CR_PD_03-08.pdf

[INCH-POUND]

CR/PD 03-08

28 January 2003

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, ALL-WEATHER, MEN’S

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this purchase description for all Federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This document covers the requirements for men’s double-breasted all-weather coats made of water repellent-treated cloth, with a removable liner. The all weather coat is intended to be worn by male military personnel. The all weather coats are a modified commercial item, since they require a specific military appearance. (See paragraph 3.1)

2. CLASSIFICATION. The coat will be of the following types and sizes:

Type I – With Right and Left Gun Patches (Marine Corps) Type II – With a Right Gun Patch (Army)

Schedule of sizes

Extra Short Short Regular Long Extra Long

- 30 30 - -

32 32 32 32 - 34 34 34 34 34 36 36 36 36 36 40 40 40 40 40 42 42 42 42 42

- 44 44 44 44

- 46 46 46 46

- - 48 48 48

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textile Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRD, 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

CRD/PD-03-08

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1. Description. The coat (See figures 1, 2,and 3) shall have a double-breasted front with a 6 button closure, a convertible collar with button closure, a belt with buckle, a two-piece back with a center vent with a single button closure, a back yoke, split raglan sleeves, button-down pointed shoulder straps, button-down pointed sleeve straps, a ½ front and a ½ back lining with fully lined sleeves, and a removable liner (See figures 4, and 5). The coat front shall have two vertical welt pockets with pass through slits, a ¼ inch wide hanger loop at back neck with a minimum finished opening of 1-7/8 inches, and extra buttons sewn on right front facing. The Type I coat shall have right and left front flaps (gun patches); the Type II coat shall have a right front flap (gun patch).

3.1.1 Belt and buckle. The belt shall finish 2-1/8 + 1/8 inches wide and shall have a buttoned belt anchor on the left side with a belt loop keeper, fused interlining, and a buckle. The buckle shall be 2-1/4 inches and shall be the slide type shown in figure 6 and shall conform to the dimensions specified in figure 6. The color of the buckle shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.1.2 Belt loop placement. The coat shall have four belt loops, finishing 1/2 + 1/8 inch in length and 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide. The loops shall be securely bartacked at the top and bottom of loop. The loops shall be positioned as follows:

One loop on each front, approximately1/4 inch above and in line with front pocket seam line.

One loop on each side seam positioned in horizontal alignment line with the front loops.

The belt loop on the left side seam shall have an under loop for the belt anchor.

3.1.2 Shoulder straps. The shoulder straps shall be centered along the shoulder seam and the pointed end shall finish even to ½ inch from the collar setting seam. The shoulder straps shall finish smooth and flat with out distortion.

3.1.3 Sleeve straps. The sleeve straps shall be positioned on the back seam of the sleeve according to notches on the pattern. The pointed end of the sleeve strap shall finish even to ½ inch from sleeve topseam. The lower edge of the sleeve strap shall be parallel to the bottom edge of sleeve. The sleeve straps shall finish smooth and flat without distortion.

3.1.4 Label placement. The coat shall have a combination identification/instruction/size label permanently attached to the bottom right facing and shall not be visible when the coat is worn. The removable liner shall have a size label caught in the neck or side seam.

3.1.5 Removable liner. The removable liner shall have bound edges, set-in sleeves, two bound pass-through pocket slits and a center back vent. The liner's sleeve bottom shall be bound, forming a button loop on the underarm sleeve seam. The button loop shall accommodate a 27 ligne button. (See figures 4, and 5).

3.1.5.1 Slide Fastener. The slide fastener for attaching the liner to the coat shall be a separating, non-reversible right hand, light-size with an aluminum or brass chain and a short tab pull. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material and shall be 7/16 or 9/16 inch wide. The ends of the slide fastener shall be equidistant from the bottom edge of the coat.

3.2 Seams and stitches. All joining and topstitch seams shall have 10 to 12 stitches per inch. All safety stitch, serging or basting seams shall contain 8 to 10 stitches per inch. The width or bight of the overedge stitching shall be not less than 3/16 inch. The following components shall be bartacked or line tacked: One end of belt anchor to belt, belt keeper to inside of belt, top and bottom edges of belt loops to coat. The back lining shall be tacked to coat at the side seams. All bartacks shall have a minimum of 28 stitches per tack and shall be a minimum of 3/8 inch in length. Raise stitching and edge stitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edge. Safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch gage. All seams shall be sewn so that no raw edges, run offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that the stitching will not be tight or loose and the stitching shall be balanced. The ends of all seams not caught in other seams or stitching shall be backtacked not less than ½ inch.

