ODUTROUSERSDRAFT9_24_07(2).doc

Specification

INCH-POUND

CDTO-PD-XX-CG

September 24, 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSER, OPERATIONAL DRESS UNIFORM, UNTUCKED (COAST GUARD)

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform trouser worn by US Coast Guard personnel.

1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I Schedule sizes X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large

X‑Short X‑Short X‑Short ------- -------- ---------

Short Short Short Short Short ---------

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular ---------

Long Long Long Long Long --------- Long

------ X‑Long X‑Long X-Long --------- ---------- X-Long

------ ------- XX-Long XX-Long --------- XX-Long

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: U.S. Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760-5004

FSC 8415

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in issues of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4B - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-595B - Colors Used in Government Procurement

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Poly Core Cotton Covered

A-A-55634A - Slide Fastener

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-543 – Buckles, Tongueless, Web Strap.

MIL-W-5664- Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-DTL-32075 – Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-T-43566 – Tape, Textile, Cotton or Polyester, General Purpose, Natural or in Colors.

MIL-C-44296 – Cloth, Fusibles

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, Hand Button, Staple (Plastic)

V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CG/PD 04-9407 Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/ Cotton Blend

2.3 Non‑Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D-2256 Tensile Properties of Yarns by Single-Strand Method

ASTM D-6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

Copies of these documents are available from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive West Conshohoken, Philadelphia, PA 19428‑2959.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated

AATCC 136 Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

Copies of these documents are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215 Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215 or from www.aatcc.org Phone number (919) 549-8141.

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

Copies of these documents are available from the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308 or from www.ansi.org.)

2.4 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design and construction. The trousers have a button and concealed slide fastener fly, front panels with a centered single stitched pleat (the fold of the pleat faces the outseam), hemmed legs, seven evenly spaced 3/4 +/- 1/8 inch wide belt loops with a 1 ¾-2 ¼ inches belt loop opening. The trouser shall have side tab adjustments on the waistband, see Figure 1. The trousers have two side hanging pockets and two welt opening hip pockets. There are two pleated cargo type pockets (the pleats face the back of the trousers) with the flap bartacked at forward lower corner and one rear button closure, a bottom bellow and elasticized pocket upper edge creating an adjustable opening to secure the contents when the flap is not buttoned. The elasticized cargo pocket edge requires elongation/extension when the hand is inserted into the pocket yet does not distort the trouser leg when lying in the gathered/relaxed closed position. Drainage holes are positioned in the cargo pocket bellow positioned near the back of the pocket, see Figure 2. All pockets, except for the side hanging ones have a flap with fusible interlining and closure with concealed buttons. The trousers have single layer external reinforcement patches at the seat and knees. There shall be an embroidered Coast Guard shield centered on the cargo pocket flaps. The bottom hem on each leg has horizontal buttonholes for blousing. The crotch seams are off-set and bartacked using nylon B thread as specified in 3.6.2.3. (See Figure 3)

3.4 Basic material. The basic material shall be nylon/cotton ripstop dyed USCG Blue 3362, conforming to the requirements specified in CG/PD 04-9407.

3.5 Seconds/mill seconds. Seconds/mill seconds cloth shall be dyed in conformance with specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. Seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for defects pertaining to color only, as cited in the specified basic material requirements. Mill seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for visual defects only and has been dyed to match specified basic material. (see 3.13.1).

3.6 Components

3.6.1 Interlining. To improve abrasion resistance and appearance of garment, pockets flaps shall be interlined. The interlining shall have the same life expectancy of the trouser itself. After attaching to the basic cloth, it shall meet an initial directional bond strength of 32 ounces minimum per inch, and after 3 launderings, it shall meet a directional bond of 24 ounces minimum per inch when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.6.2 Thread, gimp, embroidery yarn.

3.6.2.1 Thread. The thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core, commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36-50) with a minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31 to 35) with a breaking strength of 2.6 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2 may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.2 Alternate Seam Thread. The needle thread for the alternate seams shall be 100% nylon size B thread conforming to V-T-295. The bobbin (looper thread) for the alternate seams shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with minimum break strength of 3.2 lbs conforming to A-A-50199. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.3 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached usingV-T-295, Thread, Nylon, Size B. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.4 Gimp. Thread for reinforcement of buttonholes shall be cotton, commercial size Ticket No. 8 (Tex size 210) with a minimum breaking strength of 6.5 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.5 Embroidery Yarns. The yarns shall be polyester (with abundant luster), bright, continuous filament embroidery yarn conforming to Madeira 40, Royal Blue 1134, or equal. All yarns shall show colorfastness to light, laundering, and wet-dry cleaning of not less than grade 4 when tested as specified in Table VI.

