PD_15-06F_8-10-07_(DSCP_approved_8-31-07)_.pdf

NCTRF PD 15-06F

10 August 2007

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 15-06E

6 June 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PARKA, WORKING, US NAVY

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers a waterproof, moisture-vapor-permeable parka that accepts a zip-in liner for use by US Navy personnel.

1.2 Schedule of sizes. The parka is available in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2):

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long X-Small X X X X Small X X X X X Medium X X X X X Large X X X X X X-Large X X X X XX-Large X X X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they shall meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT: This notice is to advise you that the Government possesses intellectual property/trademark rights in the following Navy patterns and logos: digitized pattern; the blue, gray, and black coloration; and the anchor/Constitution/eagle (ACE) logo (hereafter collectively referred to as “intellectual property”). The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above-mentioned intellectual property. Therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property. Doing so will be considered an infringement on the Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERICAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester-Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52110 - Cloth, Plain Weave, Polyester/Cotton for Pockets (Water

Repellent) A-A-55126 - Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-T-3530 - Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant Or Water Repellent Treated

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-DTL-10884 - Fasteners, Snap

MIL-DTL-32072 - Thread, Polyester MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-PRF-32142 - Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable

MIL-C-43701 - Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 12-06 - Liner, Parka, US Navy

(Copies of this document is available at Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia PA 19111

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial:

Accelerated

AATCC 118 - Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC 119 - Color Change due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting) AATCC 127 - Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test AATCC 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 751 - Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing

ASTM D 2582 - Standard Test Method Puncture Propagation Tear Resistance of Plastic Film and Thin Sheeting

ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Woven Fabric

ASTM D 3884 - Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Textile

Fabrics ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams

ASTM E 96 - Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATION OF THE PULP AND PAPER INDUSTRY (TAPPI)

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

TAPPI Method 451 – Stiffness of Paperboard (Clark Stiffness Method)

(Applications for copies of referenced documents are available via http://www.tappi.org or should be addressed to TAPPI Press, Technology Park/Atlanta, P.O. Box 105113, Atlanta, GA 30348-5113.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence.

Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.2.1 Disposal of rejected garments. Non-usable garments shall be disposed by contacting the Contracting Officer to determine if there is an alternate use for rejected finished garments.

3.3 Materials. The materials and components shall conform to applicable specifications, standards, and drawings required herein. Equivalent materials and parts require approval by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Natick, MA. Requests for use of equivalent items shall be submitted to the contracting officer.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the parka shall be a laminated, waterproof and moisture vapor permeable cloth conforming to MIL-PRF-32142, Type III.

3.3.2 Upper pocket material. The upper chest pockets of the parka shall be made from cloth, plain weave, black, polyester/cotton conforming to A-A-52110.

3.3.3 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement cloth used in the elbow patches shall be digital printed nylon and shall match the basic material as specified in 3.3.1, (see 6.2), water repellent treated, resist fraying and conform to the following requirements stated in Table I when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.1.

http://www.tappi.org/

Table I – Reinforcement material requirements

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq. yd 5.6 to 6.0 Breaking strength:

Warp Fill

Colorfastness to:

Crocking

Laundering

Light

Perspiration (Alkaline/Acid)

Dry and wet: 3.5 min. except for Black 3235, 1.5 min. for Black

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale For

Color Change

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale For

Color Change

Navy Blue 3387, Deck Grey 3104, and Light Grey 3125

- not less than grade 3 rating Black 3235 – not less than 1.5 rating

Spray rating (minimum):

Initial After 1 Laundering

100, 100, 90 90, 90, 80

Stiffness (cm), maximum

Filling

11.0 11.0

Puncture Propagation of Tear, kgf (minimum)

Filling

7.0 6.0

Resistance to Organic liquid No wetting by N-Tetradecane

Resistance to Frosting Equal to or better than the original

Dimensional Stability:

Percent (maximum)

4.0 4.0

Abrasion Resistance

800 cycles (min) – no visible abrasion

3.3.4 Inside collar, parka hood tunnel, throat tab, inside slide fastener facings and lower inside pocket. The black cloth for the inside collar, parka hood tunnel, throat tab, inside slide fastener facings and lower inside pocket shall be a three layer-knit laminate conforming to the following requirement stated in Table II when tested in accordance with paragraph 4.4.1.1.

