Amend 00001 Attachment.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-19015B

6 March 2020

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-19015A

20 December 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S, DRESS, POLYESTER/WOOL

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for trousers intended to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The trousers will be one (1) type in the following sizes:

1.2.1 Sizes.

Schedule of sizes (waist - inches).

Waist

Size

Classic Fit Athletic Fit

Short Regular Long X-Long Short Regular Long X-Long

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Schedule of sizes (waist - inches). Continued

Classic Fit Athletic Fit

Short Regular Long X-Long Short Regular Long X-Long

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD-19008 - Cloth, Gabardine: Polyester and Wool

(Copies of this document is available through the contracting activity).

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to: Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in

Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

(Copies are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize

Principles and Methods of Toxicology , A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://crcpress.com.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 - Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.) (see

6.6)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trousers shall be a dress type and shall have a sewn-on waistband with hook and bar closure, a French fly tab with slide fastener, straight on side seam pockets, two welt back pockets and two (2) 3-inch long back darts. The left back pocket shall have a buttonhole tab and button closure. The trousers shall have seven (7) 1-3/4-inches long finished belt loops for all sizes. The inside of the waistband has a rubberized non-slip tape. The front legs shall have a center crease. The front leg crease shall be treated with a permanent silicone adhesive bead. The trousers shall be unhemmed (See Figures 1 through 4).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall conform to Class 1 of

GL-PD-19008. The color shall be Heritage Taupe 565, or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Lining and pocketing. The material for fly extension, crotch pieces, side pocket stays, side pockets and back pockets shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except there shall be a https://crcpress.com/ minimum of 35 percent cotton with the remainder polyester. The color for pocketing shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.3 Interlining. The material for interlining the fly, belt loops, back pocket welt and waistband (for premade curtain (see 3.4.4.1) only) shall be a fusible conforming to Type I or IV, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4 Waistband premade curtain. The premade waistband curtain shall have a 1/2-inch rubberized gripper attached to a top bias strip stabilized with buckram and a lower self-faced bias strip of pocketing material (see 3.4.2) stabilized with wigam. The finished width of curtain shall be 2 to 2-1/2-inches (see Figure 4). The color of the waistband curtain bias strips shall be a good match to the basic material. Rubberized gripper shall be chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the bias strip and shall meet the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.7.1. As an alternate, the manufacturer may construct a waistband curtain comprised of the components listed above.

TABLE I. Rubberized gripper requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Colorfastness:

Dry heat (3 exposures) at 400oF (max.)

3.0

Drycleaning (3 cycles) 3.0

Steam pressing (2 cycles) No visual degradation

Dimensional stability (warp and filling), percent (max.):

Laundering

Dry cleaning

2.0

2.0

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, nonreversible, with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 or 5 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material. The component parts of the slide fastener shall be a good match to the basic material or the color of the coil may be clear.

3.5.2 Hook and bar. The hook and bar for the waistband shall be Universal Fastener Inc., Elite

Brand # 8 hook with # 8 hook plate and # 85 bar with #85 bar plate, steel zinc plated components, or equal. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval.

3.5.3 Buttons. The buttons for the left back pocket and French fly closure shall conform to

Type I, Class 1, Style 4, 22 ligne, glossy finish of A-A-59994. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.4 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Type I or Type II, Tex 36-45, 2 or 3 ply conforming to A-A-50199, or equal.

The thread for overedge stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Type I or

Type II Tex 31-35, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199, or equal. The color of the thread shall be a

3.5.4.1 Automatic machine pocket thread. The thread for automatic machine pocket construction shall be Type II, Tex 50, 3-ply of A-A-52094. The color of the thread shall be a

3.5.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the French fly buttonhole shall be cotton, Tex size 210 conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198, or equal. The color for the gimp shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6 Labels. Each trouser shall have a combination identification and care instruction label, a size label and a bar code conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the combination label only. The font for the size label shall be

10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be positioned on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides. The label attachment stitching shall not affect the use of the pocket. The printed label shall be facing the body. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY

2. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

3. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth

4. PERMANENT CREASED - Press on same crease line with steam at 325(± 5)℉ or wool setting with steam

5. Roll press (without creasing)

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned above the right back pocket and the top edge of the size label shall be stitched to lower edge of waistband lining. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The size label shall include the waist size and length along with the letter “A” for athletic fit or letter “C” for classic fit to designate fit style. The size label shall include the National Stock Number (NSN).

