GL-PD-06-05B___9_MAR_15.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-06-05B

9 March 2015

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-06-05A

October 23, 2013

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, SOFT SHELL COLD WEATHER (GEN III)

This Purchase Description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a soft shell jacket, which serves as a layer of the GEN III Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (ECWCS).

1.2 Classification. The jacket will be of the following types, classes, and sizes, as specified.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - Plain weave, stretch, nylon and spandex cloth

Type II - Twill weave, aramid, cellulosic, synthetic cloth

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 - Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP)

Class 2 - Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP)

Class 3 - Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

1.2.3 Schedule of sizes.

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

Short Short - - - -

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

- Long Long Long Long Long

- - - - X-Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 15 Kansas St., Natick MA 01760. ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC.

FSC 8415

GL/PD-06-05B

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55634 - Zipper, (Fastener, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-10884 - Fasteners, Snap

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY NATICK SOLDIER RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT AND ENGINEERING

CENTER

2-1-2519 - Universal Camouflage, ARPAT, 3-Color

2-1-2592 - Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) https://assist.dla.mil/

NOTE: For any other camouflage patterns noted in the solicitation and contract, please contact contracting activity and the necessary samples, drawings and or patterns will be provided.

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering Center, 15 Kansas Street, Natick, MA 01760-5019 ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC)

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

16 CFR Part 1500 – Federal Hazardous Substances Act Regulations

29 CFR Part 1910 – Occupational Safety and Health Standards

(Copies of these documents are available online at: http://www.access.gpo.gov or from the, U.S.

Government Printing Office, 732 North Capitol St., N.W., Washington, DC 20401.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

CO/PD-06-05 - Patch and Brassard, Identification, Infrared Retroreflective

(Copies of purchase descriptions, specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specification procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AEROSPACE INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA INC.

AIA/NAS NASM 20652/1B - Eyelets, Metallic, and Eyelet Washers, Metallic

(Copies are available online at http://www/aia-aerospace.org or from the Aerospace Industries

Association of America Inc, 1000 Wilson Boulevard, Suite 1700, Arlington, VA 22209-3928 or from the IHS Standards Store at http://aero-defense.ihs.com/documents)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method - 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method - 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method - 16.2 - Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc

AATCC Test Method - 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method - 20 - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC Test Method - 22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC Test Method - 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method - 70 - Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption

AATCC Test Method - 96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool

AATCC Test Method - 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC Test Method - 150 - Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering http://www.access.gpo.gov/ http://www/aia-aerospace.org http://aero-defense.ihs.com/documents

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - Chromatic Transference Scale, 9-Step

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600

North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles

ASTM D 737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D 747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam

ASTM D 751 - Standard Test Methods Coated Fabrics

ASTM D 1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling –

Pendulum (Elmendorf Type) Apparatus

ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D 3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Fabric Count of

Woven Fabric

ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM E 96 - Standard Test Method for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this http://www.aatcc.orgul/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.1).

3.2 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the requirements of this document and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The soft shell jacket has a center front opening with a two (2)-way fastener closure and a front wind protection flap. It has a collar with a cover for an enclosed collapsible hood; a hood with a binding that covers an elastic cord that has cord lock adjustments; raglan sleeves with hook and loop pockets and slide fastener (zipper) opening for ventilation under the sleeve. Two (2) front pockets with slide fastener (zipper) openings and an elastic cord in the bottom hem for adjustability. All slide fasteners have a thong for ease of opening when wearing gloves. This design provides a garment that is light in weight, low in bulk, has environmental protection and comfort in movement (see figures 1, 2 and 3).

3.5 Basic materials.

3.5.1 Standard sample. All cloth materials shall match the applicable standard sample for shade and appearance on the face side, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.5.1.1 Basic shell material (Type I). The cloth for Type I shall be a plain weave, stretch, nylon and spandex cloth (texture approximating 95 by 60 yarns per inch, warp and filling, respectively), with water repellency, meeting the performance requirements of Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII. The color of the cloth shall be Universal Camouflage Pattern

(UCP) for Class 1, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) for Class 2 and

Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) for Class 3.

3.5.1.2 Basic shell material (Type II). The cloth for Type II shall be a twill weave, aramid, cellulosic, synthetic cloth with water repellency, and shell meet the performance requirements of

Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII. The color of the cloth shall be Universal

Camouflage Pattern (UCP) for Class 1, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-

CP) for Class 2 and Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) for Class 3.

3.5.1.3 Physical requirements. The cloths shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested in accordance to the test methods specified in Table VIII.

TABLE I. Basic shell material - physical requirements

Characteristic Type I Requirement Type II Requirement

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)

Threshold 5.5 5.8

Objective 4.5 -

Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp, Objective 165 90

Warp, Threshold 145 -

Filling (min.) 130 130

Elongation, percent:

Threshold -

Warp 40-80 -

Filling 70-120 -

Objective -

Warp 45-60 -

Filling 80-100 -

Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp 8.0 6.0

Filling 8.0 15.0

Air Permeability, cu.ft/sq.ft/min. (max) 5 10

Moisture vapor transmission Rate, g/m /24h (min.)