Table II – Knit laminate requirements

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq. yd. 4.0 + 0.4 Stiffness, cm (maximum) 8.0 Hydrostatic Resistance, psi (minimum):

Initial Taffeta Restraint After Deet

Puncture Propagation Tear, kgf (minimum):

3.5 3.5

Water permeability Initial After Synthetic Perspiration

No leakage No leakage

Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (gm/sq. m/24 hours) (minimum):

Procedure B - Initial Procedure BW - Initial

Physical surface appearance after laundering No change after 20 launderings when compared to unlaundered

3.3.5 Interlining. The interlining for the attached hood visor and chest pocket welt shall be cotton buckram cloth, natural or bleached, conforming to Type I of A-A-50186, except that the minimum breaking strength in the warp direction shall be 60 lbs.

3.3.6 Seam sealing tape. The tape for covering and sealing all designated seams and stitching shall be cut in 1 (+ 1/16) inch wide strips or ½ (+ 1/32) inch wide for the inside slide fastener facing (backside) from material that is compatible with the back side of the cloth specified in MIL-PRF-32142. As an alternate, 1-1/2 (+ 1/16) inch wide strips of tape as specified above may be used on the top and bottom of the sleeve pockets, flaps and fastener tapes. The exposed side of the seam sealing tape shall be black.

3.3.7 Reinforcement Tape. The nylon reinforcement tape for reinforcing the upper pockets to the parka and sleeve attachment tab assemblies shall be a black plain weave cloth with an adhesive of not less than 1.5 mils thick, cut into 1 (+ 1/16) inch wide strips. The reinforcement tape shall not to be used to seam seal stitched seams.

3.3.8 Hood drawcord tape, hanger tape, barrel lock anchors and snap attachment assembly tabs.

The hood drawcord tape and the snap attachment assembly tabs shall be a flat l/2 inch wide nylon tape, black in color conforming to type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The tape for the hanger loop and barrel lock anchors inside lower front pocket shall be a flat 3/8-inch wide nylon tape, black in color, conforming to type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The snap attachment assembly tabs shall be located as indicated by the pattern marks and shall contain a male and female snap (see Figure 1). The measurement of the snap attachment assembly tabs shall be taken from the stitch box to the folded end of the tab as shown in Figure 1. The lengths for the hood drawcord, hanger tapes, barrel lock anchors, and snap attachment assembly tabs are listed in Table III:

Table III - Lengths for hood drawcords, hanger tapes, barrel lock anchors, and snap attachment assembly tabs (in inches)

Size Hood drawcords (cut length)

Hanger tape (finished length)

Barrel lock anchors (inside lower pockets)

Snap attachment assembly tabs (unsnapped/finished length)

All sizes 36 2 (+ ¼) 4-1/2 (+ ¼) 4 (+ ¼)

3.3.9 Collar, waist, hood, and hem drawcord. The collar, waist, hood and hem drawcords shall be 3/16 inch in diameter multi-strand rubber elastic with braided nylon or polyester covering, black conforming to type II of MIL-C-43701, or a 3/16 (+ 1/32) inches in diameter, non-elastic polyester cord with a minimum tensile strength of 200 pounds in black, i.e. Rhode Island Textile style #13239 or equal. The cut lengths for the drawcords are specified in Table IV.

Table IV - Cut lengths for collar, waist & hem drawcords (in inches)

Size Collar Waist Hem X-Small 30 41-1/2 48 Small 31 45-1/2 52 Medium 31 49-1/2 56 Large 32 53-1/2 60 X-Large 32 57-1/2 64 XX-Large 34 59-1/2 68 Tolerance + 1 + 1 + 1

3.3.10 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The nylon fastener tapes shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. The color shall be black. The widths and lengths shall be as specified in Table V.

Table V – Hook and loop tape requirements (in inches)

Length and Width Location

Quantity Hook Loop

Outer Collar 3 1 x 2 Hood 3 1 x 2

Insignia tab 1 1 x 1 Parka (left front) 1 1 x 1

Sleeve 2 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 Sleeve tab 2 1-1/2 x 1-1/2

Sleeve pocket flap 4 1-1/2 x 1 Sleeve pocket 4 1-1/2 x 1

Lower pocket flap 4 1 x 2 Lower pocket 4 1 x 2

Tolerance + ¼ + 1/4

3.3.11 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners components and tapes shall be black and conform to A-A-55634.

3.3.11.1 Front closure slide fastener and thong. The front closure slide fastener shall be a Type III, style 8, size 8, continuous element polyester monofilament coil, equipped with a single long tab pull, automatic locking reverse bale slider with a hole large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch thong. The front closure slide fastener shall meet 200 pounds minimum crosswise strength as specified in A-A-55634. The tape side of the fastener tape shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick and the tape side with a film laminate allowing seam sealing of the slide fastener to the garment. The slide fastener thong may be made from the basic material or a 3/8 inch width black webbing conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The slide fastener thong shall be not less than 2 or more than 2-1/2 inch in length for all slide fasteners.

