Description.docx

29 October 2010

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, MELTON, WOOL; WOOL AND NYLON

USMA Local Stock Number C0255

Superseding Natick Laboratories Purchase Description #321 of 9 May 1967

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. - This purchase description covers wool; wool and nylon, melton cloths.

1.2. Classification.- The cloth shall be of the following types (see 6.2):

1.2.1. Type I - 10.9-11.6 ounces per square yard – All Wool.

1.2.1.1. Color: Cadet Gray. (See 3.4.1.1.)

1.2.1.2. Color: Black. (See 3.4.1.2.)

1.2.2. Type II - 18-20.5 ounces per square yard – Wool and Nylon.

1.2.2.1. Color: Black. (See 3.4.2.)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. - The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents. - Copies of these documents and publications are available online at http:assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia PA 19111-5094.

2.2.1. Specifications, standards and handbooks. - The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

2.2.2. Federal Standards.-

2.2.2.1. FED-STD-4, Glossary of Fabric Imperfections.

2.2.3. Department of Defense Specifications

2.2.3.1. MIL-C-43665, Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment Of.

2.2.4. Other Government Documents and Publications.- The following other Government documents and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

2.2.4.1. FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR).- 52.209-4, First Article Approval – Government Testing. (Copies are available online at http://acquisition.gov/far/index/html or by contacting the Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

2.2.4.2. FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION.- Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act. (Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

2.3. Non-Government publications.-

2.3.1. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

2.3.1.1. AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) (Copies of the following test methods and evaluation procedures are available on line at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

2.3.1.1.1. AATCC Test Method 8 – Colorfastness to Crocking; AATCC Crock-meter method

2.3.1.1.2. AATCC Test Method 15 – Colorfastness to Perspiration

2.3.1.1.3. AATCC Test Method 16 – Colorfastness to Light

2.3.1.1.4. AATCC Test Method 20 – Fiber Analysis: Qualitative

2.3.1.1.5. AATCC Test Method 20a – Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

2.3.1.1.6. AATCC Test Method 81 – pH of the Water-Extract form Wet Processed Textiles

2.3.1.1.7. AATCC Test Method 99 - Dimensional Changes of Woven or Knitted Textiles: Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting.

2.3.1.1.8. AATCC Test Method – 132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

2.3.1.1.9. AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 – Gray Scale for Color Change 2.3.1.1.10. AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 – Gray Scale for Staining 2.3.1.1.11. AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 – AATTCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

2.3.1.1.12. AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 – Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles.

2.3.1.2. AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

2.3.1.2.1. ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes. (Copies are available online at www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality Control, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

2.3.1.3. ASTM INTERNATIONAL (Copies of the following Standard Test Methods are available on line at www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700 West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.3.1.3.1. ASTM D 276 – Standard Test Methods for Identification of fibers in Textiles

2.3.1.3.2. ASTM D 629 – Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles

2.3.1.3.3. ASTM D 3776 – Standard Test Method for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

2.3.1.3.4. ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

2.3.1.4. OTHER PUBLICATIONS

2.3.1.4.1. Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure, Principles and methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp

1057-1060, 2001. (Copies are available online at http://www/taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.3.1.4.2. Sears Fabric Defect replica Scales – Sears Roebuck and Co. (Copies are available from Sears Roebuck and Company, “Fabric Defect Replica Kit” Department 817 (Atten: FC 554B), 3333 Beverly Road, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179.)

2.3.1.4.3. Methods of Test for Grade of Wool – U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. (Copies are available from US Department of Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402.)

2.4. Order of precedence. - Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. First Article. – When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2. First Articles shall be shipped to: The Cadet Uniform Factory, USMA, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY 10996.

3.2. Standard Sample. - The finished cloths shall match the color and shade of the standard and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. (See 3.4.)

3.3. Material.-

3.3.1. Wool.-

3.3.1.1. Type I. - The wool shall be fleece wool, pulled wool, or any combination thereof not lower than 62’s U.S. Standard. The use of laps and roving waste other than that resulting from the supplier’s own current production is prohibited. The use of colored noils, reprocessed wool, reused wool, card waste and wool garnets of any kind is prohibited. (See 4.3.2.).

3.3.1.2. Type II. - The wool shall be 90 percent reprocessed wool not lower in grade that 56’s U.S. Standard and 10 percent nylon +/- 3.0% (See 4.3.2.)

3.3.2. Yarn. - The yarn for warp and filling shall be carded and spun on the woolen system into a single yarn. (See 4.3)

3.4. Color.-

3.4.1. Type I. - They color of the finished cloth shall be one of the following colors:

3.4.1.1. Cadet Gray. The color of the finished cloth shall be Cadet Gray and shall match the color and shade of the USMA Standard Color and Shade Sample. (See 6.2.)