Threshold 600 900

Objective 1200 1200

Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

At 70ºF, Objective 0.001 0.001

Threshold 0.002 0.002

At 32ºF, Objective 0.001 0.001

Threshold 0.002 0.002

Blocking, rating (max.) No. 2 No. 2

Water permeability, cm (min.) -

Initial 30 20

Spray rating, rating

Initial, and 100, 100, 90 100, 100, 90

After five (5) launderings 100, 90, 90 100, 90, 90

Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail -

Initial No wetting -

TABLE I. Basic shell material - physical requirements - Continued

Characteristic Type I Requirement Type II Requirement

Dynamic absorption, percent (max.)

Threshold 25.0 20

Objective 4.0 4

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp 5.5 3.5

Filling 5.0 2.5

Color & Colorfastness See 3.5.1.4 - 3.5.1.4.3.1 and Table II

Pattern Execution See 3.5.1.5 - 3.5.1.4.3.1

Spectral Reflectance See 3.5.1.6 & Tables III, III.A and III.B

Toxicity 1/ (see 3.12)

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.1.4 Color.

3.5.1.4.1 Class 1, Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP). The color of the cloth shall be

Universal Camouflage Pattern and shall match Desert Sand 500, Urban Gray 501, and Foliage

Green 502. Each area of the specific color of the pattern shall be in accordance with the applicable standard sample or drawing number 2-1-2519.

3.5.1.4.2 Class 2, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP). The color of the face side of the cloth shall be Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern

(OEF-CP) dyed to a ground shade either matching or approximating Cream 524 and then shall be overprinted with the camouflage pattern. When the ground shade is dyed to match Cream 524, the remaining six (6) colors shall be printed as appropriate, for the Tan 525, Pale Green 526, Olive 527, Dark Green 528, Brown 529 and Dark Brown 530 areas of the pattern. When the ground shade is not dyed to approximate Cream 524 all seven (7) colors of the camouflage pattern shall be printed to match all seven (7) colors. Each area of the specific color of the pattern shall be in accordance with the applicable standard sample (see 6.4).

3.5.1.4.3 Class 3, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP). The color of the face side of the cloth shall be Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) dyed to a ground shade either matching or approximating Dark Cream 559 and then shall be overprinted with the camouflage pattern.

When the ground shade is dyed to match Dark Cream 559, the remaining six (6) colors shall be printed as appropriate, for the Tan 525, Light Sage 560, Olive 527, Dark Green 528, Brown 529 and Bark Brown 561 areas of the pattern. When the ground shade is not dyed to approximate

Dark Cream 559 all seven (7) colors of the camouflage pattern shall be printed to match all seven

(7) colors. Each area of the specific color of the pattern shall be in accordance with the applicable standard sample or drawing number 2-1-2592.

3.5.1.4.3.1 Colorfastness. The colorfastness for finished Class 1 (UCP), Class 2 (OEF-CP), and Class 3 (OCP) cloths shall meet the requirements listed in Table II, when evaluated as specified in Table VIII.

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements (Classes 1, 2 and 3)

Class

Colors

Evaluation

Laundering (3 cycles) (min.)

Color Change

& Staining

Light

(40 hrs or

170 kJ)

(min.)

Perspiration

(acid & alkaline)

Color Change &

Staining (min.)

Crocking

(Wet & Dry)

(min.)

Class 1

(UCP)

All colors 3-4 3-4 --- 3.5

Class 2

(OEF-CP)

All colors 3-4 --- 3-4 3.5

Dk. Green 528, Brown 529, Dark

Brown 530

--- 3-4 --- ---

Cream 524, Tan

525, Pale Green

526, Olive 527

--- 3 --- ---

Class 3

(OCP)

All colors 3-4 --- 3-4 3.5

Dk. Green 528, Brown 529, Bark Brown 561

--- 3-4 --- ---

Dark Cream 559, Tan 525, Light Sage 560

Olive 527

--- 3 --- ---

3.5.1.5 Pattern execution.

3.5.1.5.1 Class 1, Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP). The Universal Camouflage Pattern

(UCP) shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches

(+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable.

When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution or design, a pattern drawing shall be provided, and the pattern on the finished cloth shall match that of Drawing 2-1-2519.

3.5.1.5.2 Class 2, Operational Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP). The pattern on the printed finished cloth(s) shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the Operational Freedom Camouflage

Pattern (OEF-CP) shall be 25.255 (+1.25, -2.50) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution, a pattern drawing provided by the Government at the time of award shall be used (see 2.2.2, 6.2, and 6.4).

3.5.1.5.3 Class 3, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP). The pattern on the printed finished cloth(s) shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the Operational Camouflage pattern (OCP) shall be

25.255 (+1.25, -2.50) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution or design, a pattern drawing shall be provided, and the pattern on the finished cloth shall match that of Drawing 2-1-2592.

