Attachment_001_Jungle_Combat_Boot_Purchase_Description_03_October_2016.pdf

INCH-POUNDS

GL-PD-16-05

03 October 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

BOOT, COMBAT, JUNGLE

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Jungle Combat Boot for use in hot/wet tropical Jungle conditions as specified in the contract or solicitation.

1.2. Classification. This purchase description covers the following sizes and widths.

Size: 2 through 15 (whole and half sizes), 16 (whole size only)

Widths: Narrow (B) Wide (EE) Regular (D) X-Wide (EEEE)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications. standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760-5019. ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8430

GL-PD 16-05

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55093 - Laces, Nylon A-A-55296 - Cloth, Twill, Cotton, 10.0 Ounces (339g) A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-DTL-32439 - Cloth, Duck, Textured Nylon MIL-PRF-3122 - Leather, Cattlehide, for Footwear Uppers, Gusset, Chrome Tanned, Fatliquored

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon MIL-W-17337 - Webbing, Textile, Woven Nylon

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY NATICK SOLDIER RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT, AND

ENGINEERING CENTER

2-1-1635 - Speed Lace Assembly

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering Center ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov.)

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specification procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D297 - Standard Test Method for Rubber Products – Chemical Analysis ASTM D412 - Standard Test Method for Vulcanized Rubber and Thermoplastic

Elastomers – Tension ASTM D471 - Standard Test method for Rubber Property-Effect of Liquids ASTM D624 - Standard Test Method for Tear Strength of Conventional Vulcanized Rubber and Thermoplastic Elastomers ASTM D1052 - Standard Test Method for Measuring Rubber Deterioration-Cut Growth

Using Ross Flexing Apparatus ASTM D1630 - Standard Test Method for Rubber Property-Abrasion resistance

(Footwear Abrader) ASTM D2208 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Leather by the Grab Method ASTM D2240 - Standard Test Method for Rubber Property-Durometer Hardness ASTM D3574 - Standard Test Method for Flexible Cellular Materials-slab, Bonded, and Molded Urethane Foams ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles Constant-Rate-of- Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D4786 - Standard Test Method for Stitch Tear Strength, Single Hole ASTM E96/E96M - Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials ASTM F 2412 - Standard Test Methods for Foot Protection ASTM F 2892 - Performance Requirements for Soft Toe Protective Footwear (Non- Safety) (Non-Protective Toe)

(Copies of documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org.)

SATRA GLOBAL TEST METHODS

SATRA MTM 31 - Abrasion resistance-Martindale method SATRA MTM 64 - Compression set –constant stress method SATRA MTM 83 - Measurement of the area shape retention and collapsing load of formed toes puff and stiffener materials SATRA MTM 98 - Dimensional stability with changes in atmospheric humidity http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/

SATRA MTM 223 - Floor markings by solings or top pieces

(Copies of this document are available from SATRA Technology Center, SATRA House, Rockingham Road, Kettering, Northants, NN 16 9 JH, United Kingdom.)

(Copies of documents required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard samples. The finished leather shall match a shade standard roll 3898 (cattlehide leather) for shade and sueded flesh appearance. All nylon duck and webbing shall match the shade standard roll 3894 for shade and appearance. Unless otherwise indicated, all materials shall be equal to or better than the respective sample roll with respect to all characteristics for which the standard is referenced when tested as specified in 4.4.2 and 4.4.4.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the requirements of this document and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Upper leather. The leather shall be flesh out drum dyed Coyote 498 with color penetrating throughout the thickness of the hide. The chrome tannage shall not be visible. The leather for the vamps, outside counter pockets and eyelet stays shall conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type I, Treatment A and B. The leather for the front edge eyelet stays shall conform to MIL- PRF-3122, Type II, Treatment A. The following exceptions to MIL- PRF-3122 shall be applicable for the upper leathers:

a. The flesh surface shall be sueded to produce a fine uniform nap.

b. The grain surface shall be lightly buffed to remove the surface of the grain only.

c. The finish requirements for the leather shall not apply.

d. The tear strength requirements for the front edge stays and eyelet stays shall not apply.

e. The thickness shall be as specified for the cut parts in Table VI.

f. As an option, the eyelet stays may conform to MIL-PRF-3122, Type I, Treatment A and Treatment B.

3.4.2 Insoles The insole shall be a puncture resistant textile, such as TexTech PunctureX or equal, and meet the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I. Insole performance requirements

Characteristics Physical Requirements Thickness, inches (min.) 0.09

Abrasion Resistance Non-Woven board, revs dry/ wet (min.)

25,600 /6400

Puncture Resistance 1200N

3.4.3 Counters. The thermoplastic counter shall conform to the performance requirements of Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The counter shall conform to fit the last used and shall fill the counter pocket area.

TABLE II. Thermoplastic performance requirements.

Initial Collapsing Load, newtons (N) >130 Resilience, percent (min.) 25 Moisture Resistance, percent (min.) 80 Area Shape Retention, percent (min.)

