11-PD-20-026B AF SKIRT WOMANS.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD-20-026B

8 August 2025

SUPERSEDING

11-PD-20-026A

19 May 2025

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRT, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/ROU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

AFLCMC/ROU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to:

AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

AMSC N/A

FSC 8410

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the woman’s service dress skirt to be worn by United States Air Force (USAF) personnel.

1.2 Classification. The skirt is of the following types and classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The types of skirt are as follows:

Type I – Straight Type II – Curvy

1.2.2 Classes. The classes of the skirt are as follows:

Class 1 – 55 percent polyester, 45 percent wool serge, Air Force Shade Blue 1620 Class 2 – 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1625

1.3 Schedule of lengths and sizes. The skirt is furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Schedule of lengths and sizes.

Fit type Length Size

Straight Short 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Regular 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Long 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Curvy Short 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Regular 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Long 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59994 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE (DoD) SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-823 Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-STD-1609 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Women’s Skirts

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

PD WNUV 13-02 Cloth, Texturized, Woven, Twill, Polyester, Air Force Blue 1625 GL-PD-19011 Cloth, Twill, Polyester and Polyester Blend

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM8 Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM20 Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC TM20A Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM61

AATCC TM132

Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM143 Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Textile Products after Laundering

AATCC TM150 Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering

AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale (Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY/AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/

(ASQ/ANSI)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling)

Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/

D3776M

Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspection.

3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to quality conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The skirt shall have two (2) side seams and one (1) center back seam with kick pleat, two (2) front quarter top pockets, one (1) on each side, three (3)-piece curved waistband joined at side seams with interior matching facings, and six (6) belt loops. Center back closure shall consist of a zipper, buttons, and buttonholes lapped left over right, and has additional seam allowance at center back seam for alterations. Skirt shall be fully lined and unhemmed.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 7 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows the front view of the skirt. Figure 2 shows the back view of the skirt. Figure 3 shows the inside view of the skirt. Figure 4 shows the interior view of waistband. Figure 5 shows the combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label placement. Figure 6 shows construction of the pockets. Figure 7 shows a visual of how to measure the skirt. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material.

3.5.1.1 Basic material Class 1 skirt. The basic material for the Class 1 skirt shall be a blend of 55 percent polyester and 45 percent wool serge cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1620, and shall conform to requirements specified in MIL-DTL-823, Type III, Class 4.

3.5.1.2 Basic material Class 2 skirt. The basic material for the Class 2 skirt shall be 100 percent polyester twill, Air Force Shade Blue 1625, and shall conform to the requirements specified in PD WNUV 13-02.

3.5.2 Lining. The material for the skirt lining shall be in accordance with A-A-52106, Class 4. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.3 Pocketing. The material for the skirt pocketing shall be 100 percent polyester conforming to GL-PD 19011, Class 4. Key pocketing requirements are listed in Table I and testing is listed in Table VIII.

TABLE I. List of key requirements for pocketing.

Characteristic Requirement

Color Black Fabric weight (oz./sq.yd.) (2.5-3.0) Yarns per inch

Warp (136-144) Filling (70-78)

Yarns size (denier) Warp 1/75/72 Filling 1/100/36

Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) (min) 3.0

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Interlining. The interlining for the waistband and pocket facings of the skirt shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, Style B. The color shall be black or charcoal.

3.6.2 Zipper. The zipper shall be non-separating with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil, and a bottom stop conforming to A- A-55634, Type I, Style 4 or 5. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and zipper pull shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed tape shall show a minumum 3.5 colorfastness rating after three (3) drycleanings and five (5) launderings when evaluated using AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2 and tested in Table VIII. A certificate of compliance shall be accepted (see 4.10).

3.6.3 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to A-A-59994, Type I, Class 1, Style 20 or 21, 24 ligne and shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6.4 Thread. The cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall conform to A-A-50199 with Tex 36-45. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6.4.1 Thread (gimp) for reinforcement buttonholes. The thread (gimp) for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198 with soft finish and Tex 210, or with glazed finish and Tex 180 or 210. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6.5 Polyester hem tape. The tape shall be 1/2 inch in width and a plain woven taffeta with polyester twisted filament yarn (Partially Oriented Yarn) in the warp and weft. The tape weight shall be 3.68 ounces per 100 yards (±5.0 percent). The yarn size shall be 70 denier in the warp and filling. The tape has 55 ends (±3 ends) and 46 picks (±3 picks) per inch. The shade shall be a good match to the basic material. The tape shall have good colorfastness to crocking and be tested and verified in accordance with Table VIII. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.10).

