NAWC-PD-4672-14-06.pdf

NAWC PD 4672-14-06

NAWC-PD-4672-14-06

4 Dec 2014

SUPERSEDING

A-A-55068A

16 April 2012

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JERSEY, FLIGHT DECK, CREWMAN, FLAME RESISTANT

This purchase description is approved by the Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a flame resistant (FR), flight deck jersey (FDJ).

1.2 Classification.

1.2.1 Classes. The jersey will be furnished in the following classes as specified.

Class 1 – White Class 2 – Blue Class 3 – Green Class 4 – Yellow Class 5 – Brown Class 6 – Purple Class 7 – Red

1.2.2 Sizes. The jersey will be furnished in the following sizes as specified. The above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL.

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4. This section does not include documents cited in other sections or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

INCH POUND

are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements and documents cited in sections 3 and 4, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

FEDERAL STANDARD

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD 595/37925 – Miscellaneous, Flat or Lusterless (white) FED-STD 595/35095 – Blue, Flat or Lusterless FED-STD 595/14193 - Green, Gloss FED-STD 595/33655 - Yellow, Flat or Lusterless FED-STD 595/30108 - Brown, Flat or Lusterless FED-STD 595/37100 - Miscellaneous, Flat or Lusterless FED-STD-31350 - Red, Flat or Lusterless

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55217 – Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55195 – Thread, Aramid

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFCIATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 – Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.daps.dal.mil/quicksearch)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

NAVAL AIR SYSTEMS COMMAND

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

NAWC-4672-14-05 Cloth, Knit, Flame Resistant

(Copies of these documents are available from the procuring activity.)

2.3 Non-Government Publications. The following document forms a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 6193 – Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test -Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First Article. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with paragraph 4.2.

3.2 Design. The jersey shall be a pullover type with a mock turtleneck collar. The jersey shall be long sleeves (conventional set-in) with cuffs and an extended back length. The collar and cuff shall be of double thickness 1x1 rib knit material. The body of the jersey shall have a two piece construction with side seams and back tail piece that shall be longer than the front piece.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3.2. Basic material. The flight deck jersey body shall be made from a knitted flame resistant cloth conforming to Type I, NAWC PD 4672-14-05. The basic material shall also be used to make the self-binding. The color shall be cited in the contract (see 6.2) http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.3.3 Cloth, rib knit. The cloth for the cuff and collar of the jersey shall be a flame resistant 1 x 1 rib knit conforming to Type II, NAWC PD 4672-14-05.

3.4 Color. The jersey shall be available in seven colors specified below for the FED-STD-595 color chips referenced below (see 1.2.1).

White/37925 Blue/35095 Green/14193 Yellow/33655 Brown/30108 Purple/37100 Red/31350

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Labels. Each jersey shall have a commercial-type label and an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN). The printed cloth label shall be caught in the stitching of the commercial label. The combination label shall conform to Type IV or VI, class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size of the label shall be 2 inches wide (±1/8 inch) by 2- 1/2 inches long (±1/8 inch). When Type IV is used, the printing shall be black and the label background shall be white. The printing shall show fastness to laundering and shall bear the following inscription:

Nomenclature: Jersey, Flight Deck, Crewman, Flame Resistant

Fiber content: 100% Nylon (Example) Contract number: SP0100-00-C-0000 (Example)

Name of contractor: LMN Manufacturers (Example) Size: _______________________

Stock Number: 12358109943 (Example) Laundering instructions:

Machine wash cold, Line dry or air tumble-dry.

Do not use bleach or fabric softeners.

For best results launder separately.

or follow shipboard wash Formula III

3.5.2 Barcode Tag. Each jersey shall be individually bar coded with a Type VIII, Class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075 and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and packaged as specified. The label shall not cause any damage to the jersey such as a spot or stain or damage due to location on the garment (see 4.4.2).

3.6 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be aramid, Type I, Tex size 27 conforming to A-A-55217 or Tex size 40 conforming to A-A-55195. Color of the thread shall be a good match to the color of the basic material when tested as specified with the requirements of Table VII.

