PD 09-06.pdf

NCTRF PD 09-06A

16 June 2006

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. The following information is being provided as requirements for the man’s blue 75% polyester/25% wool tropical trouser.

1.2 Classification. The trousers are available in the following body types, sizes and lengths (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Garment Classification. The trousers shall be of the following types:

Type I – Athletic Type II - Classic

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes. The trousers shall be constructed in the following sizes and lengths.

Sizes – 26 through 50,sizes increase in one-inch increments through size 46, then 48 &

Lengths – Short, Regular, and Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

NCTRF PD 09-06

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-52108 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic, or Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 04-06 - Cloth, Tropical: Polyester and Wool

- Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of this document is available at Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia PA 19111 or the procuring activity, see 6.4.)

2.4 Non-government publications.

The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 117 Colofastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC Test Method 124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings AATCC Test Method 132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning Perchloroethylene-http://assist.daps.dla.mil/

Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org/ or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1388 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D2724 - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated

Apparel Fabrics ASTM D3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.5 Order of precedence.

In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article.

When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The trousers shall contains the following design elements:

- Sewn on waistband with hook and eye closure

- Rubberized non-slip waistband lining

- Grown on french fly

- Straight leg design

- Slide fastener (brass)

- Straight side pockets

- Double welt hip pockets and left pocket with buttonhole tab and button

- Outlet seam at seat seam and inseam

- Crotch lining http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www/asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

- Permanent creases on front and back legs

- Double needle seat seam

- Inseam outlet

- 7 Belt loops (8 on waist size 38 and up)

- Unhemmed

3.2.1 Design details.

3.2.1.1 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be positioned so the edge of the chain shall be ½ to 5/8 inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately ¼ to 3/8 inch at bottom. The end of the scoops shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the fly notch when fasteners are cut and scoops removed.

The top of the slide fastener stop shall be no more than ¼ inch below the finished waistband.

The bottom stop shall be at a maximum of 3/8 inch above fly notch.

3.2.1.2 Hip pockets (double welt). The welts shall measure 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide. The pocket opening shall be edgestitched on top and bottom. The ends of the pockets shall be bartacked with a vertical bartack perpendicular to the opening. The finished appearance of the back hip pockets shall be uniform in width and depth. The pockets shall be in alignment with each other and shall finish 5-1/4 (+ 1/8) inches wide and 6 (+ 1/4) inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings.

3.2.1.3 Buttonhole tab and button. The left hip pocket shall have a 1½ inch long buttonhole tab.

The buttonhole tab shall be made from 5/16 to 3/8 inch stripping. The stripping shall be folded in half and abut the side edges forming a point. The tab shall have a 3/8 inch bartack shall be centered across the abutted edges at the pointed end catching the base of the triangle. The tab shall have a 3/8 inch second bartack shall be centered across the abutted edges 5/8 inch from the first tack, forming a slit buttonhole. The buttonhole tab shall be centered on the left hip pocket.

A button shall be sewn on the left hip pocket through the pocket to correspond to the buttonhole tab.

3.2.1.4 Darts. The trousers shall have two back waist darts as indicated on patterns. Stitch and fold darts towards center back.

3.2.1.5 Side pockets. The side pockets openings shall be aligned with each other, uniform in length, and shall measure 5-3/4 to 6-1/2 inches between bartacks. There shall be a row of topstitching between bartacks. There shall be no notching of the pocket underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance. The ends of the pockets shall be bartacked perpendicular to the opening and across the outseam. The pocket openings shall not be distorted.

3.2.1.6 Waistband. The finished waistband shall measure 1 ½ (± 1/8) inches wide and shall be edgestitched from end to end on top and bottom of waistband. When attaching the waistband, a differential feed machine shall be used for easing the body panels onto the waistband evenly.

This cannot be achieved by flat sewing the waistband onto the trousers.

3.2.1.7 Belt loops. The finished belt loops shall measure 5/16 to 3/8 inch wide, and have a 1-3/4 (+ 1/8) inch opening and shall be stitched into the waistband joining seam. The belt loops shall be edgestitched along each edge. The belt loops shall be folded under and positioned even with the top of the waistband and bartacked through all plies except for center back belt loop. There shall be seven belt loops for sizes up to and including 37 and eight belt loops for sizes 38 and up.

