating color chip 30277 of SAE-AMS-STD-595) for Type II and shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. The hook tape shall be

1 + 1/16 inches in length and the loop tape shall be 1 + 1/16 inches in length. Cut edges shall be finished so that they do not ravel for the life of the garment.

3.4.2.6 Elastic Webbing. The elastic webbing for the trouser waistband and cargo pocket shall be 1 inch wide and conform to equal to or better performance of Type II, class 1 of MIL-W-5664 or QST style 150-43171RA, 1 ½ 1/16 inches or equal ( see Table XIII footnote 1) . Elastic ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. When 1-½ inch elastic is used, the manufacturer will adjust patterns to accommodate the wider elastic without altering finished dimensions created by GFM patterns and stitching. The color shall be natural for either type, or Camouflage Green 483 or black for Type I, or tan for type II. The elastic for the waistband shall be cut to the length needed to achieve both the trouser 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements (for each size) as specified in paragraph 4.4.9, Tables XI and the elongation force specified below. The elastic in the cargo pocket opening shall extend the full width to achieve a 6 ¾ to 7 ½ inches relaxed opening. The elastic will retreat to its relaxed opening position when the hand is removed. The encased elastic webbing for the cargo pocket shall lie flat in the relaxed state and not distort the trouser leg. The cargo pocket opening shall retain its elongation/recovery characteristic for the life of the garment. The finished elasticized waistband and cargo pocket features shall conform to the following requirements:

Feature Elongation (in.) +/- 1/16” Force (lbs.) Minimum to Maximum Test Method

Cargo Pocket 1 ½ 2.5 to 3.5 See 4.4.6.4

Waistband ¾ 0.5 to 1.5 See 4.4.6.4

Waistband 1 ½ 1.5 to 4.0 See 4.4.6.4

3.4.2.7 Nylon Reinforcement. The nylon reinforcement for the elbow, knee, and seat patches shall conform to MIL-DTL-

32439, Type IV, class 1, style E or F, woodland or desert MARPAT as appropriate. Sewn edges must not unravel and shall last the life of the garment.

3.4.3 Labels.

3.4.3.1 Blouse labels. The blouse shall contain two permanent labels as specified below. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.4.3.1.1. Marine Corps Exclusive Label. Each blouse shall have a woven exclusive label, cut single, fused edge, Minnewawa style number LR5398 (A-C) or equal. The information on the label includes the abbreviated size – length designation (see paragraph 6.6 for standardized abbreviation) on the top, followed by “Made Expressly for” with the

USMC emblem woven in the center of the label. Below the emblem, the contractor’s name shall appear in gold letters.

The exclusive label shall be placed at center back of the collar and sewn in collar setting seam and stitched on all four sides.

As an alternative, the size-length designation can be on a separate label.

The separate size-length designation label shall be 1 inch in width by 1 inch in height. It shall be sewn centered to the bottom of USMC exclusive label with a 1/4 inch seam allowance as shown in Figure 18. The lettering shall be 18 point

Arial Font and the label color shall be according to fabric class with black numbers and letters. Both methods shall include the words "Made Expressly for" with the USMC emblem woven in the center of the label. Below the emblem, the contractor's name shall appear in gold letters. The exclusive label shall be placed at the center back of collar and sewn in collar setting seam and stitched on all four sides.

3.4.4.1. Blouse Combination Label. A separate combination label (see 6.7 for example) shall contain size, body measurements, identification, and care information as specified below.

The size and body measurement in the top portion of the combination label shall contain following information:

X-Small-X-Short (example of Size-Length)

Chest: Up to 33 in. (example)

Height: 59-63 in. (example)

8415-00-000-0000 (example of NSN)

Information for each size is specified in the “Size and Body Measurements” table shown in paragraph 3.4.3.2.2. The label colors shall be Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131 for Type I and Khaki, Cable No. 70188 for Type II. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform. The combination label shall be located on the backside of the right chest pocket (as worn) (see Figure 3). Label shall be of a size that is no larger than the pocket behind which it is attached. The label shall be attached by stitching on all four sides with no indication of label application showing on the outside of the blouse.

Size: The size – length designation (without abbreviation), body measurements, and stock number shall be included on the combination label. Information for each size is specified in the “Size and Body Measurements”

Table, paragraph 3.4.4, and shall be centered at the top of the label.