3.2.1 Topstitching. The following components shall be finished with two rows of topstitching 1/16 inch from the edge with 1/4 inch gage utilizing lock stitching: shoulder straps, sleeve straps, collar, pocket welt, belt, top and front edges of the lapel, front edges of the coat and bottom of front facing, outside back yoke hem and gun patch(s). The side seams and top sleeve seams shall be safety stitched and two needle topstitched or two needle felled, 1/16 inch from the edge with 1/4-inch gage. The front and back sleeve seam shall have a single row of ¼ inch topstitching extending to step as marked on pattern. The left side of the back vent and the back seam shall have a single row of lockstitch ¼ inch from edge. The front and back lining shall have a 3/8 to 5/8 inch clean finished hem.

3.2.2 Buttonholes. The front and lapel buttonholes shall have a 1-1/4 inch cut opening, and shall be horizontal eyelet end vertical square-bar type, worked over gimp, with a minimum of 70 stitches (including bartack). The horizontal buttonholes shall be positioned in accordance with the pattern marker, three on the left front, one on the right front, and one on each lapel. Each shoulder strap and sleeve strap shall have a 7/8 inch eyelet end, square-bar type buttonhole positioned with cut opening centered, + 1/8 inch, on strap and 7/8 inch from pointed end of strap.

3.2.3 Buttons. The coat shall have eight 45 ligne buttons; three buttons on each front, one button on the inside left front with a shank wrapped 18 ligne anchor button to properly engage buttonhole on the right front, and one on the upper right front to correspond with the left lapel buttonhole. The right front buttons shall be set on a stand and attached to an 18 ligne stay button on the inside and then shank wrapped. The left front buttons shall be attached to 18 ligne stay buttons and shall be sewn with a tight stitch, they shall not be shank wrapped.

The coat shall have four 30 ligne buttons; one for each sleeve to interface with the sleeve strap buttonhole and one on each shoulder to interface with the shoulder strap buttonhole.

The coat shall have three 24 ligne buttons; one button shall be sewn on each sleeve lining to correspond with the loops on the removable liner sleeve’s bottom and one shall be positioned on the belt fastener.

Extra buttons, one of each size (45, 30, 24, and 18) shall be sewn on the lower inside right facing.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the outer shell and body lining of the coat shall be water-repellent-treated polyester/cotton poplin cloth. The cloth shall be a plain weave, and shall match the standard sample for shade, appearance, and colorfastness. The finished cloth shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified. The color of the cloth shall be Marine Corps Pewter 2246 for type I, Army Black 385 for type II and shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and have a correlated color temperature of 7000 + 500 Kelvin. The use of dyes or substances containing elementary sulfur compounds capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited.

TABLE I - BASIC MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Fiber content, +3 percent Polyester (min.)

Cotton (min.)

65 percent 35 percent

AATCC 20

AATCC 20

Weight, oz./sq. yd. 5.3 to 6.8 ASTM D3776 Yarn Ply Warp Fill

Single or 2 ply

Singles

Visual Visual

Yarns per inch (min.)

Filling

ASTM D3775

ASTM D3775

Weave Plain Visual Air permeability (max.) 10 ASTM D737 Breaking strength (min.)

185 lbs.

70 lbs.

ASTM D5034

ASTM D5034

Tearing strength (min.)

5.0 lbs.

2.0 lbs.

ASTM D1424

ASTM D1424

Water Repellency: Spray test Initial (min.)

After 1 dry-cleaning (min.)

100, 100, 90 70, 70, 70

AATCC 22

AATCC 158 & AATCC 22

Water Repellency: Tumble jar Dynamic absorption test Initial (max.)

After 3 launderings (max.)

18 percent 18 percent

AATCC 70

AATCC 70

Hydrostatic pressure Initial (min.)

After 3 launderings (min.)

After 1 dry-cleaning (min.)