The loops shall be positioned as follows:

a. One on each front centered between outseam and front closure.

b. One adjacent to each side seam on back of trouser.

c. One centered between each outseam and seat seam.

d. One at seat seam (center back), attached after waistband attachment.

e. The extra loop for larger sizes shall be on the right front, 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from right fly joining seam.

3.2.1.8 Waistband linings. The waistband lining shall measure 2 (+ 1/8) inches wide in the finished trousers. The waistband linings may be pieced providing the seam is flat and there is no more than one piecing on each trouser. The waistband stabilizer shall be 1 inch shorter than the waistband lining at seat seam.

3.2.1.9 Non-slip waistband tape. The rubberized non-slip waistband tape shall be centered on the waistband and continue from folded edge of left fly to folded edge of right fly. The rows of rubber gripper threads shall face the wearer.

3.2.1.10 Hook and eye. The hook portion shall be positioned on the inside center of the left waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. The eye portion shall be positioned on the inside center of the right waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops, to correspond with the hook portion. The waistband shall have a reinforcement piece at the end of the waistband for the hook and eye attachment. When the hook and eye are engaged on the finished trouser, the waistband closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist, or be distorted.

3.2.1.11 Front fly. The front fly shall have “J” stitching shall be 1-3/8 (+ 1/8) inches from front edge of fly, extending from top of waistband, and curving to fly notch. The top corners of the right and left flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from edge of fly. The seam joining the left fly to the front shall not be visible on the outside of trousers, when closed. The right fly lining shall not be visible on outside. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers or excessive fullness. The trousers shall be bartacked at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly, superimposed on the end of the “J” stitching. The trousers shall be bartacked on the inside of the trousers through the left and right fly assembly. The bartack shall be positioned to relieve the tension placed upon the bottom stop, approximately ¾ inch from the base of the fly bartack at a 45º angle from the horizontal.

3.2.1.12 Seat seam. The seat seam shall be joined with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The seam from the waistband-joining seam to the top end of the waistband shall be perpendicular (90º angle) to the waistband-joining seam. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 3/8 inches at crotch.

3.2.1.13 Permanent creases. The trousers shall be pressed in accordance with 3.5.1. Each trouser shall have a single continuous 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the inside the pre-pressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the top of the crotch to within 2 inches of the open (unfinished) trouser bottom. The top end of the creases shall not be more than 1 inch higher or 2 inches lower than the junction of the inseams at crotch. The creases shall start at the same point on both the front and back of each leg. The length of the creases shall not vary by more than 1-1/2 inches.

There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the crease at the front and back parts of the legs.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic Material. The basic material shall be a tropical, polyester and wool blend, 10.0 (± 0.5) ounces per linear yard, shade Blue 3346 conforming to NCTRF PD 04-06, Class 1.

3.3.2 Pocketing. The pocketing used for the right fly lining, waistband lining, crotch lining, side pocket stays and pocketing shall be twill cloth conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106, except it shall contain a minimum of 35% cotton. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

The color for all pocketing shall be consistent throughout the trousers.

3.3.3 Fusible interlining. The left fly interlining shall be a quality nonwoven fusible interlining.

Any fused part shall retain its original appearance/properties for the life of the garment. The fusible shall not be visible through the fabric. The fusible shall be a black, nonwoven, polyester/nylon web with a minimum of 50 percent polyester, which has been thermally bonded with a resin applied to the substrate. The weight of the fusible cloth including the adhesive shall be 1.7 to 2.4 ounces per square yard cloth and its breaking strength shall be a minimum breaking strength of 3.0 pounds in the machine direction and 2.0 pounds in the cross machine direction.

3.3.3.1 Fused components. A fused sample consisting of the fusible and the basic material shall meet the requirements specified under Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII.

Table I - Component fusing requirements

Characteristic Requirement Stiffness Initial Machine: 13.0 to 38.0 cm

Cross Machine: 6.0 to 22 cm After 25 launderings Machine: 10.4 to 30.4 cm

Cross Machine: 4.8 to 17.6 cm Peel Strength Initial 20 oz (min.)