For Classic fit trousers (Example): For Athletic fit trousers (Example):

34 R - C

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

36 L - A

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

3.6.3 Barcode label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each pair of trousers shall have a bar code label in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-

32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the Government.

The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the trousers when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the trousers.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each pair of trouser, produced for Army & Air Force Exchange

Services (AAFES) or commercial sales, shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9 (see 6.7). The certification label shall be positioned 1/2-inch below the combination label on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides, such that the stitching does not affect the ability to use the pocket. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, will be furnished by the Government. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automation, however, the design and finished measurements shall be maintained. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams, except a 1-1/2-inch outlet is provided at the seat seam through the waistband and a 3/4-inch outlet from the crotch to the knee at inseam for back panel only, is provided on the pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece

(dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

3.8.1 Pattern version. PD19_015 dated 13 March 2020.

3.8.2 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from materials specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Tables II and III.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts - Classic fit.

Materials Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

Front

Back

PD19_015C-FR

PD19_015C-BK

Fly PD19_015C-FLY 2

Side pocket bearer PD19_015C-SDPKT-BEAR 2

Side pocket facing PD19_015C-SDPKT-FAC 2

Belt loop PD19_015C-LOOP 1

Waistband PD19_015C-WB 2

Back pocket bearer PD19_015C-BKPKT-BR 2

Back pocket welt PD19_015C-BKPKT-WELT 2

Lining and pocketing

(see 3.4.2)

Fly extension lining PD19_015C-FLY-EXT-LIN 1

Side pocket bag PD19_015C-SDPKT-BAG 2

Crotch piece PD19_015C-CROTCH 2

Back pocket bag PD19_015C-BKPKT 2

Side pocket stay PD19_015C-SDPKT-STAY 2

Interlining (see

3.4.3)

Fly interlining

Loop interlining

Waistband interlining

Welt reinforcement

PD19_015C-FLY-INT

PD19_015C-LOOP-INT

PD19_015C-WB-INT

PD19_015C-BK-PKT-

REINFORCEMENT

Templates Back pocket placement

Template

PD19_015C-BK-PKT-TEMP

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Athletic fit.

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

Front

Back

PD19_015A-FR

PD19_015A-BK

Fly PD19_015A-FLY 2

Side pocket bearer PD19_015A-SDPKT-BEAR 2

Side pocket facing PD19_015A-SDPKT-FAC 2

Belt loop PD19_015A-LOOP 1

Waistband PD19_015A-WB 2

Back pocket bearer PD19_015A-BKPKT-BR 2

Back pocket welt PD19_015A-BKPKT-WELT 2

Lining and pocketing

(see 3.4.2)

Fly extension lining

Side pocket bag

Crotch piece

Back pocket bag

Side pocket stay

PD19_015A-FLT-EXT-LIN

PD19_015A-SDPKT-BAG

PD19_015A-CROTCH

PD19_015A-BKPKT

PD19_015A-SDPKT-STAY

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Athletic fit. - Continued

Interlining (see

3.4.3)

Fly interlining

Loop interlining

Waistband interlining

Welt reinforcement

PD19_015A-FLY INT

PD19_015A-LOOP-INT

PD19_015A-WB-INT

PD19_015A-BK-PKT-

REINFORCEMENT

Templates Back pocket placement template

PD19_015A-BK-PKT-TEMP

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitching, seams and stitching shall conform to

ASTM D6193. All seams shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. All exposed front facing edges, seat seam, inseams and outseams shall be covered with stitch type 502 or 503. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur.

All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabrics. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 to 1/4-inch.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2-inch.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2-inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/ 2/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

2/ No more than three (3) thread breaks per seam length is permitted.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4-inch maximum length.

3.10.1.5 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except on labels) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 seaming may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

3.10.1.6 Bartacking. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2-inch long, unless otherwise specified.

Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose or tight stitching. Bartacking shall be correctly placed to reinforce points of strain as follows: Bartacks at side pocket openings shall extend beyond the outseams 1/16 to 1/8-inch; bartack at top of belt loop shall be 1/8-inch from top edge of waistband; bartack all pockets at ends of pocket openings - the bartacks shall be perpendicular to the openings; bartack at base of fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly.

