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National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior
Gathering On The Rim People Build a Park
By Dr. Jadelyn J. Moniz Nakamura
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park Occasional Papers Volume 1, Number 2, Fall 2010
Celebrating Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park’s Centennial Anniversary | 1916–2016
H
AW
AI‘I V
OLCANO
EsNATIONAL PARK and biosphere reserve
A W orld Heritage site
Attachment AD
Gathering On The Rim
National Park Service 1
Image Inside Cover: Copy of 1921 map depicting Kïlauea Caldera, Hawaii National Park.
Photo Right: Kïlauea Volcano eruption in the early 20th century. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Hawaii National Park Hawaii National Park (HNP) was established in 1916 as the fifteenth park in the National Park Service system. Hawaii National Park was formed by the efforts of ordinary citizens who pushed for and sought the recognition of Kīlauea, Mauna Loa and Haleakalā as having national significance. The inclusion of these areas into a national park led to the protection of unique natural and cultural resources, and the promotion of scientific study of volcanoes. Although the park was established in 1916, it wasn’t until 1921 that the official dedication took place. And, it was not until 1922 that the first superintendent was assigned to the park, and on-the-ground management began.
Even after active management by the park service began, federal funding for projects, programs, and facilities were limited. The new park still had to rely on the local government, other federal agencies, and philanthropic organizations to fund basic park operations and infrastructure. This trend of relying on outside help was not a new one to Hawaii National Park. Even before the park was established, public groups and private individuals worked to enhance and develop the Kīlauea area for scientific, conservation, and recreational purposes.
Pre Park Development
Kīlauea’s popularity with western visitors began very early on in the historic period of the Hawaiian Islands. The first written reference to the volcano at Kīlauea dates to 1794, and is found in the journal of Archibald Menzies, the naturalist on board Captain George Vancouver’s ship the Discovery. Missionaries from the London Mission Society followed Menzies’ visit to Kīlauea in 1823. Included in this group were the Reverends Asa Thurston and William Ellis. Ellis, one of the first Euro-Americans to witness a volcanic
2 Gathering On The Rim eruption in Hawai‘i, described Kilauea in detail in his journal which was later published. His words and descriptions opened the world to this special place.1 Following Ellis, until approximately 1845, there came a flood of other missionaries, scientists, and American military personnel who came to the volcano either to Christianize the local inhabitants, to study the volcano, or to explore its natural surroundings.
After 1845, visitors to Kīlauea were primarily interested in pleasure tours to the volcanic landscape. They marveled at the breathtaking scenery, and were less interested in systematic study than they were in casual observation.2 As a result of the increasing popularity of the area, there came a need for places to house these visitors as well as roads and trails to facilitate travel.
Although ancient Hawaiian trails did exist throughout the Kīlauea region, the advent of vehicular travel in the form of horse and buggy, albeit crude, put additional strain and demand on the existing trail systems. It was soon apparent that improved roads, trails and lodging were much needed to help insure access to the area by residents and non-residents. Community leaders such as Lorrin A. Thurston, who was a key force in the push to create Hawaii National Park, was especially concerned with making the area available and open to all visitors3. In a paper written to promote his idea for a National Park, Thurston stressed the fact that much of the area proposed for a park was on private property, that a toll of $1.00 was once charged to access the only road to the lava lake, and that many areas of interest were either inaccessible or unknown to the public.4
Photo Top: Visitors to Kilauea searing postcards in hot lava. Image Courtesy of National Park Service, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Lodging—Power of the People
Kīlauea was, and continues to be, a considerable distance from the closest population centers (30 miles from Hilo to the east and 90 miles from Kona to the west). In the early historic period, such a long distance for traveling required most to stay overnight. Very early on there was a need for housing at the caldera.
Development of lodging for visitors to Kīlauea, even prior to the creation of Hawaii National Park, had been a private effort by local citizens. The very earliest travelers to the volcano erected improvised shelters from available fern fronds, grass and other local materials.5 These shelters were temporary—usually lasting for only a single visit, and they were not very comfortable. In 1844, a report in the Polynesian stated that a local Hawaiian had constructed a grass hut on the edge of the crater and was providing food and other conveniences to travelers.6 The first formal lodging to be built at Kīlauea was a grass house constructed in 1846 by Benjamin Pitman. The hut was built on the north-east side of the crater and became known as the first Volcano House. The building was crude, with a mat covering the single room, earthen floor. At a dollar a head, visitors could purchase fowl for 37.5 cents, a hen turkey for 62.5 cents and a small calabash of potatoes for 25 cents.7
Despite having constructed the Volcano House for visitors to Kīlauea, Pitman apparently did not actively manage the facility. Charles Hitchcock reported in 1856 that the lodging was there, but there was no one around—not even a manager. In 1866 a second formal lodge was built by J.L. Richardson & Co.
Also called the Volcano House, it too was made of grass, but was apparently much more comfortable
National Park Service 3 and impressive. Thus began the start of a succession of visitor accommodations with various iterations of Volcano Houses being built through time (the third in 1877, a large addition to that in 1891, and finally a new Volcano House in 1941 after the 1891 addition burned down).