After 25 launderings 16 oz (min.)

Appearance Initial No bubbling, delamination, change, bleed through, or detrimental affect in the shade of the basic material After 25 launderings DP 4.0 rating and no bubbling, delamination, change, bleed through, or detrimental affect in the shade of the basic material

3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to Type II of A-A-50186.

3.3.5 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to Type I of A-A-52108. The color for waistband stabilizer shall be a good match to the basic material and be consistent throughout the trousers.

3.3.6 Non-slip waistband tape. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink or elongate more than 2% for drycleaning or 3.5% for laundering when tested as specified in Table IX. There shall be a minimum of 3/16 inch from the rubber thread to the edge of the tape.

3.3.7 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester core, ticket no. 50 or 70, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. The color of the thread shall be Black AA, Cable No. 66043. The color of the thread shall conform to the DOD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads.

3.3.8 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be in accordance with Type I, Style 1 or 2, cam or semi-automatic locking, size 2, short tab pull of A-A-55634. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same contractor. Style 1 and 2 require the application of a slider and bottom stop during the production of the trousers. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be Black.

3.3.9 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband closure shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49E50); or YKK (Elite #3, #7, and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); or Akim Co. (Junior

Series – type JB, Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak); or Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D4457, D4228) or equal (see 6.5). The finish of both hook and eye shall be nickel plate.

3.3.10 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, Black 400, and shall be 22-ligne melamine, Type II, Class D, Style 4 of V-B-871.

3.3.11 Permanent creases. The permanent creases in the trousers shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, cracking, staining or strike back onto the face of the material, or increased stiffness when tested for resistance to dry heat and perchloroethylene solvent when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.1. The trouser samples shall have a minimum rating of “good”.

3.3.12 Labels.

3.3.12.1 Combination label. Each trouser shall have a combination identification, instruction, and personal label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be centered on the right hip pocketing. The label shall face the wearer on the finished trousers. The label shall be sewn on top, both sides and along the bottom. Stitching shall not go through the inscription. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment.

The label shall contain the following information:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

TROUSER, MAN’S, SERVICE, TYPE I, ATHLETIC FIT (EXAMPLE)

75% POLYESTER/25% WOOL

SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (IF DIFFERENT THAN CONTRACTOR):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

MACHINE WASH, WARM WATER (120°F MAX), PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

DO NOT MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT- REMOVE IMMEDIATELY

TOUCH UP WITH WARM IRON, IF NEEDED

MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED

or

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA III

3.3.12.2 Size label. Each trouser shall have a size label sewn into the lower edge of the inside of the waistband above the right hip pocket conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075.

The label shall indicate size, body type and stock number as shown below. Abbreviations shall not be used for the body types for Classic and Athletic fits and shall be completely spelled out on all size labels. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment.

SIZE CODE: 34R

Athletic (EXAMPLE)

STOCK NO: 8415-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

3.3.12.3 Removable size and Universal Product Code (UPC) ticket. Each trouser shall have a removable size and UPC ticket folded over the outside of the waistband centered between the 2nd and 3rd belt loops on the left side. The ticket shall be 3 inches wide and 3-3/8 inches long before folded. The ticket shall be folded over the top of the waistband. The face of the ticket shall measure 3 inches wide by 2 ½ long, the top of the fold shall measure 3 inches by 1/8 inch and the back of the ticket shall measure 3 inches by 1 ¼ inch, made of a suitable plain white cardboard.

The ticket shall be printed or stamped in blue or black ink and shall include information on size including body types and lengths, as stated on the size label above. The lettering for the size on the front shall be 1/4 inch and the lettering for fold over shall be 1/8 inch. There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for UPC shall be a medium to high density.

3.3.13 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. Government patterns provide 3/8 inch seam allowance for all seams, except 1/4 inch for attachment of left fly lining and closing pockets. Seat seam allowance shall be 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches at top of waistband tapering to 3/8 inch at notch. The back part of the inseam has an additional ¾ inch added for a total 1-1/8 inch at top to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of back part.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified in Table II. No pattern pieces provided for waistband stabilizer and buckram.