Identification: List one corresponding to blouse type ordered and delivered:

Blouse, Woodland MARPAT TM (typed as trademark symbol) Camouflage, MCTCU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

OR

Blouse, Desert MARPAT TM (typed as trademark symbol) Camouflage, MCTCU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

Contract Information:

Contract Number:

Contractor Name:

Care Information:

1. Washing. Machine wash using Permanent Press Cycle or hand wash using mild detergent that does NOT contain optical brighteners. Rinse completely.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

2. Drying: Tumble dry and remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on hanger.

3. Ironing: Light ironing if needed.

DO NOT STARCH or COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

3.4.4.3. Blouse Combination Insect Protection and Brand Identification Label. The blouse insect protection label and the blouse insect protection brand label shall be combined into a single label. The combination label shall include both permanent insect protection and brand labeling information; and shall comply with the approved EPA registration (See

6.12). The combination label shall be stitched on all four sides and attached to the underside of the left chest pocket as worn with the writing facing out as worn, parallel to the combination label. Labeling information, characteristics and location of labels are subject to Government approval prior to production. See paragraph 3.4.3.4 for additional EPA hang tag information requirement.

3.4.4.4. Insect Protection Brand Label Each blouse shall contain brand identification in accordance with the treatment’s

EPA registration. Brand identification may be included in an expanded permanent insect protection label or as a separate brand label stitched directly above the insect protection label which shall not be visible on the outside of the garment. The contractors labeling is subject to Government approval prior to production.

3.441.5 Trouser Labels. The trousers shall contain two permanent labels as specified below. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.4.4..6. Trouser Size label. The size label shall contain the following information:

X-Small-X-Short (example of Size-Length)

Waist: Up to 27 in (example)

Inseam: Up to 26 1/2 in (example)

8415-00-000-0000 (example of NSN)

Refer to “Size and Body Measurements”, 3.4.4, for the correlation between size and Body measurements (Waist and inseam). Size label shall be positioned on inside center back, left of the seat seam and catch in the waistband stitching.

Only one stock number associated with Type I or Type II trouser as ordered on the contract will be provided on the label.

3.4.4.7. Trouser Combination identification/care label: This label is positioned on right hip pocket (as worn – see figure 11) so that on the finished trousers the label shall face the wearer. The combination label shall be no larger than the pocket to which it is attached. The label shall be sewn on all four sides. The label colors shall be Medium Green, Cable No. 70034, 70130, or 70131 for Type I and Khaki, Cable No. 70188 for Type II. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points.

3.4.4.8. Trouser Combination Insect Protection and Brand Identification Label. The trouser insect protection label and the trouser insect protection brand label shall be combined into a single label. The combination label shall include both permanent insect protection and brand labeling information and shall comply with the approved EPA registration (See

6.12). The combination label shall be stitched on all four sides and attached to the underside of the left hip pocket with the writing facing out as worn, parallel to the combination label. Labeling information, characteristics and location of labels are subject to Government approval prior to production. See paragraph 3.4.3.4 for additional EPA hang tag information requirement.

3.4.4.9. Insect Protection Brand Label. Finished trousers shall contain brand identification in accordance with the treatment’s EPA registration. Brand identification may be include in an expanded permanent insect protection label (item 3 above) or as a separate label stitched directly above the insect protection label which shall not be visible on the outside of the garment. The contractors labeling is subject to Government approval prior to production.

3.4.4.2.1 Trouser Identification/Care Label. The trouser combination identification/care label shall be the same as the blouse size/identification/care label specified in 3.4.3.1 EXCEPT that the size and size prediction measurements are not provided (duplicates the trouser size label) and the identification shall correspond to the trouser type ordered and delivered as outlined below (see 6.8).

Trouser, Woodland MARPAT TM (typed as trademark symbol) Camouflage, MCTCU

50% Cotton/50% Nylon

OR

Trouser, Desert MARPAT TM (typed as trademark symbol) Camouflage, MCTCU 50% Cotton/50% Nylon.

