FINAL_NCTRF_PD_16-15_Undershirt_Physical_Fitness_Uniform_7_Mar_16.pdf

AMSC N/A FSC 8420

NCTRF PD 16-15

7 March 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

UNDERSHIRT, PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM, MOISTURE WICKING

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the undershirt, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Navy.

1.2 Classification. The undershirt will be in the following types and sizes:

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - Short sleeve

Type II - Long sleeve

1.2.2 Sizes. The undershirt sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large

Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52095 - Thread, Polyester Textured

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32095 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the Extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

DRAWINGS

02-NCTRF-15 - Logos, US NAVY PTU

(for access to drawing see 6.1.)

2.2 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crock-meter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Accelerated AATCC 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering AATCC 100 - Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials, Assessment of AATCC 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering AATCC 197 -Vertical Wicking of Textiles AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6, Instrumental Color Measurement AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ISEA 107 - American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear

(Application for copies shall be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1819 L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D2149 - Standard test Method for Determining the Antimicrobial

Activity of Immobilized Antimicrobial Agents Under Dynamic Contact Conditions.

ASTM D3512 - Standard test method for Pilling Resistance and other related

Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester.

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted

Goods Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D3887 - Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/

ASTMD 6797 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant- Rate-of-Extension(CRE) Ball Burst Test.

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence, KY 41042.)

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.1), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3. Design. The Undershirt shall be a full cut tubular body with hemmed set-in sleeves, crew neck neckband and double needle coverstitch at bottom hem. The inside of the shoulder and back of neckband seam (shoulder to shoulder) shall be reinforced with 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide tape of basic knit fabric. The front neckline bottom of the Undershirt shall be double needle cover-stitched. The Type I short sleeve undershirt shall have double needle coverstitch at sleeve bottom hem. Type II long sleeve undershirt shall have long sleeves overedged to armholes and ribbed knit cuffs. The Undershirt shall have reflective graphic logo transfers on the front left and center back of the Undershirt with the word “NAVY”.

3.4 Basic materials.

3.4.1 Body and sleeves basic cloth (all types). The basic cloth for all types shall be 100 percent low-pill, spun polyester performance knitted fabric on a circular knit machine with a jersey stitch. The knitted cloth shall have a moisture management/wicking capability and an antimicrobial finish. The basic cloth shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2 or be equal to or better.

3.4.1.1 Finish. The basic cloth shall be desized, scoured, heat set, dyed and finished to meet the requirements. The heat set process shall ensure that the fabric will not shrink, or elongate and shall meet the requirements in Table I. The cloth shall be given a moisture wicking and antimicrobial treatment to meet the requirements in Table I.

3.4.2 Neckband (all types) and cuffs (type II only). The material for the neckband and cuffs shall be a 100 percent low pill, spun performance polyester 1x1 true rib knit. The knitted cloth shall have a moisture management/wicking capability and an antimicrobial finish. The http://www.astm.org/ basic material shall be preshrunk and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2 or be equal to or better.

TABLE I. Body and sleeves basic cloth, neckband and cuffs physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Body and sleeves Neckband/cuffs

Weight, oz./sq. yd. 6.2 ± 0.2 7.6 ± 0.3 Fabric Yarn Count (minimum) Wales per inch Courses per inch

Bursting Strength, pounds (minimum)

120 -----

Air Permeability, ft3/min/ft2.

(minimum)

150 -----

Dimensional Stability, percent (maximum) After 5 launderings Wales Courses

4.0 4.0

Physical Surface Change after Laundering (minimum) After 25 launderings

4 or better

Colorfastness (minimum):

Laundering (5 cycles) Light (170 kJ or 40 hrs.)

Crocking (Dry/wet) Perspiration (acid/alkaline) pH 5.5 to 8.5 5.5 to 8.5 Opacity, percent (minimum) Dry Wet

TABLE I. Body and sleeves basic cloth, neckband and cuffs physical requirements – Continued

Characteristic Requirement

Body and sleeves Neckband/cuffs Vertical Wicking (maximum) 6 inches/30 minutes ----- Seam Smoothness Initial After 5 launderings

SS-3 or better SS-3 or better

Anti-microbial Migratory Initial After 25 Launderings Non-migratory

After 25 Launderings

Log 3 or better / 99.9% min.

Log 2 or better / 99.0% min.

3.4.3 Reflective material. The reflective material for the graphic logo transfers shall be applied by heat transfer method and produced using 3M Scotchlite™ 8712 silver retro reflective film or equivalent (See 6.3). See drawing 02-NCTRF-15 for “NAVY” lettering and font. See 4.6.1.1.