Table II – List of Pattern Parts

Pattern Name Piece Name Cut# Sizes Fabric FRONT Front 2 ALL Basic Material BACK Back 2 ALL Basic Material RIGHTFLY Right fly 1 ALL Basic Material LEFTFLY Left fly 1 ALL Basic Material RGHT-WB Right waistband 1 ALL Basic Material LEFT-WB Left waistband 1 ALL Basic Material SPKTBEARER Side pocket bearer 2 ALL Basic Material SPKTFACING Side pocket facing 2 ALL Basic Material HPKTBEARER Hip pocket bearer 2 ALL Basic Material HIPPKTCORD Hip pocket welt 2 ALL Basic Material LFLYINTER Left fly interlining 1 ALL Interlining S-PKT-STAY Side pocket stay 2 ALL Pocketing HIP-POCKET Hip pocket 2 ALL Pocketing SIDEPOCKET Side pocket 2 ALL Pocketing FLYLINING Fly lining 1 ALL Pocketing CRTCHLNG-A Crotch lining-A 2 SIZES 26 to 35 Pocketing CRTCHLNG-B Crotch lining-B 2 SIZES 36 to 40 Pocketing CRTCHLNG-C Crotch lining-C 2 SIZES 41 to 46 Pocketing

3.4.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. All stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trousers. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a maximum of 1/8 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the trousers.

The bottom of the trousers shall be overedged or pinked. Inseam and outseams shall be busted and overedged. Topstitching shall be 1/4 inch and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from edge. .

The 301 stitch type edgestitching and topstitching shall be 12-14 stitches per inch. All other 301 or 401stitch types shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching, the stitches per inch shall have 8-12 stitches per inch. All bartacks shall be 3/8 inch. The bartacks shall have 42-46 stitches per bartack.

3.4.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The seat seam cannot be repaired, but must be completely resewn.

3.5 Pressing. The trousers shall be fully pressed and the legs creased with the inseams and outseams matching at the bottoms and knees. The crotch and seat seam shall be pressed open.

3.6 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the trousers shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the item and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.7 Sizes and measurements. The finished measurements shall be as follows: (all measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches)

Table III - Table of Finished Measurements for Type I (Athletic Fit Trousers)

Inseam (F) Outseam (G)

Size Waist Hip Thigh Knee Bottom Short Reg Long Short Reg Long

(A) (B) (C) (D) (E) 26A 26 ½ 36 ¾ 23 7/8 19 ¼ 18 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ¼ 46 ¾ 49 ¼ 27A 27 ½ 37 5/8 24 ½ 19 ½ 18 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 3/8 46 7/8 49 3/8 28A 28 ½ 38 ½ 25 1/8 19 ¾ 18 ¼ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ½ 47 49 ½ 29A 29 ½ 39 3/8 25 ¾ 20 18 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 5/8 47 1/8 49 5/8 30A 30 ½ 40 ¼ 26 3/8 20 ¼ 18 ½ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ¾ 47 ¼ 49 ¾ 31A 31 ½ 41 1/8 27 20 5/8 18 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 7/8 47 3/8 49 7/8 32A 32 ½ 42 27 5/8 21 18 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 47 ½ 50 33A 33 ½ 42 7/8 28 ¼ 21 ¼ 18 7/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 1/8 47 5/8 50 1/8 34A 34 ½ 43 ¾ 28 7/8 21 ½ 19 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ¼ 47 ¾ 50 ¼ 35A 35 ½ 44 5/8 29 ½ 21 ¾ 19 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 3/8 47 7/8 50 3/8 36A 36 ½ 45 ½ 30 1/8 22 1/8 19 ¼ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ½ 48 50 ½ 37A 37 ½ 46 3/8 30 ¾ 22 3/8 19 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 5/8 48 1/8 50 5/8 38A 38 ½ 47 ¼ 31 3/8 22 5/8 19 ½ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ¾ 48 ¼ 50 ¾ 39A 39 ½ 48 1/8 32 22 7/8 19 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 7/8 48 3/8 50 7/8 40A 40 ½ 49 32 5/8 23 ¼ 19 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 48 ½ 51 41A 41 ½ 49 7/8 33 ¼ 23 ½ 19 7/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 1/8 48 5/8 51 1/8 42A 42 ½ 50 ¾ 33 7/8 23 ¾ 20 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 ¼ 48 ¾ 51 ¼ 43A 43 ½ 51 5/8 34 ½ 24 20 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 3/8 48 7/8 51 3/8 44A 44 ½ 52 ½ 35 1/8 24 ¼ 20 ¼ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 ½ 49 51 ½ 45A 45 ½ 53 3/8 35 ¾ 24 ½ 20 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 5/8 49 1/8 51 5/8 46A 46 ½ 54 ¼ 36 3/8 24 ¾ 20 ½ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 ¾ 49 ¼ 51 ¾ 48A 48 ½ 56 37 5/8 25 ¼ 20 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 50 49 ½ 52 50A 50 ½ 58 ¾ 38 7/8 25 ¾ 21 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 50 ¼ 49 ¾ 52 ¼