Kīlauea was popular amongst military personnel as well as the general public. In 1915, lodging specific for members of the military was proposed by L.A.
Thurston. Known as the Kilauea Military Camp (KMC), the facility was developed as a recreational center for regular Army members serving in the territory, and as a maneuvering ground for the Hawaii National Guard.8 Much like the development of hotels in the area, KMC also started as a grass roots effort by local citizens to develop and fund the facility. Thurston was able to raise $24,000 of public subscription for the construction of buildings and other improvements for KMC. Fifty acres of land was leased from the
Bishop Estate, and the facility was run by a Board of Trustees (comprised of Thurston and four others).9 KMC opened in the fall of 1916 – the same year Hawaii National Park was established by Congress. In 1920 the Bishop Estate deeded the land under KMC to the Territory of Hawai‘i. On June 28, 1921 the territory deeded the land to the United States Government as part of Hawaii National Park.10 It continues to be run today as a recreational facility for military members, retirees and their families.
"Having visited Kilauea in the days when the old shed with its open door and hole in the centre, for a fireplace, were all the accomodation for poor weary travellers; how great is our appreciation and admiration of the present delightful dwelling which well deserves the name of hotel."
—M.A. Chamberlain, 1866 Volcano House Register
"This is the best hotel in the Kingdom."
—J.M. Nelson, 1882 Volcano House Register
"After travelling over half the civilized and uncivilized world I can congratu-late Mr. Shipman on having a house of accommodation that is not surpassed or equalled for its excellence (excepting pens) by any other that I have visited at such a distance from any town."
—Tom Southwick, 1884 Volcano House Register
Photo Right: Volcano House, 1860.
HAVO Image 4781, Bernice P.
Bishop Museum.
Transportation—Local and National Government Action
Unlike the business development of lodging at Kīlauea, the earliest mechanized road and trail development in Volcano was sponsored by the local government. For the Territory of Hawai‘i, roads served as an integral part of its infrastructure. They supported the transportation
4 Gathering On The Rim needs of the resident population as well as enhanced the visitor experience to the islands. Construction of a “modern” road at Kīlauea began in 1911, with a road from the Volcano House to Halema‘uma‘u. The road was built via Kīlauea Iki crater by local prisoners.
The prisoners were housed in an area called the Old Summer Camp built especially to house them.11 Once the Volcano House to Halema‘uma‘u road was completed, the same group of prisoners turned their efforts to building a trail along the route of what is now the Chain of Craters Road. Called Cocketts Trail, after the construction supervisor, the trail ended at Devils Throat.12 Finally, the prisoners reconstructed an existing trail across the floor of Kīlauea. The trail provided another link between the Volcano House and Halema‘uma‘u.
The third local government sponsored effort to improve the Kīlauea infrastructure occurred in 1915 with the construction of a road leading from what is now known as Nāmakanipaio Campground to the town of Ka‘ū. This road was also built by local prisoners who camped in tents near Nāmakani in an area known as the “Old Prison Camp.”13 Also in 1915, the Army, local government, and the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association (see below) contributed funds and personnel to build a trail linking Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. The funding also provided for the construction of a rest shelter, water tank, and stable at the 10,000 foot level at a place called Red Hill.14 The trail and shelter ideas were conceived by L.A. Thurston, strongly supported by Thomas Jaggar, and built by soldiers from the US Army’s twenty-fifth infantry division. These men were part of the famous Buffalo Soldiers—a group of African American soldiers who were stationed at Schofield Barracks on Oahu.
By 1911, the funding for construction of roads and trails provided by the territorial government and the County of Hawai‘i had reached $100,000.15 This spending was a considerable amount of money for that time period (equivalent to $2.2 million in 2010).
“Work was renewed on the remaining portion of the Volcano Road at Keawaanakaaha in Olaa on August 13, 1891.
The work is principally to be done by prison labor, with an additional expenditure of about one thousand dollars a month. Nine miles of road must be built before a connection is made with the old trail at the cattle pen—from which point it is six and a half miles to the Volcano House.”
—Wm. N. Bruner, Honolulu, 14-16 Aug 1891 Volcano House Register
Photo Top: 19th-20th century image of travelers. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Hawaiian Volcano Research Association (Science and Research)
While most of the visitors to Kīlauea were drawn to its scenery and landscape, the geologic forces which were the source of this beauty also drew in scientists and researchers interested in studying active volcanism.
Although there was an obvious need for improved roads and trails throughout the area, Kīlauea volcano was popular with scientists and researchers because of the relative ease of accessing the site. Like the development of infrastructure, efforts to fund research at Kīlauea were largely driven by private citizens. These individuals banded together and formed associations to fund visiting scientists and paid for equipment and research facilities.
Interest in the geology of the area was far reaching.