3.4.3.1 Testing of reflective materials. The reflective marking material for the logos shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the undershirt. See 4.6.1.

Testing shall conform to requirements in accordance to Table VI. The markings shall not delaminate, crack or peel after the 50 launderings. The markings shall not stain the basic material. The marking shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum 3 rating using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change. See Figure 7 and 8 for placement of logo for laundering test.

3.4.4 Color. The basic material, neckband and cuffs shall match the standard sample for Gold

3908.

3.4.4.1 Visual shade matching. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance when tested in accordance with 4.6.2.

3.4.5 Thread (all types). The thread for seaming and stitching shall be 100% texturized polyester, Tex 45 conforming to the requirements of A-A-52095 or of equal commercial quality. As an alternate, thread conforming to Type I or II, Tex 36, 2 ply of A-A-50199 or of equal commercial quality may be used. The thread color shall match the shade of the basic material, shall have equal to or better colorfastness properties, and shall be stabilized to prevent shrinkage. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments, other than those commonly used on commercial threads.

3.4.6 Labels. Each garment shall incorporate heat transfer or screen print tag less labels as specified in 3.4.6.1 and 3.4.6.2. Each garment shall contain a size label, an identification label and an instruction label. All garments shall have a Barcode hang tag. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and instruction label may be combined. The label shall be located inside the center back at the neck and not be visible to the outside of the shirt. The labels shall not irritate the wearer. The label shall be legible for the life of the garment and show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles and shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum 3 rating using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change in accordance with 4.6.2 and Table VI.

3.4.6.1 Size label. The size label shall be a tag less application conforming to MIL-DTL-32075

Type III or IV and shall be applied to the inside of the center back at the neck.

Example:

3.4.6.2 Combination size/identification label/instruction label. The combination size/identification/instruction label shall be a tag less application conforming to MIL-DTL- 32075 Type III or IV applied to the inside of the center back at the neck and shall contain the following information:

3.4.6.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener.

The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials "UPC" shall appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so it is completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so it

SIZE

NSN No.

CONTRACT NUMBER

UNDERSHIRT, NAVY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

100% POLYESTER

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

“CARE INSTRUCTIONS”

Machine wash lukewarm (105oF), delicate cycle Wash dark colors separately.

Use non-chlorine bleach only, when needed Tumble dry low

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS

OR DRYER SHEETS

DO NOT IRON OR DRY CLEAN

LOGOS

Medium NSN No.

causes no damage to the item. This UPC code shall also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.5 Construction.

3.5.1 Neckband (all types). The neckband shall be crew neck style made of a double thickness of

1x1 ribbed knit cloth to finish 1 (± 1/8) inch wide.

3.5.2 Sleeve hems (Type I). The sleeve hem shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch.

3.5.3 Cuffs (Type II). The cuffs shall be made of double thickness of 1x1 rib knit cloth to finish

2-1/2 (± 1/4) inches in length for all sizes (as measured from the bottom of the finished cuff to the joining seam).

3.5.4 Bottom hem. The bottom hem shall finish 7/8 (± 1/8) inch.

3.6 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are not true to size but designated measurements are actual and are furnished for informational purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the figures and the purchase description the purchase description shall govern.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns, which show size, directional lines, placement marks, and notches for assembly, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The Government pattern shall not be altered in any way and shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to the contractor’s working pattern where necessary when using automatic equipment or production processes. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this purchase description. The Government patterns provide a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

TABLE II. – List of pattern parts

Material and Pattern Part Computer Nomenclature Cut

Parts

Basic Material

BODY PD1615-BODY 1

SLEEVE TYPE I PD1615-SLEEVE TYPE I 2

SLEEVE TYPE II PD1615-SLVE TYPE II 2

1x1 Rib Knit

NECKBAND 1/ -

CUFF PD1615-CUFF 2

1/ Neckband pattern not supplied, it shall be the responsibility of the manufacturer to meet the finished width and length requirements specified in 3.4.2 and 3.5.1, Table III and IV.

3.8 Stitches and seams. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of

ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/8-inch minimum and all loose thread shall be removed from the shirt.

Raw edges are not acceptable anywhere on the garment. All 300, 400, and 500 series stitching shall have a minimum of 10 ± 2 stitches per inch. The end of all stitches when not caught in other seams or stitching (except for hem and over-seaming of neckband) shall be securely tacked.