Initial 10th collapse

3.4.4 Fabrics and other materials.

3.4.4.1 Upper fabric.

3.4.4.1.1 Cloth (quarters and gussets). The cloth for the quarters and gussets shall be nylon duck conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style A of MIL-DTL-32439, except that the color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2), and the air permeability requirement shall not apply. The nylon duck cloth for the quarters and gussets may be treated with a non-fray finish or durable water repellent finish to facilitate cutting and handling so long as it does not reduce the breathability (i.e. moisture vapor transmission rate) of the cloth. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.4.1.2 Inside counter pocket. The inside counter pocket shall be leather or a non-absorbent textile knit laminate (see 3.4.4.1.4).

3.4.4.1.3 Back seam tape. The tape shall conform to MIL-PRF-5038, Type III, Class 1, 1/2-inch wide. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.4.1.4 Vamp lining The cloth for the vamp lining and optional inside counter pocket shall be a textile knit laminate conforming to the requirements in Table III. As an alternative vamp lining, cotton twill conforming to Class 2 of A-A-55296 with an added durable water repellent finish may be used, so long as the end item meets the requirements stated in 3.9.4 and 3.9.5.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE III. Knit laminate performance requirements.

Martindale Abrasion (Fabric only) Dry (153,600 revs), cycles (min.) 9,600 Bursting Strength, lbs. (min.)

Fabric Only 125

3.4.5 Box toe. A thermoplastic box toe shall be used and shall conform to the performance requirements of Table II. The box toes shall be skived 3/8 (± 1/8) inch wide at the breast. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.6 Binding tape. The tape for binding the top edge of the gusset shall be nylon conforming to MIL-PRF-5038 Type III, Class 1 or 2, 3/4-inch. As an alternative for the binding tape, producer colored 500 denier textured warp yarn and non-textured 210 denier filling yarn may be used, provided they meet the minimum breaking strength of 300 pounds. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2).

3.4.7 Backstay and ankle reinforcement tape. The backstay tape shall be cut from 1-inch wide nylon webbing and the ankle reinforcing tape shall be cut from 3-inch wide nylon webbing. The webbing shall conform to MIL-W-17337, Class 1 or 2. As an alternative for the 1-inch backstay webbing, producer colored textured continuous filament nylon yarns may be used with 1000 denier warp yarns, 500 denier filling yarns, and a minimum breaking strength of 950 pounds. As an alternative for the 3-inch ankle reinforcement webbing, producer colored textured continuous filament nylon yarns may be used with 1000 denier warp yarns, 500 denier filling yarns, and a breaking strength of 2400 pounds. The color shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.8 Shanks. The fiberglass shanks shall be bonded to the insole and shall conform to the shape of the last. The fiberglass shank (glass and resin area), when cured, shall be 5/8 (± 1/16) inch in width.

3.4.9 Speed lace assembly. The number of speed lace loops for sizes 2 through 11 shall be three (3) and sizes 11.5 through 16 shall be four (4). The loops shall be brass with a coated nylon finish in Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). The speed lace assembly shall be in accordance with drawing 2-1-1635 (see 2.2.2). Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.10 Eyelets. The four (4) bottom eyelets shall be brass, Size AA, with a nylon coated finish in Coyote 498. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.4.11 Drainage perforations

3.4.11.1 Drainage perforations. The boot shall have drainage perforations on both the medial and lateral sides of the leather vamp, behind the ball area of the foot and the natural flex line of the boot. There shall be no less than twelve (12) perforations on each side for sizes 2 through 7.5 and no less than fifteen (15) perforations on each side for sizes 8 through 16. The perforations shall be no smaller than 0.04-inch or 1-millimeter (mm) and equally spaced from one another on each side. The drainage perforations shall be backed by a non-metallic screen mesh or knit laminate material with a sieve size of no greater than 0.032-inch (0.8-mm). The mesh or knit laminate shall be held in place with both adhesive and stitching around the perimeter of the perforations. Internal components of the boot, to include adhesives, shall not interfere with the proper drainage from the perforation holes. The lowest row of drainage perforations shall be no further than 0.25-inch from the midsole. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5 Soling system requirements.

3.5.1 Midsole construction and design. The cushion midsole shall be directly attached to the upper and shall be achieved either through an injection molding or open pouring method. The design shall be as shown in Figures 2A and 2B. The cushion midsole shall be pure polyether polyurethane, Coyote 498 color and have an exterior texture pattern that is a good match to the Government standard sample (see 6.4). The dimensions of the cushion midsole shall be sufficient to meet all of the salient characteristics listed within this document or purchase description.

3.5.2 Midsole compound requirements. The requirements for the pure polyether polyurethane cushioned midsole are based on testing done on slabs (according to ASTM procedures) and are not actual soles. The requirements shall be as specified in Table IV when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.

TABLE IV. Midsole polyether polyurethane requirements.