3.6.6 Labels. Each skirt shall have a combination label (size, identification, care instruction) and barcode label or certification label.

3.6.6.1 Combination of size, identification, and care instruction label (Class 1 only). The combination of the size, identification and care instruction label for the skirt shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14, or be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose (see Figure 5). The combination label shall be sewn on wear’s back left (as worn) lining (see Table V, Operation 14).

The contents of the combination of size, identification, and care instruction label shall be as follows for the Class 1 skirt:

10 CURVY REGULAR OR 10 STRAIGHT REGULAR

NSN #:

SKIRT, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS, AIR FORCE BLUE 1620

(CONTRACTOR NUMBER)

(CONTRACTOR NAME)

SHELL: 55% POLYESTER/45% WOOL

LINING: 100% POLYESTER

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Professional Dry Clean Only Low Moisture Steam Press

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

MADE IN THE USA

3.6.6.2 Barcode label (Class 1 only). At a minimum, and unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each Class 1 skirt shall have a Universal Product Code (UPC) label in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075, Type VIII, Class 17. The UPC barcode shall be completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.6.6.3 Certification label (Class 2 only). The certification label for the Class 2 skirt shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, and include item description, contractor name, fabric content, and the Department of the Air Force (DAF) certification information or shall be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose and labeled in accordance with the operating procedures under the DAF Optional Uniform Certification Procedures document. The placement of the certification label shall be sewn on wear’s back left (as worn) lining (see Table V, Operation 14).

The contents of the certification label for the Class 2 skirt shall be as follows:

SKIRT, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS, AIR FORCE BLUE 1625

SIZE: CURVY OR STRAIGHT 10CR or 10SR (example)

SHELL: 100% POLYESTER

LINING: 100% POLYESTER

(CONTRACTOR NAME)

DAF CERTIFICATION NO. __________. A SAMPLE OF THIS ITEM

HAS BEEN INSPECTED AND MEETS OR EXCEEDS THE QUALITY

PRESCRIBED BY (DOCUMENT) _________. THE

MANUFACTURER CERTIFIES THAT THIS ITEM MEETS THE

QUALITY OF SAMPLE APPROVED BY DAF.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Machine Wash Cold with Mild Detergent

Gentle Cycle and Low Spin Tumble Dry Low, Remove Promptly and Hang Immediately

Iron Low if Needed Fabric Softeners Not Recommended

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

MADE IN THE USA

3.7 Appearance after laundering (Class 2 only). The finished Class 2 skirt shall be laundered five (5) times in accordance with AATCC TM143. The seam appearance and smoothness appearance of the skirt shall be as follows:

a. The seam appearance of the skirt shall have a minimum average rating of 3.5 for each of the following areas: outseam, side pockets, fly, and waist when evaluated using the AATCC TM143 Photographic Seam Smoothness replicas for seam appearance and tested as specified in 4.8.

b. The smoothness appearance of the skirt shall have a minimum average rating of 4.0 when evaluated using AATCC TM143 3D Smoothness Appearance Replica and tested as specified in 4.8.

3.8 Dimensional changes after laundering (Class 2 only). The finished Class 2 skirt shall be laundered three (3) times in accordance with AATCC TM150. Dimensional changes to the Class 2 skirt after laundering shall be less than ±2.5 percent as specified in 4.8.

3.9 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns which show directional lines, size, pocket placement, and notches for the proper assembling unless otherwise specified (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except the additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as specified in Table II.

TABLE II. Seam allowance.

Seam allowance

(inches) Pattern

1/4 For pocket bags and pocket facing to bags 3/8 For pocket openings and waistband 1/2 Side seams (shell and lining), waistband side seams, and top of kick pleat 3/4 Center back shell seam and turn back for kick pleats 1 Center back lining seam

3.9.1 Pattern parts. The pattern parts of the skirt shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern nomenclature CAD pattern names Cut parts

Type I - Straight Basic material (see 3.5.1)

Front Skirt FRONT 1 Back Skirt BACK 2

Front Waistband FWBND 2 Back Waistband BWBND 4

Pocket Yoke PKTYOKE 2 Pocket Facing PKTFAC 2

Belt Loops LOOP 1 Lining (see 3.5.2)

Front Lining FRONTLIN 1 Back Lining BACKLIN 2

Pocketing (see 3.5.3) Pocket Bag PKT 2

Interlining (see 3.6.1)

Front Waistband Fusible FWBNDFUS 2 Back Waistband Fusible BWBNDFUS 4 Pocket Facing Fusible PKTFACFUS 2

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Continued.