3.5.1.5.3.1 Pattern width (filling direction for OCP Class). The maximum width of the camouflage printed area for Class 3 OCP shall be 68-inches in the filling direction.

3.5.1.6 Spectral reflectance.

3.5.1.6.1 Spectral reflectance, Class 1, Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP). The spectral reflectance of the colors in the Universal Camouflage cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.6.8.

TABLE III. Spectral reflectance requirements: reflectance (percent) for Class 1

Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP)

Wavelength, Desert Sand 500 Urban Gray 501 Foliage Green 502

Nanometers (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

600 28 40 12 26 8 18

620 30 42 14 26 8 18

640 34 48 14 28 8 20

660 38 56 14 30 10 26

680 44 60 18 34 10 26

700 46 66 24 38 12 28

720 48 68 26 42 16 30

740 48 72 30 46 16 30

760 50 74 32 48 18 32

780 54 76 34 48 18 34

800 54 76 34 50 20 36

820 54 76 36 54 22 38

840 55 78 38 54 24 40

860 56 78 40 56 26 42

3.5.1.6.2 Spectral reflectance, Class 2, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern

(OEF-CP). The spectral reflectance of the colors in the OEF-CP cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table III.A, when tested as specified in 4.6.8.

TABLE III.A. Spectral reflectance requirements: reflectance (percent) for Class 2

Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP)

Cream 524

Tan 525

Pale Green 526

Olive 527

Brown 529

Dark Green 528

Dark Brown 530

Wavelength (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

600 22 44 10 30 3 12

620 24 45 11 30 3 12

640 24 45 11 32 4 12

660 25 45 12 32 4 13

680 28 48 14 35 4 18

700 28 54 19 40 6 25

720 30 58 22 43 6 27

740 32 60 25 46 10 29

760 36 61 27 48 14 33

780 38 62 28 50 18 36

800 40 62 29 50 20 37

820 44 65 30 51 20 38

840 46 66 32 51 21 39

860 48 67 33 52 21 40

3.5.1.6.3 Spectral reflectance, Class 3, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP). The spectral reflectance of the colors in the OCP cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in

Table III.B, when tested as specified in 4.6.8.

TABLE III.B. Spectral reflectance requirements: reflectance (percent) for Class 3

Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Dark Cream 559

Tan 525

Light Sage 560, Olive 527, Brown

Dark Green 528

Bark Brown 561

Wavelength (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

600 22 44 10 30 3 12

620 24 45 11 30 3 12

640 24 45 11 32 4 12

660 25 45 12 32 4 13

680 28 48 14 35 4 18

700 28 54 19 40 6 25

720 30 58 22 43 6 27

740 32 60 25 46 10 29

760 36 61 27 48 14 33

780 38 62 28 50 18 36

TABLE III.B Spectral reflectance requirements: reflectance (percent) for Class 3 - Continued

Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Dark Cream 559

Tan 525

Light Sage 560, Olive 527, Brown

Dark Green 528

Bark Brown 561

Wavelength (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

800 40 62 29 50 20 37

820 44 65 30 51 20 38

840 46 66 32 51 21 39

860 48 67 33 52 21 40

3.5.2 Mesh tricot pocket lining. Lining fabric shall be tricot knit mesh of 100 percent polyester or equal. The color shall be Urban Gray 505 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and

Class 3. The fabric cloth shall meet the physical requirements specified in Table IV and the colorfastness requirements of Table IV.A when tested as specified in Table VIII.

TABLE IV. Mesh tricot pocket lining - physical requirements (all classes)

Characteristics Requirement

Weight (oz./sq yd) 2.0 (± 0.2)

Dimensional Stability, percent (max.)

Warp

Filling

5.0

5.0

Colorfastness: See Table IVA

Toxicity 1/

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

TABLE IV.A. Colorfastness requirements, mesh tricot pocket lining (see 3.5.2) (all classes)

Class

Colors

Evaluation

Laundering

(3 cycles)

Color Change &

Staining (min.)

Light

(40 hrs or

170 kJ)

(min.)

Perspiration

(acid & alkaline)

Color Change &

Staining (min.)

Crocking

(Wet &

Dry)

(min.)

Class 1 Urban Gray

3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5

Class 2

(OEF-CP) &

Class 3

(OCP)

Tan 499 3-4 --- 3-4 3.5

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be nylon conforming to A-A-

59826, Type I, Tex size 45-46, 2 or 3 ply (Government size B) or Type II, Tex size 45-51, 2 or 3 ply (Government size B). As an alternate, bobbin/looper threads can be nylon, Type I Tex size

30-32, 2 or 3 ply (Government size AA) or Type II Tex size 30-36, 2 or 3 ply (Government size

AA). The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3, unless otherwise specified in the contract.

3.6.2 Identification friend or foe material. The IFF material shall conform to Type I of

CO/PD-06-05.

3.6.3 Webbing/tape. Tape, MIL-PRF-5038, Type-III, 3/8-inch wide shall be used to construct the slide fastener thong and the retainer for the barrel lock, 1-inch wide shall be used to construct the shoulder pocket webbing tab. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and

Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3.