Characteristics Minimum Maximum Density, gm/cc 0.40 0.60 Hardness, (shore A) 50 75 Tensile strength, kgf/cm sq 25 N/A Elongation, percent 250 N/A Tear Strength Die T, kg/cm

3.7

N/A

Volume Swell, percent w/ASTM Oil #3 (at 24 hrs)

Compression Set, percent N/A 20 Ross Flex (1-inch X 6-inch) at -5 °C, percent 150,000 cycles

3.5.3 Outersole. The outersole design shall be the Vibram Panama II style number 1415 (see Figure 3), or equal. The outsole shall be a minimum of 18-iron, 9.5 millimeters (mm) in thickness of solid rubber at each of the lugs. The color of any identification plug shall be Coyote 498 in color unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.5.3.1 Rubber outersole compound requirements. The requirements for the rubber outsole are based on testing done on slabs (according to ASTM procedures) and are not actual soles.

The requirements shall be as specified in Table V when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.

TABLE V. Rubber outsole compound requirements

NBS abrasion (min.) 150 Hardness (shore A) 70-80 Stitch Tear, pounds (min.)

Dry Fuel B

Die C tear strength, pounds (min.) 300 Ross flex, IRM 903, percent (max.)

50,000 flexes

Volume swell, percent (max.)

Fuel B (46 hrs.)

Non-marking Pass Tensile, pounds (min.) 2,100 Elongation, percent (min.) 400

3.5.4 Bond strength. The bond achieved between the boot upper, cushion midsole, and outsole shall be resistant to any delamination for the life of the item.

3.5.4.1 Entire sole to upper. The bond strength shall not be less than 130 pounds. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.5.4.1.1 Outersole to cushion midsole bond strength. The outersole to cushion midsole strength shall not be less than 100 pounds. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

NOTE: The components of the sole shall be layered in such a manner that the specified bond strengths will be achieved. If test results find values to be less than specified due to material failure, in regards to the bond between the layers, the test shall be classified as a failure.

3.6 Thread, nylon. The thread shall be nylon, conforming to Type I Tex size 68-70 (Government size E), Type II Tex size 70-76 (Government size E) or Type III Tex size 70-75 (Government size E), Class A or B, of A-A-59826. The color of the thread shall be Coyote 498. Colorfastness requirements shall not apply. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

3.7 Removable ventilating insert. The removable ventilating insert shall be a low-density heel cup support made of closed cell pure polyether polyurethane system and shall meet the requirements of Table VI. The insert is molded without a fabric topcover, incorporating a molded moisture evacuation design including channels and holes to assist in the removal of liquids and moisture from inside the boots. The drainage holes shall be molded into the insert, not drilled or die cut, and no less than 0.25-inch in diameter nor larger than 0.375-inch in diameter. The insert shall have no less than seven (7) drainage holes in each of the following areas: heel, toe, ball, and midfoot. Channels 0.125 (± 0.005)-inch in width shall be cut into the top surface of the insert such that they direct moisture toward the drainage holes. The total thickness of the insert shall be 0.180 (± 0.025) inch forward of the instep, and 0.250 (± 0.030) inch elsewhere. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE VI. Removable cushion insert requirements

Characteristics Requirement Density, lb/cu. Ft 16-19 Tensile strength, lb./sq. in. (min) 82 Compression set, percent at 25% at 50%

Foam Hardness 50-65

3.8 Laces. The laces shall conform to Type III, Class 1 of A-A-55093. The color of the laces shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2). The length of the laces shall be at least 66-inches for all sizes.

3.9 Design. The boot shall be Coyote 498 in color and shall contain a partial speedlace closure system consisting of four (4) eyelets with the remainder of the closures being speed lace loops. The boot shall contain a removable cushion insert. The outside leather areas shall be flesh-side out with drainage perforations located in the medial and lateral midfoot area of each boot. The quarter shall be nylon duck. The backstay, collar, and ankle reinforcements shall be nylon webbing.

3.9.1 Vamp design. The vamp design shall be such as to allow for the leather Vamp to extend up the gusset to approximately the second eyelet of the boot.

3.9.2 Boot height. The height of the finished boot, measured upward on the outside from tread area at the breast of heel to the top of the boot, shall be 10 (± 0.25) inch at the top of the eyelet stays on size 10R. Height shall graduate up and down between sizes and widths as indicated by the patterns. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.3 Boot weight. The weight of a finished boot for a size 10R shall be less than 2 pounds per boot (and shall graduate up and down between sizes and widths) when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.4 Boot weight after immersion. The boot weight after immersion in water shall not exceed 140% of the dry boot weight for a size 10R boot. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.5 Dry time. The predicted dry time shall not exceed 8 hours to achieve 80% dry.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.6 Whole boot moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR). The whole boot breathability shall not be less than 10.0 grams per hour. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.9.7 Puncture resistance. The finished boot shall meet the requirements of section 5.4 (except section 5.4.7) of ASTM F2892 for puncture resistance when tested in accordance with

ASTM F2412.