3.9 Finished measurements. The Type I and II Undershirt shall conform to the finished dimensions of Table III and IV. See Figures 1 and 2. The dimensional measurements shall be evaluated in accordance with 4.5.2.

TABLE III. Finished measurements (inches) Type I short sleeve

Sizes

Back Length

A

Half Chest

B

Neck

Opening C

Shoulder

D

Armhole

E

Sleeve

Opening F

Sleeve Inseam

G

X-Small 26 17-1/2 7-1/4 5-1/2 8-1/2 7-1/2 5-1/2 Small 27 19-1/4 7-3/4 6 9 7-3/4 6 Medium 29 21 8-1/4 6-1/2 9-1/2 8 6 Large 31 23 8-3/4 7 10 8-1/4 6-1/2 X-Large 33 25 9-1/4 7-1/2 10-1/2 8-1/2 6-1/2

XX-

Large

34 27 9-3/4 8 11 8-3/4 7

XXX-

Large

35 29 10-1/4 8-1/2 11-1/2 9 7

Tolerance +1/2 +1/2 +1/4 +1/4 +1/2 +1/4 +1/4

This section intentionally left blank

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches) Type II long sleeve

Sizes

Back Length

A

Chest

B

Neck

Opening C

Shoulder

D

Armhole

E

Sleeve Inseam

H

Cuff

Opening I

X-Small 26 17-1/2 7-1/4 5-1/2 8-1/2 19 2-3/4 Small 27 19-1/4 7-3/4 6 9 19-1/2 3 Medium 29 21 8-1/4 6-1/2 9-1/2 20 3-1/4 Large 31 23 8-3/4 7 10 20-1/2 3-1/2 X-Large 33 25 9-1/4 7-1/2 10-1/2 21 3-3/4

XX-

Large

34 27 9-3/4 8 11 21-1/2 4

XXX-

Large

35 29 10-1/4 8-1/2 11-1/2 22 4-1/4

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4

3.9.1 Method of inspection. The measurements shall be taken with the Undershirt flat but not stretched. Refer to Figures for measuring points.

(A) Back length. Measure from collar joining seam on center back to bottom of shirt.

(B) Half chest. Measure 1-inch below the sleeve joining seam from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) Neck opening. Grasp neckband at center back and center front, forming a straight line, do not stretch, and measure across to top edge of neckband.

(D) Shoulder. Measure from collar seam to armhole seam, along shoulder seam.

(E) Armhole. Measure from the intersection of top of sleeve at shoulder seam to bottom of underarm seam following the curve.

(F) Half sleeve opening (Type I). Measure from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of finished hem with sleeve hem flat.

(G) Sleeve inseam (Type I). Measure from bottom of joining armhole seam to bottom of finished hem.

(H) Sleeve inseam (Type II). Measure from bottom of joining armhole seam to the bottom edge of the cuff.

(I) Half cuff opening (Type II). Measure from the inseam to the folded edge of the cuff.

3.9.2 Lettering for reflective heat transfer logo placement (Type I and II). The reflective heat transfer markings of the “NAVY” logos shall be placed on the left upper chest panel and centered across the back yoke in accordance with the placement markings on the patterns.

Finished dimensions of the “NAVY” logo shall be placed in accordance with Table V. See Figures 7 and 8.

TABLE V. – Logo placement chart (inches)

Sizes J K L M X-Small 5-1/8 2-1/8 7/8 3-1/2 Small 5-3/8 2-1/8 1-5/8 3-7/8 Medium 5-3/4 2-1/8 2-1/2 4-3/8 Large 6 2-1/4 3 4-1/2 X-Large 6-3/8 2-3/8 3-5/8 4-5/8 XX-Large 6-3/4 2-1/2 4-1/4 4-3/4 XXX-Large 7-1/8 2-5/8 4-7/8 4-7/8 Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

Note: Method of measuring. Garment shall be laid flat without tension.

Front: (See Figure 7 for Type I and Type II Shirts)

J. Distance from high point of shoulder to top of logo K. Distance from center front to upper left corner of logo L. Distance from armhole seam to upper right corner of logo

Center Back: (See Figures 8 for Type I and Type II Shirts)

M. Distance from collar joining seam on center back to top of logo

3.10 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.3. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.1).

3.11 Workmanship. The finished Undershirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The Undershirt shall be free from all defects as specified in Table VII which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements in Tables III and IV. The presence of excessive defects as specified in Table VII and as defined by contract, (see 4.1) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of tests from

4.4 through 4.6.3 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with quality acceptance limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.1).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.1).