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

Table IV - Table of Finished Measurements for Type II (Classic Fit Trousers)

Inseam (F) Outseam (G) Size Waist Hip Thigh Knee Bottom Short Reg Long Short Reg Long

(A) (B) (C) (D) (E) 26C 26 ½ 37 ½ 23 ½ 18 ½ 17 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 43 7/8 46 3/8 48 7/8 27C 27 ½ 38 ¼ 24 18 ¾ 17 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 46 ½ 49 28C 28 ½ 39 24 ½ 19 1/8 17 7/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 1/8 46 5/8 49 1/8 29C 29 ½ 39 ¾ 25 19 3/8 18 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ¼ 46 ¾ 49 ¼ 30C 30 ½ 40 ½ 25 ½ 19 ¾ 18 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 3/8 46 7/8 49 3/8 31C 31 ½ 41 ¼ 26 20 18 ¼ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ½ 47 49 ½ 32C 32 ½ 42 26 ½ 20 ¼ 18 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 5/8 47 1/8 49 5/8 33C 33 ½ 42 ¾ 27 20 ½ 18 ½ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 ¾ 47 ¼ 49 ¾ 34C 34 ½ 43 ½ 27 ½ 20 ¾ 18 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 44 7/8 47 3/8 49 7/8 35C 35 ½ 44 ¼ 28 21 18 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 47 ½ 50 36C 36 ½ 45 28 ½ 21 3/8 18 7/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 1/8 47 5/8 50 1/8 37C 37 ½ 45 ¾ 29 21 5/8 19 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ¼ 47 ¾ 50 ¼ 38C 38 ½ 46 ½ 29 ½ 22 19 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 3/8 47 7/8 50 3/8 39C 39 ½ 47 ¼ 30 22 ¼ 19 ¼ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ½ 48 50 ½ 40C 40 ½ 48 30 ½ 22 ½ 19 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 5/8 48 1/8 50 5/8 41C 41 ½ 48 ¾ 31 22 ¾ 19 ½ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 ¾ 48 ¼ 50 ¾ 42C 42 ½ 49 ½ 31 ½ 23 1/8 19 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 45 7/8 48 3/8 50 7/8 43C 43 ½ 50 ¼ 32 23 3/8 19 ¾ 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 48 ½ 51 44C 44 ½ 51 32 ½ 23 ¾ 19 7/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 1/8 48 5/8 51 1/8 45C 45 ½ 51 ¾ 33 24 20 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 ¼ 48 ¾ 51 ¼ 46C 46 ½ 52 ½ 33 ½ 24 ¼ 20 1/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 3/8 48 7/8 51 3/8 48C 48 ½ 54 34 ½ 24 ¾ 20 3/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 5/8 49 1/8 51 5/8 50C 50 ½ 55 ½ 35 ½ 25 ¼ 20 5/8 35 ½ 37 ½ 39 ½ 46 7/8 49 3/8 51 7/8 Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

A. Waist - With slide fastener closed and waistband hooked, twice the measurement taken along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

B. Hip - With slide fastener closed twice the measurement taken across trousers, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