3.6.4 Tape, hook, and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class

1 of A-A-55126, with selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8-inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of (± 1/16) inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and

Class 3, unless otherwise specified in the contract.

3.6.4.1 Colorfastness, tape hook and loop. The colorfastness of the hook and loop tape shall meet the requirements as specified in A-A-55126.

3.6.4.2 Hook and loop laundry durability test method. When tested in accordance with

4.6.17, the hook and loop tapes shall not exhibit fraying edges, peeling yarns, or damage appearance that detracts from the tape appearance or durability.

3.6.5 Elastic cord. The elastic cord shall be 1/8-inch width (+1/32-inch, - 0 inch), elastic cord, elongation: 120 percent (± 10) percent; weight per linear yard, 0.2-ounces (maximum);

picks per inch, 60 (minimum); number of carriers 16 (minimum); ends per carrier, 1; number of elastic strands, 12 (minimum); cover yarn, polyester. The elastic cord shall have a seared and knotted end. The color shall match Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and

Class 3, unless otherwise specified in the contract. Testing shall be as specified in Table VIII and 4.6.

3.6.6 Elastic material. The elastic material used on the cuffs shall be in accordance with

MIL-W-5664, Type II, 1-1/4-inch (± 1/16) inch wide. The elastic material may be Black or approximate Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3 conforming to the spectral reflectance requirements in Table III.A for Class 2 and Table III.B for Class 3 when tested as specified in 4.6.8.

3.6.7 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, with the types and styles as specified in 3.6.7.1 and 3.6.7.2. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for

Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and Class 3.

3.6.7.1 Front slide fasteners. Front closure slide fastener (zipper) shall be plastic individual element, Type III, Style 13 (separating double auto-lock sliders such that opens both from top and bottom), No. 5 chain with 100 pounds minimum crosswise strength with water repellent

(WR) treated tape and thong on top slider. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and

Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3. Separating and disengaging slide fastener (zipper) should function in a smooth even manner with no hang-ups, jamming or reason to adjust slider position.

3.6.7.2 Side pocket and underarm slide fasteners (zippers). Side pocket and underarm slide fasteners (zippers) shall be A-A-55634, No 5 with 175 pounds minimum crosswise strength, continuous element reverse* chain, Type I, style 7, auto-lock slider with thong, closed top, closed bottom stop with Water Repellent (WR) treated tape. The color shall be Foliage Green

504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3. Pulling up on slider closes side pocket and pulling towards front closes underarm slide fasteners (zippers). *Reverse chain is when zipper tape side and slider pull represents face.*

3.6.8 Barrel lock. The barrel locks shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (see 3.6.5) at –40°F, 70°F and 140°F when tested in accordance with 4.6.11. The barrel lock shall be 1/2-inch by 3/8-inch elliptical or 3/8-inch round shape, minimum push-button size. The color shall match Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3.

3.6.9 Snap fasteners. Snap fasteners shall conform to MIL-DTL-10884 Style 2A. The snap fasteners shall have a black chemical finish, except the button cap shells may have a Foliage

Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3, baked-on enamel finish. The enamel shall be uniformly coated over the top surface of the shell including the visible portion of the edge.

The gloss for the black chemical finish and the enamel finish shall be no more than 40. The enamel shall be capable of withstanding attachment operations without removal of any enamel.

The enamel coating shall be smooth and free of sags, runs, and streaks.

3.6.10 Eyelets. The eyelets used on each side of the hood and in the hem shall be in accordance with NASM-20652/1B, aluminum or brass and have an internal diameter of 0.156 inch to 0.200 inch (dash No. ABE-102) or as an alternate BBE-114 may be used. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3.

3.6.11 Cannon clip. The cannon clip used in the back of the hood, shall be Foliage Green

504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3 and shall be equal to or better than Part #743-0125 of ITW Nexus.

3.6.12 Grommet. The grommet used in the back of the hood shall be in accordance with

Type III, Class 3, size zero (0) of NASM-16491. The color shall be Foliage Green 504 for Class

1 and Tan 499 for Class 2 and 3.

3.6.13 Interfacing. The interfacing fabric shall be 100 percent polyester, non-woven, mid weight fusible interfacing.

3.6.14 Binding tape. The binding tape shall be a lightweight (approximately 2 ounces per square yard), plain or twill weave polyester or nylon lining bias slit. The color shall be Foliage

Green 504 for Class 1 and Tan 499 conforming to the spectral reflectance requirements of Table

III.A for Class 2 and Table III.B for Class 3. The width shall be such to conceal the slide fastener tape and not impede the slide fastener operation.