3.4.4.3.2 Insect Protection Hang Tag Label (Blouse and Trouser) RS Note: If this applies to both blouse and trouser, renumber as 3.4.3.3. Each class 3 and class 4 garment shall have an individual paper tag attached to the garment. The tag shall provide additional insect protection information as required by EPA registration and is subject to Government approval (See 6.12).

3.4.4 Buttons. The buttons shall be dull finish, 4-hole, 30 ligne, and shall be in accordance with the following configuration.

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Olive Green for type I and Tan (Desert Tan 380) for type II. The buttons shall be attached to the blouse with a “C” stitch pattern. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 pounds; shall not exhibit chalking and button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 lb. (min.) when attached to the blouse, when tested as specified in 4.4.1

3.5. Embroidery.

The thread used for embroidery shall be a bright continuous filament polyester and shall show colorfastness to light, laundering, and wet-dry cleaning of not less than grade “4” when tested as specified in 4.4.3. The embroidery thread used for the type I Woodland blouse shall approximate SAE-AMS-STD-595, Colors Used in Government Procurement chip No.

37038 (Black). The embroidery thread used for the type II Desert blouse shall approximate SAE-AMS-STD-595, Colors

Used in Government Procurement chip No. 20070 (Brown).

3.5.1 Embroidery Program File. The Government shall furnish a .pst file an Embroidery Program File to manufacture the

Eagle Globe and Anchor (EGA) embroidery design as specified in 3.5.1.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Government patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for the proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns. Patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for single needle seams and ½ inch for double needle seams. The list of pattern parts and computer nomenclature in 3.6.1 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The contractor shall prepare a set of working patterns by modifying the Government patterns to accommodate for the shrinkage of the garment during the permethrin application process. The working patterns shall be used to cut and manufacture garments that meet dimensional requirements of 4.4.9. Prior to cutting, the contractor shall submit the working pattern file to the Government

(see 6.2) for review. Additional notching is permitted if needed to facilitate manufacture. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or governed by the Government pattern.

3.6.1 List of blouse pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the number of parts specified in table V. The pattern parts list in Table V is provided for first quality fabrics. One set of blouse patterns are provided: unisex sizing. Unisex size pattern parts are indicated by the prefix “MCTCUB”.

TABLE V. List of blouse pattern parts

Material Piece Name Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic Material FRONT MCTCUB-FRONT 2

BACK MCTCUB –BACK 1

LEFT FRONT FLY MCTCUB -LFT FRNT FLY 1

TOP SLEEVE MCTCUB -TOP SLEEVE 2

UNDER SLEEVE MCTCUB -UNDER

SLEEVE

COLLAR MCTCUB –COLLAR 2

SLEEVE POCKET MCTCUB -SLEEVE

POCKET

SLEEVE POCKET FLAP TAB MCTCUB -SLV PKT FL TB 2

BREAST POCKET MCTCUB -BREAST

POCKET

BREAST POCKET FLAP MCTCUB -BRST PCKT

FLP

CUFF MCTCUB –CUFF 2

CUFF TAB MCTCUB -CUFF TAB 2

Reinforcement Material ELBOW PATCH MCTCUB -ELBOW PATCH 2

Fusible TOP COLLAR FUSIBLE MCTCUB -TOP COLLR

FUS

SLEEVE POCKET FLAP

FUSIBLE

MCTCUB -SLV PK FL FS

BREAST POCKET FLAP

FUSIBLE

MCTCUB -BRS PKT FL FS

Template COLLAR TEMPLATE MCTCUB -COLLAR

TEMPL

3.6.2 List of trouser pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the number of parts specified in table VI. The pattern list in Table VI is provided for first quality fabrics. One set of trouser patterns are provided: unisex sizing. Unisex size pattern parts are indicated by the prefix “MCTCUB”.