C. Thigh - Twice the measurement taken from the folded edge at the top of the inseam to the outer folded edge.

D. Knee - Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge. The location of knee measurements shall be from the bottom of trousers:

Short = 21 - 21-1/2 Regular = 22 - 22-1/2 Long = 23 - 23-1/2

E. Leg Bottom - Twice the measurement taken along bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge.

F. Inseam - The length of the inseam from bottom edge to the seat (crotch seam).

G. Outseam - The length of the outseam from bottom edge to the bottom of the waistband joining seam.

3.8 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function and those specified in MIL-STD-1488 for dress trousers and Table X.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall consist of the examinations and tested specified in Table V. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the requirements in Table V are not met.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample unit shall be one trouser and the lot shall be expressed in units of trousers.

Table V - First article inspection

Inspection

Requirement Paragraph

Verification

Materials and components examinations 3.3.1, 3.3.2, 3.3.3, 3.3.4, 3.3.5, 3.3.6, 3.3.7, 3.3.8, 3.3.9, 3.3.10, 3.3.11, 3.3.12, 3.3.13, 3.4.2, 3.5

Table VII, Table IX

In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations Fused components

3.2, 3.7, 3.8 3.3.3

4.4.4, 4.4.5, 4.4.6 4.4.2

End item inspections:

Visual examination Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.8 3.7

4.4.5 4.4.6

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table VI. The presence of any nonconformance to Table VI shall be cause to reject any production lot.

Table VI - Conformance inspection

Inspection Requirement

Paragraph

Verification In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations Fused component

3.2, 3.7, 3.8 3.3.3

4.4.4, 4.4.5, 4.4.6 4.4.2

End item inspection:

Visual examination Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.8 3.7

4.4.5 4.4.6

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one slack and the lot shall be expressed in units of trousers.

4.4 Methods of inspection.

4.4.1 Material and component verification. Materials and components shall be verified (see 4.2) in accordance with the requirements of Table VII.

Table VII - Material and component verification

Component Requirement paragraph Verification 1/ Basic material 3.3.1 NCTRF PD 04-06 Pocketing 3.3.2 A-A-52106 Interlining 3.3.3 4.4.2 Buckram 3.3.4 A-A-50186 Waistband Stabilizer 3.3.5 A-A-52108 Non-slip waistband 3.3.6 4.4.3 Thread 3.3.7 A-A-50199 Slide Fastener 3.3.8 A-A-55634 Hook and eye 3.3.9 2/ Buttons 3.3.10 V-B-871 Permanent Creases 3.3.11 4.4.1.1 Labels 3.3.12 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ The material or component shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements in its respective document.

2/ Certificate of compliance accepted.

4.4.1.1 Permanent crease testing. Trouser lots shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.4.1.1.1 and 4.4.1.1.2 prior to the presentation of each lot. The sample unit for each specified test shall be one trouser selected at random from the end item lot. The test specimens shall be cut for testing from each trouser. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure.

4.4.1.1.1 Permanent crease resistance tests. Permanent creases shall be tested for resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 117 at a minimum of 400 degree F and perchloroethylene solvent (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 132.

4.4.1.1.2 Permanency of crease test. The permanent crease test specimen shall be soaked for 30minutes in water containing a minimum amount of suitable wetting agent to thoroughly wet out the cloth. The temperature of the water shall be 165 + 5 degrees F. The wet out specimen shall be removed without squeezing and shall be air dried or dried at a temperature not exceeding 180 degrees F, while laying flat on an absorbent surface such as paper hand toweling or kitchen type tissue. The wet out and dried out specimen shall be compared with the untreated sample prepared in the same manner. The sharpness of the crease on the test specimen shall not be less than that of the untreated sample. Results shall be reported as “pass” or “fail”.

4.4.2 Fused component verification. Each fused sample selected for verification shall be verified in accordance with the requirements of Table VIII.

