Attachment 01 - SPEC 325-200814-PKA-COMBINED.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 325

PARKA, CADET, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

14 AUGUST 2020

Revisions from the previous edition dated 24 July 2017:

1. Changed specification date.

2. Updated specification for cuffs to Type III, class 2 (Polyester).

USAFA CU 325

PARKA, CADET, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification outlines the requirements for one type of parka for the United States Air Force Academy, CO.

1.2. Classification. The coats shall be of the one type in the following classes.

Class 1: Men’s Class 2: Women’s

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. The garments shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes. Slide fastener lengths are identified in the size cell. Slide fastener for the hood of the men’s coat shall be 13” and that of the women’s coat shall be 12”.

Front Opening (Length-Inches) Plus or Minus ½”

TABLE I – SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Length X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

Size M W M W M W M W M W SMALL 19 n/a 20 18 22 20 23 22 24 23 MEDIUM 19 n/a 20 18 22 20 23 22 24 23 LARGE 19 n/a 21 18 23 20 24 22 25 23 X-LARGE 19 n/a 21 n/a 23 n/a 24 n/a 25 n/a

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS:

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS:

A-A-55634A Zippers (Fastener, Slide, Interlocking) A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-50199A Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-55198 Cloth, Melton, Wool (Moth-Proofed)

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS:

MIL-B-371F Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-F-495 Finish, Chemical, Black, for Copper Alloys MIL-C-3735E Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-DTL-32075 Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS:

V-T-285 Thread, Polyester

STANDARDS

COMMERCIAL STANDARDS:

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 ANSI Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

MILITARY STANDARDS:

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM STANDARDS:

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches, Seams and Stitching

FEDERAL STANDARDS:

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

202-231-5554

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

https://assistca.dla.mil/

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927 Phone: 212-947-7774

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ANSI

1899 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 202-293-8020

2.3. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished coat of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations. Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived.

Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric shall be cloth, melton, wool (moth-proofed), 22-ounce, conforming to Type II, Blue 3346 of Specification A-A-55198. The approximate average utilization for an average USAFA order is 2.75 linear yards, 60” wide fabric.

3.3.2 Cuffs. The cuffs shall be black. The finished cuffs, doubled, shall measure 4” in length after being sewn into the sleeves. The cuffs shall measure 9 1/2” and, when doubled, shall measure 4 3/4”. The cuffs shall be Type III, Class 2 of Specification MIL- C-3735 (polyester).

3.3.2.1 The weight shall be a minimum of 11 ounces per square yard.

3.3.2.2 The wales per inch shall be a minimum of 12, and the courses per inch shall be a minimum of 14.

3.3.3 Slide Fasteners. Slide fasteners for the front closures shall be a size 10 brass, left-hand separating, Type III, automatic, Style 8, with long tab pull. Slide fasteners for the hood closures shall be brass non-separating, Type I, automatic, Style 4, Size 5, with short tab pull, in accordance with Commercial Item Description A-A-55634. Brass components of the fasteners shall be finished with a black chemical finish conforming to MIL-F-495, and color shade of the tapes shall be black to match the basic parka fabric.

3.3.3.1 Slide fastener colored tape shall show at least fair

colorfastness to dry cleaning and shall show good colorfastness to weathering.

3.3.3.2 Front Slide Fasteners. The length of the front slide fastener shall extend from the hood joining seam at the neck to 9” (+ 1/2”) from the bottom hem of parka, as indicated by the pattern notches.

3.3.4. Binding. The binding for the seams and raw edges shall be a commercial cotton cloth or tape, black, bias cut 1 1/2” (+/- 1/8”) wide and be folded to finish 3/4” wide.

3.3.5. Embroidered Patch. The acronym USAFA shall be embroidered in white on a patch of the black basic fabric. The edges shall be merrow stitched edges. The letters shall be 1 1/2” high by 1” wide by 1/4” line width (see figures 1 and 2 for the lettering samples and placement instructions).

