GL-PD 13-12E GFSU Unisex Trousers.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-13-12E

4 November 2016

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD 13-12D

15 June 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, FOOD SERVICE UNIFORM, UNISEX

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for one (1) type of trousers, food service uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Army.

1.2 Sizes. The trousers sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

X-Small X-Small X-Small X-Small --- Small Small Small Small --- Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium --- Large Large Large Large --- X-Large X-Large X-Large X-Large --- XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large --- XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large ---

NOTE: The above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 10 General Greene Ave., Natick MA 01760. ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC.

FSC 8415

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic)

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov).

https://assist.dla.mil/ https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 70 - Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test AATCC Test Method 130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launderings AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available for purchase online at http://www.aatcc.org).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D3512/D3512M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3884 - Standard Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Double Head Method) ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available for purchase online at http://www.astm.org).

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure – http://www.aatcc.org/

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/ or https://www.crcpress.com).

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted here or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promote economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard samples is referenced (see 6.4)

3.3.1 Basic material. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be twill weave 65 percent polyester/35 percent cotton, shall have the capability for soil release and resistance to stains and shall conform to the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1. The basic material shall be the color Army black 458.

TABLE I – Physical Requirements for basic material.

Characteristic Requirement Weight, Basic material (oz./sq. yd.) 6.9 (± 0.3) Yarns per inch (YPI), (minimum) Warp

Fill http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/ https://www.crcpress.com/

TABLE I – Physical Requirements for basic material - Continued

Breaking strength (pounds), (minimum)

Tear Strength (pounds), (minimum)

Dimensional stability (percent), (maximum)

Colorfastness to (minimum) Laundering - after three (3) cycles

Color change Staining

Perspiration Alkaline Acid Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/m2nm @ 420 nm) 1/ Crocking

Dry Wet

3-4

2.5

Abrasion (cycles), (minimum) 250 Drying time (minutes), (maximum) 57 Water Repellency (Dynamic Absorption), (maximum) Initial

After 30 launderings cycles

Pilling (minimum) 3 Soil Release (minimum)

After 30 laundering cycles

1/ AATCC Fading Units (AFU)

Sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

LOT SIZE (Yards) SAMPLE SIZE (Sample Units) 800 or less 2 801 up to including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

3.4.2 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester-covered in accordance with A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex Size 30-35. The color of the thread shall be black and a good match to the basic material. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

3.4.3 Webbing, elastic. The elastic webbing for the waist shall be bleached or unbleached and shall conform to Type II, Class 1 of MIL-W-5664. The elastic webbing shall be machine washable and dryable, be properly heat set and stabilized. The elastic for the waist shall be nylon, 1-1/4 (± 1/16)-inches in width. The elastic webbing shall be cut to a sufficient length to achieve both the 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements as specified in Table VI.

3.4.4 Slide fasteners/ zippers. The slide fastener for the fly shall be individual element and conform to A-A-55634, Type 1, style 4, size 5-7, single slider with short tab pull. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.2. The chain and pull shall be brass and the tape shall be black. Slide fastener lengths shall be in accordance with Table II.

TABLE II. Slide fastener lengths (inches).

X-short Short Regular Long X-long X-small 6 6 6 6 ----- Small 6 6 6 6 ----- Medium 6-1/2 6-1/2 6-1/2 6-1/2 6-1/2 Large ----- 7 7 7 7 X-large ----- 7 7 7 7 XX-large ----- 7 7 7 7 XXX-large ----- 7 7 7 -----

3.4.5 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing the waist closure buttonhole shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210. The color shall be black.

3.4.6 Button. The button shall be dull finish, 4-hole, 30 ligne, conforming to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, style 26. The color shall be black. The buttons shall be secured through all four (4) holes.

3.4.7 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in Table III shall conform to ASTM D6193. The seams shall be sewn with 11 (±1) stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 9 (±1) stitches per inch. Whenever two (2) or more methods, seams, or stitches are given for the same part of an operation, any one

(1) of them may be used. Where stitch Type 401 is used, the looper; that is the underthread, shall be on the inside of the trouser. On all double lapped seams the fold shall be toward the back.

Front and back seat seams shall face the same direction. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. The guides and knives on the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/8-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

TABLE III. Stitches, seams and stitching.

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type

Side seams, seat seams and inseams LSc-2 3/16 to 1/4-inch gage (double lap seam) 301 or 401

Attach waistband LScf-2 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Belt Loops EF-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge.

(each row of top stitching) 301 or 406

Topstitching on patch pockets LSd-2 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edge 301

All overedging EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch 503 or 504 Slide fastener attachment SSak-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from teeth 301 Top stitching for fly OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301 J-stitching on fly SSv-2 1 to 1-1/4-inches from front edge 301 Closure of side hanging pockets SSa-2 3/16 to 1/4-inches from edge 515, 516, or 519

Leg Hem EFb-1 Fold 3/4-inch and topstitch 1-inch from fold

3.4.7.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched no less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped no less than 1/2-inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

3.4.7.2 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs of Type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches, noted during inspection of the item, shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. When damaged thread has been removed, needle holes do not constitute damage to the material. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.4.7.3 Type 401, 503 and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.4.7.2 a. and b. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair 401 stitching.

3.4.8 Buttonhole. The buttonhole for the waist closure shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type worked over gimp with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch). The purling shall be on the outside surface. The stitch count for the buttonhole shall be no less than 108 stitches. The cut length shall be 3/4 to 7/8-inch.

The buttonhole shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the tack.

3.4.9 Bartacks. The bartacks shall measure 3/8 (± 1/16) inch long, 1/16 (± 1/32) inch wide.

The bartacks shall have no less than 28 stitches per bartack and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartack placement shall be as specified in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Bartack placement

Bartack Placement Number of Bartacks

Front fly opening – one (1) horizontal at base of fly superimposed over inside row of ‘J’ topstitching, through all plies; one (1) diagonal on the curve of the inside row of topstitching through all plies and right fly.

One (1) at top and bottom of each belt loop positioned horizontally. 2 One (1) at each uppermost corner of the back patch pocket positioned horizontally over both rows of topstitching.

Top and bottom of side hanging pocket openings – positioned horizontally (over stitch line of waistband at top, over the completed outseam at bottom.)

3.4.10 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

3.4.11 Thread ends. All thread ends that are visible on the finished pants shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch.

3.4.12 Repairs. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches, or splices are not permitted on the trousers.

3.5 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall contain a size label, identification label and care instruction label. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and care instruction label may be combined. The label shall be sewn inside at the center back waist caught in the waistband topstitching. Note: if a separate size label is used it shall be centered on top of the identification/care instruction label and caught in the waistband topstitching. The label shall show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with AATCC 135, Table I, (3), II, (A), iii.

3.5.1 Combination size/identification label. The combination size/identification label shall conform to Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn inside at the center back waist caught in the waistband topstitching. The label shall contain the following information:

SIZE

NSN

CONTRACT NUMBER

TROUSERS, FOOD SERVICE UNIFORM, UNISEX

65% POLYESTER/ 35% COTTON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

Lot number 1/

3.5.2 Combination identification/care instruction label. The combination identification/ care instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn inside at the center back waist caught in the waistband stitching and contain the following information:

TROUSERS, FOOD SERVICE UNIFORM, UNISEX

65% POLYESTER/35% COTTON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

Lot number 1/

CARE INSTRUCTIONS:

“Machine wash cold with like colors in mild detergent, Cold rinse.

Tumble Dry (low). Do not use bleach”

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible ink prior to shipment.

3.5.3 Bar code hangtag. Each Trouser shall have a barcode label/hangtag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the trouser when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the trouser. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.6 Design. The trousers shall have a covered front slide fastener fly closure, partially elasticized waistband (see figures 1 & 2) with seven (7) evenly spaced 3/8 (±1/16)-inch wide belt loops with a 2-inch belt loop opening. The loops are placed as follows: one (1) adjacent to each side seam; one (1) adjacent to the seat seam; one (1) loop on each front, centered between the side seam and finished end of waistband; and one (1) loop on each back, centered between the side seam and the seat seam. The waistband shall have a button and buttonhole closure.

The covered slide fastener fly has two (2) rows of “J” top stitching 1 to 1-1/4-inches from the fly edge 1/4-inch gage. The trousers shall have two (2) side hanging pockets, two (2) back patch pockets with mitered corners and straight hemmed legs. The dimensions of the back patch pockets shall be 7-1/4 (± 1/8) inches long by 5-3/8 (± 1/8) inches wide for sizes X-Small and

Small, and 7-1/4 (± 1/8) inches long by 6 (± 1/8) inches wide for sizes Medium through XXX- Large.

3.7 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly, and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns and shall not be altered in any way. The Government patterns provide for an allowance of 1/2-inch for all seams.

Minor modifications to the patterns are permitted to accommodate manufacture’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance or final finished measurements.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the trousers shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Abbreviation Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic Material

Front PD13_12-FRONT 2 Back PD13_12-BACK 2 Left Fly PD13_12-LF-FLY 1 Right Fly PC13_12-RT-FLY 1 Waistband Facing PD13_12-WB-FAC 1 Back Pocket PD13_12-BK-PKT 2 Side Hanging Pocket PD13_12-SD-HG-PKT 2

3.9 Finished Measurements. The trousers shall conform to the finished measurements in Table VI when measured as specified in Table VII.

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE VI – Finished measurements (inches).

Size 1/2

Waist relaxed

1/2 Waist stretched

1/2 Leg opening

Front Rise

Inseam X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

X-Small 13-1/2 15 8 11-3/4 12-1/4 12-3/4 13-1/4 --- 25-3/8 28-3/8 31-3/8 34-3/8 --- Small 15-1/2 17 8-1/2 12-1/4 12-3/4 13-1/4 13-3/4 --- 25-1/2 28-1/2 31-1/2 34-1/2 --- Medium 17-1/2 19 9 12-3/4 13-1/4 13-3/4 14-1/4 14-3/4 25-5/8 28-5/8 31-5/8 34-5/8 37-5/8 Large 19-1/2 21 9-1/2 --- 13-3/4 14-1/4 14-3/4 15-1/4 --- 28-5/8 31-5/8 34-5/8 37-5/8 X-Large 21-1/2 23 10 --- 14-1/4 14-3/4 15-1/4 15-3/4 --- 28-3/4 31-3/4 34-3/4 37-3/4 XX-Large 23-1/2 25 10-1/4 --- 14-3/4 15-1/4 15-3/4 16-1/4 --- 28-7/8 31-7/8 34-7/8 37-7/8 XXX-Large 25-1/2 27 10-1/2 --- 15-1/4 15-3/4 16-1/4 --- --- 29 32 35 --- Tolerance ± 1/2 Minimum ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2

TABLE VII – Method of measuring (with trousers lying flat and waistband buttoned).

Location Method

1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of trousers relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge. Tape measure shall be placed on the waistband midway between top edge and waistband topstitching.

1/2 Waist (stretched) Measure across top of trousers stretched, from folded edge to folded edge.

1/2 Leg opening With garment lying flat and relaxed measure from folded edge to folded edge at leg opening.

Front Rise Measure along center front seam from top of waist to crotch.

Inseam Measure seam from center of crotch to bottom of leg.

3.10 Toxicity. The finished trousers shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.11 Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the trousers shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The trousers shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The trousers shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

c. Component and end item inspections (see 4.4.1)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects as specified in Table VI and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table VIII.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection (see 3.1.2) shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.4 through 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQL) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

4.4.1 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.2 Component testing.

4.4.2.1 Basic material. The basic material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Physical requirements for basic material.

Paragraph Test Method

Weight, Basic material (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.1 Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M Yarns per inch, (YPI)

Warp

3.4.1 Table I

ASTM D3775

Breaking strength (pounds) Warp Fill

3.4.1 Table I ASTM D5034

Tear Strength (pounds) Warp Fill

3.4.1 Table I ASTM D1424

Dimensional stability (percent)

AATCC 135 1/

Colorfastness to Laundering (after 3 cycles) Perspiration

Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/m2nm @ 420 nm) Crocking

(Dry/Wet)

AATCC 61 (option 1A), 2/

AATCC 15, 2/

AATCC 16.3 3/ & 4/

AATCC 8, 5/

Abrasion (cycles) 3.4.1 Table I ASTM D 3884 Drying time (minutes) 3.4.1 Table I 6/ Water Repellency (Dynamic Absorption)

After 30 laundering cycles

3.4.1 Table I AATCC 70

1/ Pilling

3.4.1 Table I ASTM D 3512/D3512M

Soil Release Initial After 30 laundering cycles

AATCC 130

1/

1/ Laundering and drying conditions using AATCC 135 Table I, (3), II, (A), iii 2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC

Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ AATCC Fading Units (AFU) 5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference

Scale 6/ Apparatus and materials:

Wringer (motor driven) (see notes). Laboratory balance, accurate to 0.1g. White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper, 25 x 25 cm (see notes). Water, distilled. 250ml glass beaker.

Test specimens:

The fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65 (± 2) % RH and 70 (± 2)°F for a minimum of four (4) hours. Three (3) test specimens per sample, 2 x 2-inches.

Procedure:

1. Test shall be run in standard conditions, 65 (± 2) % RH and 70 (± 2)ºF.

2. Weigh the conditioned specimen using a laboratory balance accurate to 0.1g.

3. Place 100mls of distilled water into a 250ml glass beaker.

4. Submerge the specimen in the beaker of water for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged to insure complete wetting.

5. Remove the specimen and sandwich it between two (2) pieces of unused blotting paper. Pass the sandwich through the wringer with a dead weight load of 27.7 (± 0.5) kg.

6. Immediately place specimen on the balance with top door of the balance open and record wet weight. Manually monitor weight at set intervals until dry or use an automated balance with capability to weigh specimen until dry (see note). Record time to dry.

7. Repeat for remaining specimens. Average the three (3) specimens.

NOTES:

− American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) − Wringer, (motor driven) see AATCC 70 (footnote 11.2).

− Blotting Paper see AATCC 70 (footnote 11.3).

− Suitable Automation Software for a balance, Laboratories Inc. Web:

http://www.labtronics.com.

4.5 Visual examination.

4.5.1 End item examination. The finished examination sample size, acceptance quality limits and acceptance criteria shall be specified in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

4.5.2 End item visual examination. Each pair of trousers shall be subjected to visual examination. All defects shall be scored in accordance with Table IX which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the trousers. Material defects are defined in Section 1 of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

4.5.2.1 Visual examination defects. The trousers shall be examined for the defects as listed below in Table IX.

http://www.labtronics.com/

TABLE IX. Defects.

Examination Defect Classification Major Minor

Material Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

Component and assembly Any defective component 1/ Any component part omitted Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Labels Missing, illegible, or incorrect

Incorrectly placed or attached

Accuracy of seaming

Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/ Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/ Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2-inch Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified

Open seams More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch More than 1/4-inch

NOTE: One (1) or more broken or two (2) or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one (1) or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching

Not specified seam or stitch type Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

Stitch Tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching) Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

TABLE IX. Defects. – Continued

Stitches per inch

Less than minimum specified:

- one (1) stitch

- two (2) or more stitches

- More than maximum specified

NOTE: (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one (1) item 1/ 117 220 Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut form one (1) piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3-feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Components Component not in accordance with specification 120 Thread/Gimp Color or type not as specified 223 Slide Fastener Omitted, incorrect type, size or color 1/ 121 224 Button Not specified type, size or color

Misplaced, omitted, damaged, ragged, broken or defective 1/ Not located on waist where specified affecting closure

Construction Construction not in accordance with purchase description or patterns

Leg lengths Leg lengths differ by more than 1/2-inch from each other 125 Fly Non-functioning

Incorrect design, skewed J stitch line

Belt Loops Quantity not as specified 1/

Dimensions not as specified 1 / Location not as specified

Patch pockets Pocket construction not as specified Size not as specified 1/ Position not as specified Horizontal placement uneven by 1/2-inch or more (tilted) Alignment of pockets uneven by 1/2-inch or more

Bartacks Bartack omitted Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken Length or width not as specified

TABLE IX. Defects. – Continued

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner Human-readable-interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible Not attached to location specified Causes damage to the garment

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affecting serviceability but not seriously.

4.5.3 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources stimulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (±200)K, with illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)K.

4.5.4 Finished measurements. The finished measurements as specified in 3.9 and Table

VI shall be verified by measuring the garment according to the method in Table VII.

4.6 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished trousers are not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.10) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands.

Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are for wear by military personnel in the United States Army as part of the food service uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this Purchase Description.

b. Size required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 3.1.2 and 4.3)

f. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

g. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.10 and 4.6)

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to standard samples for shade and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Chef

Clothing Chef pants Cook

FIGURE 1. Front, and side views, Trousers, Food Service Uniform, Unisex

FIGURE 2. Back View, Trousers, Food Service Uniform, Unisex

CUSTODIAN: PREPARING ACTIVITY:

Army – GL DLA - CT