3.7 Construction. See figures 1- 4 and patterns for details.

3.7.1 Front slide fastener (zipper) (left pin side) – Pre-sew 2-inch by 2-inch loop tape onto face and 4 5/8-inch by 2-inch loop tape strips onto back of slide fastener (zipper) cover per pattern placement, insert interfacing and sew ends with SSe-2. Set socket snap into base of cover per pattern placement. Top stitch around three (3) sides, 1/16-inches from edge. Sew slide fastener (zipper) tape binding with seam BSb-1. Sew zipper tape, double layer of tricot knit pocketing to outer-shell with SSa-1, turn, place on slide fastener (zipper) cover and sew with

LSq-2 through all layers into inner binding. On upper 4-inches of slide fastener (zipper), tape will be inserted between outer and inner hide-away hood assembly. Finished slide fastener

(zipper) cover should extend 1-inch nominal from edge of slide fastener (zipper) teeth.

3.7.1.1 Front slide fastener (zipper) (right pin side). Insert interfacing into slide fastener

(zipper) backing strips and sew with SSe-2 with four (4) topstitching lines done 1/4-inch apart.

Sew outer-shell to slide fastener (zipper) tape and overstitch with double layer tricot knit pocketing, binding tape and slide fastener (zipper) cover with SSa-1. Turn and topstitch outer-shell 1/16-inch from edge adjacent to slide fastener (zipper) tape. Slide fastener (zipper) backing shall protrude 3/4-inch nominal from slide fastener (zipper) teeth edge. Set stud portion of snap per pattern placement. Sew four (4), 5/8-inch by 2-inch hook tapes per pattern placement. When slide fastener (zipper) is engaged, finished appearance should slide fastener (zipper) cover flat and even with no puckering with bottom snap, hook and loop strips and left and right side of hem even and in alignment.

3.7.1.2 Underarm slide fasteners (zippers). Slide Fastener (zipper) to be applied in outer triangle underarm seam per pattern placement. Fold slide fastener (zipper) backing strip longitudinally in half and topstitch four (4) stitch lines, 1/4-inch apart starting 1/16-inch from edge. Over-edge other opposite side. Attach backing strip with SSa-1. Sew slide fastener

(zipper) tapes to both sides of outer-shell slit with LSd-1. Slide Fastener (zipper) shall close when slider pulled toward parka center. Finished appearance of slide fastener (zipper) shall be smooth and even with outer topstitching in alignment with center underarm seam and no gaps in top or bottom stops. Use short 3-inch thong.

3.7.2 Front pocket assembly. Sew tricot knit pocket lining at pocket entry to inside slide fastener (zipper) tape with seam LSd-1 on cover side and SSa-1 with turn on opposite. On slide fastener (zipper) cover side sew slide fastener (zipper) cover facing to face of slide fastener

(zipper) tape with SSa-1. Sew facing strip to outer-shell with seam SSe-2, topstitch 3/16-inch nominal from edge. Attach outer-shell to noncovered tape side with SSa-1 for LSd-1 finish.

Topstitch 1/16-inch from edge catching slide fastener (zipper) tape and pocket knit. Bartack top and bottom of slide fastener (zipper). Slide fastener (zipper) shall close when slider pulled up.

Finished appearance shall show slide fastener (zipper) cover and topstitch in flat even manner in line with first quadrant side seam. Pocket pouch area shall be defined with base LSbj-1 stitch line, first quadrant side seam, top horizontal chest seam, and tucking under slide fastener (zipper) tape seam.

3.7.2.1 Arm sleeve pocket. Assemble pocket flap. Sew two (2), 1-inch by 1-1/2 inch. hook tape strips and one (1), 1-inch by 1-inch loop strip on inside flap and one (1), 2-inch by 4-inch loop tape strip and 2-inch long by 1-inch wide, Foliage Green 504 color for Class 1 and Tan 499 for Classes 2 and 3, webbing release tab with 1-inch by 1-inch hook tape on inside of outer flap per pattern placement. Fold pocket flap strip longitudinally in half. Sew sides with seam SSe-2, topstitch three (3) sides 1/16-inch along edges. Sew to outer-shell pattern placement with LSq-2.

Bar tack each end of flap. Fold over top 1-inch portion of main pocket body for top hem.

Assemble cargo pocket bellow side and bottom locations with seam OSf-1 per pattern placement.

Back tack top of No. 1 vertical and horizontal bellow location. Sew one (1), 4-inch by 6-inch loop tape strip to center of main pocket body piece per pattern placement. Sew bottom corner bellow strips together with seam SSa-1 and bottom bellow strip to main body with seam SSe-2.

Back tack each corner 1/2-inch back. Sew top hem with LSd-1, 1-inch from top edge, including side bellows. Topstitch 1/16-inch from top edge. Attach entire pocket assembly with LSd-1 leaving 1/4-inch drainage gap at center bottom of pocket with double backstitching going back

3/8-inch from opening or sewn in drainage hole. Finished appearance of pocket should show pocket flap and loop tapes in alignment with body of pocket with topstitching 1/16-inch around all sides of pocket and flap. Side and bottom bellows shall be in alignment with reinforced drain hole at base of pocket. The flap shall have a 1-inch by 2-inch long seared pull tab with hoop tape capable of attaching to either the main body of the pocket or being tucked under the flap with

IFF indicator tab sewn to the underside of the tab, visible when attached to the outer side of shoulder pocket flap (see Figure 4) NOTE: A 3/4-inch bar tack between the two (2) hook tapes as shown on Figure 4 is optional).