3.4.1.2. Black. The color of the finished cloth shall be Black, stock or piece dyed and shall match the color and shade of the USMA Standard Color and Shade Sample. (See 6.2.)

3.4.2. Type II. - The color of the finished cloth shall be Black, stock or piece dyed and shall match the color and shade of the USMA Standard Color and Shade Sample. (See 6.2.)

3.4.3. Matching. - The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 degrees (+/-2000) Kelvin illumination of 100 (+/-20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+/-2000) Kelvin.

3.4.4. Colorfastness. - The finished cloth shall show fastness to perspiration, wet dry- cleaning, crocking and light as specified in Table I. Tests shall be made as specified in 4.4.

Table I – Color fastness requirements (all Types)

(minimum) Perspiration 1/ (acid & alkaline (minimum) Crocking 3/ (minimum)

1/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Prodecure2, Gray Scale for Staining 2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-step Chromatic Transference Scale

3.5. Physical requirements. - The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.

Table II – physical requirements

Type Weight (ounces per square yard) Minimum Yarns per inch Minimum Break Strength Maximum Shrinkage

3.5.1. Width. - The width of types I and II of the finished cloth shall be not less than 58 inches or more than 60 inches wide excluding the width of the selvage.

3.5.2. Weave.-

3.5.2.1. Type I. - The weave shall be 2/2 twill to the right see Figure 1. Figure 1

3.5.2.2. Type II. - The weave shall be a 3/3 steep twill 3x3 herringbones as in Figure 2.

Figure 2

3.6. Finish. - The cloth shall be scoured, fulled, (carbonized if necessary) and shall be uniformly finished equal to or better than the standard sample. The cloth shall be pressed and shall have a lustrous face.

3.6.1. Acidity (pH). - The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not lower than 4.0 nor shall it be higher than 8.0 when tested as specified in 5.4.

3.7. Length and put-up. - Unless otherwise specified, the cloth shall be put up on full width rolls of not less than 54 continuous yards and no more than 66 continuous yards.

3.8. Toxicity. - The finished cloths shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.9. Workmanship. - The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum point value.

4. VERIFICAITON

4.1. Classification of inspection. - The inspection requirement specified herein are classified as follows:

4.1.1. First article inspection (See 4.2)

4.1.2. Conformance inspection (See 4.3)

4.2. First article inspection. – A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color, finished defects listed in 4.4.1.2., and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table II.

4.3. Conformance inspection. - Conformance inspection shall include the examinations of 4.4 and the tests of 4.5 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in and or order, except where otherwise indicated.

4.3.1. Inspection conditions. - In accordance with 1.4 all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.3.2. Wool examination. - The wool shall be visually examined for grade in scoured form, prior to dyeing, picking or carding by comparison with the applicable US Standard. The examination for grade shall be performed on a composite sample of 1 pound of scoured wool for each 10,000 pounds or fraction thereof in the lot. The composite sample shall be selected from not less than 1-percent of the bags/bales in the lot. In the event of dispute resulting from above comparisons, the grade shall be determined by a width method (wedge). The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet the requirements of 3.3.1.1. or 3.3.1.2.

4.4. Examination of the end item. - The total yardage in each roll of the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards examined exceed 20.0 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceed 30.0 points. If one roll in the sample exceeds 30.0 point per 100 square yards, a second sample shall be examined for individual roll quality only. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more rolls in the second sample exceeds 30.0 points per 100 square yards. Point computation and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Points per 100 square Yards (Total points scored in sample) x

(3,600)

(Contracted width of cloth [inches]) x (Total yards inspected)

4.4.1. Lot Size. The number of rolls from which the sample yardage shall be extracted shall be in accordance with the following:

Number of Rolls

4.4.1.1. All defects as defined in Section III of Fed. Std. No. 4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance of 3 feet, shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.1.2. except as follows: Only coarse yarns that exceed twice the normal diameter shall be scored; Mixed filling (shade bar shall be scored only when resulting from wrong ply, wrong twist in the yarn, or off shade yarn; Only knots and slubs that exceed limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scale “C” for slubs and “D” for knots shall be scored. Defects found shall be counted regardless of their proximity to each other, except where two or more defects represent a single local condition of the cloth, in which case only the more serious defect shall be counted. A continuous defect shall be counted as one defect for each warp-wise yard or fraction thereof in which it occurs. Defects on the selvage shall not be scored unless the body of the cloth is affected. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll with in the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. See 4.4.1.2.

4.4.1.2. Demerit points.- Demerit point shall be assigned as follows:

For defects exceeding three (3) inches but not exceeding six (6) inches in any dimension.

Two (2) points.

For defects exceeding six (6) inches but not exceeding nine (9) inches in any dimension.