3.3.6. Labels. Each coat shall have a contractor’s label and a removable paper size ticket.

3.3.6.1. Combination Contractor, Identification, and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated conforming to Type I, Class I of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be able to accept pen as a permanent mark and be able to withstand dry cleaning. Each coat shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939. The wool contents must be included in the combination contractor and identification label. The label shall finish not less than 2” wide by 3 1/2” long (the printing shall be along the 3 1/2” length) and show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

**Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3.3.6.2. Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial paper construction. The letters and numbers shall be 1/4” high. The code 39 bar code shall be ½” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. The size ticket shall be tacked on the lower part of the left sleeve, above cuff, on the outside. The ticket shall show the size of the coat, for example:

XSM/REG SM/REG MED/REG LG/REG XL/REG

3.3.7. Hanger Braid. The hanger shall be black, 3 1/2” finished length (+/- 1/4”) long, conforming to Type III of Specification MIL-B-371.

3.3.8. Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, and sewing USAFA patch shall be machine-twist, silk-finish (glazed), black, conforming to the requirements for Ticket Nos.

30/3 and 40/3, Type 1B3, of Specification A-A-52094. As a contingency poly-core

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction * thread A-A-50199A may be used for seaming, stitching, merrow stitch and embroidering USAFA patch.

3.4 Design. The design of the parka shall be as shown in Figure 1 of this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns and specifications. The parka shall have two diagonal slash welts inside patch pockets.

The hood shall be a double thickness of the basic material. The parka shall have two slide fasteners, one for the hood and one for the front closure. The women’s parka shall have darts at the front neck line and at the bust line. The end of the sleeves shall have rib-knit cuffs. Sizes shall be as indicated in Table I.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns provide for a 3/4” seam allowance for the fronts and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified here-in. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns.

The working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The contractor shall have the ability to develop and grade working patterns to all sizes required by the procuring activity.

3.6. Construction. The parka shall be constructed in accordance with the operations as shown in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed.

3.6.1. Stitches, Seams, and Stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in Table II, shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193.

3.6.1.1. Stitches per Inch. The number of stitches per inch specified in Table II shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum number of stitches per inch permitted.

3.6.1.2. Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all thread types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2 to 1 inch.

3.6.2 Shade and Size Marking. The component parts of the parka and liner shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the parka.

Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of any ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the parka.

3.6.3. Pressing. Unless specified, all pressing specified in Table II shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine.

3.7. Workmanship. The quality of manufacture shall be controlled to guarantee conformity with the standard of workmanship established in this specification, or comparable construction. The finished parka shall be clean and free from defects.

3.8 Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The parka shall be made in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed unless otherwise specified. An additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the threads are removed or do not show on the finished parka.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

1. CUTTING OF MATERIALS

a. The fabric shall be laid on cutting table face-to-face with no tension.

b. All components shall be cut out of the same piece of material with the nap of the fabric running down.

c. Notches for the proper assembling of the garment shall be inserted.

d. The patterns shall be laid in the direction of the cutting lines on the patterns, which indicate the nap direction.

e. Drill marks may be used to indicate the location of the pockets.

f. The inside patch pockets may be cut from ends.

g. All damages and imperfections appearing in any of the components shall be replaced from the same piece of material before leaving the cutting table.

2. SHADE MARKING.

a. All component parts of the parka shall be shade marked to insure that the nap throughout the parka is running down.

3. MAKE SLEEVES.

a. Bind sleeve underarm seams and top of sleeve and press open.

301 BSc-1-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Join underarm seam 3/4”. 301 SSa-1-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

c. Overcast bottom edges of sleeve with knit cuff.

503 or

SSa-1 8-10 40/3 2/26

d. Sew on knit cuffs 1/2” gauge. The finished length of the cuffs shall be 4 inches.

301 LSq-2a 10-12 30/3 30/3

e. Raise stitch sleeve terminals above cuffs

3/8” gauge.

301 LSq-2b 6-8 30/3 30/3

4. MAKE HOOD.

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

a. Attach zipper onto the hood according to notches on pattern on right and left side of hood. The zipper tape shall expose 1/8” +/- 1/16” on finished hood. The zipper tape shall be attached without puckering at any point.