Material Pattern nomenclature CAD pattern names Cut parts

Type II - Curvy Basic material (see 3.5.1)

Front Skirt FRONT 1 Back Skirt BACK 2

Front Waistband FWBND 2 Back Waistband BWBND 4

Pocket Yoke PKTYOKE 2 Pocket Facing PKTFAC 2

Belt Loops LOOP 1 Lining (see 3.5.2)

Front Lining FRONTLIN 1 Back Lining BACKLIN 2

Pocketing (see 3.5.3) Pocket Bag PKT 2

Interlining (see 3.6.1)

Front Waistband Fusible FWBNDFUS 2 Back Waistband Fusible BWBNDFUS 4 Pocket Facing Fusible PKTFACFUS 2

3.10 Construction. The skirt shall be constructed as specified in Table V; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed, as long as the resultant skirt is exactly the same as the skirt made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table V shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitches to facilitate the manufacture of the skirt shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitches are removed or shall not show on the finished skirt.

3.10.1 Stitches and seams. Stitches and seams, as specified in Table V, shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seams or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the skirt.

Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the skirt. The depth between the fold of seams required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped no less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitches overlap is required. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn.

3.10.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.10.1.2 Types 401, 406, 502, 503, 504, and 505 stitching and repairs. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching. Where stitch Type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished garment. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.1.1 a. and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Type 301 stitching shall be used to repair Type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.3 Type 101 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, excessively tight stitching, or puckering on outward appearance of the skirt. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the skirt, unless otherwise specified in Table V.

3.10.1.3.1 Repairs of Type 101 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack in same location after removing threads of first broken tack.

3.10.1.4 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.10.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.10.2 Buttonhole. The buttonholes shall be square bar-type, eyelet-end buttonholes, worked over gimp, with the purling on the outside of the waistband. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned.

3.10.3 Automatic button sewing. An automatic machine that sews and sets the buttons in one (1) operation shall be used.

3.10.4 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table IV. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

TABLE IV. Placement of bartacks.

Bartack location Size of bartack (inches)

Stitches per bartack

No. of bartacks per location

Total no. of bartacks

Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack 1/4 inch down from waistband seam 3/8 21-28 1 2

Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack on bottom of pocket opening 3/8 21-28 1 2

Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack top of belt loop 1/8 inch down from top of fold

3/8 21-28 1 6

Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack bottom of inside belt loop 3/8 inch below waistband seam

3/8 21-28 1 6

Zipper - Horizontal at base of zipper 3/8 21-28 1 1

3.10.5 Cutting. The parts of the skirt shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.9.1 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table III.

3.11 Manufacturing operation requirements. The skirt shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table V. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table V, providing the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.11.1 Shade and size marking. The cut parts of each skirt shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each skirt. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.11.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table V are as follows:

ABLT - Automatic Belt Loop Tacker brtck - Bartack btn - Button btnhl - Buttonhole

TABLE V. Table of operations.

No. Description of Operation Stitch type Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

1. Cut basic material.

a. Cut the skirt in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets, drill marks for finished placement of darts, and notches for proper assembly of parts.

b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic material.

c. Cut all parts of the skirt made of the basic material from the same piece of basic material, except parts that may be cut from ends. The front pocket facings and belt loops may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of other parts.

d. Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with Operation 7.

2. Cut lining and pocketing.

a. Cut the material for the lining in the warp direction, following the directional lines on the patterns.

b. Cut the material for the front pocket bags in the warp direction, following the directional lines on the patterns.

3. Cut interlining.

Cut the fusible interlining material for the front waistbands, back waistbands, and pocket facings.

4. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the skirt.

5. Replace defective or damaged parts.

a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, parts containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched parts.

b. Replace any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.

c. Replace any part of the skirt damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or an exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process.

Replace any part containing a mend visible on the outside of the finished skirt.