3.10 Lasts and molds.

3.10.1 Direct attach soling construction lasts and molds. The boots shall be made on commercial last model “FMT U3813-1 Military” or equal based on Government approval. The numerical size of the boot shall correspond with the numerical size of the last used to produce the boot (i.e. a size 10R boot shall be produced on a size 10R last). The Direct Attach last has a common last bottom shared by N and R lasts and a common last bottom shared by W and XW lasts for each whole and half size. The Direct Attach (either Injection Molding or Open Pouring) process shall utilize a separate cushion midsole mold to produce N and R widths for each whole and half size. The Direct Attach process shall use a separate cushion midsole mold to produce W and XW widths for each whole and half size. The total number of molds required to produce the full size tariff shall be fifty eight (58) molds.

3.11 Construction.

3.11.1 Uppers.

3.11.1.1 Cutting leather uppers. The leather parts shall conform to the thickness requirements specified in Table VII. All leather for boot components, with the exception of the eyelet stays, shall be cut so as to be used flesh side out. Vamps shall be examined as specified in

4.4.2. Front edge stays shall not be split.

TABLE VII. Thickness of leather uppers (ounces).

Characteristics If not split For split parts Min Max Min Max

Vamp 5 6 - - Outside counterpocket 4 6 - - Outside eyelet stays 3 4 - - Inside eyelet stays 3 4 3-1/2 4 Counter pocket 3-1/2 4 3-1/2 4

3.11.1.2 Cutting fabric upper parts. The quarters shall be cut in the bias direction such that the collar seam is not parallel with either the warp or fill direction.

3.11.1.3 Marking, permanent identification. With the exception of Product Demonstration Models (PDMs), the Contractor shall permanently mark the correct American and Mondopoint sizes and widths, the contract number (Example: 04-D-1234), and the company or brand name on the inside of the boot in the shaft or gusset area. The marking may be in the form of a label and shall be done in accordance with acceptable commercial practices, and it shall not reduce footwear functionality. The boot shall contain a manufacturing tracking lot number and a born date. Embossing of a company or brand name on the exterior of the boot shall not be permitted.

Unit packs will include NSN and UPC bar codes as specified in the contract. Each symbol must be Human and scanner readable. As an alternate, a sewn in label may be utilized.

3.11.2 Skiving. Skiving of upper leather parts is permitted.

3.11.3 Finishing leather parts. The leather shall be flesh out drum dyed Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2) with the color penetrating throughout the thickness of the hide so that the chrome tannage shall not be visible.

3.12 Assembly.

3.12.1 Insole. The insole shall be as specified in 3.4.2 of the appropriate thickness (see Table I).

3.12.2 Boot finishing. No top finish or treatment shall be applied.

3.12.3 Pairing, lacing, and instruction tag. The boots shall be paired. A lace shall be inserted through the top speed lace loop of the outside quarter of each boot, and the two (2) laces for each pair shall be tied firmly together. One (1) instruction tag (see 3.13.1) shall be attached to each pair of boots by inserting a lace through the hole in the instruction tag.

3.13 Instruction and hangtags.

3.13.1 Instruction tags. Instruction tags, to be tied to the finished boots, shall have a bar code located on the instruction tag of each pair of boots. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN), and shall be a medium to high code density. The bar code shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. The tags shall be printed on tag stock that is 5-1/4 by 6-1/2-inches and folded in the middle to form four printed pages in book form that are 5-1/4 by 3- 1/4-inches. A punch hole shall be made in the top near the folded edge for insertion of the lace.

The Use and Care Information (see Figure 1) must be included on the instruction tags.

3.13.2 Labels. Component and boot feature hangtags may be attached to the boots

3.14 Workmanship. The finished boots shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor’s own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see paragraph 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see paragraph 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection when required (see 3.1.1) shall be examined for the defects specified in 4.4.3 and tested for the characteristics in 4.4.4.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection (3.1.2) shall include the examinations of 4.4.1 through 4.4.1.3, and 4.4.3 and the testing in 4.4.2 and 4.4.4. Unless otherwise specified sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

4.4 Component and material inspection.

4.4.1 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of manufacturing to determine whether the components are as specified or operations and/or assemblies are accomplished as specified. The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material or service for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.1.1 In-process examination. Examination shall be made for the component defects listed in 4.4.1.1 through 4.4.1.3 and classified as specified. The lot size shall be expressed in units of upper assemblies prepared for lasting. The sample unit shall be one (1) completely fabricated upper assembly prepared for lasting.

4.4.1.2 Examination uppers after all fitting. The upper assemblies shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VIII. The lot size shall be expressed in units of upper assemblies prepared for lasting. The sample unit shall be one completely fabricated upper assembly prepared for lasting.

TABLE VIII. Examination of upper after all fitting

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor Construction and workmanship (general) affixed

Any component missing or not specified type Any component misplaced or not as specified 1/ Vamp stitched more than 5/32-inch from edge at throat Vamp stitched more than 3/32-inch from edge at throat, but not more than 5/32-inch Vamp throat or wings not skived

Quality of Leather

Thickness more than 1/2-ounce less than minimum specified

Thickness less than specified minimum, but not exceeding 1/2-ounce less

Thickness more than maximum specified Off-stretch cut 1/ Slaughter cut 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability, and as a minor when not seriously affecting serviceability, as determined by the Government

4.4.1.3 Examination of boot before last pulling. The partially fabricated boots shall be examined for the defects listed in Table IX. The lot size shall be expressed in units of partially fabricated boots. The sample unit shall be one (1) partially constructed boot assembled to the point just prior to pulling off the last.