AATCC 127

AATCC 127 &

AATCC 96, Text VI, A

AATCC 127 &

AATCC 158

TABLE I - BASIC MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS (continued)

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Resistance to Organic Liquid (N-Tetradecane) Initial (min.)

After 3 launderings (min.)

No wetting Not wetting

AATCC 118

AATCC 96, Text VI, A &

AATCC 118

Dimensional stability (max.)

2.0 percent

2.0 percent

AATCC 96, Text VI, A AATCC 96, Text VI, A

Colorfastness to:

Laundering, min, after 3 cycles 3.0 AATCC 61, 2A Perspiration, min. Grade 4 AATCC 15 1/ Crocking, min. Grade 2.5 AATCC 8 Light, min. Grade 4 AATCC 16-Option A

40 hrs. or Option E-170 kg pH 5.0 to 8.5 AATCC 81

Footnote:

1/ Except that the pH shall be 12.7 +0.2.

3.3.1.1 Toxicity. The cloth shall be given a water repellent treatment and the cloth shall show no toxicity when tested using the methods below:

a) Title 40, Code of Federal Regulations, 1994 Edition;

Section 798.4100 - Dermal Sensitization Section 798.4470 - Primary Dermal Irritation Section 798.4500 - Primary Eye Irritation Marzulli, F & H. Maibach "Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans", Advances in Modern Toxicology, volume 4, pg. 353-372, 1977.

b) As an alternative to animal and human testing, the contractor may provide information which certifies that the cloth is composed of chemicals and/or materials which have been safely used commercially where prolonged skin contact has occurred.

3.3.2 Removable Liner Materials.

3.3.2.1 Batting. The batting material for the body of the removable insulated liner shall be a thin, lightweight, double scrim batting composed of 65% polyolefin / 35% polyester, quilted with a minimum 5 +1/2 inch wide channels using 11stitches per inch between two layers of taffeta.

The batting for the body of the liner shall weigh a minimum of 4.6 oz. /sq. yd. (Weight excludes scrim) and shall be a minimum of 0.4 inch thick.

3.3.2.2 Taffeta. The taffeta shall consist of continuous filament 70 denier yarn, with a minimum of 100 yarns per inch in the warp direction and 68 yarns per inch in the filling direction, weighing 1.5 + 0.15 oz./sq. yd. when tested in accordance with ASTM D3775, and ASTM D3776, Option C, respectively, and the color shall be a good match to the basic fabric and shall have colorfastness requirements equal to that of the basic material when tested in accordance with the test methods listed for colorfastness in Table I.

3.3.2.3 Binding material. The binding shall be cut from the taffeta material specified in 3.3.2.2 and the color shall be a good match to the basic material and have colorfastness requirements equal to that of the basic material. Commercial binding is acceptable if the shade and physical properties are met.

3.3.2.4 Removable liner’s sleeve material. The material for the removable liner’s sleeves shall be a multi-filament acetate faced, combed cotton backed, 5 or 8 harness satin weave material weighing a minimum of

6.2 oz/sq yd when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776. The material shall have a minimum of 194 ends per inch and a minimum of 46 picks per inch when tested in accordance with ASTM D3775. The material shall have a minimum warp breaking strength of 76 pounds and a minimum filling breaking strength of 75 pounds when tested in accordance with ASTM D5034. The material shall be finished so as to provide a lustrous face and a napped back. The material for the removable liner’s sleeves shall show "good" colorfastness to gas fading, perspiration, and wet-drycleaning, and shall have a minimum rating of

3.5 to dry crocking and a minimum rating of 2.5 to wet crocking when tested according to AATCC 164, AATCC 15, AATCC 132, and AATCC 8, respectively, using the AATCC Chromatic Transfer Scale.

The material shall not shrink or elongate more than 4 percent in the warp direction nor more than 2 percent in the filling direction when tested as specified in AATCC 96, Text VI, A. The color of the finished cloth (face side) shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.3.3 Hanger loop material. The hanger loop shall be made from the basic material and shall be ¼ inch wide with a minimum breaking strength of 50 lbs. when tested in accordance with

ASTM D-5034.