6. Fusing.

a. Position the pocket facing fusible interlining pieces to the front pocket facing pieces with the edges set back 1/8 inch from the front pocket facing pieces. Fuse the interlining to the front pocket facing pieces.

b. Position the front waistband fusible pieces to the front waistband pieces with edges set back 1/8 inch from the front waistband pieces.

Fuse the interlining to the front waistband pieces.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued.

Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

6. Fusing – Continued.

c. Position the back waistband fusible pieces to the back waistband pieces with edges set back 1/8 inch from the back waist pieces. Fuse the interlining to the back waistband pieces.

7. Make stripping for belt loops.

Finished appearance: The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping will incorporate a stiffener if automatic equipment is used.

a. Make the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center.

b. Stitch with coverstitch on the underside. 406 EFh-1 10-12

8. Overedge stitch.

a. Overedge stitch raw edge of outer shell side seam, kick pleat, bottom edge pocket facings, pocket yokes, center back seam, and hem.

502 or 503 or 504 EFd-1 8-10

b. Overedge stitch raw edges of lining side seams, center back seam, and hem.

502 or 503 or 504

EFd-1 8-10

9. Make back darts.

Fold and stitch the back darts as indicated on the pattern. Stitch each dart, tapering to nothing 1/2 inch past the dart drill point as indicated on pattern, chaining off 3/4 inch, not trimmed close. Turn the folded edge of the dart toward the center back seam on the inside of the skirt. The folded edge of all darts may be tacked before the waistband is attached to the skirt.

301 OSf-1 10-12

10. Make back.

Finished appearance: The open kick pleat folds over the wearer’s right side of the back and lies flat when in a closed position. The inside (underlapped) overedged edge of the right side of the skirt shall be turned under and edge stitched. With the skirt flat, the top of the kick pleat shall be topstitched through all plies on the diagonal, following the pattern.

a. On wearer’s right back, turn under 3/4 inch on kick pleat extension.

Edgestitch 1/16 inch from folded edge from the top of the kick pleat to the bottom of the skirt.

301 or 401 EFa-1 10-12

b. On wearer’s left back, turn under 3/4 inch on kick pleat extension.

Edgestitch 1/16 inch from folded edge from the top of the kick pleat to the bottom of the skirt. Fold under 2 inches.

301 or 401 EFa-1 10-12

c. Stitch center back seam together from zipper notch to top of kick pleat, pivot, and continue across top of kick pleat. Clip into corner.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-12

d. Press seam open and flat above kick pleat.

e. Topstitch kick pleat at the top through all plies. 301 SSv-1 10-12

Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

11. Make front pockets.

a. Place the pocket facing on the pocket bag, aligning the top and side edges, turn inner side under 1/4 inch and edgestitch 1/16 from folded edge and across lower end (see Figure 6).

301 LSd-1 10-12

b. Place front pocket yoke on pocket bag, aligning the top and side edges, turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner (straight) side and across lower end (see Figure 6).

301 LSd-1 10-12

12. Attach front pockets.

Finished appearance: The side seam edges of the pocket openings shall measure 6-1/2 inches and not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be not more than 1/8 inch out of alignment. The top of the pocket opening shall be positioned 1 inch from the finished outseam.

a. Fold the pocket bag, right sides together, and stitch the lower edge with a 3/16 to 1/4 inch seam.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-12

OR

Overedge stitch raw edges. 504 SSa-1 8-10

b. Sew a pocket to each skirt front at the pocket opening, first perpendicular to the cut edge, pivot at the corner, and continue to the waist. Clip into corner.

301 SSe-2(a) 10-12

c. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam rolled to the underside and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from front edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-12

13. Sew side seams.

a. Sew side seams with the notches matched. 301 or 401 SSa-1 10-12

b. Press side seams open from the bottom of the hem to the top of the skirt.

14. Attach size, identification, care instruction label, or certification label.

Attach size, identification, and care instruction label on inside wearer’s left lining, 4 inches above hem and 1 inch over from folded edge of kick pleat. Edgestitch 1/16 inch from edge of label on all four (4) sides. If certification label is required, place beside combination label and edge-stitch 1/16 inch from edge of label on all four (4) sides (see Figure 5).