Table VIII - Fusible component verification testing

Characteristic Verification Weight ASTM D3776, Option C Fiber Content AATCC 20A Break Strength ASTM D5034 Stiffness Initial ASTM D1388, Option A After 25 launderings ASTM D1388, Option A, AATCC 124 1/ Peel strength 2/ Initial ASTM D2724 3/ After 25 launderings ASTM D2724 3/ Appearance 2/ Initial Visual After 25 launderings Visual, AATCC 124 1/ 4/

1/ One fused 15 x 15 inch sample per 1000 fused pieces shall be laundered. Wash temperature shall be 140 (± 5) degrees F, 60 (± 3) degrees C. Drying shall be performed only after the 25th washing. The evaluation portion of the AATCC test method shall not apply. Pressing of the sample prior to evaluation shall be prohibited.

2/ A fused sample shall be tested in accordance with Table VIII for peel strength and appearance at the beginning of a contract, anytime the press is down, after 1000 cut pieces have been fused, and at the end of the contract. The fused sample shall be a 15 X 15 inch swatch.

3/ The fused sample shall be accepted if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separate from the outer shell material or if it begins to separate from the outer shell material higher than the minimum peel strength and then splits from itself.

4/ Sample size shall be governed by AATCC 124. The samples shall be visually examined for conformance. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

4.4.2.1 Adhesion testing of fusible. Prior to fusing each 1,000 parts, a sample of equivalent area to a part shall be fused for visual and adhesion testing. The sample shall be allowed to cool completely before testing. After visual examination for bubbling, delamination, and bleed through, the sample shall be cut to a 1 inch width and peeled in the warp direction using a spring scale or suitable device capable of measuring the peel strength requirement specified in 3.3.3.1 or showing any bubbling, delamination, or bleed through shall be cause for rejection of the previous 1,000 fused parts. No fusing shall be performed after the rejection of a 1,000-part lot until the machine has been properly adjusted to produce a passing sample. The rejected lot shall then be replaced with a shade matched lot, which has been fused correctly. Rejection of the previously fused parts shall not apply to the first sample tested after machine warm up.

4.4.3 Non-slip Waistband Tape Shrinkage Testing.

Table IX – Non-slip Waistband Tape Shrinkage Testing

Characteristic Requirement Verification Dimensional stability Laundering 3.3.6 AATCC 135 Drycleaning 3.3.6 AATCC 158

4.4.4 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance with MIL-STD-1488 shall be removed from production.

4.4.5 Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for compliance to 3.2 and

3.7. The trousers shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, construction, and workmanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with MIL-STD-1488 for dress trousers and Table X.

Table X - Additional defects

Defect Point Value

a. All production and shade tickets shall be removed upon completion of the trousers.

b. Permanent Creases.

1. Omitted, not as specified or not in alignment, misaligned, crooked, silicone not in crease line, wavy, angled, or not positioned vertically straight.

Number of creases not as specified, creases do not create the appearance of a single continuous line, silicone crease not 1/16 inch (nominal).

2. Application of permanent creases:

(a)Any staining, strikethrough or bleedthrough onto face of basic fabric

(b) Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, cracking, missing silicone, voids, not uniform application, excessive silicone, cracking.

c. Barcode label.

1. Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible, not visible on folded, packaged item,

2. Causes damage to the item.

4.4.6 Dimensional examination. The finished trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.6 and in Tables III and IV. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit shall be one trouser.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended for wear by male Navy personnel as part of the Service Uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Body type, sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.4.1)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit DSCP’s Warfighter website, http://warfighter.dla.mil. Choose Vendor Info > Specification/Pattern Request. Complete the request form, and then submit form.

6.5 Hook and eye suggested source of supply. The suggested sources of supply for the waistband hook and eye are as follows:

North & Judd YKK Snap Fasteners, America 699 Middle Street P.O. Box 240 Middletown CT 06457 Lawrenceburg KY 40342

Akim Engineering Company Stimpson Fasteners 131 Ash Street 900 Sylvan Avenue Willimantic CT 06280 Bayport NY 11705

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Material, polyester/wool blend Pants Slacks Bottoms Tropical

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy-NU Navy - NU http://warfighter.dla.mil/

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

AATCC Test Method 20AFiber Analysis: Quantitative

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

Table I - Component fusing requirements

Pattern NamePiece Name Cut#Sizes Fabric

Table IV - Table of Finished Measurements for Type II (Classic Fit Trousers)

Fiber Content