3.7.3 Arm sleeve hem adjustment tab. Sew pattern strips with seam SSe-2. Sew 3/4-inch by

1-1/2 inch hook tape strip to inside surface of tab per pattern placement.

3.7.4 Chest name tag and rank loop tapes. Attach 1-inch by 5-1/4 inch chest name loop tapes and 2-inch by 2-inch rank tape per pattern placement.

3.7.5 Front lining. Pre-sew lower knit pocket pouch assembly with LSbj-1. Assemble front knit lining pattern pieces into zipper tape side with Ssa-1, tuck into hem, and over edge inside and top together with side, underarm and horizontal chest primary seams with top stitching for finished LSq-2.

3.7.6 Arm sleeve cuff hem. Sew arm sleeve hem strip end to end with seam LSq-2, while catching adjustment tab and 5-inch elastic end into seam. Sew 3/4-inch by 5-inch loop tape strip per pattern placement onto hem strip. Fold hem strip longitudinally in half and topstitch other elastic end matching up with loop tape end. Stretch elastic out and topstitch center with backstitching at each end. Over edge hem strip, while catching 3/8-inch webbing loop into over edge to end of sleeve cuff to form seam LSq-2. Webbing loop shall have opening of 1-1/4 inch

Topstitch 1/4-inch nominal from edge. Finished appearance shall show cuff flat and even with elastic drawback within elasticized zone capable of stretching to min of 6-1/2 inch with recovery and adjustment tab in alignment with hem loop tape and with inside webbing hold down loop.

The finished, lay-flat diameter measurement of the cuff in its relaxed position shall be 5-1/4 inches.

3.7.6.1 Hem seam. Set four (4), 1/8-inch metal eyelets per pattern placement and weave cord through eyelets. Pre-sew elastic cord ends into pin and box zipper sides, insert elastic cord equipped with two (2) barrel locks with plastic anti-slip through beads and two (2), 3/8-inch wide webbing cord lock hold down loops into seam per pattern placement and topstitch entire upper hem with single continuous EFb-1 seam.

3.7.7 Hood with two (2) barrel lock tunnels (top hood and back hood). Topstitch one (1), 5/8-inch by 1-inch loop tape to center hood panel and two (2), 5/8-inch by 1-inch loop tapes to side hood panels per pattern placement. Set in two (2), 1/8-inch metal eyelets on both sides of hood panels (four (4) eyelets total) per pattern placement. Sew three (3) primary panels with

LSq-3. Top hood Tunnel - Sew upper hood cord lock tunnel strips together with LSq-3. Snake elastic cord into eyelets while applying plastic cord locks at position between eyelets at base of hood. Tie off elastic ends through lower eyelet. Sew top hood tunnel strip to upper hood panels with LSq-2 with elastic cord inserted into tunnel. Prior to final sewing of tunnel sew in second back hood tunnel strip. Set 5/16-inch metal grommet in back center of hood, insert looped 4-inch long 3/8-inch webbing strip into grommet in preparation of sewing hanger loop, and topstitch webbing end along tunnel side topstitching, over edge both sides of tunnel strip, topstitch back hood strip per pattern placement with elastic cord within tunnel and catching center webbing hanger loop into stitch line. Final sew top tunnel with LSd-1 while catching back hood tunnel ends into stitch line along with end of 3/8-inch webbing with elastic cord attachment. Reinforce webbing ends (webbing with elastic cord ends and hanger loop).

3.7.7.1 Hide-away (HA) collar assembly. Assembly is comprised of three (3) pieces, the top collar, under collar, and under collar facing. Over edge raw cut side of under collar facing and sew on three (3), 1-inch by 5/8-inch hook tape strips per pattern placement. Attach collar facing to upper collar with SSe-2. Turn collar facing and upper collar out, so they both lay back to back and topstitch at the edge. Attach upper edge of collar facing and under collar to upper collar edge of top collar with SSe-3. Sew top collar to body of jacket with LSq-2 with size tag in center of neck line. Topstitch 5/8-inch by 2-inch hook strip to HA collar per pattern placement.

Finished appearance of hood and HA hood assembly shall show hood with three (3) plastic cord locks capable of adjusting hood size along top visor and center back side and webbing loop tape at back center for hanging jacket. Hood shall possess capability to stow away into collar assembly at three (3) points (center and either side) with collar cover aligned baseline stitching hood attachment. With front slide fastener (zipper) engaged, the top slide fastener (zipper) cover loop strip shall align with the HA collar hook tape.

3.8 Labels. Each jacket shall have a label in accordance with Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-

DTL-32075. The color of the labels shall approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric or white. In addition it shall contain a bar coding label in accordance with Type VIII and Class 17.