3.4.4 Fusible interlining. The interlining shall be a nonwoven fusible material consisting of 85% polyester and 15% polyamide or 100% polyester, with a weight of 1.75 to 2.0 ounces per square yard, with a polyamide dot adhesive. The color shall be charcoal or black, and shall show a colorfastness to dry-cleaning (3 cycles) minimum rating of 3.0 when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. For optimum fusing results, specific fuse times and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the non-woven fusible.

3.4.5 Threads. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton-covered, polyester core, 36 - 45 Tex, 2 ply thread for needle, bobbin, or looper or 31 - 35 Tex, 2 ply thread for bobbin or looper.

The thread for button sewing shall be cotton-covered, polyester core thread, 61 - 70 Tex, 2 or 3 ply. The threads’ finish shall be non-staining and non-flame propagating. The threads shall be treated with a permanent water repellent and the color shall be a good match to the basic material. The threads shall have “good” colorfastness to wet dry cleaning when tested in accordance with AATCC 132.

3.4.6 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton conforming to Size No. 8, type I or II of A-A-50198. The gimp shall show “good” colorfastness to dry cleaning when tested as specified in A-A- 50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.7 Buckle. The plastic buckle (See figure 6) for the belt shall be made from a phenol-formaldehyde, cellulose filled molding material, having a minimum Izod impact strength of 0.46 foot-pounds per inch of notch. The size shall be 2.250 inches with an overall outside width of 1.625 +0.2 inches and length of 2.875 +0.2 inches, inner slot. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

All corners shall be rounded and have a buckle thickness of 0.421 +0.02 inches (reference figure 6). The front surface of all buckles shall be slightly curved with a pebbled surface to simulate leather and the outer rim shall be beaded to simulate stitching. The finished buckles shall be free of flash and the outside surface shall be produced by molding. The application of a finish or protective coating of lacquer or other finishing materials shall not be permitted. Knockout marks are permitted on the back of the buckles provided such marks are no deeper than 0.015 inch. The buckle shall have a minimum breaking strength of 100 pounds for lot sample average and 90 pounds for individual sample when tested as specified in 3.4.7.1. The buckle shall have a minimum impact strength of 7 inch-pounds for lot sample average and 5 inch-pounds for individual sample without evidence of cracking or breaking when tested as specified in 3.4.7.2.

3.4.7.1 Breaking strength. Breaking strength shall be determined on a pendulum type tensile machine.

The pulling grip shall have a speed at no load of 12 +1/2 inches per minute. Attachment of the buckle to the grips shall be accomplished by loops of webbing or other strap material passing around the side bars of the buckle with ends of the strips centered in the grips of the testing machine. Width of the material shall be 2 inches minimum and 2-3/16 inches maximum. Distance between grips at start of test shall be 6 inches.

Specimens shall be tested to failure with 3 tests per sample to the nearest pound. Breaking strength tests may be run under room temperature conditions for pre-production and inspection tests. However, in the case of referee tests, all specimens to be tested shall be conditioned at standard laboratory conditions, 73.5 +2o F and 50 + 4 percent relative humidity for a minimum of 40 hours.

3.4.7.2 Impact strength. Impact strength shall be tested in accordance with ASTM D256 with 3 tests per sample to the nearest 0.1 inch-pound. Impact tests may be run under room temperature conditions for pre-production and inspection tests. However, in the case of referee tests, all specimens to be tested shall be conditioned at standard laboratory conditions, 73.5 +2o F and 50 + 4 percent relative humidity for a minimum of 40 hours.

3.4.8 Buttons. The buttons shall be sewing hole buttons of a melamine formaldehyde composition conforming to the styles indicated in Table II. The buttons shall have a glossy finish and the color shall be a good match to the basic material. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking when tested as specified in 3.4.8.2 and shall conform to the characteristics specified in Table II.

Table II. Buttons

Button Placement Style 1/

Size Diameter

Lignes

Compression strength, lbs., Min. 2/

Thickness 3/

Lignes,Min.

Total Quantity per coat

Front & Inside anchor 20 or 21 45 800 7 8 Sleeve & Shoulder strap 20 or 21 30 800 5 4 Sleeve liner and belt 20 or 21 24 800 5 3 Stay Buttons 15 18 800 4 6

20 or 21 45 800 7 1 20 or 21 30 800 5 1 20 or 21 24 800 5 1

Extra Buttons

15 18 800 4 1

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Description of styles 20, 21 and 15.