The bartack may be diagonal, in line with the fly stitching or may be horizontal and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam. The inside edges of the right and left flies shall be bartacked together.

3.10.1.7 Buttonhole. The buttonhole for French fly shall be the eyelet-end taper bar type, worked over gimp with not less than four (4) stitches at bar end (not counting the crossover stitch). The buttonhole shall finish with the purling toward the button when button is engaged.

The finished cut lengths shall be 5/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/4-inch of the tack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

3.10.2 Marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the trousers. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.10.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required appearance, size, dimensions and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.4 Manufacturing requirements. The trousers shall be cut and assembled in accordance with the patterns. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

3.10.5 Seat seams. Seat seams shall be two single needle superimposed chain stitch (401).

Press crotch and seat seam open. Inseams shall meet within ± 1/8-inch when seat seam is finished.

3.10.6 Waistband. The finished width of the waistband shall be 1-1/2-inches. The waistband shall be stitched below the waistband attachment seam and stitching below the waistband shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers.

3.10.7 Waistband curtain. The waistband curtain shall be attached to the waistband using a 304 zig zag stitch that goes through all inside layers and is offset 1/8 (± 1/16)-inch from the top waistband edge.

3.10.8 Fly. The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall be smooth and flat without twists, puckers, excessive fullness or distortion when slide fastener button, and hook and bar are closed. The joining seam on the left fly assembly shall be edge stitched 1/16-inch from seam. The turn back on fly facing shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The distance of the “J” stitch shall be 1-3/8 (+0, -1/8)-inches. The right fly shall have a 5/8-inch buttonhole.

3.10.9 Side seam pockets. The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The openings shall be aligned, uniform in length and shall measure 6-1/8 to 6-3/8-inches between tacks for all sizes. The pockets shall be edge stitched 1/16-inch from seam and then shall be topstitched 3/16 to 1/4-inch from edge (see Figure 2). Side pocket facing and bearer pieces shall be of the basic material. The left and right pocket openings shall not be out of alignment by more than 1/8-inch.

3.10.10 Back pockets. The back pockets shall be in alignment, uniform in width and depth and finish 5-3/4 to 6-1/4-inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5 (± 1/8)-inches for sizes 26 to 29 and 5-1/4 (± 1/8-inches long for sizes 30 and up. The welt shall finish 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide on each side and shall be even and uniform in width. The pockets opening shall be raise stitched. The ends of pocket openings shall be securely bartacked. The left back pocket shall have a buttonhole tab in accordance with 3.10.11 (see Figure 3).

3.10.10.1 Back pocket buttonhole tab. The left back pocket buttonhole tab shall be cut from a piece of basic material to form a strip that finishes 1-1/4 (± 1/8)-inches long and 5/16 to 3/8-inch wide. Fold the strip in half and abut the side edges forming a point. Bartack across the abutted edges at pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second bartack across the abutted edges, 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch from the first tack, forming a slit buttonhole. The buttonhole tab shall be centered on left back pocket.

3.10.12 Belt loops. The trousers shall have seven (7) belt loops for all sizes. The loops shall be positioned as indicated by notches on patterns and one (1) on the centerback seam. The bottom of the belt loop shall be attached in the waistband seam and extend onto the pant body

1/4-inch and bartacked at not more than 1/4-inch below waist seam. The belt loop shall be folded over so top edge of the belt loop is bartacked no less than 1/8-inch from top edge of waistband. The belt loop shall finish 1-3/4 (+ 1/8)-inches between bartacks on top of waistband and stitching into seam on the bottom of waistband (see Figure 4).

3.10.13 Buttons. The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with buttonhole tabs. One (1) button shall be sewn on the left waistband lining to correspond with French fly buttonhole and one (1) button shall be sewn on left back pocket through pocket and facing to correspond to buttonhole tab.

3.10.14 Hook and bar. Position and attach the hook vertically on the center (1/8-inch off tolerance) of the left waistband and with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach hook and bar portions through a suitable reinforcement. Position and attach the bar on the center of the right waistband, aligned with slide fastener scoops, to correspond to the hook on left waistband. When the hook and bar are engaged on the finished trousers, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist or pull and the hook shall fully engage the bar.