4.4.1 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.2 Component testing.

4.4.2.1 Basic cloths. The basic cloth physical requirements as specified in Table I shall be verified by the test methods specified below in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Component testing for basic cloth, neckband and cuffs

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Body and Sleeves

Neckband and cuffs

Weight 3.4.1 ------ ASTM D3776 Opt. C Fabric yarn count:

Wales Courses

3.4.1 3.4.2 ASTM D3887

Bursting strength 3.4.1 ------- ASTM D3787 or

ASTM D6797

TABLE VI. Component testing for basic cloth, neckband and cuffs – Continued

Paragraph

Test Method

Basic Cloth

Body and Sleeves

Neckband and cuffs

Dimensional stability

Wales Courses

3.4.1

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii

Physical surface change after laundering

ASTM D3512, SS-3 rating or better, Scale Small Pills

1/ Colorfastness:

Laundering (5 cycles) Light (170 kJ or 40 hours) Crocking ( dry/wet) Perspiration (alkaline/acid)

3.4.2

AATCC 61 Test 3A 2/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15 2/

Visual shade matching 3.4.4.1 3.4.4.1 4.6.2 pH 3.4.1 3.4.2 AATCC 81 Opacity Dry Wet

AATCC Procedure 6 5/

Vertical wicking 3.4.1 ------- AATCC 197, Option B Seam smoothness

AATCC 88B,3, III, Aiii, SS-3 Rating Anti-microbial Migratory Initial After 25 launderings Non-migratory

3.4.2 3.4.2 3.4.2

AATCC 100, ASTM E2149

and AATCC 135, 3,III, Aiii

Reflective materials After 50 launderings Cracking or Peeling

3.4.3.1 3.4.3.1

Visual Label After 50 launderings

3.4.6

AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii 3/

1/ The test method is cited for pilling rating scale purposes only.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3 Only one specimen per sample unit is required and rated. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 5/ The basic body cloth shall be measured for opacity. Opacity or hiding power, as defined by AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 involves measuring the test specimen backed by both a black tile background (less than 5%) and a white tile background (greater than 75%, less than 85%) substrate. Normally calibration tiles provided with the measurement equipment are sufficient.

Opacity percent is then calculated from the “Y” value of the measurement-over-black (Y/b) background divided by the “Y” value of the measurement-over-white (Y/w) background using D65/10 default, therefore (Y/b divided by Y/w) x 100 = % opacity. Using the method described, the dry and wet opacity of the tee shirt fabric shall be greater than or equal to the standard OR meet the requirement stated in Table I.

Procedure for measuring dry opacity:

1. Test three specimens. Each knitted specimen shall consist of a single ply, 6 inch x 6 inch piece.

2. Measure for opacity using the instrument described in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 and the procedure described above.

3. Results from the three test specimens shall be averaged and the results reported as dry opacity when using the calculation procedure described above.

Procedure for measuring wet opacity:

1. Test three specimens. Each knitted specimen shall consist of a single ply, 6 inch x 6 inch piece.

2. Place 100 ml of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250 ml beaker.

3. Place one specimen at a time in the beaker making certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.

4. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two pieces of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters.

Repeat this process for the remaining two specimens.

5. Measure for opacity using the instrument described in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 and the procedure described above.

6. Results from the three test specimens shall be averaged and the results reported as wet opacity when using the calculation procedure described above.

4.5 Visual examination

4.5.1 End item visual examination. Each undershirt selected for visual examination shall be visually examined for defects in color, design, materials, construction and workmanship to ensure compliance to Section 3. Cloth defects shall be defined in accordance with Section I of FED-STD-4. All defects shall be classified in accordance with Table VII.

TABLE VII. Visual examination defects

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor Material Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub, cut, tear, mend, burn, scorch, needle chew, run or hole.

Dropped stitch, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, discoloration, visible mend, thin place or shade bar.

Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part. 1/ Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded. 1/ Thread color not as specified; basic material color not as specified.

Cleanliness

Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment.

Thread ends not trimmed more than 1/8 inch throughout garment or any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable, snagged threads.

Objective odor.

Workmanship Neckband or cuffs curls, puckers, pleats, or twists.

Sleeves puckered or pleated; uneven in length more than 1/2-inch, poorly shaped; Neckband other than type specified, not uniform in width;

hem sleeves and bottom omitted; width not uniform throughout. 2/ Length of front and back uneven by more than 1/4-inch. 2/

NAVY lettering (reflective marking)

“NAVY” logos missing or illegible, not in accordance to the pattern location, exceeding dimensional tolerances, not in correct style or not clearly identifiable.