2/ When tested in accordance with paragraph 3.4.8.1 3/ Thickness shall be reported to the nearest full ligne.

3.4.8.1 Compressive strength test. The buttons shall meet the minimum requirement when tested for compressive strength using an apparatus, which permits gradual application of the load either, by a manual or automatic hydraulic mechanism. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel, tested to failure. Failure is defined as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in the button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking). The load in pounds, which produces this failure, shall be recorded as the compressive strength of the button.

3.4.8.2 Chalking test. Buttons shall be immersed in a boiling solution of 0.8 percent by weight sulfuric acid for 10 minutes and immediately thereafter dried and examined by holding the buttons at arm’s length and examining them under a strong light. Any chalking as evidenced by a dry chalk-like appearance or deposit on the surface of the button shall be considered a test failure.

3.4.9 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the removable liner shall be an aluminum #2, separating, non-reversible, right-hand, light size, short tab pull. The lengths of the slide fasteners shall conform to the size coat, with a minimum length of 70 inches. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material.

Style 15 Style 20 & 21

3.4.10 Seam tape. The seam tape for the topstitched seams shall be a lightweight, thermally bonded open net structure formed from pure polyamide or polyester extruded adhesive and shall weigh a minimum of 0.5 ounces per square yard and a maximum of 1.0 ounces per square yard. The polyamide adhesive shall be nylon 6, 6,6, 11, 12 or any co-polymer blends thereof and shall be applied to the substrate by powder dot, paste dot, hot melt dot, bicomponent dot, sintered, or spunfused process. The polyester adhesive shall be polyester resin applied to the substrate by powder dot, paste dot, hot melt dot, bicomponent dot, sintered, or spunfused process. The color of the seam tape shall be natural. For optimum fusing results, specific fuse times and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible seam tape.

3.5 Labels.

3.5.1 Coat’s combination identification/instruction/size label. The combination identification/instruction/size label shall be white, commercial type, sewn in label (see 3.1.4). The label’s inscription shall be in bold face type and shall have a minimum font size of 10 points, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC 61-3A. The inscription’s legibility, the label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the coat. The label shall include, but not be limited to, the following information:

Coat, All-Weather, Men's 65% Polyester/ 35% Cotton (Example) SPO100-00-0-000 (Example) XYZ Manufacturing (Example)

Dry Clean Only After each dry cleaning, professionally retreat coat for water repellency

36 R (Example) NSN: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example)

3.5.2 Liner’s size label. Each removable liner shall have a white, commercial type size label (see 3.1.4).

The label’s inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in AATCC 61-3A. The inscription’s legibility, the label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the coat. The label shall be in bold face type and include the following information:

36 R (Example)

NOTE: The length (Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long and Extra-Long) may be abbreviated as follows:

XS, S, R, L, or XL.

3.5.3 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items.

The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials "UPC" must appear beneath the code. the bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label's location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.6 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of graded patterns or sample size with grade rules. Modifications to patterns may be made, but the design and finished measurements of the finished coat shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide for a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for shoulder strap, collar, sleeve straps, belt, and front facing. The patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for safety stitched seams and 1/2 inch seam allowance for double lapped, double stitched seams.

3.6.1 List of pattern parts. The pattern list in Table III is provided to insure that the pattern set is complete.

TABLE III - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

Material Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature of Pattern parts Basic material

BACK

FRONT

TOP SLEEVE

UNDER SLEEVE

FRONT FACING

COLLAR

COLLAR STAND

BELT

BACK VEN FAC

PKT FAC CORD

SLEEVE STRAP

SHOUL STRAP

TOP SLE CAP

PKT WELT

POCKET FACIN

FR FL UP GP 2

FR FL UP GP 1

OU BACK YOKE

BAK HANG PKT

FRN HANG PKT

FRO YOK LI

BACK YOK LIN

Back Front Top sleeve Under sleeve Front facing Collar Collar stand Belt Back vent facing Pocket facing, cord Sleeve strap Shoulder strap Top sleeve cap Pocket welt Pocket facing Front flap, upper right, gun patch, Type II Front flap, gun patch, Type I Outside back, yoke Hanging pocket, back Hanging pocket, front Front lining, yoke Back lining, yoke