The front slide fastener lengths shall be as specified in Table VI.

3.3.11.1.1 Slide fastener finished measurements. After stitching, the slide fasteners tolerances shall measure as stated in A-A-55634; Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking).

Table VI - Front slide fastener lengths (in inches)

Garment Size Length

X-Small-X-Short 26 X-Small-Short 27 X-Small-Regular 28-1/2 X-Small-Long 30

Small-X-Short 26-1/2 Small-Short 27-1/2 Small-Regular 29 Small-Long 30-1/2 Small-X-Long 32

Medium-X-Short 27 Medium-Short 28 Medium-Regular 29-1/2 Medium-Long 31 Medium-X-Long 32-1/2

Large-X-Short 27-1/2 Large-Short 28-1/2 Large –Regular 30 Large –Long 31-1/2 Large-X-Long 33

X-Large-Short 29 X-Large –Regular 30-1/2 X-Large –Long 32 X-Large- X-Long 33-1/2

XX-Large-Regular 31 XX-Large- Long 32-1/2 XX-Large-X-Long 34

3.3.11.2 Underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners and thongs. The underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, Type I, style 7, size 5, continuous element polyester monofilament coil equipped with a single reverse bale slider. The tape side of the fastener chain shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick. The minimum crosswise breaking strength shall be 175 pounds. The underarm slide fastener length shall be 15 (+ 1/8) inches and be equipped with a non-locking, short tab pull slider. The upper pocket slide fastener length shall be 9 (+ 1/8) inches and be equipped with a short tab pull, automatic locking slider. The slide fastener thongs may be from the basic material or a 3/8 inch width black webbing conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The sliders shall have a hole large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch wide thong. The slide fastener thong shall be not less than 2 or more than 2-1/2 inch in length for all slide fasteners.

3.3.11.3 Inside slide fastener facing – for liner attachment. The inside facings slide fastener for the liner attachment shall be an interchangeable (per paragraph 2.2.12 of A-A-55634) individual element molded, separating fastener with single reversible automatic locking slider (roll over pull tab), Size 5, with 9/16 or 5/8 inch wide tape (YKK Style #898011). The tape and slide fastener shall be black. The strength and performance shall conform to A-A-55634; Table V;

paragraph A - J (Plastic, Class 1) (see 6.8.5). The slide fastener shall not have a fabric or webbing thong. The lengths for the inside slide fastener facing front opening shall be as specified in Table VII:

Table VII – Lengths for inside slide fastener facing for liner attachment) (in inches)

3.3.12 Barrel lock. The barrel lock for the collar, hood, waist and hem drawcords shall be a black, toaster ellipse conforming to ITW NEXUS part # 3500 or equal. All barrel locks shall have the loose ends anchored except for the collar adjustment and waist adjustment drawcords.

The drawcords shall be black.

3.3.13 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester, size B, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to type I, class 1, subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072. As an alternate, size 40, 2 or 3 ply polyester core thread conforming to Type I of A-A-50199 may be used. All thread shall be water-repellent treated as specified in MIL-T-3530 except for the thread used in the assembly of the inside upper pockets. The thread color shall be black.

3.3.14 Fastener, snap (liner attachment tabs). The snap fastener shall be style 2A, finish 2 male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet (size 1 or 2), button and socket, conforming to MIL-F-10884 with the exception that the socket shall be “Easy Action” or equal. The snap fastener shall be black. The distance between the male and female snap shall be 1-7/8 (+ 1/8) inch measured from center to center (see Figure 1). The female snap shall be placed 3/4 (+1/16) inch from folded end of two ply of attachment tab nylon tape. All components of the snap fastener shall be from the same supplier.

3.3.15 Labels. Each parka shall be labeled as follows.

3.3.15.1 Combination personal/identification/care label. Each parka shall have a combination personal/identification/care instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL- DTL-32075. The label shall be placed on the wearer’s right inside chest pocket positioned against the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from its edge.

Size X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Slide fastener length X-Short

Short Regular

Long X-Long

24 ½ 25 ½

28 ½

27 ½

30 ½

25 ½ 26 ½

29 ½

28 ½

31 ½

27 ½

30 ½

29 ½

32 ½

All of the printing shall be legible throughout the expected life of the parka. The color of the label shall be white or neutral. The printing shall show fastness to laundering and shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

PARKA, WORKING, US NAVY

100% NYLON SHELL AND LINER, PTFE LAMINATE

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR)

DATE OF MANUFACTURE (MM/YY):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

WARNING!!

DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, DRY CLEAN OR PRESS THE PARKA

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS

Home Laundering (Machine/Hand):

Use a Permanent Press or Normal Cotton Machine Setting or

Hand Wash Using a Mild Detergent. Rinse Thoroughly in Warm Water.

NOTE: Any Residual Detergent on The Parka Will Decrease The Water Repellency.

Home Drying:

Tumble Dry on Permanent Press or Cotton Setting, Remove Immediately From Dryer.

Do not drip dry.

or

Shipboard Laundry:

Parka Shall be Laundered Utilizing “Shipboard Formula III"

Shipboard Drying:

Tumble Dry at Low Temperature Setting. Remove Immediately From Dryer. Do Not Overheat or Over Dry. For Restoration of Water Repellent Finish, Dry at a Temperature Not to Exceed 150oF. Do not drip dry.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.3.15.2 Size label. Each parka shall have a size label, with the height and chest measurements indicated, conforming to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be placed on the wearer’s right inside chest pocket. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. The inscription shall be as stated below. There shall be no abbreviations for size and length except for “X” and “XX” in lieu of extra and extra, extra. The size label can be combined with the combination personal/identification/care instructions label.

Medium X-Short (Example) Height: Up to 63 in.

Chest From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small X-Short

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

Small X-Short

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

Small Short Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Small Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Small Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Small X-long Height: Height: Over 75 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

Medium X-Short

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

Medium Short

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Medium X-long Height: Over 75 in.

Large X-Short

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Short Height: Up to 67 in.

Large Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Large Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Large X-Long

X-Large Short

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: From 45 in. to 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Chest: From 45 in. to 49 in.

X-Large X-long

Chest: Over 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large Regular Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large Long Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

XX-Large X-Long

Chest: Over 49 in.

3.3.15.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The parka label/tag shall be attached to the slide fastener pull tab of the front closure.

3.3.16 Non-wicking buffer. The non-wicking buffer shall be a polyurethane adhesive, 2 (+0, -¼) inches in width and a minimum of 4.5 ml thick and shall be applied to the sleeve hems and parka hem across all seams unless otherwise specified.

3.4 Design. The parka shall have a collar with a drawcord for adjustment and a stowed hood, a water resistant slide fastener front closure and underarm openings. The parka shall have two upper chest pockets with concealed water resistant slide fastener openings, two lower pockets with flaps and concealed hand warmer pockets, adjustable wrist tabs, an insignia tab, and waist and hem drawcord adjustments that are concealed inside the lower pockets. A hanger loop shall be located on the top edge of the collar, metal chain shall not be used. The parka shall have an interoperable inside front slide fastener to interface with NCTRF PD 12-06 liner. The parka shall also have snap attachment assembly tab located at the inside bottom of each sleeve as indicated on the pattern (see Figure 1), for attaching the optional liner. The drawcords shall be anchored except for collar adjustment and waist adjustment drawcords. The bottom hems of sleeves and parka shall be even.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all sealed seams and 3/8 inch for all other seams, will be furnished by the Government. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment however, the design and finished measurements shall be maintained. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensions or appearance requirements.

3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table VIII.

Table VIII - List of pattern parts

Piece Name Nomenclature Cut Parts Cloth, laminated

CENTR_FRONT

CT_FT_PK_EX

UND_PKT_EXT

UPPER_BACK

LOWER_BACK

UPPER_FRONT

LOWER_FRONT

POCKET_FLAP

LOWER_POCKT

INSIGNIA_TB

HOOD

UPPR_SLEEVE

LOWR_SLEEVE

SLEEV_POCKT

LFT_PEN_PKT

SLV_PKT_FLP

SLEEVE_TAB

VISOR

OUTSID_CLLR

WST_CRD_CSG

Center front Center front pocket extension Upper pocket extension Upper back Lower back Upper front Lower front Pocket flap Lower pocket Insignia tab 1/ Hood Upper sleeve Lower sleeve Sleeve pocket Left pencil pocket Sleeve pocket flap Sleeve tab Visor Outside collar Waist cord casing

Cloth, nylon reinforcement

ELBOW_PATCH

Elbow patch

Cloth, plain weave

CHEST_POCKT

Chest pocket

Cloth, cotton, buckram

VISOR_INT

CHS_PKT_WLT

Visor interlining Chest Pocket Welt

Cloth, three-layer knit

INSIDE_CLLR

HOOD_TUNNEL

THROAT_TAB

LWR_PKT_BCK

Inside collar 2/ Hood tunnel Throat tab Lower pocket back

1/ Insignia tab may be cut in one piece with seam allowance along one side deducted.