3.6.2.6 Colorfastness. All thread used shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.3

3.6.3 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be type I, style 1, cam lock, size LM, short tab pull, brass conforming to A-A-55634A, except that the salt spray test shall not apply. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass. Also, all components shall be from the same supplier. A staple bottom stop is required. The color of the tape shall be black. The tape shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in A-A-55634A.

3.6.4 Buckles. The buckles for the waist adjustment straps shall be tongue-less, 2-bar conforming to Type II, Class 3, Style 3, 5/8” of MIL-B-543.

3.6.5 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, class D, style 26, 30‑line of V‑B‑871. The buttons shall be dull finish, 4-hole and shall be in accordance with the following button style:

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Blue 3362. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lb when tested as specified in 4.4.4. When attached to the waistband, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40lb. (min.), when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Buttons shall be attached with and X-stitch.

3.7 Materials. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification.

3.7.1 Cloth, side and hip hanging pockets, waistband lining, right fly lining, left fly, cargo pocket facing and protective flap. The cloth for side and hip hanging pockets, waistband lining, right fly lining, left fly, cargo pocket facings and protective flap shall be basic material. Seconds/mill seconds cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. Seconds shall be cloth rejected for defects pertaining to color only, as cited in the specified basic material requirements. Mill seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for visual defects only and has been dyed to match the specified basic material. Shaded parts may be used for right fly lining and cargo pocket facing only.

3.7.2 Cloth, fusible, interlining pocket flaps. The material for interlining the pocket flaps of the trousers shall conform to bonding strength and type VI, class 3, adhesive dot application style B of MIL‑C‑44296.

3.7.3 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. Fuse a single layer of fusible interlining to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing, which can create differential shrinkage, and uneven bonding, shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. The temperature used in fusing shall not exceed 340°F and shall not cause an objectionable color change or staining of the basic fabric. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to ensure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time, cleanliness, and bonding strength. The fusing process will be controlled to assure that the fused plies of material show no sign of bubbling or delamination initially or after 3 launderings when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.7.4 Tape, textile, cotton. The tapes for the adjustment straps shall be 5/8 inch wide, black conforming to Type I, class 3 of MIL‑T‑43566, except that the colorfastness to crocking and accelerated weathering shall not apply.

3.7.5 Elastic Webbing. The elastic webbing for the trouser cargo pocket shall be 1 inch wide and conform to equal to or better performance of Type II, class 1 of MIL-W-5664 or QST style 150-43171RA, 1 ½ ( 1/16 inches or equal as specified in Table I. Elastic ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. When 1-½ inch elastic is used, the manufacturer will adjust patterns to accommodate the wider elastic without altering finished dimensions created by GFM patterns and stitching. The color shall be black. The elastic in the cargo pocket opening shall extend the full width to achieve a 6 ¾ to 7 ½ inches relaxed opening.

The elastic will retreat to its relaxed opening position when the hand is removed. The encased elastic webbing for the cargo pocket shall lie flat in the relaxed state and not distort the trouser leg. The cargo pocket opening shall retain its elongation/recovery characteristic for the life of the garment. The finished cargo pocket features shall conform to the following requirements:

TABLE II

3.8 Labels. Each trouser shall have a size label, an identification label, and a care label. The identification and care labels may be combined. The ground color for all labels shall be white with black lettering, and the inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the trouser.

3.8.1 Identification label. The identification label shall contain the item description, contract number, fiber content information and contractor's name.

3.8.2 Care label. The care label shall include the following information:

Trouser, Operational Dress USCG Blue 3362

1. For best results secure button and slide fastener closures, then turn garment inside out before washing.

2. Machine washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water and mild detergent.

3. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

4.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

5. Dry at low heat (Do not exceed 130°F). After drying, tumble at room temperature for 10 minutes. Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on rust-proof hanger.

6. Do not commercially hot press. Light ironing if needed.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.8.3 Size label: Size label shall be positioned on inside center back, left of the seat seam and catch in the waistband stitching. The size label shall contain the following information:

X-Small - X-Short X-Small - Short X-Small - Regular X-Small - Long

Inseam: Up to Inseam: 26-1/2 to Inseam: 29-1/2 to Inseam: 32-1/2

26-1/2 in. 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in. 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in. Waist: Up to 27 in Waist: Up to 27 in. Waist: Up to 27 in.