Lining TOP SL LININ

UND SL LININ

Top sleeve Under sleeve

TABLE III - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS (continued)

Material Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature of Pattern parts Fusible interlining FR FAC INTER

BELT INTERLI

SH STR INTERL

Front facing Belt Shoulder strap

PK WE INTERL Pocket welt COLLAR INTER Collar COLL ST INTE Collar stand SLE STR INTE Sleeve strap TOP SLE REIN Top sleeve reinforcement UND SLE REIN Under sleeve reinforcement FR FL U GP F 2 Front flap, upper right, gun patch, Type II FR FL U GP F 1 Front flap, gun patch, Type I Liner Removable FRONT LINER

BACK LINER

TOP SL LINER

UND SL LINER

Front Back Top sleeve Under sleeve

3.7 Finished Measurements. The finished coats and belts shall conform to the measurements in Table IV, which are expressed in inches:

TABLE IV –COAT FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

SIZE Tol. 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Chest (1/) All Lengths +3/4 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57

Back Length (2/) X-Short +1/2 - 40-3/4 40 41-1/4 41-1/2 41-3/4 42 - - -

Short +1/2 42-1/2 42-3/4 43 43-1/4 43-1/2 43-3/4 44 44-1/4 44-1/2 -

Regular +1/2 44-1/2 44-3/4 45 45-1/4 45-1/2 45-3/4 46 46-1/4 46-1/2 46-3/4

Long +1/2 - 46-3/4 47 47-1/4 47-1/2 47-3/4 48 48-1/4 48-1/2 48-3/4

X-Long +1/2 - - 49-1/2 49-3/4 50 50-1/4 50-1/2 50-3/4 51 51-1/4

Sleeve Length (3/) X-Short +1/2 - 16 16 16 16 16 16 - - -

Short +1/2 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 -

Regular +1/2 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18

Long +1/2 - 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19

X-Long +1/2 - 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2

Belt Length (4/) All Lengths +3/4 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

FOOTNOTES:

The coat shall be placed flat on a table and measured as specified below:

1/ Chest: Twice the measurement taken with coat buttoned from folded edge to folded in line with pit of armhole.

2/ Back length: The measurement taken from center back seam from lower edge of undercollar to bottom edge of coat.

3/ Sleeve length: The measurement taken along the underarm seams from the base of armhole to bottom end of sleeve.

4/ Belt length: The measurement taken, with the belt in a flat position, along the center of belt from center of buckle to pointed end of belt.

3.7.1 Liner measurements. The liner shall conform to the measurements in Table V, expressed in inches:

Table V – LINER FINISHED MEASUREMENTS TYPES I & II

SIZE Tol. 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Chest (1/) All Lengths +3/4 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49

Back Length (2/) X-Short +1/2 - 33 33-1/4 33-1/2 33-3/4 34 34-1/4 - - -

Short +1/2 34-3/4 35 35-1/4 35-1/2 35-3/4 36 36-1/4 36-1/2 36-3/4 -

Regular +1/2 36-3/4 37 37-1/4 37-1/2 37-3/4 38 38-1/4 38-1/2 38-3/4 39

Long +1/2 - 39 39-1/4 39-1/2 39-3/4 40 40-1/4 40-1/2 40-3/4 41

X-Long +1/2 - - 41-3/4 42 42-1/4 42-1/2 42-3/4 43 43-1/4 43-1/2

Sleeve Length (3/) X-Short +1/2 - 14 14 14 14 14 14 - - -

Short +1/2 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 -

Regular +1/2 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16

Long +1/2 - 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17

X-Long +1/2 - - 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18

FOOTNOTES: The liner shall be placed flat on a table and measured as listed below:

1/ Chest: Twice the measurement taken with liner folded in half (down center back) and measured from front bound edge to back folded edge in line with pit of armhole and multiplied by two.

2/ Back length: The measurement taken from the center back neck edge to bottom of liner.

3/ Sleeve length: The measurement taken along the underarm seams from pit of armhole to the bottom of sleeve.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS.

The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with Public Law 94-580 and paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. Each coat and removable liner provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Visual examination. The coat shall be examined for the defects listed below that affect the appearance and serviceability of the completed coat.