Three (3) points.

The following defects when present shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur:

Edges rolled folded, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth.

Four (4) points.

Shade defects such as: shaded side-to-side, side-to-center, or end-to-end.

Four (4) points.

Any spot, stain or streak more than 1 inch in combined directions.

Four (4) points.

Any slubs or knots which exceed “C” for slubs and “D” for knots on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale Four (4) points.

1/ To determine the presence of unacceptable selvage conditions, the following procedure shall be observed: During the visual examination, the perch shall be stopped at a minimum of three times for each roll in the sample, the tension removed, and the finished cloth examined for the selvage conditions. Waviness in the selvage or significant ripples diagonally across the width of the fabric is an indication of slack or tight selvages.

4.4.2. Shade and appearance examination. If any color in any roll of the sample is off shade or if any roll does not have the same appearance as the standard sample, it shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot the sample.

4.4.3. Examination for Length.-

4.4.3.1.1. Individual rolls. - During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length found to be less than the minimum specified or more than two yards less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length.

4.4.3.1.2. Total yardage in sample. - The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on roll tickets. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the examination of individual rolls.

4.5. End Item Testing. - The methods of testing shall be standard tests as specified in AATCC or ASTM methods, wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed. The physical and chemical values specified in section 3 apply to the results of the determinations made one a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test method. The sample unit shall be 2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard each. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual value utilized in expressing the final result. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be in accordance with the following:

Table III

Paragraph Test Method

“pass” or “fail”

Filling-Yarn single Ply

3.3.2.

Visual, where one determination per sample unit and results as “pass” or “fail”

Colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning

Option A

“pass” or “fail”

“pass” or “fail”

1/ In case of dispute, the ASTM method prevails.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1. Packaging. - The cloth shall be packaged, packed and marked in accordance with commercial practice to insure safe shipment to West Point, New York, 10996.

5.1.1. Cardboard tube. - Each piece of cloth shall be rolled onto a sturdy and smooth commercial cardboard tube which will not crush in commercial storage, movement, or shipment of the roll.

5.1.2. Secured cloth at roll end. - The exterior end of each cloth roll shall be secured so that the end of the roll will not unroll or unfurl within the package.

5.1.3. Roll enclosure. - Each roll of cloth shall be securely enclosed in a clear bag or wrapped in a polyethylene film or other suitable clear material which will protect the cloth from soiling and degradation in shipping.

5.1.4. If clear bags are the chosen means to enclose rolls of cloth, the bag shall be closed securely so that the bag will not open throughout shipping, and handling.

5.2. Marking. - Each roll shall be marked with a Piece Ticket and an Identification Tag.

5.2.1. Piece Ticket.- The Piece Ticket shall be legibly printed in a font size 10 or greater, using water insoluble ink, with: the fiber content (in accordance with the Rules and Regulation s Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and the Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Product Labeling Act); the cloth description with includes: Melton, the Type (I or II), and the Color (Cadet Gray or Black); Linear yardage (The linear yardage of the finished cloth contained in the roll on which the ticket appears); and a unique Roll, Piece, or Bale Number.

5.2.1.1. Each Roll, Piece, or Bale number will be a unique identifying number that shall not duplicated on any other roll of cloth within any order or contract.

5.2.1.2. The Piece Ticket shall be affixed to the roll-end of a package. Affixing of Piece Ticket can be accomplished in a manner that allows the ticket to be read without opening the package. See Figures 3 and 4.

5.2.1.3. Contractors may choose to include Company name, address, contact information, and or contract number on the Piece Ticket information.

Figure 3 - Plastic bagged roll

Identification Tag

Piece ticket

Figure 4 - Plastic wrapped roll

Identification Tag

Piece ticket

5.2.2. Identification Tag. - Each roll shall be marked with an Identification Tag.

5.2.2.1. The Identification Tag shall duplicate the information found on the Piece ticket.

5.2.2.2. Identification Tags shall have minimum dimensions of 2 inches x 3 inches and shall be completely legible when affixed to the bag.

5.2.2.2.1. Identification Tags shall be affixed to the outside of the bag or package approximately 3” in from the selvage edge at the same end of the bag or package which has the piece ticket attached. See Figures 3 and 4.

6. NOTES

6.1. Intended use.-

6.1.1. Type I. – The cloth is to be used for overcoat liners (historic) for the United States Military Academy Cadet Uniform Overcoats.

6.1.2. Type II. - The cloth is to be used for parkas for the United States Military Academy Cadet Uniform Black Parkas.

6.2. Standard Samples and shade samples.- Requests for standard shade samples should be directed to the Cadet Uniform Factory at West Point, (845) 938-5989 or to the address of the procuring office issuing the solicitation for bids.

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