3.10.15 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be positioned with the edge of the chain 5/8-inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately 3/8-inch at bottom. The top of the slide fastener shall be no more than 1/4-inch below the finished waistband. The bottom stop shall be

1/8-inch above the fly notch, + 1/8-inch tolerance.

3.10.16. Back darts. Back darts shall be pressed flat towards center back seat seam. There shall be no visible puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart. The darts shall be positioned in accordance with marks on patterns. The lengths of all darts shall be uniform.

3.10.17 Permanent creases. The trousers shall have permanent silicone creases (see 6.5).

Each pair of trousers shall have a single continuous 1/16-inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the inside of the basic material in the center of each of the two (2) front prepressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the bottom of the crotch-level to within 2-inches of the unfinished trouser bottom. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the creases. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness. The permanent creases shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) at a maximum of 400°F; steam pressing (2 cycles); and drycleaning (3 cycles) when tested as specified in 4.7.1.

3.10.18 Finish pressing. Press legs with seams matching at bottoms and knees. Legs shall be pressed individually. Press top of trouser completely. Pressing shall be performed by the use of a heated pressing iron or machine. All pressing impressions and glossy areas shall be removed.

Inseams and outseams shall be pressed open.

3.10.19 Cleaning. All loose threads shall be removed. All thread ends shall be trimmed to

1/4-inch and all spots, stains and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The trousers shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table IV for Classic fit sizes and Table V for Athletic fit sizes.

TABLE IV Finished measurements (inches) - Classic fit.

1/

Hip

2/

Bottom

Hem 3/

Inseam 4/

Short Regular Long X-Long

26C 26-1/2 33 17 -- 36 -- --

28C 28-1/2 35 17-1/4 34 36 -- --

29C 29-1/2 36 17-3/8 34 36 38 --

30C 30-1/2 37 17-1/2 34 36 38 40

31C 31-1/2 38 17-5/8 34 36 38 --

32C 32-1/2 39 17-3/4 34 36 38 40

33C 33-1/2 40 17-7/8 34 36 38 40

34C 34-1/2 41 18 34 36 38 40

35C 35-1/2 42 18-1/8 34 36 38 --

36C 36-1/2 43 18-1/4 34 36 38 40

37C 37-1/2 44 18-3/8 34 36 38 --

38C 38-1/2 45 18-1/2 34 36 38 40

39C 39-1/2 46 18-5/8 34 36 38 --

40C 40-1/2 47 18-3/4 34 36 38 40

41C 41-1/2 48 18-7/8 34 36 38 --

42C 42-1/2 49 19 34 36 38 40

44C 44-1/2 51 19-1/4 -- 36 38 40

46C 46-1/2 53 19-1/2 -- 36 38 40

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

1/ Waist: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, 1-inch below fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

3/ Bottom hem: Measure along unhemmed bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge;

the measurement needs to be doubled to obtain the hem circumference measurement.

4/ Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

TABLE V Finished measurements (inches) - Athletic fit.

Hip

2/

Bottom

Hem 3/

Inseam 4/

1/ Short Regular Long X-Long

29A 29-1/2 38 17-3/8 -- 36 -- --

30A 30-1/2 39 17-1/2 -- 36 38 40

31A 31-1/2 40 17-5/8 -- 36 38 --

32A 32-1/2 41 17-3/4 -- 36 38 40

33A 33-1/2 42 17-7/8 34 36 38 40

34A 34-1/2 43 18 34 36 38 40

35A 35-1/2 44 18-1/8 34 36 38 --

36A 36-1/2 45 18-1/4 34 36 38 40

37A 37-1/2 46 18-3/8 34 36 38 --

38A 38-1/2 47 18-1/2 34 36 38 40

39A 39-1/2 48 18-5/8 34 36 38 --

40A 40-1/2 49 18-3/4 34 36 38 40

41A 41-1/2 50 18-7/8 34 36 38 --

42A 42-1/2 51 19 34 36 38 40

44A 44-1/2 53 19-1/4 -- 36 38 40

46A 46-1/2 55 19-1/2 -- 36 38 40

Tol ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

1/ Waist: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, 1-inch below fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

3/ Bottom hem: Measure along unhemmed bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge;

the measurement needs to be doubled to obtain the hem circumference measurement.

