FINAL GL-PD 19011A - Cloth Twill Polyester.pdf

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue

Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-19011A

18 February 2020

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-19011

15 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER AND POLYESTER/BLEND

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a twill weave polyester and polyester blend cloth.

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers polyester and polyester blend cloths in the following classes:

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 - Heavy weight, 4.3 oz/sq yd.

Class 2 - Medium weight, 2.9 oz/sq yd.

Class 3 - Light weight, 2.2 oz/sq yd.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

GL-PD-19011A

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

MIL-STD-3064 - Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of this document are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to DryCleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

https://www.ftc.gov/ http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.)

ASTM D629 - Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles

ASTM D3512/D3512M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling

Tester

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure -

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online https://www.crcpress.com.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 - Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2 and 6.3).

https://asq.org/ https://www.sdlatlas.com/ https://www.astm.org/ https://www.crcpress.com/

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Certification. All cloth, when purchased in lots by AAFES or a commercial supplier, shall be certified by the Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center (see 4.6 and 6.7).

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Cloth. The cloth shall be comprised of both or one of the following:

3.5.1.1 Polyester. The polyester shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

3.5.1.2 Cotton. The cotton shall be carded. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

3.5.2 Weave. The weave for Class 1 and 2 cloths shall be a two (2) up - one (1) down twill or a plain weave using staple or textured polyester yarns or using yarns spun from staple polyester and carded cotton. The Class 3 cloth shall be a two (2) up – one (1) down right hand twill weave using filament polyester yarns.

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Requirement

Characteristic Class 1 Class 2 Class 3

Fiber identification, percent

Polyester

Cotton

47 – 100

0 – 53

47 – 100

0 - 53

Weight, oz./sq. yd., min. 4.3 1/ 2.9 2.2

Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp

Filling

73 1/

46 1/

Breaking strength, lbs.(min.)

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Class 1 Class 2 Class 3

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

3.0

Pilling 2/ 4 pH 5 – 8.5

1/ For 100% polyester cloth a 15% minimum tolerance is permitted.

2/ Using ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

3.6.1 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyed cloth shall be “free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.7 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be natural, bleached or dyed as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.7.1 Colorfastness. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished cloth referenced in 3.6 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed below in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements.

Color

Evaluation

Dry

Heat

Light (1 cycle)(Color Change and Staining)

(40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm)@

420 nm) (min.) 1/

2/

Perspiration

(Acid &

Alkaline) (Color

Change and

Staining) (min.)

Crocking

Wet & Dry

(min.)

Wet

Drycleaning

(1 cycle) (Color

Change and

Staining)(min.)

Dark Colors

Light Colors

3-4

3-4

3-4 3-4

3-4

3-4

3.5

3-4

3-4

1/ (AFU) AATCC Fading Units

3.8 Face identification. The face of the cloth shall be identified as the face side by stamping the word “FACE” at each end of the piece. The letters shall not be less than 1/2-inch in height and the marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially.

3.9 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage, when fly-shuttle or shuttleless looms with tuck-in selvage are used. For all other shuttleless looms the width measurements shall be made between the last warp yarns on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).

3.10 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified

(see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 5.1.

3.11 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.2. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point value.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.5.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the visual examinations of 4.4.1 through 4.4.5 and the testing specified in 4.5 through 4.6.2, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and the acceptance quality limits (AQLs) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see

6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.4.1 Yard by yard examination. The yard by yard examination shall be as specified in

MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.2 Visual examination. Each roll shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.3 Roll identification and face identification examination. During the yard by yard examination, each roll shall be examined for the defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.4 Shade and finish appearance examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll shall be examined for shade and appearance as specified in MIL-STD-3064. Any roll off shade; shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finished appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.5 Length examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll shall be examined for defects specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table III. The methods of testing as specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed.

All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

TABLE III. End item testing.

Characteristic paragraph

Test Method

Fiber analysis:

Polyester

Cotton

Weave

Weight (min)

Yarns per inch

Breaking strength

Dimensional stability

Pilling pH

Labile sulfur

Colorfastness:

Dry Heat @ 350℉

Light, (40 AFU or 170 kJ /(m2nm)@

420 nm)

Perspiration, acid and alkaline

Crocking, wet and dry

Wet drycleaning (1 cycle)

Toxicity

Table I

3.5.2

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

3.6.1

Table II

Table II

3.11

AATCC 20A or ASTM D629 1/

AATCC 20A or ASTM D629 1/ 2/

Visual

ASTM D3776/D3776M

ASTM D3775

ASTM D5034

AATCC 158

ASTM D3512

AATCC 81

4.5.2

AATCC 117 3/

AATCC 16.3, Option 3 3/

AATCC 15 4/

AATCC 8 5/

AATCC 132 4/

4.6.2

1/ In case of dispute, the ASTM Method prevails.

2/ The cotton content shall be calculated as follows:

Cotton content, percent = R/S x 100

R = Weight of residual fibers

S = Weight of dry desized specimen

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

4/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC

Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale.

4.6 Methods of testing and inspection.

4.6.1 Presence of labile sulfur. In the determination of labile sulfur presence in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2) 1.50 gram (± 0.01) gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 millimeters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a 5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube.

The lead acetate solution contains 5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100 milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear, add a few drops

(one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows.

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration of staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

The rating shall be recorded. The results hall be recorded as “pass” or “fail”.

4.6.2 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.11) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.7 Certification. When the cloth is purchased individually or in lots, by AAFES or a commercial supplier, the supplier shall obtain certification as specified in 3.4, and provide their assigned certification number to the purchaser to ensure that the item has been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description

(see 6.7).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of cloth is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the

Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department of Defense

Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Departments or Agencies automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of linings for dress uniforms worn by Army personnel as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2, and 6.3).

e. Color required (see 3.7).

f. Width of cloth required (see 3.10).

g. Length and put-up, if other than specified (see 3.11).

h. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.6.2).

i. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

j Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

k. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.6 Replica Set. The SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Set is not available from their website at this time. Recommend calling customer service 1-803-329-2110.

6.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact US Army, Combat Capabilities Development

Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN:

FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.8 Summary of changes since last revision.

a. Included MIL-STD-3064 for evaluating quality of textile materials.

b. Updated format and typographical errors where required.

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Dress Uniforms

Linings

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army – GL Army - GL