TABLE VI. List of trouser pattern parts

Material Piece Name Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic Material BACK MCTCUT-BACK 2

FRONT MCTCUT –FRONT 2

LEFT FLY MCTCUT -LEFT FLY 3

RIGHT FLY LINING MCTCUT-RGHT FLY LIN 1

HIP POCKET MCTCUT-HIP POCKET 2

HIP POCKET FACING MCTCUT-HIP POCKT

FAC

HIP POCKET BEARER MCTCUT-HIP PCKT

BEAR

HIP POCKET FLAP TAB MCTCUT-HIP PKT FL TB 2

SIDE HANGING POCKET MCTCUT-SID HANG

PCKT

SIDE HANG POCKET BEARER MCTCUT-SD HNG PKT

BR

SIDE HANGING POCKET FACING MCTCUT-SID HNG PK

FC

CARGO POCKET MCTCUT-CARGO

POCKET

CARGO POCKET FACING MCTCUT-CARG PCKT

FAC

CARGO POCKET FLAP TAB MCTCUT-CARG PKT

FLTB

GUSSET MCTCUT-GUSSET 1

WAISTBAND MCTCUT-WAISTBAND 2

BACK ALTERNATE MCTCUT-BACK ALT 2

FRONT ALTERNATE MCTCUT-FRONT ALT 2

BUTTONHOLE FLY ALTERNATE MCTCUT-BTNHL FLY

ALT

HIP POCKET ALTERNATE MCTCUT-HIP POCKT

ALT

LEFT FLY LINING ALTERNATE MCTCUT-LFT FLY LN

AL

RIGHT FLY LINING ALTERNATE MCTCUT-RGT FLY LN

AL

SIDE HANGING POCKET BEARER

ALTERNATE

MCTCUT-SD HG PK BR

A

SIDE HANGING POCKET FACING

ALTERNATE

MCTCUT-SD HG PK FC A 2

SIDE HANGING POCKET ALTERNATE MCTCUT-SD HG PKT

ALT

Reinforcement

Material

KNEE PATCH MCTCUT-KNEE PATCH 2

SEAT PATCH MCTCUT-SEAT PATCH 2

Fusible CARGO POKET FLAP TAB FUSIBLE MCTCUT-CG PK FLTB FS 2

HIP POCKET FLAP FUSIBLE MCTCUT-HIP PKT FL FS 2

1/ Parts cut from ends and printed seconds are allowable on lining and pocket bags not visible on finished garment.

3.6.3. Workmanship and Construction. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements and figures provided and the finished dimensions cited (3.7.1) to maintain end item configuration.

3.6.4 Construction requirements (all garments).

Construction feature Requirement

1. Thread

a. Thread type and size (1) 3.3.2.2- 3.3.2.4

b. Alternate thread (1) The following seams shall be sewn with the alternate B/50 thread combination as specified in paragraph 3.4.2.2.1: Trouser Inseams, Seat Seams, Armholes, Blouse Side Seams, Blouse Hem, Seat patch, Knee Patch, Elbow Patch and Blouse

Hem.

b. Thread tension (1) Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching.

c. Thread shade on outside of garment

(1) Consistent thread shade on the outside of the garment. Multiple shades of thread on the outside of the garment are not allowed.

d. Thread breaks (all stitch types)

(1) Secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/4 inch or ½” overlap

(2) If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type.

e. Thread ends (1) Trimmed to ¼ inch or less.

f. Loose threads (1) All removed.

2. Stitches and Seams

a. Stitch and seam types (1) In accordance with ASTM D6193.

(2) In accordance with Table VII.

b. Appearance (1) Consistent, exhibiting a uniform appearance.

c. Underside of seams (Inside the garment)

(1) Flat, with no protruding seam allowances or raw edges which could cause irritation, discomfort, or poor appearance.

d. Stitches per inch (1) All outside visible stitching: 10 – 14 stitches per inch.

(2) Overedging or prehemming: 6 – 10 stitches per inch.

e. 401 or 101 stitch type (1) Loops of the chain finish on the inside of the garment.

f. Overedging (1) Knife set to trim the loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material.

g. Seams and seam allowances (1) Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result.

h. Raw edges (1) Raw edges on the outside of the garment are not allowed.

(2) Raw edges on the inside along the double needle seams are not allowed.

(3) Raw edges greater than 1/8 inch on the inside of the garment are not allowed.

(4) Raw edges may be turned-in, turned-under, or serged to prevent raveling.

i. Beginning and ending of seams

(1) Start and finish evenly.

j. Joined components (2) Lie smooth and flat.

k. Ends of seams and stitching

– 301 stitch type

(1) If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than ¼ inch.

(2) If the end of a continuous line of stitching (except label): overlapped not less than ½ inch.