Researchers from the mainland United States who traveled world-wide, found Kīlauea to be a great place to study active volcanoes. The most famous of these researchers was Thomas Jaggar. Jaggar, a scientist with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), traveled to Hawai‘i and visited Kīlauea in 1909 on his way to Japan. On this trip, Jaggar suggested that an observatory should be built at Kīlauea to continuously study the volcano.16
National Park Service 5
Lorrin A. Thurston took up Jaggar’s suggestion, and in 1911 established the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association (HVRA). Thurston became its first Director. An all volunteer organization, funding for HVRA sponsored research projects and facilities, was raised through subscription. The HVRA had four main goals. The first was to promote systematic and continuous observation of volcanoes and earthquakes, the second to record and publish those observations, the third was to host individuals and organizations conducting scientific investigations, and the fourth goal was to promote the establishment of like areas across the Pacific.17
Within a year, the association established an observatory with funding from local citizens and instruments loaned from the local college.18 Other projects accomplished by the association included assistance to complete the trail to Mauna Loa and facilities at Red Hill.
In 1919, the association also funded a project to measure the rise and fall of lava in Halema‘uma‘u every fifteen minutes for four consecutive weeks. They paid for two trips by Jaggar to Washington to promote the creation of Hawaii National Park and enlisted the support and participation of the US Government through the Weather Bureau to maintain the observatory at Kīlauea.19
In its first ten years of existence (1911–1921), the Hawaiian Volcano Research Association spent $61,000 on projects at Kīlauea. The largest percentage of this funding was raised through private subscription and membership ($55,000), the remaining was provided by
MIT ($6,000).20
Photo Right: Kïlauea Volcano, 1908.
Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
6 Gathering On The Rim
Post Park Development
All of the pre-1916 infrastructure development at Kīlauea was critically important to the growth of Hawaii National Park. Even after it became a park, the federal government did not provide substantial funding for a number of years. The little funding that was provided in the early years went towards the purchase of land. After 1921, the meager appropriations provided to the park were used for the upkeep of existing roads rather than for the development of new facilities. In debating the creation of the park, Congress was keen on not committing to something that was going to be a financial burden on taxpayers. In the records of the Hearing before the Committee on Public Lands, Congressman Taylor specifically questioned Jaggar as to whether it was going to be an
“…obligation upon the Government to buy, at possibly exorbitant prices, these private holdings within the proposed park, in order to make the park conveniently accessible and of the highest use.”
In an effort to control spending for the new park, Congress capped the annual appropriations for Hawaii National Park at $10,000 a year. The total amount appropriated was not received until 1922 (eight years after the park was established). In 1919 and 1920 only $750 was provided to the park by the federal government.
Just slightly more ($1,000) was appropriated in 1921, but only a fraction was spent ($62.49). None of the funding was used for park management or improvement of infrastructure. Instead, the money was used to purchase private lands included in the designated park boundary. The law establishing Hawaii National Park specifically prohibited Congress from appropriating funds for the park other than for the acquisition of land that would provide easements and rights of ways over private lands which would allow for the park to be “reasonably accessible in all of its parts.”21
Hawaii National Park was finally able to begin significant management of its resources in 1922. Not only did Congress appropriate the total fundable amount for the park ($10,000), official staffing of the park also began. From 1916 to 1921, Hawaii National Park was overseen by B.G. Rivenburgh, the Territorial Land Commissioner who also functioned as the NPS representative.22 For the first three months of 1922, A.O. Burkland was assigned as the acting superintendent. Following Burkland, in April 1922, Thomas R. Boles was made superintendent and became the first federal official to begin administration of Hawaii National Park.23
Private Citizens to the Rescue
The $10,000 appropriation provided by Congress in 1922 was used solely for basic services—providing visitor access to existing roads and trails, and building the first administrative offices for park staff. This funding was meant to cover a park that encompassed 187 square miles (119,679 acres) across two islands.
The annual reports for 1922–1924 provided by park superintendent Thomas Boles repeatedly stressed the overwhelming needs of the park, and asked for the funding limit to be raised.24 Without an increase in federal funds, the park continued to rely on private individuals and groups to raise money for basic services and amenities for visitors. In 1922, for example, the local Honolulu newspaper printed thousands of maps for hikers at no cost to the park.25
Between 1921 and 1924 visitation to the park increased by 31% from 16,071 in 1921 to 52,210 in 1924.26 Despite its popularity, the newly established Hawaii National Park was not able to provide any housing facilities for its staff, let alone its visitors. Thus, it was left to private enterprise to fill this much needed gap. Kīlauea Volcano House Company filled the void when they began establishment of a Summer Camp in 1924. The proposed camp would consist of enough cottages to house 40 people, a main building for serving meals, and a road to access the site. There was a lot of interest in using the Camp. Even before it was built, over 100 applications to use the facilities had been received.
Most of these came from teachers and the Girl Scouts.27
National Park Service 7
Photo Top Left: Photo of the Summer Camp in 1959 after Kïlauea Iki eruption destroyed the site. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Image Top Right: Seal of Hui O Pele.
Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Establishment of Hui O Pele
Community members recognized the need, and realized the potential, to raise funds for basic services and facilities for the new park. In 1922, C.C. Moore who was the head of a San Francisco engineering company and president of the Pan-Pacific Exposition visited the Kīlauea section of the park. He was completely awed by the beauty of the area and the interesting features he saw. Moore commented on the new park at a luncheon of the Honolulu Ad Club on May 3, 1922 in which he was the guest of honor. During his remarks to the club he proposed the idea of providing visitors to Kīlauea Volcano with a certificate, signed by a park official, which would be proof of their visit. Moore said:
“Fancy what a membership in such an organization would mean in publicity. In our party alone there were representatives of twenty States. This would get your visitors organized where they would do the most good. Then when you ask for an appropriation from Congress you would have support from every State in the Union.”28
Moore immediately donated $100 to help defray the cost of setting up such a program and asked then
Governor of Hawai‘i, Wallace R. Farrington to support the plan. Farrington assigned George Mellen, editor of the Honolulu Ad Club’s weekly newspaper Welakahao, to work on the details.29 The group adopted the name “Hui O Pele” because they wanted the name to be “entirely Hawaiian” and they felt that “Pele, goddess of volcanoes, and Hawai‘i, the territory, had enjoyed considerable publicity.”30 After some delay in selecting an emblem, the chairman of the Hui designed it, and the committee unanimously approved it.
Each new member in the Hui was given a certificate that stated that the individual had visited the volcano Kīlauea, had made an acceptable offering to Pele, and was therefore granted a lifetime membership for one dollar ($1). To top it off, the certificate was seared, and “sealed with fire by the Goddess Pele.”
Members were also given a button bearing the newly designed black and red emblem. A limited number of 200 Charter memberships available for ten dollars ($10) were offered. Regular lifetime members were not required to pay any dues beyond the original one dollar fee for joining.
At the outset of the organization, the committee decided that the first ten of the 200 charter memberships would
8 Gathering On The Rim go to distinguished persons. To be considered in this category, the individual had to have played a key role in either furthering the work of the organization or they had to be associated with volcanology. To broaden membership in the Hui even further, the organizers decided to extend membership to those who had previously visited Kīlauea. To gain membership all one had to do was provide some sort of proof that they had been to the volcano. Numerous applicants sent in their claims “verified by hotel registers, steamship passenger lists or other references.”31
The committee completed their work and turned over control to the Honolulu Ad Club which would keep the funds and management of the Hui separate from its other duties. All funds were solely for operating the Hui and for projects that promoted the interest in Kīlauea and the “environs within the National Park.”32 Hui O Pele began as an official organization in February 1923, and a year and a half later membership had reached 1,024.
Photo Right: The Sierra Club at Halema‘uma‘u in 1927. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Hui Funding Begins—Defining the Goals
Hui O Pele began funding projects in the park in 1927, when they constructed shelters for visitors at Kīlauea. The shelters were located at key, popular locations including Thurston Lava Tube, on the east side of Pauahi Crater where the Chain of Craters road crossed Keauhou Road, and at Halema‘uma‘u Trail.33 The shelters would provide a dry shaded location for visitors to rest. The original idea and design was submitted by Hui member L.W. de Vis-Norton. The final design was developed by Thomas Vint, the National Park Service’s Chief Landscape Engineer.
The shelters were all lava masonry structures with double benches and iron roofs. The iron roofs were necessary to catch rain water which drained into three barrels that were attached to the buildings. The water would be used for drinking by visitors to the area.34 The park service provided the man power to construct the donated shelters. A total of 55 man-days were expended by the National Park Service to erect these
National Park Service 9 shelters—more days than was spent on improving the parks roads for that year.35
Following the successful construction of the first three shelters, HNP Superintendent Evans requested an additional $800 from the Hui to build two lava benches and a larger shelter in May 1928.36 Soon after Evans made his request, he was replaced by Thomas J. Allen Jr. The park’s 1928 request sparked a period of conflict between the Hui and the new park superintendent. Hui Chairman de Vis-Norton supported the construction of additional shelters in the park, but he strongly discouraged anything being built on the rim of Halemaumau. He felt that if shelters were built on the rim, there was potential for “hoodlums” to break apart the seats during eruptive periods just to throw them into the lava lake. He was also concerned with the tendency for rim collapse along Halema‘uma‘u when it was not erupting.37 Instead, he encouraged the park to develop ways to raise more funds for the Hui. He suggested an “initiation ceremony into Hui o Pele” or “some sort of Hawaiian Pageant, such as (a re-enactment of the 1824) defiance of Pele by Princess Kapiolani.”38 He also suggested that the steamship companies add a dollar to their fare which could go towards a membership in the Hui. He wanted the additional monies made from the steamship companies to pay for a brass sundial that Kamehameha Schools wanted to erect on the terrace in front of the Uwēkahuna Museum.39
Allen supported the idea of a “pageant” at the rim, but did not support the selling of memberships on the steamships and stated that the sundial design needed the approval of the park service’s landscape department.40 De Vis-Norton stated that the Museum had been built by “public subscription” and he did not think the donors had meant to donate the building to the United States Government.41 He also took the opportunity to school the new superintendent in the culturally appropriate position of the park service at Hawaii National Park. He was reacting to the re-establishment of the “19th hole” along the rim of the crater. Hitting golf balls into the crater was a popular stunt for park visitors. After the first tee collapsed into the Caldera, de Vis Norton strongly opposed the re-establishment of a new site. He pointed out the sacredness of the area to the Native Hawaiian people when he wrote:
“Most of the Hawaiians have a sincere reverence for Halemaumau. To them the place is sacred – and they regard the stunt of pluggin golf balls into Pele’s abode much as you would view a game of craps played on the grave of the Unknown Soldier at Arlington. To me, it is sacrilege of the worst kind and I sympathize sincerely with their inner feeling that white men should at least respect their age-old beliefs.