TABLE IX. Examination of boot before last pulling.

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Bottom of boot

Any component missing, sized wrong, malformed or not specified type

Upper damaged 1/ Poor heel seat, side, or toe lasting 1/ Insole tack not removed 1/

Upper part of boot Uppers not firmly pulled down to last 1/ 112 209 1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability, and as a minor when not seriously affecting serviceability as determined by the Government.

4.4.2 Component testing. The components shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table X. The methods of testing specified where applicable shall be used. The sampling plan shall be as follows: (Unless otherwise noted in the contract or solicitation).

Lot size (yards or units) Sample size Under 800 2 801 – 22,000 5 22,001 and above 8

TABLE X. Component tests.

Component

Characteristic

Requirement Paragraph

Test Method

Upper leather

Physical Characteristics 3.4.1 MIL-PRF-3122 Shade Evaluation 3.4.1 1/

Insole Abrasion resistance Non-Woven board

3.4.2

SATRA MTM-31

Box Toe & Heel Counters (alternate -Thermoplastic)

Initial Collapsing Load (N) 3.4.3 & 3.4.5 SATRA MTM-83 Resilience (%) 3.4.3 & 3.4.5 SATRA MTM-83 3/ Moisture Resistance (%) 3.4.3 & 3.4.5 SATRA MTM-83 4/ Area Shape Retention (%) 3.4.3 & 3.4.5 SATRA MTM-83

Fabric:

Nylon duck fabric

Shade Evaluation

3.4.4.1.1

1/

Vamp Lining Abrasion Resistance 3.4.4.1.4 SATRA MTM 31 Bursting Strength 3.4.4.1.4 ASTM D3787

Backstay and ankle reinforcement tape

Width 3.4.7 Visual 5/ Shade Evaluation 3.4.7 1/

Shanks Width 3.4.8 Visual 5/ Speed Lace Assembly Shade Evaluation 3.4.9 1/ Eyelets Shade Evaluation 3.4.10 1/

TABLE X. Component tests. - Continued

Component

Polyether Polyurethane Cushion Midsole

Shade Evaluation 3.5.1 1/ Density (gm/cc) 3.5.2 ASTM D297 Hardness (shore A) 3.5.2 ASTM D2240 6/ Tensile strength (kgf/cm sq) 3.5.2 ASTM D3574E 7/ Elongation (%) 3.5.2 ASTM D3574F 7/ Tear strength Die T (kg/cm)

3.5.2 ASTM D3574F 7/

Volume swell (%) w/ASTM IRM 903 (at 24hrs.)

3.5.2

ASTM D471 2/, 7/

Compression Set % 3.5.2 SATRA MTM 64 8/ Ross flex (1-inch x 6-inch) at 5°C 150,000 cycles

3.5.2 ASTM D1052 9/, 10/

Outersole

Thickness 3.5.3 2/ Shade Evaluation 3.5.3 1/

Rubber Compound

NBS abrasion 3.5.3.1 ASTM D1630 Hardness (shore A)

3.5.3.1 ASTM D2240

Stitch Tear (dry)

3.5.3.1 ASTM D4786

Stitch Tear (Fuel B)

3.5.3.1 ASTM D4786 11/

Die C tear strength

3.5.3.1 ASTM D624

Ross flex, IRM 903

3.5.3.1 ASTM D1052

Volume swell, Fuel B

@ 46 hrs

3.5.3.1

ASTM D471

Non-marking 3.5.3.1 SATRA MTM 223 Tensile

3.5.3.1 ASTM D412

Elongation 3.5.3.1 ASTM D412 Thread, nylon Shade Evaluation 3.6 1/ Removable cushion Inserts

Density 3.7 ASTM D3574A Tensile strength 3.7 ASTM D3574E Compression set @ 25% 3.7 ASTM D3574D Compression set @ 50% 3.7 ASTM D3574D Foam hardness 3.7 ASTM D2240

Laces

Shade Evaluation 3.8 1/ Length 3.8 Visual 5/

1/ The color of the component shall be Coyote 498 matching that of the standard sample (see 3.2) when tested in accordance with AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 Option A as described in

4.6 of this purchase description.

2/ A thickness gauge of the dead-weight type equipped with a dial graduated to read directly to 0.001-inches shall be used. The presser foot shall be circular, with a diameter of 1.129 (± 0.001) inches and with moving parts weighted to apply a total load of 0.60 (±0.03) pounds per square inch (psi) to the specimen. The anvil shall be not less than 1.129-inches in diameter. The presser foot and anvil surface shall be paned to within 0.001-inches and shall be parallel to each other to within 0.001-inches.

3/ Resilience is percentage retention of initial collapsing load after ten collapses.

4/ Moisture resistance is percentage retention of initial dry collapsing load after 1-hour immersion.

5/ Measured with a calibrated ruler/caliper 6/ Thickness of test slab shall be as stated in the respective ASTM method.

