ODUSHIRTDRAFT9_24_07.doc

INCH‑POUND

CDTO-PD-XX-CG

September 24, 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, OPERATIONAL DRESS UNIFORM, UNTUCKED (COAST GUARD)

This document is approved for use by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform (ODU) shirt worn by US Coast Guard personnel.

1.2 Classification. The shirt will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes - Shirts

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the U.S Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

FSC 8415

TABLE I Schedule of sizes, cont.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4B – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-595B – Colors Used in Government Procurement

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 Thread, Poly Core Cotton Covered

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, Hand Button, Staple (Plastic)

V-T-295 – Thread, Nylon

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CDTO-PD-0501-CG Name/Service Tapes for US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform

CG/PD 04-9407

Cloth, Ripstop Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. (See 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D-2256

Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single‑Strand Method

ASTM D-6193

Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428‑2959 or from www.astm.org.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 61

Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated

AATCC 136

Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

(Copies of these documents are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park NC 27709‑2215 or from www.aatcc.org. Phone number (919) 549-8141.)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4

Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018‑3308 or from www.ansi.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design and construction. The shirt is single-breasted design with a pointed collar, a semi-suppressed waist and straight cut bottom. The shirt shall have a concealed button front closure, two breast pockets with flaps horizontally aligned with each other, and there shall be no exposed drill holes. The left breast pocket has a concealed pencil pocket opening. There shall be an embroidered Coast Guard shield centered on the right breast pocket. The shirt has long sleeves with reinforced extended elbow patches and adjustable cuffs at wrist with three buttons in the sleeve hem wrist closure adjustment. (See Figure(s) 1 and 2).

3.4 Basic material. The basic material shall be a nylon/cotton ripstop dyed USCG Blue 3362, conforming to the requirements specified in CG/PD 04-9407.

3.5 Seconds/mill seconds. Seconds/mill seconds cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. Seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for defects pertaining to color only, as cited in the specified basic material requirements. Mill seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for visual defects only and has been dyed to match specified basic material. (See 3.12.1).

3.6 Components

3.6.1 Interlining. To improve abrasion resistance and appearance of garment, the collar and pocket flaps shall be interlined. The interlining shall have the same life expectancy of the shirt itself. After attaching to the basic cloth, it shall meet an initial directional bond strength of 32 ounces minimum per inch, and after 3 launderings, it shall meet a directional bond strength of 24 ounces minimum per inch when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.6.2 Thread, gimp, embroidery yarn.

3.6.2.1 Thread. Thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core, commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with a minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31 to 35) with a breaking strength of 2.6 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2 may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.2 Alternate Seam Thread. The needle thread for the alternate seams shall be 100% nylon size B thread conforming to V-T-295. The bobbin (looper thread) for the alternate seams shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with minimum break strength of 3.2 lbs conforming to A-A-50199. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.3 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached usingV-T-295, Thread, Nylon, Size B. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.4 Gimp. Thread for reinforcement of buttonholes shall be cotton, commercial size Ticket No. 8 (Tex size 210) with a minimum breaking strength of 6.5 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.5 Embroidery Yarns. The yarns shall be polyester (with abundant luster), bright, continuous filament embroidery yarn conforming to Madeira 40, Royal Blue 1134, or equal. All yarns shall show colorfastness to light, laundering, and wet-dry cleaning of not less than grade 4 when tested as specified in Table VI.

3.6.2.6 Colorfastness. All thread used shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6.3 Fastener tape (hook & loop). Fastener tape for the shirt shall be 1 inch by 1 inch square. Fastener tape shall conform to type I class 1 of A-A-55126 except that it shall be extruded hook, nylon base, low profile “wash & wear” YKK Style HDPE (SA200) for the hook and YKK Style NYL-LP for the loop or equal commercial tape. It shall not pick up lint after 5 home launderings when tested as specified in AATCC 135 using a high degree of cotton ballast. The color of the hook and loop shall be black. Sew two one inch squares of hook fastener tape on breast pocket flap, through pocket flap as per marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/16 inch from edges continuing on with an “X” stitched through the center of the square in one operation. The stitching must overlap three starting stitches at the end of the cycle. Sew two one inch squares of loop fastener tape on each breast pocket and pocket facings per marks on patterns. Stitch on all four sides 1/16 inch from edges continuing on with an “X” stitched through the center of the square in one operation. The stitching must overlap three starting stitches or back tack three stitches at the end of the cycle. Stitch type shall be 301, seam stitching type shall be LSbj-1, stitches per inch 10-14, thread needle shall be 50, and bobbin 50. See Figure 3.