You can do a lot of good by saying a good word for the Hawaiians now and again. After all, it was their country until we grabbed it, and while they parforce, must accept the situation – they are very ready to appreciate a friendly feeling among those who now rule over them, and respond with real affection to any evidence of love for their race.”42
Future correspondence between Superintendent Allen and the Hui continued to show a disagreement over projects the organization was established to support.
Photo Right: Visitors at the ‘‘19th Hole’’ on the edge of Halema‘uma‘u in 1927.
10 Gathering On The Rim
Like his predecessors, Allen held a very Kīlauea-centric focus, and requested funding for projects within that region. Influential members of the Hui, however, were pushing to construct rest shelters at Mauna Loa and Haleakalā. Allen felt these shelters would be too expensive to build, and he pushed for and got a new shelter built in 1930 at the end of Hilina Pali Road.
The correspondence between the park and the Hui throughout 1930 focused primarily on discussions over the construction of a lecture hall addition to the Uwēkahuna Observatory. There was much disagreement on the cost of the facility. The Hui feared going into debt by committing to a project they did not have the funds for.43 The superintendent assured the Hui that the cost would be covered by additional memberships as well as by his own personal involvement in constructing the facility.44 By the end of 1930, the facility was built for $3,736.98 ($663.02 less than the $4,400 estimate).45
Photo Right: Hilina Pali Shelter built by funds from Hui O Pele. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
The 1930’s—Troubled Times
Despite the early donation of funds for the lecture hall and shelter at Hilina Pali, the 1930’s were lean years for the Hui. The Great Depression and a lack of activity at Kīlauea Caldera struck a one-two punch on park visitation. The decline in visitors led to a decrease in the sale of Hui certificates. While the Hui could do nothing about inducing Kīlauea to continue erupting, others tried. In February 1931, an old Hawaiian woman (her age is given as 100) along with eight members of her family were at Halema‘uma‘u daily “trying to induce Madame Pele to return to the Halema‘uma‘u fire pit.”46
Because of the funding challenges faced by the Hui, two issues emerged in the 1930’s that would continue to come up throughout the life of the organization.
The first was a question of how to increase and expand membership sales, and the second issue was what the appropriate venues for selling certificates were. Two ideas were suggested. One was to sell them at the Volcano House, and the second was to have drivers sell them to the visitors they brought to the park. The first idea went over well, but the second was considered too tacky and after a trial run was abandoned for lack of vigorous sales.47 Lamenting the nature of tourism in the islands, Hui Chairman de Vis-Norton continued to push the park to look for creative ways to sell memberships. He was reminded, however, by the new superintendent, Ernest P. Leavitt, of the park’s policy of not making active solicitations.48
Trouble for the Hui extended beyond the issue of raising funds. During this period, the Hui was embroiled in a scandal involving accusations of inappropriate use of Hui funds by then President P.L. Murphy. The conflict led Superintendent Leavitt to suggest, for the first time, that a Natural History Association (called the Hawai‘i Natural History Association [HNHA]) take over the remaining funds and tasks of the Hui. If none of these ideas worked, Leavitt was ready to have the organization barred by executive order from collecting funds in the park. All of the ideas for disassociating the park with Hui O Pele, however, were ultimately put aside with the resignation of Murphy and the vote in 1934 by the Outdoor Circle of Honolulu (OCH) to accept the custodianship of Hui O Pele.
National Park Service 11
The Hui Under New Leadership
By-laws proposed by the Outdoor Circle in November 1934 stated that the Hui funds would go towards “projects involving improvements made within the national parks of Hawai‘i, for the benefit of visitors.”49 Edward Wingate, who had become Hawaii National Park Superintendent in 1933, proposed that Hui funds be expanded to include “museum collections, (and) rare books of historical or scientific nature.”50 Wingate felt that at some point, all of the necessary buildings in the park would be erected and that the park service would no longer allow any more to be built.51 This proposal would result in the Hui supporting similar projects as the newly formed HNHA (see discussion below).
Despite the turmoil and economic challenges endured by the Hui in the first half of the 1930’s, some significant progress in park development was made.