3.8.1 The combination size, identification and instruction label for the jacket. The combination label shall be sewn on the inside of the jacket along the middle back seam of the collar area. The printed label shall be facing the body. The instruction label shall include the following information:

Jacket, Soft Shell Cold Weather

Care instruction label

LAUNDERING (do not dry clean)

a. Home laundering. The garment shall be machine laundered using the delicate/gentle fabric cycle or laundered by hand. Use cold water (up to 90°F/32°C) and cold water laundry detergent (i.e., Liquid Tide or Era Plus). Rinse in clean, cold water. DO NOT

STARCH OR BLEACH. Dry in tumble dryer at temperature not exceeding 130°F/54°C as degradation of the component materials will result. Avoid over drying. To drip dry, place on a rust proof hanger. DO NOT PRESS.

b. Field laundering. The garment shall be field laundered using formula II of FM 42-414, Appendix E. DO NOT STARCH OR BLEACH.

3.9 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for all seams, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The pattern list in Table V is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns will be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is possible. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.9.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Table V. The finished lengths of the slide fasteners for the various size-length jackets shall be as shown in TABLE VII, line items 5, 9, and 10.

TABLE V. Cutters must (list of pattern parts)

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

1 SST_RIGHT FRONT AND BACK YOKE SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

2 SST_LEFT FRONT AND BACK YOKE SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

3 SST_FRONT RIGHT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

4 SST_FRONT LEFT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

5 SST_FRONT SIDE SELF CUT 2

6 SST_BACK SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

7 SST_SLEEVE SELF CUT 2

8 SST_SLEEVE INSERT FRONT SELF CUT 2

9 SST_SLEEVE INSERT BACK SELF CUT 2

10 SST_ELBOW SELF CUT 4

11 SST_TOP COLLAR SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

12 SST_UNDER COLLAR SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

13 SST_CUFF SELF CUT 2

TABLE V. Cutters must (list of pattern parts) - Continued

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

14 SST_SLEEVE TAB SELF CUT 2

15 SST_SLEEVE POCKET SELF CUT 2

16 SST_SLEEVE POCKET FLAP SELF CUT 2

17 SST_HOOD SIDE SELF CUT 2

18 SST_HOOD CENTER SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

19 SST_HOOD FACING SELF CUT 2

20 SST_HOOD MID TUNNEL SELF CUT 2

21 SST_ARMPIT ZIP WELT SELF CUT 2

22 SST_TOP FLAP SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

23 SST_WIND FLAP SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

24 SST_POCKET ZIP FACING SELF CUT 2

25 SST_UNDER COLLAR FACING SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

26 SST_FRONT LINING CONTRAST CUT 2

27 SST_POCKET BAG CONTRAST CUT 2

28 SST_CUFF FUSE

FUSE or

Sewn-In CUT 2

29 SST_TOP FLAP FUSE

FUSE or

Sewn-In CUT 1 FACE UP

30 SST_WIND FLAP FUSE

FUSE or

Sewn-In CUT 1 FACE UP

31 SST_SLEEVE TAB FUSE

FUSE or

Sewn-In CUT 2

32 SST_SLV PKT FLAP FUSE

FUSE or

Sewn-In CUT 2

COMMENTS BELOW:

SELF = BASIC SHELL MATERIAL

CONTRAST = TRICOT KNIT MESH

FUSE or Sewn-In = Interfacing. (may be sewn or fusible)

3.10 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitches, seams, and stitching shall conform to ASTM

D 6193. Unless otherwise specified, primary seams use either SSa-1 with 504, 505 or other three

(3) or four (4) thread over-edge or SSa-2 with 516 safety stitch. All primary seams shall be topstitched using 301 lockstitch at 9-12 stitches per inch (SPI) for finished seam type LSq-2.

Pocket pouch assembly requires safety stitch. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. Loop fastener tape shall be stitched on the loop pile and not on the selvage. Bartacks shall be added for reinforcement (see figures 1, 2, 3 and patterns for details) in the locations, length and quantities listed in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Bartack locations, lengths and quantity per garment

Bartack Location Bartack Length, Inch

Stitches

1/

Quantity per

Garment

Collar 1/2 30 stitches 2

Sleeve Pocket 1/2 30 stitches 4

Sleeve Pocket Flap 1/2 30 stitches 4

Front Pocket Ends 1/2 30 stitches 4

Pit Zipper Ends 1/2 30 stitches 4

Zipper Pulls 3/8 22 stitches 5

1/ (± 2) stitches for the number of stitches

3.10.1 Primary seams. I.e., side quadrant seams, under arm seams, vertical center back seam, horizontal hideaway collar/hood seams shall be seam type Lsq-2 with 301 lock topstitch at 9-12 stitches per inch (SPI). Arm sleeve seams, back shoulder horizontal seam, front horizontal upper chest seams and center hood seams shall be Lsq-3 with double topstitch at 9-12 stitches per inch.

3.10.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.2 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.10.1.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch unless otherwise specified.