2/ Cloth, laminated may be substituted.

3.6 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in Table IX and herein.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM- D-6193. The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table IX.

Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw or cut edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one may be used.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All 301 stitch and bartack thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.6.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 or 401 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

c. Repairs of 401 stitching shall be in accordance with 3.6.1.1.1.a and 3.6.1.1.1.b except utilizing a 301 stitch type.

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.6.1.2 Type 502, 503, 515 or 516 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.1.1.1. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length not less than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3 Bartacks/Linetacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be 3/8 (+ 1/32) inch in length, 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide, and shall contain 21 to 28 stitches. The 5/8 inch bartacks shall be 5/8 (+ 1/32) inch in length, 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide, and shall contain 35 to 46 stitches. All linetacks shall be 5/8 (+ 1/32) inch in length. Bartacking and linetacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.6.1.4 Sewn eyelets. All eyelets shall be 3/16 inch in inside diameter with a minimum of 19 stitches per eyelet with purling on the outside.

3.6.1.5 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and shall have at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.6.2 Heat sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in Table IX shall be sealed with heat sealing tape on the inside of the parka and concealed hood. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly sealed over the seam or stitching. All seam tapes shall be applied without tension and shall be applied so that a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap is on both sides of the sewn seam and the back knit of the laminated fabric adjacent to the seam tape shall not be melted to expose the plastic film layer of the laminated fabric. All seam tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining points and all ends of seam tape or taped cross-over areas shall be spot sealed without additional repair tape in accordance with seam tape manufacturer temperature, time and pressure recommendations for application with cross-over heat sealing machine. As an alternate, spot sealing for taped ends can be eliminated if hot air machine can automatically cut and seal ends of seam tape without any loose ends. However, spot sealing for taped cross-over areas shall remain. Sealed seams, cross-over area stitchings shall show no leakage, tape ends shall show no signs of lifting, and the tape itself shall show no sign of lifting, curling, bubbling or separation more than 1/8 inch of tape top knit shrinkage such that the tape middle layer is exposed when tested initially and after fifteen laundering cycles as specified in 4.4.4.

3.6.3 Appearance after laundering. After fifteen laundering cycles as specified in 4.4.4, the base fabric shall show colorfastness in the black printed areas of the digital patterns equal to or better than “3-4” rating on the AATCC Gray Scale for evaluating change in color and also shall show no significant change in physical surface appearance when compared to an unlaundered parka both in the base fabric and taped areas. Minor defects not affecting appearance, such as puckering on seam line or creases around taped area due to manufacturing operations are acceptable and shall be used for comparison to laundered sample.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The parka shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table IX. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished parka is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table IX. Any holding or basting stitch is permissible and shall be removed, shall not show on the finished garment, and shall not interfere with proper seam taping. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description.

3.7.1 Repairs. Repair of the parka by mending, patching or darning shall not be allowed, and at no time shall removal of the heat sealing tape permitted. However, up to 25 inches of heat sealing tape may be used to repair leaking seams, missing yarns in the tricot knit, and to repair areas where the original tape does not overlap the sewn seams by a minimum of 1/8 inch on both sides of the inside of parka. Up to five repair areas totaling 25 inches in length shall be allowed.

No more than five inches of repair using more than two layers of seam sealing tape shall be permitted, with the exception of the backside area of the sleeve pocket.

3.8 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel manufacturing equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table IX provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and that the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

Table IX. - Manufacturing Operation Requirements

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

1.

Cutting and marking.

a. Cut the parka in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement for pockets and welt, hook and loop fastener tapes, and marks for proper assembly. The directional lines indicate the warp direction, unless otherwise specified. The directional lines may vary from the warp direction by not more than 2- 1/2 inches on both front and back.

Measurements shall be taken from top and bottom of directional lines on pattern to selvage edge of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 2-1/2 inches. Cut all shell parts out of one piece of material except the inside slide fastener facing, pencil pocket, hood tunnel, visor and inside collar. As an alternate, slide fastener thongs may be cut from the basic material.

b. Cut drawcords, elastic cords, hanger tape and fastener tape lengths in accordance with the tables in paragraphs 3.3.6, 3.3.7, 3.3.8,

3.3.9 and 3.3.10. The drawcords shall be anchored except for the collar and waist adjustment drawcords.