Small - X-Short Small - Short Small - Regular Small - Long

Inseam: Up to Inseam: 26-1/2 to Inseam: 29-1/2 to Inseam: 32-1/2 to

26- 1/2 in 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in. 35- 1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in. Waist: 27 to 31 in. Waist: 27 to 31 in. Waist: 27 to 31 in.

Small –X-Long Medium – X-Short Medium – Short Medium – Regular

Inseam: Over Inseam: Up to Inseam: 26-1/2 to Inseam: 29-1/2 to

35-1/2 in 26- 1/2 in 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in Waist: 31 to 35 in. Waist: 31 to 35 in. Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Medium – Long Medium – X-long Medium – XX-long Large – Short Inseam: 32-1/2 to Inseam: 35-1/2 to Inseam: Over Inseam: 26-1/2 to

35- 1/2 in. 38-1/2 in. 38-1/2 in 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in. Waist: 31 to 35 in Waist: 31 to 35 in Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Large – Regular Large – Long Large– X-Long X-Large – Short Inseam: 29-1/2 to Inseam: 32-1/2 to Inseam: 35-1/2 to Inseam: 26-1/2 to 32-1/2 in. 35- 1/2 in. 38-1/2 in 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in. Waist: 35 to 39 in. Waist: 35 to 39 in Waist: 39 to 43 in.

X-Large – Regular X-Large – Long Large–X X-Long XX-Large – XX-Long Inseam: 29-1/2 to Inseam: 32-1/2 to Inseam: Over Inseam: over

32-1/2 in.

35-1/2 in. 38-1/2 in 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43

in. Waist: 39 to 43 in. Waist: 35 to 39 in. Waist: 43 to 47 in.

XXX Large – Long XXX Large – X Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to Inseam: 35-1/2 to

35-1/2 in. 38-1/2 in.

Waist: Over 47 in. Waist: Over 47 in.

3.8.4 Label placement. The labels shall be sewn on all four sides attached to the trousers and positioned as follows:

3.8.4.1 Combination identification /care label: This label is positioned on right hip pocket (as worn) so that on the finished trousers the label shall face the wearer. The combination label shall be no larger than the pocket to which it is attached. The label shall be sewn on all four sides. The label colors shall be white with black lettering. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.9 Combination identification / instruction label. Combination identification label (class l) and the instruction label (class 3) may be combined into one label. The combination shall conform to the requirements of the class 15 label.

3.9.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to class 1.

3.9.2 Instruction label. The trousers shall be titled: TROUSERS OPERATIONAL DRESS UNIFORM UNTUCKED. The label for the trousers shall conform to class 3, containing the following information:

1. Adjust waist size by straps on waistband.

2. Blouse trouser outside of boots.

3. Machine washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water with mild detergent.

4. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

5. DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

6. Dry at low heat (do not exceed l30°F). After drying, tumble at room temperature for l0 minutes. Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on rust‑proof hanger.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.10 Embroidery Files. The Coast Guard shall furnish embroidery files to manufacturer the

Coast Guard shield. The embroidery yarns shall be as described in 3.6.2.5. Proper placement of the Coast Guard shield shall be in accordance with pattern markings. (See Figure 1)

3.11 Seaming. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM D-6193 stitch and seam types listed in Table III below. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation, discomfort or poor appearance. To maintain durability and functionality, the seams shall be sewn with 12-14 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of ¼” backstitched or ½” overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 – 10 stitches per inch. To maintain all durability and functionality, bartacks, except for the waistband and cargo pocket elastic bartacks, shall be 3/8 to 5/8 inch in length with approximately 27 stitches each. The cargo pocket elastic bartacks shall be 1 –1 1/8” with 55 – 65 total stitches, and placed at each end of the elastic when the elastic floats within the casing. Bartacks are required at the specified reinforcement points (see Figures 1-4) and centered on belt loop for attachment. The buttonholes shall be eyelet end, tapered bar, with ¾ inch cut opening and 52 – 56 stitches per inch.

The buttonhole purling shall be between tab and flap plies, front facing and front plies, fly and front waist, and on the outside of the blouse and trousers. The pocket drainage eyelets shall have a minimum of 19 stitches each, with the purling on the outside. Material edges must not ravel. Raw edges may be turned-in, turned-under or serged to prevent raveling. No raw edges are allowed.

