W911SD-23-R-0008 SOW--FINAL GB CLOTH MOCK ELAQTIQUE POLY WOOL CUF MATERIAL.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

WP-PD-21-02

21 April 2022

SUPERSEDING

PD 370A

8 April 1974

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, MOCK ELASTIQUE, POLYESTER AND WOOL (LOCAL STOCK NUMBER C0150)

(NOTE: This document supersedes the purchase description for “C0150” previously covered by PD 370A dated 8 April 1974, and its updates and additions dated 11 February 2019, and 9 December 2019, and any other previous document for” C0150” before the date of this document.)

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester and wool mock elastique cloth for use in dress trousers and skirts for use in temperate weather by the United States Military Academy (USMA) Cadets.

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers one (1) type of polyester and wool mock elastique cloth.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019, and the Cadet Uniform Factory (CUF), 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY, 10996, ATTN: ASCE-LWP-CU.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment Of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-3064 - Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 16 CFR Part 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Title 16 CFR Part 300 - Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov)

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA)

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ams.usda.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ecfr.gov/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/

AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC TM124 - Test Method for Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering

AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to DryCleaning AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.)

ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D3511/D3511M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics – Brush Pilling Tester ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.sdlatlas.com/ https://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.4 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Materials.

3.6.1 Stock.

3.6.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 64’s U.S. Standard. The use of noils, laps or other wool manufacturing by-product is prohibited.

3.6.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3.5 inches. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.5. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited.

3.6.2 Polyester wool yarn. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and wool, drawn and spun into a 2-ply yarn for both warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain 55 (+5, -0) percent polyester with the remaining percentage wool, based on the dry weight of the desized specimen.

The minimum for the wool fiber is 40 percent. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.5.

NOTE: Selvage. To prevent the edges of the cloth from building up when rolled, two ply yarns used in the selvage may be made of a finer count than those used in the body of the cloth. The selvage shall be no thicker than thirty percent more than the body of the cloth when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.6.3 Color. The color of the dyed and finished cloth shall be Cadet Gray 372 or as specified in the contract and shall match the USMA Standard Color Sample. The color shall be obtained by stock dyeing or top dyeing. The USMA Standard Color Sample is available from The Cadet Uniform Factory USMA. (see 6.4).

3.6.3.1 Visual Shade matching. Shade shall match USMA standard sample for this cloth when tested as specified in 4.5. The Logistics Readiness Center (LRC) at West Point shall determine acceptability of samples submitted.

3.6.3.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth referenced in 3.6 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed in Table I, unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements.

Color Evaluation

Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm) @ 420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)

(min.)

Crocking Wet & Dry

(min.)

Wet Drycleaning

(1 cycle) (min.)

Cadet Gray 372 3-4 3-4 3.5 3-4

1/ (AFU) AATCC Fading Units

3.6.4 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material shall be in accordance with MIL-C-43665. It shall be accomplished during stock or top dyeing and tested as specified in

MIL-C-43665.

3.7 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

TABLE II. Physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement Weight, (oz./linear yd.) 1/ 12.5 (± 0.5) Yarns per inch, (min.)

Warp Filling

Breaking strength (pounds), (min.)

Warp

1/ Weight is based on a 56-inch width.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

3.7.1 Weave. The weave shall be a steep twill as shown on Figure 1.

FIGURE 1. Weave construction (mock elastique).

3.7.2 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvages.

3.7.3 Finish and final appearance. The cloth shall be processed (Scoured, fulled, brushed, sheared and decated). Note: pressing is optional, so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample (see 4.4.5).

3.7.4 Pilling. The cloth shall be processed to show no more pilling than a rating of “4” using the ASTM Photographic Rating Standard. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.5.

3.7.5 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.7.6 Dimensional stability

3.7.6.1 Shrinkage in Sponging. The finished cloth shall be cold water sponged. The finished cloth shall show no greater shrinkage than 2.5 percent in the warp and 1.5 percent in the filling when tested as specified in 4.4.5. The contractor shall invoice deliveries by Net Linear Yardage. Net Linear Yardage is the number of linear yards of finished cloth after cold sponging and all finishing processes are complete.

3.7.6.2 Laundering. The shrinkage or elongation both in the warp and filling of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 3.5 percent in either direction for the individual sample unit and not greater than 3.0 percent in either direction for the lot average when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.7.6.3 Dry cleaning. The shrinkage or elongation both in the warp and filling of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 3.5 percent in either direction for the individual sample unit and not greater than 3.0 percent in either direction for the lot average when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.8 Fabric appearance rating. The finished cloth shall have an appearance rating of not less than “3.5” when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.9 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.

3.10 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, between 85 and 100 yards each. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in 5.1. No roll that contains a piece of finished cloth less than 50 continuous yards in length shall be accepted at full offered price per yard. The contractor shall specify the percentage of discount off the price per yard for pieces of cloth less measuring than 50 continuous yards in length.

Failure to do so may be cause for rejection of bid. Pieces less than 25 yards in continuous length and rolls containing more than one continuous piece shall not be accepted. Two (2) or more pieces joined together regardless of length will not be accepted.

3.11 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with Title 16 CFR Part 303, Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and Title 16 CFR Part 300, Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939.

3.12 Marking. The face or the back side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the either word “FACE” or “BACK” at each end of the piece.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the applicable established maximum point values.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects listed in Table III and 4.4.3 and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.4.5.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations in 4.4.1 through 4.4.4 and the testing in 4.4.5 through 4.5.2, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and the acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified in this specification or applicable procurements documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with this specification and all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.4.1 Yard by yard examination. The yard by yard examination shall be as specified in

MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.2 Visual examination. Each roll shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064, Table III and 4.4.3.

TABLE III. Defects.

Defect Classification

Major Minor Material defects Outside-Any hole, cut, rip or tear, or weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, needle chew, loose slub, pull, or other mill flaws, fabric cut on wrong side, stamping marks, color not as specified. 1/

Visible lines, mend, broken or missing yarn, misweave or weave issues, thin place, Stains or spots, or stray yarns woven in, pulls, shade part/bar greater than 1/4-inch, Tight selvage or stretched fabric, Baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth Any embedded foreign matter or overall uncleanness 2/ 102 Inside – Defects listed above not affecting the performance serviceability and appearance. 201 Overall application of finish not uniform 103 Objectionable odor 3/ 104

1/ The same yardage shall be given a through-lighting inspection for pinholes and thinly coated areas.

2/ Clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3-feet) by either direct viewing or through-lighting.

3/ Normal residual odor of chemicals used shall not be regarded objectionable.

4.4.3 Roll identification and Face identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects listed below and as specified in MIL-STD-3064: The lot shall be unacceptable if two (2) or more of the following defects are present in the sample.

Face or back stamping missing from either or both ends Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and the Wool Products labeling Act of 1939

4.4.4 Shade and finish appearance examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade and appearance as specified in MIL-STD-3064. Any roll in the sample off shade; shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finish appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.5 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV. The methods of testing specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE IV. End item tests

Characteristic

Requirement paragraph

Test Method

Wool grade 3.6.1.1 U.S Standard (see 2.2.2) Fiber length 3.6.1.2 Precision steel ruler Fiber percentage 3.6.2 AATCC TM20A Yarn ply Warp

3.6.2 Visual 1/

Selvage thickness 3.6.2 Visual and ASTM D1777 Visual Shade Matching 3.6.3.1 4.5.1 Colorfastness:

Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ /(m2nm) @420 nm) Perspiration (Acid & Alkaline) Crocking (Wet & Dry) Wet Drycleaning (1 cycle)

3.6.3

Table I Table I Table I Table I

AATCC TM16.3, Option 3 2/

AATCC TM15 3/

AATCC TM8 4/

AATCC TM132 2/

Mothproofing 3.6.4 MIL-C-43665 Weight Table II ASTM D3776/D3776M Option C Yarns per inch Table II ASTM D3775 Breaking strength Table II ASTM D5034 Weave 3.7.1 Visual 1/ Width 3.7.2 Visual with precision ruler Pilling 3.7.4 ASTM D3511/D3511M 5/ pH 3.7.5 AATCC TM81

TABLE IV. End item tests - Continued

Characteristic

Requirement paragraph

Test Method

Dimensional stability After Sponging After Laundering 2 cycles After Drycleaning 2 cycles

Table II 3.7.6.1 3.7.6.2 3.7.6.3

6/ 7/ AATCC TM135 (I) (V) (Aiii)

AATCC TM158

Fabric appearance rating 3.8 AATCC TM124 8/ Toxicity 3.9 4.5.2

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit. Result reported as “pass” or “fail”.

2/ Rated using the AATCC EP1.

3/ Rated using AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2.

4/ Rated using the AATCC EP8.

5/ The pilling test shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D3511/D3511M, except that five (5) specimens of each test cloth shall be tested.

6/ The results of the three (3) individual determinations on the sample unit shall be equal to or better than the specified ratings when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

7) Following manufacturers own finishing sponging process (see 6.6).

8/ The fabric shall be rated in accordance with AATCC TM124 after laundering according to TM135 (I) (V) (Aiii) (2 Cycles).

4.5 Methods and tests of inspection.

4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option C (See 6.6) with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 K (± 200) K illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856 K (± 200) K.

4.5.2 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.7) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.6 and 6.7).

5. PACKAGING.

(All packaging and storage shall follow current practices of the CUF at the USMA.)

5.1 Packaging. Each piece of cloth shall be rolled onto a sufficiently sturdy and smooth commercial cardboard tube as to not crush in storage, movement, or shipping of the cloth roll.

Exterior- end of each roll shall be secured within the package as not to unroll or unfurl.

Each roll shall be enclosed in a commercial clear tubular bag of polyethylene film or other suitable clear material to protect the cloth from soiling and degradation in shipping and storage. Bags shall be closed with mechanical ties (twist-ties or cable ties) of suitable weight to secure the closure of the bag through shipping and storage. A complete package of cloth shall weigh no more than 105 pounds.

5.2 Marking. Each roll of cloth shall have a Piece Ticket and Identification Tag affixed to it.

5.2.1 Piece ticket. Each roll shall have a Piece Ticket affixed to the closure of the tubular bag with a cotton string or a plastic tag hanger. The Piece Ticket shall have a reinforced eyelet. At a minimum, the Piece Ticket shall be clearly and legibly marked with the cloth description, local CUF stock number “C0150, and the net linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll in the bag.

Additional information may be placed on the Piece Ticket but no less. Markings on the Piece Ticket shall be legibly printed, using water insoluble ink (see Figure 2).

5.2.2 Identification Tag. Each clear tubular bag shall be marked with an Identification Tag. The Identification Tag shall indicate at a minimum the contractor name, contractor address, contract number, local CUF stock number “C0150”, cloth description, and the net linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll in the bag. Additional information may be placed on the Identification Tag but no less. Identification Tags shall have minimum dimensions of 2.4-inches x 4-inches, and shall be completely legible as affixed to the bag. The Identification Tag shall be affixed to the bag approximately 3-inches in from the selvage edge closest to closure end of the bag (see Figure 2).

FIGURE 2. Tag Locations

5.1.3 Delivery address. The contractor shall address all shipments of finished cloth to:

USMA Logistics Warehouse 917 Washington Road West Point, NY 10996.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended Use – Finished Mock Elastique cloth will be used to manufacture USMA Cadet Mock Elastique Trousers and Skirts worn by the United States Corps of Cadets attending the United States Military Academy. Trousers and skirts made from this cloth are worn during more temperate seasons in lieu of trousers made from 19 ounce, 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray elastique cloth.

The 19 ounce, 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray cloth is the sole shell-cloth used for Cadet Dress Uniform coats. The Mock Elastique cloth is intended to mimic or “mock” the appearance of the

Piece Tag

19 ounce Cadet Gray 100% worsted wool elastique cloth so that garments will match both these cloths. The USMA Standard Color Sample therefore is 19 oz 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray elastique cloth.

6.1.1 Purchase Descriptions that use WP-PD-21-02:

WP-PD-21-17 Trousers, Dress, Mock Elastique, Men’s WP-PD-21-18 Trousers, Dress, Mock Elastique, Women’s WP-PD-22-02 Skirt, Dress, Mock Elastique

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3)

c. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2, and 6.3).

d. Width of cloth required (see 3.7.2).

e. Minimum length required if other than specified (see 3.10).

f. Toxicity requirement (see 3.9, 4.5.2).

g. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3)

h. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

i. Packaging requirements (see 5.).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to standard samples and patterns contact the following:

ASCE-LWP-CU, Cadet Uniform Factory, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY 10996

6.5 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC EP9, Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5º) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90o angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.6 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, conduct in accordance with Title 40 of the Code of Federal Regulations, current editions and applicable sections, which are consistent with OECD tests: Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1).

Dermal sensitization: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100

Dermal toxicity: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250.

6.7 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.8 Notes of caution to manufacturers.

a. The choice of polyester fiber type should be made by the supplier for a minimum pilling tendency.

b. Staple length. The longest staple length commensurate with the staple of the wool, with proper twist to prevent pilling should be used when manufacturing this cloth.

6.8 Successful contractor will be furnished by the contracting officer or designated representative a swatch of the USMA Standard Color Sample no less than 4-inches in warp and 6-inches in the weft direction upon Contract Award.

Section 7. Pre-Production Sample. - The contractor shall provide a five (5) yard finished, sponged preproduction sample to:

USMA, Cadet Uniform Factory 687 Hardee Place West Point, NY 10996.

The requirement for a Pre-Production Sample may be waived at the Government’s discretion based on contactor’s history of successfully suppling cloth meeting this description. The pre-production sample if required will be tested for physical characteristics in this purchase description.

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Dress uniform Fabric Mothproofing Skirts Temperate weather Trousers

Custodians: Preparing Activity Army – GL GL-Army

Reviewing Activity

ASCE-LWP-CU CADET UNIFORM FACTORY

https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250