7/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 12.7mm (0.5 in) from test slabs or 6.0mm from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only.

8/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 12.7mm (0.5 in) from test slabs or 19.0mm from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

9/ Method modified to include 2mm insole board glued onto the specimens and conducted at - 5ºC.

10/ Thickness of test sample used shall equal 6.4mm (0.25 in) from test slabs or 6.0mm from actual cushioned midsoles. Actual cushioned midsoles shall be used for verification testing only. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

11/ Test conducted after 46 hours in Fuel B at Room Temperature. However, all test reports used for conformance purposes and submitted to the Government shall use test slabs.

4.4.3 End item visual examination. The end items shall be examined for the defects listed in Table XI below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of boots. The inspector shall check to see that removable cushion inserts are inserted in the boots. For the pairing examination, and when determining possible differences in outersole thickness, the pair shall be examined together. During the inspection for the defects listed within the “End item visual examination."

Defect Table, the minor defects or departures from specification requirements listed in the table shall be observed and recorded. Presence of these departures shall not result in the rejection of the lot, but the plant quality assurance and the Government personnel reserve the right to establish and impose lot rejection criteria when either the frequency or severity of the presence of these departures warrant. These additional rejection criteria may be invoked at any time during the life of the contract when the Government judges this action to be in their best interest.

Defects of pairing shall be classified as a single defect. Note: Appearance defects shall be scored only when the condition is plainly visible at a distance of 3-feet or more and it appreciably affects item appearance.

TABLE XI. End item visual examination.

Examination

Defect

Classification Major Minor

Pairing Not properly mated; i.e, not right and left of same size Variation in color, or appearance 1/ Variation of more than 1/4–inch in height of pair Difference in Outersole thickness between left/right boot

- More than 3/32-inch

- More than 1/16-inch but less than 3/32-inch

Nylon quarter and Gusset

Mend or week spot Two (2) or more yarns missing Quarter not cut on the bias Abrasion, spot, stain or discoloration 1/

Construction & Workmanship (general)

Cut, tear, hole, repair, or factory damage 1/ Wrinkled or bunched area at the back seam 1/ Component or assembly omitted or misplaced, operation omitted or not properly performed (unless otherwise classified herein) 1/

Webbing Not firmly and tightly woven, edges frayed or scalloped 124 Seams & stitching (upper)

Open seam not repaired 2/ Quarter panel and gusset fabric not caught in second row of inside eyelet stay stitching One or more run-off stitches Loose tension resulting in a loosely secured seam 1/ Tight tension resulting in puckering or cutting of leather 1/

Wrong stitch type Row of stitching with less than eight (8) stitches per inch, but not less than six (6) stitches per inch 3/

Any row of stitching with less than six (6) stitches per inch 3/

More than specified maximum number of stitches 1/, 3/ Gage of stitching not as specified or irregular 1/ Stitching omitted where required 1/ Thread ends not trimmed throughout boot 4/ Needle holes or needle chew 1/ Sand hole (i.e., tongue not properly caught in at throat)

TABLE XI. End item visual examination. - Continued

Classification Major Minor

Vamp or counter Pocket stitching at outersole junction

One or more rows of defective stitching not repaired Repaired, but first stitch more than 1/4-inch from outersole junction Repaired with one (1) stitch in lieu of two (2) or more stitches

Outersole & Soling System

Thickness not as specified Flash edges not removed by scouring affecting appearance Edge scouring irregular affecting appearance Other defects in tread or edge area 1/ Incomplete or incorrect bonding of outersole to cushion midsole (i.e., not securely attached)

Counters Rolled or curled counter 1/ Soft counter

140 231

Speed laces Number of speed lace loops not as specified, but each row has the same number Not the same number of loops in each row Loops not properly spaced within the row or misaligned between the rows to an extent interfering with proper lacing 1/ Loops not perpendicular to edge of quarters or parallel to each other Loops not securely riveted Distance from center of rivet to edge of quarter less than 7/32 or more than 9/32-inch 1/

Gusset Binding omitted 145 Marking, instruction tag and bar code

Missing, incomplete, incorrect, not applied in the specified manner, misplaced, illegible, or not specified size or not readable by scanner not visible Causes damage to end item

Insole Any protruding lasting staple or prong Any protruding point of lasting staple or point of tack forward of heel breast line found in the sample, shall cause rejection of the lot represented

Removable Cushion Inserts

Missing, wrong size 238

Heel finishing Heel not finished square and smooth, affecting Appearance

TABLE XI. End item visual examination. - Continued

Classification Major Minor

Eyelets, quarter Number of eyelets, not as specified; but each row has the same number

Not the same number of eyelets in each row Eyelets not properly spaced within the row or misalignment between the rows to an extent interfering with proper lacing 1/ Edge of any eyelet more than 5/16-inch from the edge of the quarter Eyelet not securely clinched

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability as determined by the Government or appearance, and as minor when not seriously affecting serviceability.

2/ A seam shall be classified as open when one or more stitches joining a seam are broken or when two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches occur. On multiple stitched seams, a seam is considered open when either one (1) or both sides of the seam are open.