3.7 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figure, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. The government will furnish a complete set of patterns with grade rules, to maintain uniformity and consistency in manufacturing. The government patterns shall be used to create the contractor's working patterns. Additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor pattern modifications shall be permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design, appearance and finished measurements shall be maintained. Pattern grain lines shall not be modified. Adhesive patterns shall not be used. Patterns provide for a 3/8 inch seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

3.9. List of pattern parts. The component parts of the jersey shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with Table III.

Table III. List of pattern parts

Material Pattern Nomenclature

Computer Nomenclature 1/

Cut Parts

Basic material (3.3.2) Back FDJ-BACK 1 Front FDJ-FRT 1 Sleeve FDJ-SLV 2

Cloth, rib knit (3.3.3) Cuff FDJ-CUFF 2 Collar FDJ-COLLAR 1

1/ FDJ stands for Flight Deck Jersey

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches and seam types. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to prevent irritation or discomfort. Stitches, seam types and stitch placement specified in Table IV shall conform to ASTM D 6193. Whenever two or more methods of stitches and seam types are given for the same location, either shall be used. Except for the top of side vent, seams shall be sewn so that there are no raw edges, open seams, run-offs, twists, pleats or puckers visible from the outside. Seams shall start and finish evenly.

3.10.1.1 Stitches per inch. Stitches per inch shall be 8-10 stitches.

3.10.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment shall be used to manufacture jersey to this purchase description, provided that the stitch and seam types are as specified and the finished components conform to the required configuration. When Government furnished patterns are provided, the components shall conform to the pattern.

3.11 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with all operations specified in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations.

TABLE IV: Manufacturing operations

Number

Manufacturing Operations

Requirements

Seam Type

Stitch

1. Cut jerseys. The jerseys shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns. All component parts shall be cut in accordance with the directional lines. When no direction line is specified, the pattern shall be cut lengthwise in the wale direction.

2. Replacement of damaged parts. Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages as classified in Table VIII are excluded and replaced with non-defective material.

3. Marking.

a. Mark or bundle cut parts of the jersey to insure a uniform size, uniformity of shade, and proper assembly throughout fabrication.

b. Any method of marking may be used except:

(1) Metal fastening devices.

(2) Sew-on tickets.

(3) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

4. Make collar. Sew short ends right side together and turn collar seam to the inside.

Collar is set with the seam in the collar on the left side as worn.

504 SSa-1

5. Make cuff. Sew short ends right side together and turn cuff seam to the inside.

504 SSa-1

6. Assemble jersey.

a. Hem front and back. Front and back hem shall have a finished hem of 1 inch (+/- 1/4 inch).

406 EFa-2

b. Sew shoulders together. 504 SSa-1

TABLE IV: Manufacturing operations continued

Number

Manufacturing Operations

Requirements

Seam

Stitch

7. Neckline. 504

a. Set collar to front and back of jersey with label positioned at the center back.

504 SSa-1

b. Reinforce shoulder and back collar seam with one continuous length of self-binding 5/8 inches wide (+/- 1/16 inch) stitching 1/16 inch in from each edge

SSag-3

8. Set sleeves. 504 SSa-1

9. Sew side seam and close sleeve. 504 SSa-1

10. Cuffs.

a. Set cuffs. 504 SSa-1

b. Top stitch cuff 1/8 inch from seam, with seam facing the sleeve and catching the seam in the stitching.

301 SSq-2

11. Finish vents. Side seam vents shall be clean finished with 1/2 inch turned under, then 3/4 inch turned under and single needle topstitch at 3/8 inch with the top squared off 1/2 inch below the jut out cut edge.

301 EFb-1

12. Clean jerseys. Trim all thread ends and remove all loose threads.

3.12 Finished Measurements. The finished jersey shall conform to the measurements in Table V.

(see 4.4.3.1)

Table V. Finished Measurements (inches).