3.6.4 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 26, 30 ligne of V-B-871. The buttons shall be a dull finish, 4-hole and shall be in accordance with the following button style:

The color of the button shall be a good match to Blue 3362. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lb when tested as specified in 4.4.4. When attached to the shirt, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 lb. (min) when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Buttons shall be attached with an X-stitch. See Figure 4.

3.6.5 Cloth, fusible, interlining pocket flaps and collar. The material for interlining the pocket flaps and collar of the shirt shall conform to bonding strength and type VI, class 3, adhesive dot application style B of MIL‑C‑44296.

3.6.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. Fuse a single layer of fusible interlining to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing, which can create differential shrinkage, and uneven bonding, shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. The temperature used in fusing shall not exceed 340°F and shall not cause an objectionable color change or staining of the basic fabric. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to ensure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time, cleanliness, and bonding strength. The fusing process will be controlled to assure that the fused plies of material show no sign of bubbling or delamination initially or after 3 launderings when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.7 Labels. The shirt shall contain two permanent labels as specified below. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, label attachment method shall last the expected life of the shirt.

3.7.1 USCG Exclusive Label. Each shirt shall have a woven exclusive label, cut single, fused edge, (style TBD at time of contract award). The information on the label includes the abbreviated size-length designation the top, followed by “Made Expressly for” with the USCG emblem woven in the center of the label. Below the label, the contractor’s name shall appear in (color TBD) letters. The exclusive label shall be placed at center back of the color and sewn in collar setting seam and stitched on all four sides. See Figure 5.

3.7.2 Shirt Combination Label. A separate combination label shall contain size, body measurements, identification, and care information as specified below. The label colors shall be (TBD at time of contract award). The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform. The combination label shall be located on the backside of the right chest pocket (as worn). Label shall be attached by stitching on all four sides with no indication of label application showing on the outside of the blouse.

Size. The size-length designation, body measurements and stock number shall be included on the combination label. Information for each size is specified in the “Size Measurement” Table II and shall be centered at the top of the label.

TABLE II. Size Measurements

ODD SIZES

Female

EVEN SIZES

Male and Female

Identification Label. The identification label shall contain the item description, contract number, fiber content information and contractor’s name.

Care/Instruction Label. The care/instruction label shall include the following information:

Shirt, Operational Dress USCG Blue 3362

1. Wear outside of trousers.

2. Adjust closures to ventilate and avoid overheating of body.

3. For best results secure fastener tape closures, then turn garment inside out before washing.

4. Machine washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water and mild detergent.

5. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

6.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

7. Dry at low heat (Do not exceed 130°F). After drying, tumble at room temperature for 10 minutes. Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on rust-proof hanger.

8. Do not commercially hot press. Light ironing if needed.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.8 Embroidery Files. The Coast Guard shall furnish embroidery files to manufacturer the Coast Guard shield. The embroidery yarns shall be as described in 3.6.2.5. The dimensions and placement of the Coast Guard shield shall be in accordance with Figure 6.

3.9 Seaming. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM

D-6193 stitch and seam types listed in Table III. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation, discomfort or poor appearance. To maintain durability and functionality, the seams shall be sewn with 12 - 14 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of ¼” backstitched or ½” overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 - 10 stitches per inch. To maintain durability and functionality, bartacks 3/8 to 5/8 inch in length with approximately 27 stitches are required at the specified reinforcement points. Buttonholes shall be eyelet end, tapered bar, 3/4 inch length with 52 - 56 stitches per inch. The buttonhole purling shall be between tab and flap plies and front facing and front plies, or on the outside of the shirt. All material edges shall be clean finished: edges shall be either turned-in, turned-under, or serged.

3.10. Alternate Seaming and Stitching. Seaming for set sleeves, side seams, set elbow patches, and button attachment shall use alternate B-50 combination thread as specified in 3.6.2.2 and 3.6.2.3.

TABLE III. Seam & Stitch types

Lsb-1

The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns, which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate procedures however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.12 List of pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for double needle seams. Buttonholes, pockets and pocket flaps shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns. The pattern list in Table IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts- First Quality

3.12.1 Parts cut from mill seconds. Table V lists the pattern parts which may be cut from mill seconds (see 3.5).

TABLE V. List of pattern parts that may be cut from seconds.

3.12.2 Configuration. The following specifics are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort, and durability in garrison use, combat, and operations other than war. End item garment construction and appearance shall conform to figures l through 6 and the finished dimensions (see 4.4.8) to maintain configuration and compliance to end item performance tests (see 4.4).

3.12.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Minor modifications to patterns to accommodate automation or to the methods used to the finished dimensions are acceptable.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANZI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Bond strength test. The interlining shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.1 when tested according to AATCC TM 136, paragraph 11.