301 SSaa-1 10-12

15. Set zipper.

Finished appearance: The zipper shall be set in a lap construction with at least 1/16 inch overlap of the fold over the right side of the back. The zipper pull must not show and the top of the slide fastener shall be set no more than 1/4 inch below the waistband seam.

Set zipper to back of skirt, from top of skirt down to notch, by folding basic material over zipper and stitching 1/16 inch from edge on right back. Lap left over right back, stitch across bottom of zipper and stitch 1/2 inch on left back.

301 SSak-1 10-12

Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

16. Make lining.

a. Stitch center back seam from notch at bottom of zipper opening to notch at top of kick pleat opening, using a 1 inch seam.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Fold back edges of lining opening 1 inch and stitch fold 3/8 inch on both sides from top of waist down to notch at bottom of zipper opening.

301 EFa-1 10-12

c. Fold back edges of lining opening 1 inch and stitch fold 3/8 inch on both sides from top of kick pleat opening to bottom of lining.

301 EFa-1 10-12

d. Fold lining pleats in back panels in accordance with the pattern marks. Pleat shall be folded toward side seam. Staystitch top of pleat.

e. Join the front lining to the back lining at side seams using 1/2 inch seam.

301 Ose-1 10-12

f. Press back and side seams open.

g. Stitch waistline of lining to waistline of skirt. 301 SSa-1 10-12

17. Attach front, side, and back belt loops to skirt.

NOTE: There shall be six (6) belt loops on the skirt.

a. Stay belt loops on back panels according to notches on waistline of skirt (1/2 inch from dart between dart and side seam).

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Stay belt loops on front panel according to notches on waistline of skirt (centered between center front and side seam).

301 SSa-1 10-12

c. Stay one (1) loop at each side of the skirt, positioned just behind each side seam.

301 SSa-1 10-12

18. Make waistband.

a. Join the front waistband to the back waistband. Sew the front and back waistband facings together.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Sew waistband and waistband facing together at top. Turn seam to inside of waistband and edgestitch 1/16 inch from the inside edge.

Stitching should be visible on the inside of the waistband only.

301 SSa-1 10-12

c. Overedge the inside portion of the waistband. 502 or 503 or 504 or

EFd-1 8-10

19. Set waistband.

Finished appearance: The waistband shall be sewn on smoothly and evenly and shall have a flat appearance without gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortions, The waistband shall be an even width along its entire length. The finished waistband shall be 1-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide. The waistband shall have a 1-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) underlap and overlap at center back.

Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

19. Set waistband – Continued.

a. Seam the front and back waistband sections to the front and back of the skirt, working in fullness evenly between the notches and catching the top ends of the zipper tape and the top of the pockets in the stitching.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-12

b. Seam across the waistband ends and lower tab portion following notches on patterns. Trim, turn, and work out corners.

301 SSa-1 10-12

20. Make buttonholes in waistband.

Finished appearance: The finished cut length of the buttonholes shall be 5/8 to 3/4 inch and with the inside edge of the eyelets 7/16 to 9/16 inch from the edges of the waistband. Either a cut-before or a cut-after buttonhole is acceptable. Both buttonholes shall be placed horizontally and centered on the waistband.

Make first buttonhole in the wearer’s left side of the waistband extension. The purling of the first buttonhole shall be on the outside of the garment. Make second buttonhole in the wearer’s right side of the waistband extension. The purling of the second buttonhole shall face the wearer of the finished skirt.

btnhl 52-54 per btnhl

21. Attach buttons to waistband.

Finished appearance: There shall be no gaps, bulges, twists, or other distortions when waistband is buttoned and the zipper is closed. Button stitching should not be visible on the outside of the skirt.

a. With zipper fully closed, mark placement of buttons on the back part of the waistband corresponding to the eyelet of the buttonholes.

b. Sew a button at each placement mark. 301 or 101 14-16 per btn

22. Finish waistband.

Stitch in the ditch at base of waistband, catching inside facing to secure waistband.