3.11.1 Alternate Seaming and Stitching The following seams shall be sewn with the alternate B/50 thread combination specified in paragraph 3.6.2.2. Trouser inseams, seat seams, seat patch, knee patch, and bartack crotch intersection.

TABLE III Seam types Seam Placement

Waistband

Or SSa-2

515,516, or 519

or

SSbe-2 Hip pocket welt width ¼ - 3/8 inch:

Pad opening welt width: 1 +/- 1/8 in.

Hems:

trouser legs

3.12 The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns, which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. Minor adjustments are permitted to accommodate procedures however; the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.13 List of pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of ½ inch seam for outseam, inseam and seat seam, ¼ inch seam allowance for hip, cargo pocket flap and tabs and 3/8 seam allowance for all other seams.

TABLE IV List of pattern parts- First Quality

3.13.1 Parts cut from mill seconds. Table V lists the pattern parts which may be cut from mill seconds (see 3.5).

TABLE V. List of pattern parts that may be cut from seconds.

1/ When alternate sewn‑on waistband and fly pattern pieces are used, disregard these pattern pieces.

2/ When alternate (one‑piece) hip pocket flap and tab, cargo pocket flap and tab and alternate fusible pattern pieces are used, disregard separate (two‑piece) flap, tab and fusible pieces.

3/ When cargo pocket facing and waistband lining are strip cut and put on rolls, disregard these pattern pieces.

4/ Waistband and waistband lining are cut from the same pattern part.

3.13.2 Configuration. The following specifications are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort and durability in garrison use, combat, and operations other than war. End item trouser construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements of this document and the finished dimension tables (see 4.4.8) and figures 1–4 to maintain item configuration and compliance to component and end item tests (see 4.4).

3.13.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Minor modifications to patterns to accommodate automation or to the methods used to the finished dimensions are acceptable.

4.0 VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANZI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Bond strength test. The interlining shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.1 when tested according to AATCC TM 136, paragraph 11.

4.4.2 Breaking strength and elongation test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.1 and 3.6.2.2 when tested according to ASTM-D-2256, except testing speed shall be 12 ( 0.5 in./min and a 10 inch gauge shall be used.

4.4.3 Colorfastness test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.3 when tested according to AATCC TM 61, Test 3A (4 cycles).

4.4.4 Compressive strength test. The buttons shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.5 when tested for compressive strength using an apparatus that permits gradual application of the load either by a manual or automatic hydraulic mechanism. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel, and tested to failure. Failure is defined as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in the button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking).

4.4.5 Button pull test. The buttons attached to the trouser shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.5 when tested according to ASTM D-5034, except slide the button between the two upper 1 inch wide grips such that it rests on top of those grips that are separated by at least 3/8 inch. Use manually adjusted grips, place the button attachment stitching in the center of bottom grips such they grab the material directly beneath the button stitching, not on the stitching itself.

4.4.6 Embroidery Yarns Testing. The embroidery shall meet the requirements specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI.

Colorfastness:

4.4.7 End item visual examination. The trouser shall be examined for defects listed below.

Table VII End Item Visual Examination

Fabric used for trouser not as specified.

Shade variation within a part or between parts

Stitching

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, repaired, wavy, twisted, irregular , loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, fullness, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, visible raw edge effecting appearance or serviceability.

Evenness

Waistband uneven more than ¼ inch when buttoned

Inseam and/or outseam lengths vary by more than ½ inch from leg to leg

Bottom openings vary by more than ½ inch in half width

Evenness of length between inseam and outseam varies by more than ½”

Buttons & Buttonholes

Pocket flap and waistband buttons and buttonholes out of alignment causing bulge, twist or distortion when buttoned Buttonholes and eyelets omitted, added, not clean cut or securely caught in fabric, not specified type, not specified location.

Hem width of trousers less than 1/2” or more than 3/4".

Pockets twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched or located as specified

Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening, not positioned as specified

Pocket flaps not centered over pocket opening. Flap width extends pass finished pocket edge by more than 1/8” on each side.

Cargo pocket elasticized opening less than 6-3/4 or more than 7- 1/2 inches in width, forward bottom corner of flap not bartacked down. Bartack not positioned and stitched through both flap and pocket.

Side Hanging pocket opening less than 6 inches.