NOTE: If not hot wire cut, as an alternate, drawcord ends may be dipped or impregnated with cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate to eliminate fraying.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

c. Inside slide fastener facing shall be strip cut of the three layer knit laminate 1-1/2 (-0, +1/8) inches wide and long enough to finish 1/8 inch from the finished top of the collar and ¾ inch from the cut edge of the bottom of parka. The strip cutting shall be cut with the length in the wale direction.

2. Replace damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material, defects, and damages, as classified in 4.4.2 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

3. Marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts to insure a correct shade and size throughout the parka. Drill holes shall not be used and markings shall not be visible on the outer shell of the parka.

4. Assemble collar.

a. Place eyelet reinforcement piece, (1/2 inch wide by 1 inch) on inside of outer collar, 1/4 inch below top cut edge at center of outer collar.

b. Make a 3/16 inch eyelet in center of outer collar top edge, 5/8 inch down from cut edge and centered on the reinforcement piece.

Whip or purl type

19 min

70/2 or

B B

c. Hem bottom outer collar by turning up the bottom edge 1/4 inch and stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1

10-13

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

d. Position three strips of loop (two horizontal and one in a vertical position) fastener tape on the tricot side of the collar in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

301 LSbj-1 10-13

e. Position inside collar, face to face on outside collar and stitch together along upper edge. Turn and top stitch 1/16-1/8 inch from edge.

SSe-2

f. Insert drawcord with barrel lock attached through the eyelet and stitch ends to front ends of inside collar.

301 SSa-1

10 –13 B B

g. Topstitch collar together with a second row of stitching 1/2 inch from first row of stitching. Note: Do not catch drawcord in stitching.

SSe-2(b)

10 –13 B B

h. Attach hanger loop using 3/8 inch wide nylon tape to the top edge of the inside collar at center back. Finished opening length shall be 2 (+ ¼) inches. The hanger loop shall lay flat and parallel with ends turned under and shall be bartacked. Bartack shall be 3/8 inch.

Note: Do not catch drawcord in stitching.

BRTK 28/brtk or

10-13 per linetack

B B

5. Assemble throat tab.

a. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch 1/4 inch from edges of flaps.

SSe-2(a)

b. Turn, work out corners or curves and edges. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from turned edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

6. Assemble insignia tab.

a. Center hook fastener tape at point of tab per marks on pattern and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

LSbj-1

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

b. Crease sides and point of the one piece tab. With face of the creased edges aligned, stitch around tab 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-1 10-13 B B

- or –

c. Position tab pieces face to face with edges aligned and stitch around sides and points 1/4 inch from edge.

SSe-(a) 10-13 B B

d. Turn tab, work out corners and edges.

Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edges.

301 SSe-(b)

10-13 B B

7. Assemble sleeve tabs.

a. Position hook fastener tape on face of tab in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

10 –13

b. Fold tab in half, face side out, and crease side cut edges. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edges.

- or -

EFn-2

c. Fold tab in half, face sides together, and stitch.

d. Turn face side out, work out corners and edges. Stitch 1/4 inch from edges.

SSe-2(b)

8. Assemble sleeve pocket flaps.

a. Position two loop fastener tapes on face of flap in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold flap in half, (face sides together) and with edges aligned, stitch ends of flap.

SSe-2(a) 10-13

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

c. Turn flap, work out corners and edges.

Stitch 1/4 inch from edge along sides and bottom of flap.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

9. Assemble sleeve pockets and left sleeve pencil pocket.

a. Fold under top cut edge of left sleeve pencil pocket 3/8 inch. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

b. Fold under top cut edge of sleeve pocket 1/2 inch. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded

EFa-1 10-13 B B

c. Position two hook fastener tapes on face of sleeve pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

d. Form bellows by folding sides of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch l/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

10-13 B B

10. Assemble lower pocket flaps.

a. Position two loop fastener tapes on face of flap in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold flap in half, with face sides together and edges aligned, stitch ends.

c. Turn flap, work out corners and edges.

Stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge around sides and bottom.

SSe-2(b) 10-13 B B

11. Assemble lower outside pockets.

a. On inner lower pocket, make a 3/16 inch eyelet in location indicated on pattern.

purl type

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

b. Turn under top edge of lower pockets 1/2 inch and stitch 1/4 to 3/8 inch from folded

c. Position two strips of hook fastener tape on face of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

d. Position lower inside pocket on outside pocket, with face sides together and notches aligned, stitch to the back side of pocket 1/4 inch from edge. Turn outside pocket face side out and stitch 1/8 inch from turned edge.