When the above conditions occur on the inside of the boot, it shall be scored as a footnote (1/) defect 3/ A plus tolerance of 3 stitches per inch will be allowed when stitching over heavy places or turning sharp corners.

4/ Upon occasion when some insignificant thread ends are noted during inspection (audit) they will not be cause for lot/shipment rejection. In-plant corrective action shall be made on current and future production.

4.4.4 End item testing. The finished boot shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table XII. The sample unit for all tests shall be one (1) boot. All test results shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. For all tests, the sample size shall be five

(5) boots regardless of lot size and the lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE XII. End item tests

Bond strength Entire sole to upper Outersole to cushion

3.5.4.1 3.5.4.1.1

4.5.1 4.5.1

Height 3.9.2 Visual 1/ Weight 3.9.3 2/ Weight After Immersion 3.9.4 4.5.4 Dry Time 3.9.5 4.5.5

MVTR 3.9.6 4.5.6

Puncture resistance 3.9.7 ASTM F2892

1/ Measured with a calibrated ruler/caliper 2/ Weighed on a calibrated scale after conditioning for 24 hours

4.5 Methods of test.

4.5.1 Bond strength test of outersole to cushion midsole.

4.5.1.1 Specimen. The specimen shall be a completed boot which has aged at least two (2) days. The outersole shall be separated from the cushion-midsole, for a distance of approximately 2-1/2 inches each from the toe end of the specimen.

4.5.1.2 Apparatus. A power-driven adhesion machine, or an approved testing device of equal performance, shall be used. The rate of travel of the power-actuated grip shall be 2-inches per minute. The machine shall be operated with a device for maintaining maximum load indication.

4.5.1.3 Procedure. The separate toe ends of the specimen shall be clamped in the jaws of the machine. The specimen shall extend outward at right angles to the direction of the application load. The machine shall be started, and the surface being tested shall be pulled apart to a distance of not more than 4.5-inches from the toe. Upon attaining that degree of separation, the load indicated on the machine shall be read and recorded. If the required load is achieved (at any time during the pull test) the test is deemed as passing.

4.5.2 Bond strength test of entire soling system to boot upper,

4.5.2.1 Specimen. The test specimen shall be legibly marked on each side at two points (2 inches and 4-inches from the tip of the toe). The entire soling system shall then be separated from the upper to the 2-inch mark. The separation may be aided by any suitable device or machine capable of withstanding the amount of force necessary to accomplish separation. After separation to the 2-inch mark is achieved, the toe cap of the boot shall be crushed to facilitate mounting of the specimen in the tester. In event that the point of separation at the 2-inch mark is not between the upper and the soling system, that portion of the soling system remaining adhered to the upper shall be separated manually (with the aid of a knife or other instrument), so as to show separation between leather and soling system. Care should be taken in order to be sure that the leather is not cut.

4.5.2.2 Apparatus and procedure. The apparatus for measuring soling system/upper separation shall be as described in test method ASTM D2208. The separated and crushed toe portion of the boot shall be gripped by one clamp in a manner such that the minimum effective jaw surface area applied shall be 1-inch by 1-inch. The jaw surface shall be centered approximately 1/2-inch to 1-inch from the tip of the toe. The other jaw surface shall hold the overlay portion of the separated upper, and it shall not be less than 1-inch by 2-inches, with the long dimensions perpendicular to the pull of the machine. The machine shall be set in operation and the separation continued at a speed of 10-inches per minute until the outsole is separated from the upper to a point past the mark 4-inches from the tip. The maximum value attained during separation shall be taken as the bond strength.

4.5.3 Backstay seam strength test.

4.5.3.1 Specimen. The same boot used for the bond strength test may be used for this test.

The test specimen shall be a single finished boot of any size prepared as follows: The fabric quarters shall be cut from the leather upper and edge stay and cut down the specimen to the seam, 1-1/2 to 2-inches above the bottom of the backseam.

4.5.3.2 Procedure. The apparatus for measuring backstay seam strength shall be as described in ASTM D2208, except that the face jaw shall be 1-inch by 1-inch and the back jaw shall be 1-inch by 3-inches. Insert the specimen marked as described in Section 4.5.3.1 in the clamps so that the seam is centered between the jaws with the line in the center of the jaw faces and set the machine in operation. The maximum value attained during separation shall be taken as the backstay seam strength.

4.5.4 Weight after immersion.

4.5.4.1 Procedure

a. Condition boot to 23 (±1)ºC and 50 (±2)% Relative Humidity for at least 12 hours.

b. Immerse entire boot in 23 (±1)ºC water for one (1) hour (± 5) minutes.

c. Remove boot, invert for 10 seconds to allow water to pour out of the boot.

d. Weigh boot with load cell or balance.

e. As an option, Dry time procedure (4.5.5) may be done immediately following this procedure if a load cell with S hook is used to find the post-immersion weight.