4.4.2 Breaking strength and elongation test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.1 and 3.6.2.2 when tested according to ASTM D-2256.

4.4.3 Colorfastness test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.3 when tested according to AATCC TM 61, Test 3A (3 cycles).

4.4.4 Compressive strength test. The buttons shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.5 when tested for compressive strength using an apparatus which permits gradual application of the load either by a manual or automatic hydraulic mechanism. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel, and tested to failure. Failure is defined as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in the button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking).

4.4.5 Button pull test. The buttons attached to the shirt shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.5 when tested according to ASTM D-5034, except slide the button between the two upper 1 inch grips such that it rests on top of those grips that are separated by at least 3/8 inch. Using manually adjusted grips, place the button attachment stitching in the center of the bottom grips then lower the bottom grips such that they grab the basic material directly beneath the button stitching, not on the stitching itself.

4.4.6 Embroidery Yarns Testing. The embroidery shall meet the requirements specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI.

Colorfastness:

4.4.7 End item visual examination. The shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VII.

TABLE VII. End item visual defects

Shade variation within a part or between parts.

Buttons: missing, broken, defective, not attached as specified, or insecurely sewn.

Interlining: bubbling, delamination, bleed through, wrinkling, or puckering.

Shirt collar front points vary by more than 1/4 inch, collar curls, puckers, pleats, or twists.

Sleeve lengths vary by more than ½ inch. Cuff and cuff tab out of alignment with bottom folded edge of sleeve hem by more than 1/8 inch.

Odor, affecting appearance or serviceability.

4.4.8 Finished dimensions. The shirt shall conform to the dimensions listed below:

TABLE VIII. Finished dimensions

All measurements in inches.

EVEN SIZES

XX-SHORT

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in.

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

+ ¼ in.

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in.

BODY LENGTH

X-SHORT

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

SHORT

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

REGULAR

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

LONG

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in.

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

CUFF

+ ¼ in.

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in.

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

X-LONG

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

XX-LONG

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

ODD SIZES

SHORT

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

REGULAR

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

LONG

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

X-LONG

HALF CHEST

HALF WAIST

HALF SEAT

CUFF

SLV. LENGTH

BODY LENGTH

TABLE IX. Collar & pocket measurements

All measurements in inches.

Method of measuring - The shirt shall be placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

Half Chest - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across chest in line with pit of armhole.

Half Waist - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across shirt at narrowest depression.

Half Seat - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across shirt bottom hem.

Cuff - With sleeve laid flat, measure from folded edge to folded edge doubled.

Sleeve Length - Measure from center of back at undercollar setting seam, across shoulders and down sleeves to bottom edge of cuff.

Body length - Measure from center of back from undercollar setting seam to bottom edge of shirt.

Collar - Measure from collar seam along edge of collar to collar point

4.5 In process fusing maintenance and representative production tests.

TABLE V

Fusing press maintenance:

Representative production:

4.5.1 Pressure evenness and dwell time. Cut five strips, 8 inches in the warp direction by 2 inches in the filling direction, of outershell material and slightly smaller sized fusible interlining cloth material. Place each of the fusible strips, with the adhesive side down, on the top of the outershell material with the face side down and with a fusible starter strip. Arrange the five specimens on the fusing press conveyor belt along side each other in five different lanes, consisting of extreme left, middle left, center, middle right, and extreme right. For head press equipment, place a specimen in each corner and one in the middle. Run the specimens through the fusing press and using a stopwatch, mark the time elapsed between the time the leading edge of one of the specimens comes under pressure contact and the time it is released from the pressure contact. Remove the strips from the fusing machine when adequately cooled, cut fused outershell/fusible laminate to 1 inch in the filling direction, and perform the bonding test in 4.4.1 on all five specimens. The dwell time should be consistent with the machine speed ratings. The fusible manufacturers recommended range and all five specimens should meet the minimum initial requirement for bond strength. Any variations shall be investigated for cause, corrections made, and the testing process repeated.

4.5.2 Laundered appearance and bonding strength. For testing, prepare an 8 inch in the warp by an 11 inch in the filling, outershell material specimen representative of each 1000 unit production end item lot. Prepare a slightly smaller sized fusible interlining cloth specimen and fuse in accordance with 4.5.1. Launder the fused sample three times in accordance with MIL-C-44296 requirements, except launder for a minimum of 10 minutes and do not condition to equilibrium under standard conditions. Examine the test.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department's System Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Shirt

Clothing

Operational Dress Uniform (ODU)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians:

Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO

USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

Figure 1.

Figure 2. Sleeve and cuff construction

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

Figure 5.

Figure 6.

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