Tape shall start 1/2” from front of the hood and finish to center of hood at back. The left and right part of hood shall finish even at front when hood is closed. Raise stitch 3/8” gauge stitching. At the end of zipper, put a triangular stitch through and through top of hood.

301 SSa-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Join inner and outer hood, leaving neckline open 1/2” gauge.

c. Trim and turn Hood.

d. Raise stitch hood 3/8” gauge 301 SSq-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

5. MAKE FACINGS.

a. Bind inner edge of facing. 301 or

BSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Sew contractor’s label on left facing 16” up from bottom of parka.

6. MAKE DOUBLE WELT POCKETS.

a. Bind pockets 301or 401 BSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Sew upper and lower welt to outside of parka 1/2” gauge. Edges of welt shall butt together evenly.

c. Cut between welt stitching notching into corners.

301 LSb-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

d. Turn lower welt under and raise stitch 1/2” gauge and 1/8” gauge from edge.

301 LSb-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

e. Turn upper welt under and sew 1/8” gauge. Stitching to go through patch pocket.

Turn under cut corners and tack.

f. Stitch around patch pocket 3/16” gauge.

Pocket welts shall butt together evenly catching the ends of the butt welts securely

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom front and back and catching the back part of welts in stitching of pocket patch.

g. After welts are abutted, they shall be top stitched through and through the pocket ends.

h. Stitch top welt through and through pocket.

i. Pocket opening shall finish 6 1/4” for small and medium, and 6 3/4” for large and X-large.

6a. MAKE DARTS. (Women’s Parka ONLY)

The front neck darts and bust shall be tapered on the inside with no twists or puckers. Thread ends at lower end of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2” in length. The neck darts shall be pressed toward the center front and the bust darts shall be pressed downward.

301 BSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

7. MAKE PARKA.

a. Bind underarm and shoulder seams of fronts.

301 or

b. Join fronts and back at underarm and shoulder. Fronts 3/4” gauge, backs 3/8” gauge.

c. Raise stitch underarm and shoulders, 3/8” gauge, stitching shall be on backs.

301 LSb-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

d. Front slide fastener. Attach the slide fastener to the right and left fronts of the parka ¼” below the neckline. The slide fastener shall end 9” above bottom edge of finished parka, +/- ½”, on all sizes. The front edges covering the fastener shall not overlap, nor shall the fastener be exposed when closed. Slide fastener tape shall be caught in the stitching of the hood. The slide fastener tape shall be attached without puckering at any point. The finished bottom of the parka shall be even on the right and left fronts.

e. Sew facings to front 1/2” gauge. Trim 301 SSa-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom bottom front corners and turn.

f. Sew outer hood to neckline of parka 1/2”

g. Sew facing and hood lining to neckline

1/2” gauge, hanger in seam center back.

h. Turn under hood lining at neckline and seam between ends of facing 1/8” gauge.

301 LSb-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

i. Bind bottom of parka. 301 or

j. Turn up bottom hem 1 1/4” and seam 1/8”

301 Efa1 10-12 30/3 30/3

k. Sew in sleeves, matching notches 3/4” gauge; armhole body 3/8” gauge.

301 LSq-2a 10-12 30/3 30/3

l. Raise armhole seam 3/8” gauge; stitching shall be on body.

301 LSq-2b 10-12 30/3 30/3

m. Raise stitch fronts of parka 3/8” gauge. 301 SSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

n. Blindstitch facings to parka body from top of facings to top of pockets. Stitching shall not be exposed onto fronts or be tight, causing puckering.

301 or

Blind Stitch

10-12 40/3 40/3

o. Tack bottom of facing at junction of pocket and facing securely. This is hand-felling silk.

8. SEW ON USAFA PATCH. 301 SSa-1 10-12 40/3 40/3

a. Sew the USAFA patch in a straight line on upper left chest according to dimensions given in Figures 1 and 2.

9. EXAMINE PARKA.

a. Compare all shade marking tickets and direction of nap.

b. Examine all operations.

c. Examine parka for damages, spots, stains, and imperfections in fabric.