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material and workmanship

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar, dye streak, area of no dye penetration

Any component part full, tight, omitted, improper, twisted or not cut as specified

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part Measurement of components not as specified, finished measurements not as specified Fronts uneven in length at top or bottom by more than 1/4 inch; front facing exposed on outside of front for a length of 1 inch or more Open or puckered seam, seams and stitching not as specified, needle chew, irregular stitching, any component part caught in unrelated stitching, any seam twisted or pleated, any stitching omitted or insecure, or a raw edge

Bartack, tack, or tacking omitted, insecure, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, or not as specified

Visible mend, pleat or crease Needle perforations clearly visible on outside Irregular stitching or stitching not as specified, or not specified stitches per inch

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material & Workmanship

Fusible omitted, any evidence of fusible bleed-through, bubbling, delamination or color change; fusible exposed

Seam tape omitted Any buttonhole with broken stitches, ragged edges, misplaced, omitted The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch Collar and Lapel Collar or lapel not uniform in size or shape, collar twisted, not smooth and flat, short or tight causing collar or lapel to turn out Front flaps Front flaps omitted, not positioned as specified, not specified size or shape Vent Vent opening reversed, vent sides uneven at bottom by more than 1/4 inch, not constructed as specified Hanger loop Hanger loop omitted, improperly positioned, or insecure Sleeves Sleeves set improperly Pockets Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch, pocket welt not uniform in size and shape, pocket opening not smooth and flat, pocket notch exposed on outside, pass through slits omitted or not properly positioned

Epaulets and sleeve tab

Epaulet or sleeve tab not uniform in size or shape or does not lay flat, sleeve tab uneven distance from bottom of sleeve by more than 1/2 inch, buttonhole not centered on epaulet or sleeve tab

Buckle Buckle omitted, defective or not as specified Buttons Any button misplaced, omitted, broken or defective, not attached as specified, button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness, any part of coat puckered or pleated by button sewing

Slide Fastener Slide fastener not functioning properly, pull detaches, slide binds or sticks, chain unmeshed, coat or liner twisted or distorted when slide fastener is engaged, slide fastener tape stitched to close to chain not permitting slide fastener to move freely. Slide fastener wavy or not lying smooth and flat, Slider positioned on right side of liner

Binding Binding omitted, twisted, or not securely caught on fabric, End of binding on liner sleeve bottom not finishing at underarm seam, or not formed into a loop to accommodate a 24-ligne button

Pressing Pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Thread, button or buckle color not as specified

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable, five or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8 inch or less or not removed; odor affecting serviceability

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified; barcodes omitted, not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; barcode not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Packaging Any coats not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.2 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING

The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Sources of Government documents.

Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act - Applications for copies should be addressed to: Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580

Code of Federal Regulations - Applications for copies should be addressed to:

U.S. Government Printing Office, Superintendent of Documents, Mail stop: SSOP, Washington, DC 20402-9328

7.2 Source of non-government documents.

7.2.1 AATCC Test Methods

8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration 16A Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light 16E Colorfastness to Light: Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light 20 Fiber Analysis Qualitive 22 Water Repellency: Spray Test 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial Accelerated

70 Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test 81 pH of the Water Extract from Bleached Textiles 96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool 118 Oil Repellency: Hydro Carbon Resistance Test 127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning 158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in perchloroethylene: Machine Method 164 Colorfastness to Oxides of Nitrogen in the Atmospheres Under High Humidities

Applications for copies should be addressed to: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215

7.2.2 ASTM Test Methods

D 737 Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus D 3775 Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric

D 3776 Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

Application for copies should be addressed to: American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959

7.2.3 U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine

Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans, Advances in Modern Toxicology, volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977 (Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach) - Applications for copies should be addressed to:

U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine Attn: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg. E-2100 Aberdeen Proving Grounds, MD 21010-5422

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodian:

Army - GL Navy - MC Preparing Activity:

DLA - CT

FIGURE 1.

All Weather Coat Front, Type I (Marine Corps)

FIGURE 2.

All Weather Coat Front, Type II (Army)

FIGURE 3.

All Weather Coat Back, All Types

FIGURE 4.

Removable Liner Front, All Types

FIGURE 5.

Removable Liner Back, All Types

FIGURE 6.

Belt Buckle, All Types