SIZES CHEST

WIDTH

A

FRONT

LENGTH

B

BACK

LENGTH

C

COLLAR

OPENING

D

COLLAR

HEIGHT

E

SLEEVE

LENGTH

F

CUFF

OPENING

G

CUFF

LENGTH

H

XSMALL 33-1/2 26 30 6-1/2 2 24 3-3/8 3

SMALL 37-1/4 27-3/4 31-1/2 7-1/8 2 24-3/4 3-3/8 3

MEDIUM 41 29-3/4 33 7-7/8 2 25-1/2 3-1/2 3

LARGE 45 30-1/2 34 8-5/8 2 26-1/2 3-1/2 3

X-LARGE 49 31-3/8 35 9-3/8 2 27-1/2 3-5/8 3

XX-LARGE 53 32-1/8 36 10-1/8 2 28-1/2 3-5/8 3

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4

3.13 Workmanship. Each jersey shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The finished jersey shall be thoroughly cleaned and all threads, lint and foreign matter shall be removed. The jersey shall not contain any fabric defects. Each jersey shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could affect performance, reliability or durability and the defects listed in Table VIII. Sleeves shall be equal in length.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein as classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article inspection, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in Table VI. The presence of any nonconformance to Table VI shall be cause to reject first article.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2), the number of samples for first article inspections of the completed jersey shall be one jersey for each sized ordered.

TABLE VI: First Article Inspections.

Inspection Requirement Test Method

Material and Components 3.3.2, 3.3.3, 3.5, 3.6 4.4.1 Visual Examination 3.11 4.4.2

Finished Measurement 3.12 4.4.3

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4.2, 4.4.3 and the tests of 4.4.1 as specified in 6.2.

4.3.1 Conformance samples. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The sample unit shall be one jersey and the lot shall be expressed in units of jerseys.

4.4 Inspection methods. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents (see 6.2).

4.4.1 Material and component examinations and tests. Material and components shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table VII. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table VII shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. Unless otherwise noted, each lot of component material shall be tested, and the lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any requirements specified.

Table VII. Material and component testing

Characteristic Requirement Reference

Test method

Material testing Cloth Basic material 3.3.2 All tests and examinations specified in NAWC PD 4672-14-

Cloth, rib knit 3.3.3 All tests and examinations specified in NAWC PD 4672-14-

Component testing Thread Colorfastness to laundering, accelerated

3.6 A-A-55217 or A-A-55195

Labels Material identification 3.5.1 MIL-DTL-32075

4.4.1.1 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Sections 3.

Materials and components, which can be classified, as having a defect in accordance with Table VIII shall be removed from production.

4.4.2 Visual examinations. The jersey shall be visually examined for the defects listed in Table VIII.

Table VIII. End item visual defects

Examination Defect Classification Major Minor

Material defects

Any hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, needle chew, drill hole, exposed, scorched area, run, or open place

Any knot greater than Sears scale level C or slub greater than Sears Scale Level D

Broken and missing section of yarn, visible mend, thin place, or shade bar

Loose yarn or coarse yarn on outside or knit-in waste

Shaded parts Variation in shade on outside within a part or between parts, poor dye penetration, dye streak (except for the neck and cuff) visible at 3 ft away

Table VIII. End item visual defects continued

Cleanness Any spot or stain on outside, visible at 3-feet Thread ends not trimmed to 1/4-inch or less throughout (more than 3) Thread end caught for a distance of more than 1/4-inch in line of stitching on outside Two or more shade or size tickets or loose threads not removed Any size or shade marking or residue on outside, score as spot or stain

Component and assembly

Any component part or operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein) Any component not as specified Any component part twisted, distorted, pleated, misshaped, tight or full (unless otherwise classified herein) Fullness creating unwanted permanent, fold, pleat, crease, in fabric or garment Edge of any component part required to be forced out, having folds of more than 1/8-inch (unless otherwise classified herein)

Cutting Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern or directional line on patterns, or not in accordance with this document

Stitching and seams

Seam irregular, twisted, pleated, or wavy Seam puckered (score only when on ½ or more of seam) Any part of jersey caught in an unrelated stitching (unless otherwise specified) End of stitching not back stitched or caught in other seams as required.

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch End of continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 1/2-inch Gage of stitching and seam allowance irregular or not within range specified or varies more than 1/16-inch when no range is specified Open seam: (On all seams)

– up to 1/2-inch inclusive

– more than 1/2-inch NOTE: One or more broken stitches or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches on joining seam.

On double-stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of seam are open.