(3) If label stitching: overlapped not less than 3 stitches.

l. Skipped stitches (301 or 401) (1) Repaired by using 301 stitch type.

m. Edge, raise, or topstitching (1) Positioned ¹⁄16 inch from the edge

3. Fusible interfacings

(1) Applied in accordance with the supplier’s recommendation for time, temperature, and pressure

TABLE VII. Seam types.

Seam Placement

Seam

Type

Gage

Stitch

Type

1. Sleeve seams, shoulder seams, side seams, outseams, seat seam and inseams LSc-2 3/16 to 9/32 inch gage or 401

2. Waistband

LSk-2 1½ inch 301 or 401

3. Alternate Waistband - metered elastic

LSbc-4 1/ 1/

4. Top stitching for pocket flaps, collar, cuff tab, flies, tabs, and front edges.

OSf-1

(a) 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge

(b) uniform gage throughout the garment

5. Closing of side hanging and hip pockets leaving ½” chain or if clipped shall be shall be secured with second row of stitching, Inside of cargo pockets shall be serged

SSe-2 and

OSf-1

Or SSa-2

3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges

301 or

515,516, or

6. Hip pocket opening SSbe-2 Pad opening welt width: 1 +/- 1/8 in. 301

7. Attachment of patch pockets and attachment of side and hip pocket bearers and facings

LSd-1 one row 1/16 to 1/8 inch apart from finished edge of blouse placket

8. Elasticized cargo pocket opening ??

(2) Centered on the basic material component part

4. Bartacks

(1) All bartacks (except for waistband, fly, crotch intersection, and cargo pocket elastic) shall be positioned and sized in accordance with Table VIII. (Also, See figures for location of bartacks).Bartacks shall be placed at high stress points the garment

(2) All bartacks shall have a + 1/16 inch size tolerance.

(3) Pocket flaps shall be bartacked at top right and left corners with 3/8” in length and 20 to 27 stitches per bartack.

(4) The crotch intersection shall be reinforced with a parallel 5/8” bartack with approximately 42 to 46 stitches with the B-50 thread combination.

(5) The fly opening bartack shall be stitched with the alternate B/50 thread combination as specified in paragraph 3.4.2.2.1

(6) Bartacks are required at the specified reinforcement points (see figures 1-14) and centered on belt loop for attachment.

(7) Pocket flaps shall be bartacked at top right and left corners with 3/8” in length and 20 to 27 stitches per bartack

5. Buttons

(1) Securely fastened to the garment by locking stitches

(2) Minimum of 16 stitches per button

(3) When attached to the blouse or slack, button and thread withstands a 40 lb.

(minimum) pull tested, when tested as specified in xxx.

5. Pocket drainage eyelets

(1) Minimum of 19 stitches each.

(2) Purling on the outside.

(3) Material edges shall be securely caught in the eyelet stitching.

9. Alternate elasticized cargo pocket opening SSt-4

(a) two rows of double needle stitching, 1/4 inch gauge, at either edge of the elastic.

(b) each row of stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch from either edge of elastic.

10. Pocket flap attachment – double needle flap stitching 2/ LSd-2 two rows 3/16 to ¼ inch apart 301

11. Alternate pocket flap attachment

(except chest pockets) SSa-2

(a) Single needle stitched, turned, and topstitched 3/16” to ¼” with backtacking at each end

(b) top flap edge, raw or overedged, not visible when flap is raised

12. Belt loop construction Efh-1 5/16 to 3/8 inch from edges 406

13. Attachment of elbow, seat and knee patches LSd-2 two rows 3/16 to 1/4 inch apart 301

14. Label attachment LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

15. All hems:

Blouse & trouser legs

Sleeves

EFb-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301

Table VIII. Bartacks.

Size

(Inches)

Stitches/ bartack

Location

BLOUSE

3/8 20-27 End of each sleeve inseam at cuff edge

3/8 20-27 Left front edge of front fly in accordance with marks on pattern

3/8 20-27 Top corners of chest and sleeve pockets

3/8 20-27 Left chest pocket flap, each side of pen opening

3/8 20-27 Top corners of sleeve pocket and chest pocket flaps

3/8 20-27 Vertically at each end of cuff tab along vertical stitching 1/

TROUSER

5/8…