Patches

Seat and knee patches omitted, not attached as specified, not positioned as specified in pattern

Slide fastener

Slide pull becomes detached or slider disengages from either row of scoops

Chain becomes unmeshed or does not mesh properly

Any required component missing or not properly assembled

Slider lock does not retain slider when pull is in down position on non-automatic lock, or when pull is released on automatic lock, when the open chain above the slider is lightly pulled apart

Slider binds, catches, or sticks at any point or does not function properly

Chain (scoops) installed upside down

Cut, tear or hole in slide fastener tape

Stitching too close to close to metal edge not permitting slider to pass freely

Tape set to loose or too tight causing bulge, twist, fullness in closed fly

Stop not securely clinched at bottom of chain

Slide fastener is not type or style specified

Packaging

Any trouser not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

Cleanliness

Spot, stain, excessive thread not trimmed or removed

Odor, affecting appearance or serviceability

Shade

Thread or button color not as specified

4.4.8 Finished dimensions. The trouser shall conform to the dimensions listed below.

TABLE VIII Finished dimensions

All measurements in inches

Table VIII. Unisex Trouser – Finished Dimensions (inches)

1/2 Waist 1/

X-Small

Small

Medium

Large

X-Large

XX-Large

XXX-Large

-1/4

+1/2

Inseam: 2/

X-Small

Small

Medium

Large

X-Large

XX-Large

XXX-Large 29-3/4

29-3/4

29-3/4

31-3/4

31-3/4

31-3/4

31-3/4

31-3/4

33-3/4

33-3/4

33-3/4

33-3/4

33-3/4

33 3/4 35-3/4

35-3/4

35-3/4

35-3/4

35-3/4

35-3/4

37-3/4

37-3/4

37-3/4

37 3/4

37 3/4

+ 3/4

Table XI. Unisex Trouser – Finished Measurement (inches)

Continued

Outseam: 3/

X-Small

Small

Medium

Large

X-Large

XX-Large 38-3/4

39-1/4

39-3/4

41-1/4

41-3/4

42-1/4

42-3/4

43-1/4

43-3/4

44-1/4

44-3/4

45-1/4

45-3/4

46 1/4 46-1/4

46-3/4

47-1/4

47-3/4

48-1/4

48-3/4

49-1/4

49-3/4

50-1/4

50 3/4

51 1/4 + 3/4

Bottom: 4/

X-Small

Small

Medium

Large

X-Large

XX-Large

17-3/4

17-3/4

17-3/4

18-1/2

17-3/4

17-3/4

18-1/2

18 1/2

17-3/4

17-3/4

18-1/2

18-1/2

17-3/4

17-3/4

18 1/2

18 1/2 + 1/2

Method of measuring. The waistband and fly shall be buttoned and trousers placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

1/ Measure along center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Measure inseam of trousers from crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser leg.

3/ Measure from top edge of waist to bottom of leg along outseam.

4/ Measure across bottom of leg. Multiply by two.

4.5 In‑process fusing maintenance and representative

production tests.

TABLE VIII

Fusing press maintenance:

Representative production:

4.5.1 Pressure evenness and dwell time. Cut five strips, 8 inches in the warp direction by 2 inches in the filling direction, of outershell material and slightly smaller sized fusible interlining cloth material. Place each of the fusible strips, with the adhesive side down, on the top of the outershell material with the face side down and with a fusible starter strip. Arrange the five specimens on the fusing press conveyor belt along side each other in five different lanes, consisting of extreme left, middle left, center, middle right, and extreme right. For head press equipment, place a specimen in each corner and one in the middle. Run the specimens through the fusing press and using a stopwatch, mark the time elapsed between the time the leading edge of one of the specimens comes under pressure contact and the time it is released from the pressure contact. Remove the strips from the fusing machine when adequately cooled, cut fused outershell/fusible laminate to 1 inch in the filling direction, and perform the bonding test in 4.4.1 on all five specimens. The dwell time should be consistent with the machine speed ratings. The fusible manufacturers recommended range and all five specimens should meet the minimum initial requirement for bond strength. Any variations shall be investigated for cause, corrections made, and the testing process repeated.

4.5.2 Laundered appearance and bonding strength. For testing, prepare an 8 inch in the warp by an 11 inch in the filling, outershell material specimen representative of each 1000 unit production end item lot. Prepare a slightly smaller sized fusible interlining cloth specimen and fuse in accordance with 4.5.1. Launder the fused sample three times in accordance with MIL‑C‑44296 requirements, except launder for a minimum of 10 minutes and do not condition to equilibrium under standard conditions. Examine the test.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department's System Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Trouser

Clothing

Operational Dress Uniform (ODU)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians:

Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO

USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

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