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

/Bottom

d. Trim all thread ends.

e. Inspect for nap going all one way (down).

10. PRESS PARKA.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met. When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table IV. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL INSPECTION

LEVEL LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

This table shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4.6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect.

TABLE III - PARKA FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Size Back Length +½ 1/2 Chest/Bust +½ Sleeve Inseam Length +½

Men’s:

Small, X-short 31 22 1/2 15 1/2 Small, Short 32 22 1/2 16 1/2 Small, Regular 33 22 1/2 17 1/2 Small, Long 34 22 1/2 18 1/2 Small, X-long 35 22 1/2 19 1/2

Medium, X-short 31 1/2 24 1/2 15 1/2 Medium, Short 32 1/2 24 1/2 16 1/2 Medium, Regular 33 1/2 24 1/2 17 1/2 Medium, Long 34 1/2 24 1/2 18 1/2 Medium, X-long 35 1/2 24 1/2 19 1/2

Large, X-short 32 26 1/2 15 1/2 Large, Short 33 26 1/2 16 1/2 Large, Regular 34 26 1/2 17 1/2 Large, Long 35 26 1/2 18 1/2 Large, X-long 36 26 1/2 19 1/2

X-large, X-short 33 1/2 28 1/2 16 X-large, Short 34 1/2 28 1/2 17 X-large, Regular 35 1/2 28 1/2 18 X-large, Long 36 1/2 28 1/2 19 X-large, X-long 37 1/2 28 1/2 20

Women’s:

Small, Short 28 1/2 19 1/2 16 Small, Regular 30 1/2 19 1/2 17 Small, Long 32 1/2 19 1/2 18 Small, X-long 34 1/2 19 1/2 19

Medium, Short 29 1/4 21 1/2 16 Medium, Regular 31 1/4 21 1/2 17 Medium, Long 33 1/4 21 1/2 18 Medium, X-long 35 1/4 21 1/2 19

Large, Short 29 3/4 23 1/2 16 Large, Regular 31 3/4 23 1/2 17 Large, Long 33 3/4 23 1/2 18 Large, X-long 35 3/4 23 1/2 19

Back length - This measurement shall be measured from hood seam to bottom of parka in center back.

1/2 Chest/Bust - This measurement shall be measured from outside edge to outside edge at base of armhole, with the slide fastener closed and the parka laid out smooth and flat.

Sleeve-inseam measurement - This measurement shall be measured along the sleeve inseam from the armhole seam to the top of the knit cuff.

TABLE IV GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS

DEFECT - Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

A. Material Defects and Workmanship Damages. When the weakening or non-weakening conditions of the material defects are inconspicuous and have a negligible effect on serviceability, they shall not be classified as defects.

Workmanship damages that are weakening or non-weakening but are inconspicuous and have a negligible effect on serviceability shall be classified as Minor B defects. Material defects and workmanship damages shall be classified as follows only when the condition is one that definitely weakens the fabric or when it is so conspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable:

1. Any weakening defect such as a smash, multiple float, loose slub, etc. that may develop into a hole.

2. Hole - scissors or knife cut, tear, mend, or burn. *

3. Shade bar or unsightly slub.

a) On outside. *

b) On inside (except sleeve linings) X

4. One or more exposed drill holes. *

5. Nap not going proper direction. *

B. Cleanliness.

1. Any spot or stain on outside. *

2. Thread ends not trimmed. X

C. Component and Assembly.

1. Any component defective. *

2. Any component part omitted. *

3. Any required operation omitted or improperly performed, affecting appearance or serviceability.

D. Cutting. Any component part not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

E. Seams and Stitching.

1. Accuracy of seaming.

a. Twisted, puckered, or pleated seam. *

b. Part of the garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching, *

c. Thread(s) used on the outside not the same shade or not satisfactorily matching the shade of the garment.

X

d. Thread breaks or end(s) of stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backstitched.

classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

e. Ends of a continuous line of stitching not overlapped or overlapped less than 1/2 inch.

f. Looper thread of 401 stitch type exposed on outside of coat. X

2. Gauge of stitching (edge, top or raised, stitching):

a. Irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance.

b. Not within range of gauge specified or varied more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified.