SSe-2 10-13 B B

12. Assemble hood.

a. Position hood pieces face to face, align edges and stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-1

b. With joining seam facing either side, place seaming tape over seam and heat seal.

c. Position three strips of hook fastener tape in accordance with marks on pattern on outside bottom of hood. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges. (The middle hook tape shall be centered over the hood joining seam).

d. Place heat seaming tape over fastener tape stitching and heat seal.

e. Position interlining on inside of visor piece. Stitch to straight edge of visor 1/8 (+1/16) inch from edge.

f. Turn under ends of hood tunnel 3/8 inch and stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1 10-13 B B

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

g. Center drawcord on hood tunnel. Fold hood tunnel over drawcord and stitch edges together 3/16 to 1/8 inch from cut edge. At center of tunnel, vertically tack tunnel and drawcord.

h. Position visor (face to face) on hood and stitch 1/4 inch from edge. Turn and force out curved edges and stitch 1/8 inch from turned edge of visor.

SSe-2

i. Position hood tunnel to face side of hood at the front notch and stitch 1/4 inch from the cut edge up to the visor junction, continue stitching across the straight edge of visor, and along remaining cut edge of hood to opposite front notch.

301 SSa-1 10-13 B B

j. Turn hood tunnel to inside of hood and stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge until it overlaps the visor edge stitching. Repeat operation on opposite side of hood.

301 LSbp(b)-1 10 –13 B B

k. Set barrel locks on ends of drawcord tape.

Extend drawcord tape beyond barrel locks and knot cord 1 inch from edge and stitch ends of drawcord tape to knit side of finished front edges of hood.

l. Place heat seaming tape over the hood tunnel stitching to the bottom edge of hood neckline seam and heat seal.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

13. Assemble upper front of parka and inside upper pockets.

a. Position size label and combination label on right (as worn) upper pocket, 3-1/4 (+ 1/8) inch from pocket top for all sizes and for sizes X-Small and Small 1 (+ 1/8) inch, for sizes Medium – XX-Large 2-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches from straight raw edge (side finishing nearest the slide fastener). Stitch labels to upper pocket, 1/8 inch from edges.

b. Overedge front edge of inside upper pocket to the center front pocket extension.

502, 503, 505, Or

Efd-1

10 -13

7 - 9

70/2 70/2

B B

c. Stitch chest pocket welt interlining, upper front and upper pocket extension together catching slide fastener in between. Stitch center front and center front pocket extension together catching other side of slide fastener.

Stitch upper front and center front together above and below pocket, ending at the notches.

d. Stitch pocket bags to extensions.

e. Sew the front pocket extension and the under pocket extension together catching ends of slide fastener tape, and stitch a 3/8 inch seam, starting at the notch and along top end of extension. Backstitch ends of seam.

Repeat operation for bottom of extension and opposite side.

502, 503, 505, Efd-1

7 – 9

10- 13

70/2 70/2

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

f. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch around curved pocket edges 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-2

g. Attach two 2-inch reinforcement tape tabs to the edge of pocket. The pocket shall be stitched on the tape, i.e., the finished position of the tape shall be between the pocket and the parka. One tape shall be positioned at the top curved edge of the pocket and the other 6 to 7-1/2 inches lower on the back edge of the pocket. Center a 1 inch line tack through reinforcement tape and pocket (on the safety stitching).

h. Position insignia tab on left (as worn) upper parka front, in accordance with mark on pattern and stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge of tab.

i. Position loop fastener tape on left front according to marks on pattern and align with hook portion of fastener tape on insignia tab.

301 SSa-1 10-13 B B

14. Assemble sleeves.

a. Position elbow patches, in accordance with marks on pattern, face side up on face of upper sleeves. Fold under front side, diagonal, and top edges 1/4 inch and stitch to sleeve 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

LSd-1

b. Position lower sleeve (face to face) on upper sleeve. Stitch sleeve together catching bottom edge of elbow patch.

LSq-2(a)

c. Turn down lower sleeve and with seam allowance facing up, stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned under edge of upper sleeve.

LSq-2(b)

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

d. Position a strip of loop fastener tape on lower sleeve as indicated by marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge with 1/2 inch overlap stitching.