The group was able to raise $700 to purchase 120 chairs for the new Lecture Hall at the Uwēkahuna Observatory in 1931, and a few years later they donated $2,500 for the construction of a rest house at the summit of Mauna Loa. 52
As of January 1936, all seemed to be running smoothly under the Outdoor Circle’s care. With funds well over $1,000, Wingate was asked what new projects were needed for the park. While he had a long list (shelters at the picnic grounds, trailside museum at Bird Park, shelters at Makaopuhi and Napau craters, drinking water along trails, a new rest house at Red Hill), he cautioned against spending any more money for the time being, because he had heard rumors that there would be cutbacks in Federal appropriations in the coming years.
It is not clear if any projects were approved between 1937 and September 1939 because the park records for Hui O Pele are empty. The records from 1939 to 1941 are also very sparse, but it is known that several of the original members re-wrote and adopted new by-laws.
The by-laws reflected Superintendent Wingate’s desire to expand the purpose of the group and to use Hui O Pele funds to equip park buildings with “furniture, instruments, books, [and] museum displays.53”
There are no correspondence records for Hui O Pele between 1941 and November 1947. During World War II, the park was nearly taken over by the military, and hysteria over possible enemy invasion abounded. A few letters of correspondence were found for December 1947, and a single letter was found for 1948. The former discussed a $100 purchase of rare 16mm black and white film footage of Kīlauea lake activity during 1918-1919, the steam explosions of 1924, and the Halemaumau 1931 eruption. This was the first time Hui funds were used to purchase eruption films.
Image Top Right: 1931 Hui O Pele Certificate. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Park Partners Build A Museum
The correspondence records pick up again in January 1949, when members discuss using a substantial amount
12 Gathering On The Rim
($7,000) of Hui funds towards the development of a museum for the park. The National Park envisioned the museum as an outdoor representation of the natural environment. Its purpose was to explain to the public what there was to see and do in the park; it was not to simply be a display of static specimens. The museum would highlight the volcanology, geology, ethnology, and history of the park. The Hui purchased a Selectoslide in 1949 for use in the new museum. The machine would automatically project slides of scenes and places of interest in the park. This purchase was clearly a departure from past expenditures approved by the Hui, but also recognition that park needs were evolving from an emphasis on infrastructure to one that required more interpretive tools to reach the public.
To afford such a large-scale project as the new museum, the Hui felt they needed to more widely promote the group to gain additional memberships. The Hui purchased framed certificates as advertisements, and also expanded its reach by allowing the Hawaii Visitors’
Bureau to sell Hui memberships. These fundraising efforts helped Hui O Pele pass a landmark point in 1949, when it recorded its 30,000th member after little over a quarter century of existence.
Thanks to the Hui, work on the new museum in what is now the park headquarters building and visitor center finally began in 1950, with the arrival of Paul Rockwood, National Park Service Museum Technician.
Unfortunately, just as the project seemed to be getting off the ground, there was some concern as to whether or not the government was going to be able to fund the remaining portion. Because of the on-going Korean War, all non-defense agency activities were being cut in 1950 and 1951.54 Superintendent Oberhansley wanted every dollar in the Hui account to be reserved for the museum project. The Hui, however, found it difficult to raise additional funds through new memberships, because of the on-going Korean conflict.55 KMC was nearly closed, and no certificates were being sold at their desk. Also, a long shipping strike in 1950
Photo Right: Museum Dedication.
May 28, 1953. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
National Park Service 13 resulted in reduced travel to Hawaii National Park.
Hui members again began to push more aggressively for new members. They decided to extend their reach by approving the sale of Hui O Pele certificates at the Moana Camera and Gift Shop, and to replace the Hui O Pele pins with membership cards, which were more cost effective to produce.
Photo Right: Late 19th–early 20th century photo of visitors. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
HNHA Steps Up—Slowly
Just as Hui O Pele struggled to increase its membership, the organization received its biggest boost when the Hawai‘i Natural History Association (HNHA) became an active partner in 1950 by selling and managing the revenue from Hui O Pele certificates. The Natural History Association was established on March 25, 1931.
By 1933 a “small informal association” was already functioning in Hawaii National Park.56 HNHA’s first president, Mr. John E. Doerr, Jr., was elected on November 13, 1933. In its early years, the majority of HNHA funds came from extension course fees taught by Mr. Doerr, who donated the money to HNHA.
Doerr preffered this method of raising funds because he strongly believed HNHA should not compete with other existing organizations.57
Unlike Hui O Pele, HNHA took several decades to raise enough funds for donation to the park. In the first few years of its existence, the little money HNHA spent went towards paying for phone bills, and purchasing office supplies and equipment. In 1936, HNHA voted to start a park library, and thus began the long tradition of purchasing books to stock the library shelves.58 In 1940, because of its relative inactivity, HNHA was reorganized as a nonprofit scientific and historical society cooperating in educational work in the park.
The reorganization, spearheaded by Superintendent Edward Wingate, was done as an attempt to stimulate the group. Although several meetings were held over the next year, little was done outside of expanding the park library through book purchase and donations, completing the new constitution, and discussing strategies and possible templates for publications.
Just as the newly re-organized group was getting underway, World War II broke out. Like Hui O Pele, the onset of the war impacted the membership and activities of the organization. The last meeting of HNHA prior to the war was held on October, 1941 with no other meetings occurring until January 6, 1945. By January 1946, the Association was beginning to make some money through book sales, one dollar annual membership dues, and eruption film sales.59
By 1948, book and movie sales were going so well, that the Association members voted to do away with the annual $1 dues. The initial membership fee of $1 was maintained, however, and the association expanded its sales items to include a park map. By the following year, HNHA’s account had exceeded $2,000. Not only was HNHA raising funds for park projects, but Superintendent Oberhansley also believed that the Association could solve many of the parks publication problems. Prior to the creation of natural history associations, parks had to obtain sale literature through the Government Printing Office. All of the funds made from these sales went directly into the federal treasury and not to the individual parks. With the association, however, the parks could keep the profits and use it for projects that were not part of the general appropriations. Oberhansley felt strongly that the funds derived through the HNHA only be used for those projects that would not, or could not, be funded by the government.60
14 Gathering On The Rim
Image Top Right: Hawai‘i Natural History Association seal. Image courtesy of Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.
A Time of Challenge and Triumph
By 1950 HNHA was beginning to hit its stride. It was great timing, as the Hui was struggling to increase its membership and to keep up with the parks increasing requests for funding, especially for its large museum project. By assisting the Hui with certificate sales, the HNHA leadership felt they were helping to promote tourism and thus their sales would benefit as well. By 1950, the association was responsible for selling more than half of the Hui memberships for that year, and they provided much needed advertisement for the Hui on the back of their Trailside Plants pamphlet.61
With KMC nearly closed during the Korean War, and the federal government backing out on its commitment to fund the new museum, the help from HNHA was needed. In 1951, HNHA partnered with the Park and Hui O Pele to finish building the museum at Kīlauea.
The association felt that since one of their primary objectives was to “further museum development” they should lend as much financial support for the new project as possible.62 Working together, the Hui was able to focus on raising additional funds through new memberships, while HNHA assisted with advertisement and managing sales.
To further expand membership, the Hui began to sell certificates to those who either flew over an active flow, or who had seen an eruption even if it was flowing outside of the park (Mauna Loa was erupting and moving towards Kona in 1950). Adoption of this policy was a drastic change from the original intent of the Hui, which was to encourage members to have physically visited the park.
HNHA was also entering new areas of sales to raise the funds needed for the new museum. After seventeen years in existence, the Association finally printed its first publication—the “Self-Guided Map to Hawaii National Park.”63 The publication was the first in a long list of publications that HNHA would become involved in.
Although it was a challenging year for fundraising, 1951 saw the completion and installation of three museum exhibits, which remained the top priority for the park. After the initial exhibits were completed, the Superintendent wanted to keep Paul Rockwood at the park to continue work, but he needed funds to pay Rockwood’s salary. He asked the Hui to make another $2,500 immediately available for the project with an addition $4,000 donated by the end of the year. The additional funding was approved by the Hui, but it came with an important stipulation. The Hui leadership requested that the federal government appropriate at least an equal amount to the museum project as they had. This was not to be, because in 1952 the superintendent received a letter from the regional director stating that the park should not “count too definitely on additional funds from the regional allotment for museum exhibit construction” and that there was “no assurance that such funds” would be “made available.” The superintendent was reminded that the annual allotment for museum exhibits for each region was less than $10,000 and that several parks in the region had yet to benefit from the funding.64
The letter from the regional director must have been a disappointment to the park. However, it appears from the correspondence that the superintendent never passed on the contents of the director’s letter to the leadership of Hui O Pele. Oberhansley continued to request additional funding from the Hui, and a month after receiving the regional director’s bad news, the Hui
National Park Service 15 transferred an additional $2,000 to the Hawaii National Park Museum to complete four more museum units. By the middle of 1952, a total of $12,000 had been committed by Hui O Pele to the museum. This amounted to nearly half of the projected total cost for the new facility.
More funding was still needed to complete the Museum, and the park continued to rely on the Hui and HNHA to cover the expenses. An opportunity to greatly increase Hui O Pele membership arose at midnight June 27th, 1952, when an eruption of Kīlauea Caldera began. Within two weeks, 125,000 visitors flocked to the park to see the show. Unfortunately, the realities of an active lava flow within the park got in the way of signing up new members. The park interpretive staff was stretched thin dealing with the large influx of visitors, and they did not have the time or resources to devote to selling more than 20–40 new memberships per day. In addition, after the first few weeks the park noted a decrease in the daytime visitations, and an increase in visitors who wanted to view the eruption in darkness. The night conditions made it difficult for park staff to contact visitors and write out certificates. The Volcano House, the perfect place to sell certificates, was also overwhelmed with a large influx and overload of guests.65 Ideas of putting out a booth closer to the eruption site was dismissed by the superintendent, who felt that such structures would be obtrusive and that people would feel too pressured to sign up.66
Regardless of these challenges, 1952 was a record year for Hui membership sales, in large part thanks to the eruption and HNHA, which took charge of organizing and managing it.67 The following years saw even greater improvement when HNHA expanded its sales reach by issuing certificates at the Kona Inn.68 That year, with a final influx of $1,828.23 of Hui O Pele funds, $3,500 from the Hawai‘i Natural History Association, and $1,750 of appropriated funds, all of the museum exhibits were completed. One void remained to be filled—a diorama depicting a “typical Hawaiian Village.” The diorama was estimated to cost $10,000. The park naturalist felt that at least half of that could be covered easily by the Hawai‘i Natural History Association, and it was hoped the other half would be paid for by Hui O Pele.69
With the exhibits for the new museum at Hawaii National Park completed, the park planned a live dedication ceremony over the Hawaii Calls radio program to celebrate70. The program would include Hawaiian music (“ancient songs”), and legends of the volcano. To cap off the event, Hui O Pele would award an honorary lifetime membership to “Uncle George” Lycurgus, the host of the Volcano House.