4/ Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.8. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, finished dimensions, color, and visual defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.7.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.5 and 4.6 and the testing in 4.7 and 4.8, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and in accordance with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or purchase order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable documents (see 6.2).

4.5 End item visual examination. The trousers shall be visually examined for the defects listed in MIL-STD-1488 and the defects listed in Table VI. The lot shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit is one (1) pair of trousers. The below additional defects for permanent creases shall be scored. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE VI. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Permanent creases One or both permanent creases omitted, silicone omitted

Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness

Silicone not applied evenly and equally, not a continuous bead of silicone

Any excess silicone on face of trouser not cleaned or fully removed

Silicone not applied to center of crease, silicone applied outside of crease

Silicone application extends beyond crease by more than 2 inches

Sharpness of crease varies

101a

102a

103a

201a

202a

203a

204a

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The finished trousers shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Tables IV and V. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one (1) pair of trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers.

4.7 Methods of inspection.

4.7.1 Material component testing. The permanent creases (see 3.10.17) and waistband materials (see 3.4.4) shall be tested for the colorfastness and dimensional stability properties as specified in Table VII. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width for the waistband components for all testing. The sample unit for the permanent silicone crease shall be three (3) samples of silicone creased basic material each 24-inches in length. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet the requirement specified.

TABLE VII. Material and component test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Colorfastness:

Dry Heat (3 exposures) at 400oF (max.)

Drycleaning (3 cycles)

Steam pressing (2 cycles)

3.4.4 and 3.9

AATCC 117 1/, 2/, 4/

AATCC 132 1/, 2/, 4/

3/, 4/

Dimensional stability, (warp and filling), percent (max.):

Laundering

Dry cleaning

3.4.4

3.4.4

AATCC 158

AATCC 158

1/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

2/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Samples shall be visually evaluated for evidence of flaking, decomposition, cracking, or increased stiffness.

4/ Steam pressing shall be conducted by wetting the material with water and steam press at a temperature of 240℉ to 250℉ for 1 minute and repeating one (1) more time and visually checking for degradation after each cycle.

4.8 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.9 Certification. When the trousers are purchased individually or in lots, by AAFES or a commercial supplier, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

"This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD-19015 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DOD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point's packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the

Military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing

Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended for wear by male personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.8).

f. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL)(see 4.3).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples. For access to samples and patterns drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Permanent creasing. A guide for the permanent creasing procedure is as follows: After pressing the trouser crease apply the silicone resin in a fine bead to the inside of only the front creases of the trouser. The bead should be applied evenly and equally from top of crotch to within 2-inches of the unfinished trouser bottom. The bead of resin after application should be

1/16-inch (nominal) in width and should follow the crease line exactly. Where resin misses the crease for any reason, it should be re-applied into the crease. No special drying or baking procedures are needed when using the silicone crease. The resin will quickly air-cure and no repressing after application is needed.

6.6 Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available for purchase from SDL Atlas. Contact

Customer Service 1-803-329-2110 (request item number is 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set.)

6.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the U.S. Army Uniform Quality Control

Program (UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat

Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue

Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.8 Summary of changes since last revision.

a. Pages 11, 3.10.8, update “J” stitch information.

b. Updated format and typographical errors throughout

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Athletic

Classic

Gabardine

FIGURE 1. Trousers, Men’s

FIGURE 2. Side pocket

A. Stitch facing and bearer to pocket

B. Stitch pocket to front

C. Turn pocket and top stitch

D & E. Seamed and turned

F. Tack pocket opening to bearer

G. Finished pocket

FIGURE 3. Back pocket

A. Bearer on pocket

B. Welt facing piece on outside of trousers

C. Cut through welt piece and notch

D. Welt piece turned inside

E. Make welt

F. Pocket pulled through and closed

G. Pocket pulled through to inside and top stitched on sides

H. Top pocket opening stitch through pocket and facing piece with buttonhole tab inserted

FIGURE 4. Belt loop and waistband curtain.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army – GL Army - GL