DEVIATION.pdf

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION

FOR

RAINCOAT, CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

June 9, 2003

After careful consideration, the following changes to USMA patters for the Cadet Ra incoat are approved and adopted.

1. Add 3" or more in. length to the Fly ensure the pieces are long enough to cover the opening for the button holes

2. Narrow Fly pieces to keep the fly from extending past the edge of the facing when sewn.

3. Add ½” to length to Pouch.

4. Square off Collar corners fur easier sewing, while the interlining corners remain rounded to eliminate bulk when the collars are sewn.

5. Use Right side of cape for digitizing and mirror for the left as the left and right sides are different for many sizes, but not all patterns.

6. Adjust Cape facing up or down to match up with each size of cape.

7. Narrow Cape facing interlining to keep the edge from extending past the facing when sewn.

8. Shorten Cape facing interlining to ½ “to eliminate bulk in the hem.

9. Narrow Front facing interlining to keep the edge from extending past the facing when sewn. ,

10. Adjust front facing and interlining for sizes 30 and 32 to match smaller collar edge on right and left fronts of coat.

11. Adjust shoulder seams on Cape fronts and backs on most sizes to make the front and back more compatible.

12. Remove all cape notches to improve the joining operation.

13. Use interlining in the collar, collar s tay, and collar tab.