4.5.5 Dry time.

4.5.5.1 Procedure

a. Test condition for chamber are 23 (±1)ºC and 50 (±2)% Relative Humidity

b. Condition boot to chamber for at least 12 hours prior to testing.

c. Immerse entire boot in 23 (±1)ºC water for one (1) hour (± 5) minutes.

d. Remove boot, invert for 10 seconds to allow water to pour out of the boot.

e. Suspend metal S hook from load cell and tare weight.

f. Hang boot on metal S hook using lace in lowest row of eyelets.

g. Record weight of boot after immersion.

h. Allow boot to dry in chamber while still suspended from S hook for at least three hours while recording weight in real time from the load cell.

i. Calculate the percent dry at x intervals.

j. Calculate estimated time to achieve 80% dry using following formula:

4.5.6 Whole boot breathability. The boot breathability test shall be designed to indicate the Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (MVTR) through the boot by means of a difference in temperature and concentration of moisture vapor between the interior and the exterior environment.

4.5.6.1 Apparatus.

a. The external test environment control system shall be capable of maintaining 23 (±1)ºC and 50 (±2) percent relative humidity throughout the test duration.

b. The weight scale shall be capable of determining weight of boots filled with water to an accuracy of (± 0.01) gram.

c. The water holding bootie insert (WHBI) shall be flexible so that it can be inserted into the boot and conform to the interior contours; it must be thin enough so that folds do not create air gaps; it must have a MVTR value ranging between 920-990 grams/meter2/24 hour. ASTM E96/E96M Method B- Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials shall be used to determine acceptability (1/); and it must be waterproof so that only moisture vapor contacts the interior of the footwear product rather than liquid water. After every five (5) uses of the WHBI it will be disposed of and replaced.

d. The water circulating bath system for the boot shall be capable of controlling the temperature of the water uniformly in the boot to 35 (± 1)oC as measured in the toe area of the boot.

e. The footform assembly used with the water circulating bath system shall have a boot plug oriented 12.5 centimeters (5-inches) as measured from the bottom of the plug surface to the inside sole in the heel area.

f. The boot plug shall be oval shaped measuring 3.5-inches by 2.5-inches.

g. The top of the boot shall be sealed to create an impervious barrier to both liquid water and water vapor.

h. Boots should be laced to the top of the lacing system. Allow for 1 (±0.5) inch separation between lateral and medial eyelet stays, with possible exception of the eyelets at the top of boot and boot plug area. Maximize seal security at top of boot.

i. A stationary 6-inch diameter fan shall be used to create the air current past the boot.

j. The stationary fan shall be positioned perpendicular to the test surface and raised so the center of the fan is 5-inches from the test surface.

k. The air current origin shall be 15.5-inches from the back heel edge of the boot (D). Refer to Diagram 1.

l. The air current shall be 250 (±30) feet/minute at the heel edge of the boot (S).

Measurement shall be taken without the boot assembly in place 2-inches up from the test surface at the fan center.

DIAGRAM 1. Whole Boot Breathability Bench-top Set-Up

1/ Determine MVTR in accordance with ASTM E96/E96M Method B with the knit side of the membrane facing the water. The free stream air velocity shall be 550 (± 50) feet per minute (fpm) as measured 2-inches above the specimen. The airflow shall be measured at least 2-inches from any other surface. The test shall be run for 24-hours and weight measurements shall be taken at only the start and completion of the test. At the start of the 24-hour test period, the air gap between the water surface and the specimen shall be 0.75 (± 0.06) inches.

4.5.6.2 Procedure.

a. Remove the removable cushion insert from the boot sample.

b. Weigh boot sample and record (this will be the unconditioned weight).

c. The boot shall be conditioned in the test environment for a minimum of 12 hours before testing.

d. Insert WHBI and footform assembly into boot opening and fill with water preheated to 35 (±1)ºC to a height of 12.5-centimeters (5-inches) as measured from the inside sole in the heel area and seal opening with boot plug. The water should be in contact with the bottom of the boot plug.

e. Regulate water temperature in boot at 35 (±1)oC.

f. Disconnect water circulating system and weigh boot assembly and record as Wi.

The water volume in system shall be noted at the time of weighing.

g. After weighing reconnect water circulating system and maintain the temperature in boot at 35 (±1)º C for six (6) hours (± 5-minutes).

h. The boot assembly shall be oriented such that the boot sole lies flat on the testing surface with the heel furthest from the fan interface and in line with the center of the stationary fan (See Diagram 2).

D = Distance from boot heel edge to fan interface S = Wind speed at boot heel

DIAGRAM 2. Whole Boot Breathability Bench-top Set-Up with Boot

i. After six (6) hours (± 5) minutes, reweigh boot assembly. The water volume in system shall match the noted Wi volume. Record weight as Wf and test duration as six (6) hours.

j. Compute whole boot MVTR in grams/hour from the equation below:

k. If test is aborted for any reason, thoroughly dry boot to within 5-grams of original boot weight (Step b). Recondition boot sample in test environment for the required length as outlined, and begin test procedure again.

4.6 Visual shade matching (All components). The color and appearance of the components shall match the standard shade and appearance in 3.2 when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (± 200)K, illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (± 200)K.

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements.