A-A-55232-Spec-HDU Trousers.pdf

A-A-55232 October 10, 1995

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MAN'S: HOSPITA-L DUTY LTNIFORM (HDU)

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description in preference to MIL-T-44291.

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for men's trousers made of twill weave, polyester/cotton cloth. The trousers are intended to be worn as part of the hospital duty or food handler's uniform by male personnel of the Department of Defense.

2. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

2.1 Salient characteristics. The trousers shall be dress type with sewn on waistband, hook and eye or button/buttonhole front closure with slide fastener, lined left-over-right front fly (bartacked at base), two front pockets (side seam or quarter top), uncut back darts, and two double or single corded back pockets with button/buttonhole tab on left pocket or both. The seat seam shall be adjustable by means of a seam outlet. The waistband shall be cut from basic material and shall be lined and interlined. There shall be seven (7) sewn belt loops for trousers sizes 30 through 36 and eight (8) for sizes 38 and up. All exposed raw edges shall be finished and the leg bottoms shall be hemmed. All pressure points shall be reinforced with additional stitching Bartacks shall be positioned to reinforce points of strain.

2.2 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written commercial item description and Figure 1, the written commercial item description shall govern.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

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2.3 Materials

2.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a 2/1 left hand twill for uniformity consisting of 65 (+ 5) percent spun polyester and the remaining percentage combed cotton. The cloth shall be bleached optical white and shall conform to the requirements in Table I.

2.3.2 Lining. The material for the left fly interlining, right fly lining, waistband lining and pocketing shall be white, woven, 100 percent polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon cloth. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements in Table I.

2.3.2.1 Interlining. The material for interlining the waistband may Se bleached or unbleached commercially accepted cotton buckram and shall conform to the requirements in Table I, or a natural color nonwoven interlining with a minimum weight of 3.0 oz./sq. yd.

2.3.3 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be white, polyester core with cotton or polyester covering, with a minimum breaking strength of 3.0 lbs.* An alternate thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be white, spun polyester thread with a minimum breaking strength of 2.2 lbs.*.

* When tested as specified in ASTM D-2256.

2.3.4 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be 100 percent cotton, bleached white, with a minimum breaking -strength of 6.5 lbs. when tested as specified in ASTM D-2256.

2.3.5 Buttons. The buttons shall be flat, 4-hole sewing style, 22-line, shade white to approximate the basic materia7l.

2.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye waistband closure shall have a nickel plated finish and shall be suitable for men's trousers.

2.3.7 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for closing the front fly shall be non-separating, non-reversible, and have a polyester continuous monofilament or brass chain, with automatic, cam or ratcheting lock, short tab pull, and bottom stop. The tape and the monofilament chain with slider shall be white.

TABLE I. - Material requirements

Characteristic Basic material Lining Interlining Test method Weight: (min.) oz./sq. yd. 6.8 3.6 4.5 ASTM- D3776 OPT. C Breaking strength: (min.)

pounds Warp Filling

- ASTM- D5034

ASTM- D5034

Colorfastness:

Laundering

Minimum rating

“4" - - AATCC 61 TM-3A

Shrinkage and elongation:

(max. ) Warp Filling

2.0 2.0

AATCC 135

AATCC 135

pH:

(min.)

(max.)

5.0 8.5

ASTM- D629

ASTM- D629

Tearing strength: (min.)

Warp Filling

5.0 4.5

ASTM- D1424

ASTM- D1424

Seam efficiency: Minimum rating 80 percent - - Test 5110 1/

1/ Tested in accordance with FED-STD-191, TM-5110 except that the needle shall measure 0.36 (± 0.001) inch across the blade at the eye, and the thread shall be as specified in paragraph 2.3.3.

2.4 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds.. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing.

The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN).

The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

2.4.1 Labels. A commercial-type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor's name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information.

2.5 Sizes and measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements in Table I.

TABLE I. Finished measurements in inches

Size 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 1/2 Waist 1/ 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Inseam 2/

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

1/ Measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge with front closed. The tolerance shall be + 1/4 inch for 1/2 waist measurement.

2/ Measure along inseam from crotch seam to bottom edge of leg. The tolerance shall be + -1/2 inch for inseam measurement.

NOTE: The lengths (X-Short, Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long) may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L and XL.

2.6 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single size pattern. The government patterns may be used to create the contractor's working patterns. However, the design of the patterns shall not be altered in any way. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government-furnished patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automation. However, the design and measurements of the government'-furnished pattern must be maintained for both working and commercial patterns.

3. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description; conforms to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract.

4.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government for at least 2 years.

4.2.1 Warranty. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial market beginning with the date of delivery of the individual items.

4.3 Visual examination. Each trouser shall be examined for the defects listed below in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Zl.4.

4.3.1 Defects. Any hole, cut, or tear; color not as specified; any part shaded; any spot or stain (visible on outside of trousers); raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed, or loose tension resulting in loose seams; any material defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship; any component part omitted or defective; -label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order; any requirement omitted or not as specified.

4.4 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. NOTES

6.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

6.2 Source of non-Government documents

ASTM Test Methods

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.)

AATCC Test Method

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

ANSI/ASQC Zl.4 - Sampling Procedures-and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036-8002.)

Custodians: Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:

Army - GL GSA - FSS Air Force - 45

Review Activities: Preparing Activity:

Army - MD DLA - CT Air Force - 32, 82

Project No. 8405-0201