3. Open Seam. (A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or runoff stitches, except on edge, top, or raised stitching, shall constitute an open seam.)

a. Over 1/8” to and including 1/4”. X

b. Over 1/4” X

4. Stitches skipped or broken (on edge, top, or raised stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched).

a. Over 1/4” to and including 1/2”. X

b. Over 1/2” to and including 1”. X

c. Over 1”. X

5. Raw Edges. (A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be scored as an open seam).

a. Outside.

1) Over 1/8” to and including 1/4”.. X

2) Over 1/4” to and including 1/2”. X

3) Over 1/2”. X

b. Inside.

1) Over 1/2” to and including 1”. X

2) Over 1”. X

6. Runoffs.

a. On joining seams, when resulting in open seam, score as open seam. X

b. On edge, top, or raised stitching when not resulting in open seam (outside only).

1) Over 1/2” to and including 1”. X

2) Over 1”. X classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

F. Binding Inside.

1. Binding not caught on fabric 1/8” but not more than 1/4”. X

2. Binding not caught on fabric 1/4” but not more than 3/4”.. X

3. Binding finished less than 3/4” but not less than 5/8”. X

4. Binding finished less than 1/2”. X

5. Binding omitted on garments. X

G. Shaded Parts.

1. Outside parts shaded (visible when garment is worn). *

2. Binding not proper shade. X

3. Nap wrong direction. X

H. Slide Fasteners - Front and Hood.

1. Not type or size specified. X

2. Garment part stitched too close to metal chain, not permitting slider to pass.

3. Top end of fastener tapes not caught under stitching of hood. X

4. Not proper shade of tape. X

5. Not proper shade of metal. X

6. Any part of assembly omitted, bent, broken, or otherwise defective, affecting function.

7. Tape set on too loose or too tight, causing bulge, twist, puckering, or fullness on closed front.

8. Top ends of tape not caught in at top of facing and hood seam, or not turned under when stitched.

9. Bottom end of tape not caught in joining seam. X

10. Ends of slide fastener chain uneven at bottom by more than 1/4” but not more than 1/2”.

11. Ends of slide fastener uneven at bottom by more than 1/8” but no more than 1/4”.

12. Hood, Front and Back.

a. End of slide fastener at front of hood uneven when closed.

(1) 1/8” or less. X classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

(2) By more than 1/8” but not more than 1/4”. X

(3) More than 1/4”. X

13. Top end of zipper on hood not triangularly stitched. X

I. Blindstitch Facing.

1. Exposed stitching on fronts affecting appearance. X

2. Stitching causing impressions. X

3. Twisted causing puckers affecting appearance. X

J. Pocket Opening.

1. Small and medium

a. More than 6 1/2” but not more than 6 3/4”. X

b. More than 6 3/4”. X

c. Less than 6 1/4” but not less than 6”. X

d. Less than 6” X

2. Large and extra large.

a. More than 7” but not more than 7 1/4”. X

b. More than 7 1/4”. X

c. Less than 6 3/4” but not less than 6 1/2”. X

d. Less than 6 1/2” X

4.3.2.2 Detailed Defects. Detailed defects shall be classified as follows:

A. Fronts and Front Closure.

1. Length of closed fronts uneven at neck 1/4” or more or at bottom 1/2” or more.

2. Slide fastener

a) Tape exposed less than 1/16” or more than 1/8” beyond edge of metal chain.

b) Tapes set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging on opening, affecting appearance.

c) The zipper not ending 9” from the bottom edge of finished parka, +/- ½”.

classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

d) Front edges overlapping. X

B. Bottom Hem.

1. Badly twisted, affecting appearance. *

2. Hem not even, affecting appearance. *

C. Welts.

1. Not in uniform appearance. *

2. Not in uniform width.

a. More than 1/2” wide but not more than 5/8”. X

b. More than 5/8”. X

c. Less than 1/2”. X

3. Not butting evenly. X

4. Nap not going down on both welts, causing shading appearance. X

D. Pockets.

1. Left and right not in corresponding horizontal position, affecting appearance.

2. Out of alignment.

a) By 1/2” or more but not more than 1”. X

b) More than 1”. *

3. Notch raw edge exposed at corners or corners puckered or pleated affecting appearance

4. Ends of abutted welts not caught in stitching when attaching patch pocket to parka. (See Figure 3)

a) Front abut welts. X

b) Back abut welts. *

5. Welts not stitched through and through at pocket ends. *

6. Top welt not stitched through and through to pocket. ` *

E. Sleeves.

1. Sagging, twisted, bulging, or short caused by shortness, tightness, or not positioning correctly in armhole.

classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

2. Sleeve overlapping body parts at joining seam. X

3. Raised stitching around the armhole omitted. *

4. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area at armhole affecting appearance.

F. Knitted Cuff.

1. Knitted cuffs twisted in the attachment to sleeve bottom, affecting appearance.

2. Irregular in length. X

a. Length not finishing 4” +/- 1/4”. X

b. Variation in length in one sleeve. X

3. Raised stitching on seam around sleeve between terminals omitted X

4. Overcast stitch edge of cuff and terminals of sleeve omitted. X

G. Back Part and Side Seams.

1. Fronts overlapping backs at side seams. *

H. Lettering - USAFA.

1. Not attached in a straight line across front left chest. X

2. Not sewn on breast in accordance with Figure 1 and Figure 2. X

I. Inside of Coat.

1. Hanger.

a. End(s) not securely stitched. X

b. Finishing less than 3” or more than 4” long X

c. Less than 3/8” wide. X

d. Off center with center of back by 1” or more. X

e. Stitched or bartacked through outer shall. X

2. Labels.

a. Identification label.

1) Missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible. X

2) Information (other than size ) missing, incorrect, or illegible. X classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

3) Not stitched on four sides to pocket lining. X

b. Wool-content label when information not incorporated in the identification label missing, incorrect, or illegible.

3. Darts (Women’s Only).

1.) Omitted X

2.) Not stitched full width X

3.) Neck darts not pressed toward center X

2.) Bust darts not pressed downward. X

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1. Shipping Protection. The Garments shall be packaged in a manner that shall afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment to the USAF Academy for immediate use.

5.2 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order the interior and exterior packages shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The Garment covered by this specification is intended for use as a component of the Dress Uniform worn by cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2. Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Classification required

c. Quantity required by size

d. Availability of sample

e. Requirements for Bid Sample

f. Requirements for First Article

g. Government furnished basic fabric

h. Any special markings required

i. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (See 5.1, and 5.2).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample USAFA color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

USAF Academy Cadet Uniforms Section (10 LRS/LGRCU) Colorado Springs CO 80840 USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

Reviewing Activity:

Cadet Logistics Chief (10LRS/LGRC)

USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

Figure 1 - Men’s Coat

Figure 1 (con’t) - Women’s Coat

Note:

1. Patch and lettering shown are approximately actual size.

2. The USAFA patch shall be placed not less than 2” and not more than 2 ¼” in from the front edge of the parka (see Figure1).

3. For men’s coats the top edge of the patch shall be placed 8” +¼”, down from the intersection point of the shoulder seam and hood seam (see Figure 1). For women’s coats it shall be 7” +¼”.

Figure 2

Figure 3

STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments which shall help achieve procurement of suitable products at reasonable cost and minimum delay, or shall otherwise enhance use of the document. USAFA contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/vendors who are prospective suppliers of the product are invited to submit comments to the government. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document. If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in an envelope addressed to Cadet Uniform, 34TH TRW/SDCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210.

DOCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

NAME OF ORGANIATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

Direct Government Contract

Subcontract

1. HAS ANY PART OF THE DOCUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED

INTERPRETATION IN PROCUREMENT?

A. Give paragraph number and wording.

B. Recommendations for correcting deficiencies.

2. COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TO RIGID

3. IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?

4. REMARKS

SUBMITTED BY(Printed or typed name and address - Optional)

TELEPHONE NO.

DATE