LSbj-1 10 -13 B B

e. Position sleeve tab on sleeve in accordance with notches and in alignment with loop fastener tape. Stitch tab to sleeve 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10 -13 B B

f. Position pencil pocket, in accordance with marks on pattern, onto left sleeve with back side on face side of sleeve. Turn under left cut edge only 1/4 inch and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 from edge to bottom notch.

g. Place left sleeve pocket on left sleeve and align right cut edges of pocket and pencil pocket. Stitch cut edge of pockets together along right edge and across bottom.

h. Position right sleeve pocket, according to marks on pattern, face side up and turn under pocket edges 1/4 inch and stitch to sleeve 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges. Finished pockets are to be centered above elbow patches.

SSb-1 10 -13 B B

i. Position sleeve pocket flap on sleeve in accordance with marks on pattern, centered over the pocket. Stitch to sleeve. Fold sleeve pocket flap down and topstitch 1/4 (± 1/16) inch from fold, burying cut edge.

LSbk-2

LSbl-2

10 -13 B B

j. Lay heat seaming tape on inside of sleeve, covering all stitching and heat seal.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

15. Assemble fronts – attach pockets and flaps.

a. Position outside lower pocket assembly, face up, on lower front. Align pocket with bottom cut edges of front and cut edge of waist seam. Stitch around pocket at waist seam, front catching barrel lock and tape for hem drawcord and bottom, 1/8 inch from

b. Close back of pocket and form hand opening by stitching back edge of pocket to front starting at the waist seam, coming down 1/2 to 3/4 inch below top edge of pocket and backtack, creating a 7 1/2 (+ ¼) inch opening, backtack and continue stitching to bottom of front. Bartack or linetack top and bottom of hand opening with a horizontal 3/8 inch tack.

Brtck

SSa-1 10 -13

28/brtk

10-13 per linetack

c. Stitch lower pocket flaps to upper front in alignment with upper pocket opening stitch line. Flaps shall be positioned according to pattern marks to finish even with the back edge of pocket. Flaps shall be turned down and ¼ inch topstitched in finished position above joining seam of upper and lower fronts.

d. Lay heat seaming tape over the stitching attaching the back end of pocket to lower front and heat seal.

16. Assemble parka.

a. With face sides together stitch lower fronts to lower back at side seams.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

LPR

con’t

b. Make a 3/16 inch eyelet at each end of waist drawcord casing in accordance with marks on pattern. Center of eyelet shall finish 1-1/4 (+1/8) inch from cut end of casing. Thread elastic cord through eyelets and barrel locks and tie with knot.

purl type

c. Position waist drawcord casing on lower front in accordance with marks on pattern.

Turn under ends and lower edge. Stitch 1/8 inch from folded edges.

SSb-1

d. With face sides together and edges aligned, position sleeves on parka (right and left respectively) and stitch.

e. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch upper parka side seams to underarm opening notch on upper sleeve and back tack. Continue seaming from lower sleeve notch to bottom of sleeve, catching sleeve tab in stitching.

f. With face sides together position upper parka on lower parka. Align front edges, match side seams and stitch parka together catching upper edge of waist drawcord casing in stitching. Do not catch waist drawcord in stitching.

g. Lay the heat seaming tape on the inside of parka over side seams, center front/inside upper pocket seams, waist seam, sleeve attachment seams, top and bottom pocket extensions and heat seal.

h. Position collar on parka and with face sides together and front edges aligned, stitch collar (inner and outer) to parka as far as first notch. Insert hood and continue stitching inner collar and hood to the opposite front notch. Continue stitching collar (inner and outer) to parka.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

17. Set underarm slide fastener.

a. At each end of slide fastener, clip shell under arm seam at an angle to allow a 3/4 inch opening width.

b. Position slide fastener face down on underarm seam outlet between notches and with back edge of fastener tape even with cut edge of outlet. Stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from back edge of tape. Tack top and bottom of the angle clipping (tongue notch) to end of slide fastener tape.

c. Turn under slide fastener to finished position and topstitch underarm seam thru all plies 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch from folded edge.

The slide fastener pull shall finish toward bottom of sleeve.

SSe-1

d. Lay heat seaming tape over top, sides and bottom of slide fastener stitching, sleeve seams and heat seal.

NO. OPERATION STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

IN

THREAD

NDL BOB/

18. Attach front slide fastener.

a. Position back edge of slide fastener tape even with left (as worn) front edge of parka and align with top of collar, top of throat tab and front edge. The throat tab shall be visible when the tab is set into the parka.

Fold under top end of slide fastener tape between tab and parka. Stitch to parka front 1/4 inch from front edge catching tab and lower pocket in the stitching. Match opposite slide fastener tape with right front (as worn) at bottom and repeat operation.

Fold front edge of parka forming a slide fastener welt and stitch 3/8 inch from folded…