Heat transfer color not as specified, consistent, peeling, cracking, incomplete, lettering edges not clearly defined or not aligned parallel to bottom of yoke.

Platen marks around front or back logo extending more than 1/4-inch from edge of logo.

TABLE VII. Visual examination defects - Continued

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect.

Incorrectly placed or attached.

Letters misplaced, smeared, wrinkled, not cleanly or neatly applied, seen on the outside of the garment.

Accuracy of seaming

Seam twisted, pleated, seaming distorted or puckered, wavy, irregular or open. 3/ Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching.

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch.

Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or back-tacked less than 1/2-inch.

Gauge of stitching uneven or not as specified.

Not specified seam or stitch type.

Open seams More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch.

More than 1/4-inch. 3/

Stitch tension Loose tension in any area:

- More than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches.

- More than 2-inches.

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching).

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches. 3/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- One stitch.

- Two or more stitches.

More than maximum specified.

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one item.

More than one (1) repair but less than five (5) repairs on any one item.

Labels/Tags, UPC/HRI codes

Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner.

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible.

Not attached to location specified.

Causes damage to the garment.

Tagless label visible on outside of garment.

Examination Defect Classification

Major Minor

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

1/ Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of three feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

2/ Evenness can be determined by comparing measurements or companion parts OR by aligning parts and measuring the difference in lengths as described below. When evenness defects are found, the uniform shall be laid flat on a measuring surface and the difference in lengths recorded.

- Collar – assess by folding the collar at center back and aligning the collar halves at the front setting seam. Front collar edges shall be compared for height.

- Sleeves – shall be aligned from top of shoulder seam smoothed down along sleeve crease to sleeve hem edge. The aligned sleeve lengths shall be visibly inspected for evenness of sleeve lengths.

3/ One of more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

4.5.2 End item dimensional examination. Each undershirt selected for dimensional examination shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table III and Table IV.

Any measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III and Table IV shall be scored as a size measurement defect, Major 131.

4.6 End item testing (all types). The finished undershirt shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table VIII. The methods of testing specified in Table VIII shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be one (1) undershirt for all physical and chemical tests. The sample size shall be five (5) undershirts. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE VIII. End item testing (all types).

Paragraph Test Method

Reflective logo material 1/ 3.4.3 4.6.1 and 4.6.1.1 Toxicity 3.10 4.6.3 1/ First Article only

4.6.1 Reflective marking material adhesion. The reflective marking material for the logos shall be tested to ensure appropriate adhesion to the basic material used in the shirt. The material shall be tested in accordance to 4.4.2, Table VI.

4.6.1.1 Reflectivity of marking material. Reflective logos shall be certified to ANSI 107-2010

Level 2.

4.6.2 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the undershirt shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A with source simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (± 200)◦K illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)◦K.

4.6.3 Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 6.1) If the requirement (see 3.10) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity may not be required.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.1). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands.

Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

6.1. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Sizes, lengths and body styles required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government drawing(s). (see 3.4.3)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Packaging required (see 5.1)

g. Specific issue of individual documents referenced. (2.1, 2.2)

h. Inspection conditions

i. Conformance inspection and acceptable quality limits j When anti-microbial testing is required. (3.4.1, 3.4.1.1, 3.4.2, 4.6.2) k Name and address of the testing/inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the testing/inspection program.

l. When toxicity testing is required. (3.10, 4.6.3)

6.2 Source of Government documents. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form, http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx, Choose Pages > Spec Request. Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.3 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting office for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

6.4 Reflective source of supply.

Safe Reflections Inc.

3220 Granada Ave N. Suite 100 St. Paul, MN 55128-3550

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Navy-NU Navy-NU

DLA-CT

FIGURE 1. Undershirt Front, Profile, Back, Type I

FIGURE 2. Undershirt Front and Back, Type II

Note: Neck opening measurement same as Type I

FIGURE 3. Undershirt Front (Type I), Detail Views with Logo

FIGURE 4. Undershirt Back, Type I, Design View with logo

FIGURE 5. Undershirt Front, Type II, Design View with logo

FIGURE 6. Undershirt Back, Type II, Design View with logo

FIGURE 7. Undershirt Front, Type I and Type II, Design View with Logo Placement

FIGURE 8. Undershirt Back, Type I and Type II, Design View with Logo Placement