301 BSf-2(b) 10-12

23. Finish all belt loops.

Finished appearance: The belt loops are stitched (encased) in the waistband seam at bottom. The belt loops shall be bartacked 3/8 inch below the seam that joins the waistband to the skirt and the bottom bartack shall not be visible on outside of belt loop. Loops are turned under and bartacked at the top of the waistband, 1/8 inch from top edge through all plies. The belt loop shall have enough ease to allow for a 1- 1/4 inches wide belt to easily thread. The finished belt loops shall measure 1-7/8 inches to 2 inches from the top folded edge to the bottom folded edge.

a. Bartack each belt loop, horizontally, 3/8 inch below seam that joins the waistband to the skirt as indicated in Table IV.

brtck 21-28 per brtck

Seam and stitching type Stitches per inch

23. Finish all belt loops – Continued.

b. Turn under top end of each belt loop 1/4 inch and bartack, horizontally, to the skirt 1/8 inch below top edge of waistband as indicated in Table IV.

brtck 21-28 per brtck NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, all belt loops shall be attached in this operation using the location and dimensions prescribed for the manually attached belt loops. Each end of the belt loop shall be turned under 1/4 inch and attached with a bartack 1/8 inch from the turned end of the belt loop.

ABLT

24. Bartack.

Finished appearance: The bartacks shall be well made and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified. The distance between the bartacks of each pocket opening shall be not less than 6 inches or more than 6-1/2 inches.

a. Bartack the upper end of each pocket opening 1/4 inch below the waistband seam, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening, horizontally, so the bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam as indicated in Table IV.

brtck 21-28 per brtck

b. Bartack base of zipper below zipper stop, horizontally, superimposed on line of stitching through all plies including lining with 3/8 inch bartack as indicated in Table IV.

brtck 21-28 per brtck

25. Clean skirt.

a. Trim thread ends and remove all loose threads, inside and outside.

b. Remove all spots, stains, and shade or size markings.

26. Press skirt.

NOTE: All pressing required shall be done with a heated pressing iron or machine.

a. Press the entire skirt smooth and flat.

b. Pleats in the back lining shall be pressed toward side seam.

c. Darts shall be pressed flat toward center back seam.

d. Pockets shall be pressed flat toward center of garment.

27 Attach hem tape.

a. Insert 65 inches of 1/2 inch hem tape into a sealable plastic bag holder.

b. Attach at inner seam allowance of wearer’s left side seam using 3 inches barbed plastic fastener.

3.12 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the skirt shall conform to Tables VI or VII when measured according to the method in 3.12.1. All measurements shall be in inches.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements for Type I – Straight (inches).

Size 1/2

Waist (A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Sweep

(C)

Length (D)

Kick Pleat Length (E)

Short Reg Long Short Reg Long 0 13-1/2 18-1/4 19-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 2 14 18-3/4 20-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 4 14-1/2 19-1/4 20-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 6 15 19-3/4 21-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 8 15-1/2 20-1/4 21-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 10 16 20-3/4 22-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 12 16-3/4 21-1/2 23 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 14 17-1/2 22-1/4 23-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 16 18-1/4 23 24-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 18 19-1/4 24 25-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 20 20-1/4 25 26-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 22 21-1/4 26 27-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 24 22-1/4 27 28-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2

TOLERANCE ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

TABLE VII. Finished measurements for Type II – Curvy (inches).

Size 1/2

Waist (A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Sweep

(C)

Length (D)

Kick Pleat Length (E)

Short Reg Long Short Reg Long 0 12-1/2 18-1/4 19-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 2 13 18-3/4 20-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 4 13-1/2 19-1/4 20-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 6 14 19-3/4 21-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 8 14-1/2 20-1/4 21-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 10 15 20-3/4 22-1/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 12 15-3/4 21-1/2 23 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 14 16-1/2 22-1/4 23-3/4 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 16 17-1/4 23 24-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 18 18-1/4 24 25-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 20 19-1/4 25 26-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 22 20-1/4 26 27-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2 24 21-1/4 27 28-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 11-1/2 13 14-1/2

TOLERANCE ±3/8 ±3/8 ±3/8 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

[This space intentionally left blank.]

3.12.1 Methods of measurement. The skirt shall be laid smooth and flat, with zipper closed, waistband buttoned, and measured at the specified locations (see Figure 7.)

(A) 1/2 Waist Align front and back waistband at top edge and measure straight across the top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(B) 1/2 Hip Measure straight across the skirt at the bottom of the front pocket openings from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) 1/2 Sweep Measure straight across the bottom of the skirt from folded edge to folded edge.

(D) Length At the center back of the skirt, measure from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the hem.