The program aired on May 23, 1953 and was broadcast over 700 stations of the Mutual Broadcasting System.
It was believed that the broadcast reached an audience of between 40 and 50 million people. The show was an excellent advertisement for the park, and the Hui, which celebrated its 30th anniversary that year. After thirty years of dedicated service to Hawaii National Park, the Hui counted 40,000 lifetime members— the 40,000th membership went to Harry S. Truman, President of the United States.71
Photo Top: Visitors at Thurston Lava Tube in 1928. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Photo Right: 1952 Eruption, small fountaining beginning. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Cooperative Efforts Continue on Projects Large and Small
With the park depending on their philanthropic organizations to support projects both large and small, it was obvious that additional funding efforts would be needed. The Hui and the park superintendent felt that to reach their funding goals, they had to look for a stronger more active organization to sponsor their group.
16 Gathering On The Rim
They repeatedly pushed to sign up new local members, as Hui President Charles Frazier felt that “every man, woman and child in Hilo and the island of Hawai‘i should hold a card of membership in the hui.”72 They hoped that the Hilo Junior Chamber of Commerce, their new sponsor, would be able to provide that local support they had long sought. 73
Perhaps the Hui was looking too far beyond the park boundaries, as their greatest financial support during this period came from HNHA. Both groups continued to cooperate, and were a mutual benefit to each other. In 1954, HNHA adopted a new constitution and their financial affairs were sound.
The group continued to purchase books for the library, and to stock their sales shelves with guides, books, and volcano movies for sale to the public.
They also expanded into service operations, selling flashlights to the public for Thurston Lava Tube trips. They also paid to fund (not to exceed $100) a project to assist the Volcano Observatory to purchase foreign periodicals as well as to reprint the Volcano Letter for “exchange purposes.”74
Spearheaded by HNHA, Hui sales were brisk, and their coffers grew. Superintendent Wosky felt that it was a good time to request funds for a new project.
On April 27, 1955 Wosky requested $1,500 to build signs made out of 2" redwood stock and erected on 4x4 redwood posts. A total of 24 signs would be routed with letters painted bright yellow. The signs would be used as interpretive features on highways in the park to explain the “significance of most outstanding attractions in a manner comparable to that of a label in a museum exhibit.”75 By June 30, 1956 Park Ranger Robert Jacobsen reported that the Hui O Pele Interpretive Sign Program had been successfully completed. A total of 27 large interpretive signs, five information and public safety signs, 16 elevation signs, and two residence signs had been constructed and 12 old signs had been partially rehabilitated.76
Two months later, Wosky again requested another $1,500 for funds to continue and expand the sign program. Wosky touted the success of the previous use of Hui funds and stated that although regular park funds were available for these kinds of project, that the funding provided by the government was not enough.
Wosky’s request was approved and a check for the funds was mailed to the park on January 30, 1957. 77
This was also a positive time for the parks other philanthropic group, HNHA. By 1956, the association account was flush, and they needed to divest their account. The group took several actions to achieve this. They streamlined their operations and decreased the number of items available for sale, invested association money in government bonds, transferred (via donation) ownership of non-sales equipment from HNHA to the park, and waived all dues in 1956 for employees of Hawaii National Park, the Volcano Observatory, and active local residents of Hawai‘i Island that were in good standing.78 In 1960, HNHA had its most profitable year to date ($10,216.95). The activities of the association and the level of funding prompted members to discuss hiring someone to handle the routine affairs of the organization. They also discussed paying for park interpretive staff, because the park appropriations were not enough to cover staff salaries.79 The director of the National Park Service also requested that HNHA contribute to a “special fund.”
The nature and purpose of which was not outlined. In 1961, a letter from the special assistant to the director, he indicated that HNHA should contribute 2% of their net profit for 1960 ($200) to this fund.
Photo Top: Newly completed Kalapana- Chain of Craters Road in 1964.
Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Photo Bottom: Kalapana Ranger Station in 1965. Image courtesy of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Kalapana Extension
Throughout 1957 and 1958 HNHA continued to be the biggest sellers of Hui O Pele memberships. They also managed and transferred Hui money collected from the Volcano House. By mid-1958, Hui O Pele had $3,000 in the bank and they were looking for additional projects to fund.
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