3.10.2 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than 1/2-inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.11 Finished measurements. The Jacket finished measurements shall be in accordance with

Table VII when evaluated as specified in Table VII and 4.6.16.

TABLE VII. Jacket finished measurements (measurements in inches)

LENGTH - REGULAR SIZES

TOL +/-

(inches)

Area

Ref

# Location XS S M L XL 2XL

1 ACROSS CHEST 1/ 24 26 28 30 32 34

-1/4, +1/2

2 BACK LENGTH 2/ 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31 ± 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH

FROM CB 3/ 34-1/2 35-1/4 36 36-3/4 37-1/2 38-1/4 ± 1/2

CUFF OPENING -

FINISHED 4/ 10 10-1/2 11 11-1/2 12 12-1/2 ± 1/4

5 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 5/ 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31 ± 1/2

COLLAR SPREAD

WITH ZIPPER 6/ 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 24-1/2 25-1/2 26-1/2 ± 1/4

7 COLLAR WIDTH AT CF 4 4 4 4 4 4 ± 1/4

CUT ELASTIC CUFF

MEASUREMENT 3 3-1/2 4 4-1/2 5 5-1/2 ± 1/4

FRT POCKET ZIPPER

LENGTH 7/ 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 9-1/2 ± 1/4

ARMPIT ZIPPER

LENGTH 8/ 7 7 7 7 7 7 ± 1/4

11 HOOD DEPTH 9/ 10-1/2 11 11-1/2 12 12-1/2 13 ± 1/2

HOOD HEIGHT AT

OPENING 10/ 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-3/4 17 17-1/4 ± 1/2

HEM CORD CUT

LENGTH 46 50 54 58 62 66 ± 1/2

FRT HOOD OPENING

CORD 37 37-1/2 38 38-1/2 39 39-1/2 ± 1/2

MIDDLE HOOD

TUNNEL CORD 21 22 23 24 25 26 ± 1/2

SHORT XS S

2 BACK LENGTH 2/ 27-1/2 28 ± 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH

FROM CB 3/ 33 33-3/4 ± 1/2

5 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 5/ 27-1/2 28 ± 1/2

LENGTH LONG S M L XL 2XL

2 BACK LENGTH 2/ 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31 31-1/2 32 ± 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH

FROM CB 3/ 36 36-3/4 37-1/2 38-1/4 39 39-3/4 ± 1/2

5 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 5/ 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31 31-1/2 32 ± 1/2

TABLE VII. Jacket finished measurements (measurements in inches) – Continued

3.12 Toxicity. The finished soft shell jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.14. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

Area

Ref # Location

SIZES

TOL

(inches)

XLONG XL 2XL

2 BACK LENGTH 2/ 32-1/2 33 ± 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH

FROM CB 3/ 40-1/2

41-

1/4 ± 1/2

5 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 5/ 32 1/2 33 ± 1/2

* total measurement (TM), center front (CF), center back (CB)

1/ Across chest measurement is taken from folded edge to fold edge at bottom of armhole/armscye.

2/ Back length measurement is taken from bottom of center back neck straight to hem.

3/ Sleeve length is taken from CB Neck Point to shoulder point then along the outer flattened folded edge of sleeve straight to bottom of hem.

4/ Cuff opening is taken from folded edge to folded edge at sleeve hem flat and relaxed.

5/ CF zipper length shall start and end at the outer edges of both zipper stops.

6/ Collar spread measurement is taken flat from edge to edge including zipper.

7/ Front pocket zipper measurements shall start and end at the outer edges of both zipper stops.

8/ Armpit zipper measurements shall start and end at the outer edges of both zipper stops.

9/ Hood depth is measured with hood folded in half and flat from the back of the hood to the front straight at widest point.

10/Hood height is measured with hood folded flat at front opening from base of hood to top of hood.

Measurements for locations: 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, & 15 are for construction purposes only

SEAM ALLOWANCE:

1/2-inch (all seams except for the following):

3/8-inch (CF, collar construction, neckline, front pocket zipper and front of hood)

1-inch (body hem)

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1 and 6.3), it shall be examined for the defects specified in Table IX and tested as specified in 4.4, 4.5 and 4.6.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4,

4.5 and 4.6. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQL) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 Basic material and component testing. The basic material and components specified in

3.5 through 3.6.14 shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Tables I, II, III, III.A, III.B, IV and IV.A in accordance with the test methods cited in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Basic material testing

Characteristic Reference Paragraph Test method

Basic shell materials (3.5.1) (Type I and Type II)

Fiber identification, 3.5.1.1 and 3.5.1.2 AATCC-20 or ASTM D 276 1/

Weave 3.5.1.1 and 3.5.1.2 Visual

Fabric count 3.5.1.1 ASTM D 3775

Weight 3.5.1.3 and Table I ASTM D 3776 (Method C) Breaking strength 3.5.1.3 and Table I ASTM D 5034 (G-E or G-T) Elongation (Type I only) 3.5.1.3 and Table I ASTM D 5034 (G-E or G-T)

Tearing…