(E) Kick Pleat Length At the back of the skirt, measure from the stitch line that intersects with the center back seam to the bottom of the unhemmed skirt.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished skirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each skirt shall be examined closed, zipped, buttoned, pressed, and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. A skirt containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-1609. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels as specified in the contract.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

c. Component and material inspection (see 4.4)

d. End item exam (see 4.6)

e. End item dimensional inspection (see 4.7)

4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.1. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this specification. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The inspection and the Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.4 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents (see 2.1) unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.4.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VIII shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing shall be followed as specified in Table VIII.

The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit Pocketing Linear yard 2

Zipper tape Piece 5 each size Hem tape Linear yard 2

TABLE VIII. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test method

Pocketing

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 3.5.3 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C

Fiber identification 3.5.3 AATCC TM20 Fiber content (%) 3.5.3 AATCC TM20A

Warp and filling (yarns per inch) 3.5.3 ASTM D3775 Weave 3.5.3 Visual

Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) 3.5.3 AATCC TM8, 1/, 2/

Zipper tape

Colorfastness to laundering (5 cycles) 3.6.2

AATCC TM61, Test 2A 2/, 3/

Colorfastness to drycleaning (3 cycles) AATCC TM132 2/, 4/

Hem tape Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) 3.6.5 AATCC TM8, 1/, 2/

1/ Evaluate using AATCC EP8, Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP2, Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Evaluate using AATCC EP1, Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change.

4/ One (1) specimen shall be agitated in perchloroethylene or other environmentally friendly cleaning agent and air dried. Any color change of the specimen shall be evaluated with AATCC EP1, Evaluation Procedure for AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.

4.5 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.6 End item exam. The end item shall be examined for compliance with 3.3 through

3.13. The skirt shall be examined for defects in material, design, construction, dimensions, and workmanship in accordance with MIL-STD-1609. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection.

4.7 End item dimensional inspection. The skirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimension specified in Tables VI and VII. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of a skirt. The inspection and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.8 End item testing for Class 2 skirt. The seam appearance, smoothness appearance, and dimensional changes of the Class 2 skirt shall be as specified in Table IX.

NOTE: Shade parts – There shall be no variation in shade within a part or between parts.

TABLE IX. End item testing for Class 2 skirt.

Characteristic Requirement Test method

Seam appearance (after 5 launderings) 3.7 AATCC TM143, (3), (III), (A)iii

Smoothness appearance (after 5 launderings) 3.7 AATCC TM143, (3), (III), (A)iii

Dimensional changes (after 3 launderings) 3.8 AATCC TM150, (3), (III), (A)iii

4.9 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of section 3 and all inspections of section 4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements or the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.10 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s System Commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The skirt is intended for wear by USAF personnel.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Type, lengths, and sizes required (see 1.2.1 and 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article/pilot lot sample is required (see 3.1.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

6.3 Certification. The certification for the skirt must be in accordance with the operating procedures of the DAF Optional Uniform Certification Procedures.

6.4 Standard sample, artwork, and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples and Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at https://www.dla.mil/Troop-Support/Clothing-and-Textiles/Industry-Support/Spec-Request/.

6.5 Suggested sources. All suggested sources shall be provided for reference.

6.5.1 Basic material, Class 1 source. A suggested source for Class 1 basic material is Burlington Fabrics, https://burlingtonfabrics.com (see 3.5.1.1). Table X provides the related style number for Class 1 basic material.

6.5.2 Basic material, Class 2 source. A suggested source for Class 2 basic material is Burlington Fabrics, https://burlingtonfabrics.com (see 3.5.1.2). Table X provides the related style number for Class 2 basic material.

6.5.3 Lining source. A suggested source for lining is Ace Binding Company, Inc., https://acebinding.com (see 3.5.2). Table X provides the related style number for the lining.

6.5.4 Pocketing source. A suggested source for pocketing is Burlington Fabrics, https://burlingtonfabrics.com (see 3.5.3). Table X provides the related style number for the pocketing.

6.5.5 Interlining source. A suggested source for the fusible interlining is Harodite Industries Inc., https://www.harodite.com.com (see 3.6.1). Table X provides the related style number for the fusible interlining.

6.5.6 Buttons source. A suggested source for the buttons is US Button at Emsig Manufacturing Corp., https://www.usbutton.com (see 3.6.3). Table X provides the related style number for the buttons.

6.5.7 Hem tape source. A suggested source for the hem tape is Ace Binding Company, Inc., https://acebinding.com (see 3.6.5).