Stitching and seams- Continued

Runoff on joining seam, (score as an open seam) Raw edges (see 3.10.1):

On outside:

1/8 to 1/4-inch inclusive More than 1/4-inch

On inside:

More than 1/4-inch

On over-edged edge:

1-inch to 2-inches inclusive More than 2-inches

Stitch and seam type:

Not specified stitch and seam type Any line of stitching omitted Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where Specified Broken, missing, or skipped stitches on edge or raised stitching 1/2-inch inclusive More than 1/2-inch

Stitch tension:

Loose tension resulting in a loose seam:

up to 1/2-inch More than 1/2-inch Loose tension on raised or edged stitching resulting in exposed loose thread Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching)

All other seams:

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on ½ or more of seam or stitching) (exclusive of overedge stitching):

Less than the minimum More than the maximum Overedge stitching, two or more stitches less than specified

Neck Tight at joining to neck, causing puckers or pleats on front or back

Sleeves Sleeve puckered or pleated at joining to armhole Sleeve tight at armhole, causing puckers, or pleats on fronts or back at armhole seam Sleeve back arm seams unequal distance from shoulder seams by more than 3/4 inch Sleeve lengths vary by more than 3/4 inch

Label Missing , incorrect, or illegible Not positioned as specified More than 1-inch off center Bar code label tag( if applicable):

Bar code omitted or not readable by scanner Human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible Not visible on packaged item Causes damage to item

Hem Stitching across ends of hem omitted or insecure Twisted, puckered, pleated, wavy or distorted Width less than 1/2-inch or more than 1 1/2-inch Irregular in width by 1/2-inch or more

4.4.3 End item dimensional examination. The jerseys shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurement requirements as specified in 3.12. Each size of shirt present in the lot shall be represented in the sample selected for this examination. Non-conformance shall be scored as a major defect.

4.4.3.1 Method for taking finished measurements. All circumference measurements of the jersey are taken from folded edge to folded edge with the garment laying flat. (This may not be seam to seam.)

Refer to Figures 1 and 2.

A/ The chest width shall be measured by doubling the measurement across the front, 1 inch below the armhole seams, from folded edge to folded edge.

B/ The front length shall be measured from the intersection of the collar seam and the shoulder seam (high point of shoulder) to the bottom edge of hem.

C/ The back length shall be measured from the high point of shoulder to the bottom edge of hem.

D/ The collar opening shall be measured by positioning collar flat and measuring between folded edges along the top edge.

E/ The collar height shall be measured along the folded edge from the neck seam to the top of the collar.

F/ The sleeve length shall be measured by measuring along the outside folded edge of the sleeve from the intersection of the armhole seam and the shoulder seam to the bottom edge of the cuff.

G/ The cuff opening shall be measured by positioning cuff flat and measuring between folded edges along the bottom edge.

H/ The cuff length shall be measured by positioning the cuff flat and measuring between the top seam and the bottom folded edge of the cuff.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of materials is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Points packaging activity within the Military Departments Systems Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but it is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The jersey covered by this purchase description is intended to be worn as a protective layer by flight deck personnel. The flight deck jersey is intended for wear by flight deck personnel aboard aircraft carriers to designate their assigned duties as follows:

White Landing Signal Officers Blue Aircraft Handlers Green Catapult and Arresting Gear Personnel Yellow Aircraft Handling Officers and Plane Directors Brown Plane Captains and Mechanics Purple Aviation Fuel Crew Red Ordnance Personnel

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document

b. Classes and sizes required (see 1.2)

c. Issue to be cited in the solicitation

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3)

e. Packaging Requirements (see 5.1)

h. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (see 4.3)

i. Inspection Conditions (see 4.4 & 4.5)

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it should be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer shall specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer shall include specific instruction in all acquisition document regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Information Requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit https://www.troopsupport.dla.mil/ClothingandTextiles/. Choose Vendor Links > Spec/Pattern/Dwg Requests. Complete the request form and then submit. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.5 Toxicity. Further information on chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency

(EPA) as human carcinogens may be found online at http://www.epa.gov/ebtpages/pollutants.html or from the Environmental Protection Agency, 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodians:

Navy – AS

DLA-CT

Review Activities: Preparing Activity:

Navy – NU Navy – AS

FIGURE 1. Flight Deck Jersey Front View

FIGURE 2. Flight Deck Jersey Back View