GL-PD-06-07_Parka_Extreme_CW_(28Dec07).pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD-06-07

28 December 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PARKA, EXTREME COLD WEATHER (GEN III)

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for an insulated loft jacket, manufactured from a water repellent nylon cloth and batting material to be used as a component of the Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (ECWCS), GEN III.

1.2 Classification. The loft jacket shall be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2).

Extra Small – Short Extra Small – Regular

Small – Short Small - Regular Small – Long

Medium - Regular Medium – Long

Large - Regular Large - Long

Extra Large - Regular Extra Large - Long Extra Large – Extra Long

Double Extra Large - Regular Double Extra Large – Long Double Extra Large – Extra Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form part of this document, to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zipper, (Fastener, Slide Interlocking) A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OD DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-STD-129 – Military Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-DTL-32072 – Thread, Polyester MIL-DTL-32075 – Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-T-3530 – Thread and Twine, Mildew Resistant or Water Repellent Treated

(Copies of these documents are available from the Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) database, online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Ave.

Philadelphia, PA 19111-9054).

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS (CFR)

16 CFR Part 1500 – Federal Hazardous Substances Act Regulations 29 CFR Part 1910 – Occupational Safety and Health Standards

(Copies of these documents are available online at: www.access.gpo/nara/cfr or from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, North capitol & “H” Streets, N.W., Washington, DC 20402-0002.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC-8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC-16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC-22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC-70 - Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption AATCC-96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool AATCC-132 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC-135 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool AATCC-150 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Garments

(Copies of these documents are available from www.aatcc.org or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM C-518 - Steady-State Thermal Transmission Properties by Means of the Heat Flow Meter Apparatus ASTM D-737 - Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D-747 - Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D-751 - Coated Fabrics ASTM D-1388 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D-1424 - Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type Apparatus ASTM D-1776 - Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D-3775 - Warp End Count and Filling Pick Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D-3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D-5034 - Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D-6193 - Practice of Stitches and Seams ASTM E-96 - Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

(Application for copies are available from www.astm.org or American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(For all inquiries, please contact the American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd St., 4th

Floor, New York, NY 10036). Website address is http://www.ansi.org)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/

NATIONAL AEROSPACE STANDARD (NASM)

NASM 16491 - Grommet, Metallic, General Specification for-FSC 5325 NASM 20652 - Eyelets, Metallic, and Eyelet Washers, Metallic-FSC 5325

(Application for copies are available from the Aerospace Industries Association, 1250 Eye Street NW, Washington, DC 20005.)

MISCELLANEOUS

Principle and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 394-396, 1989.

(Copies of this document is available from Raven Press, 1185 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036)

Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach, “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans,” Advances in Modern Toxicology, Volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977.

(Copies of this document are available from the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine, ATTN: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg., E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Ground, MD 21010-5422.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.3 Recycle, recovered, or environmental preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or Environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The jacket shall have a single-breasted front with a slide-fastener, left-hand separating, (double-slider closure which will permit the opening of the fastener from either the top or bottom), from the top of the collar to the bottom of the jacket hem. The jacket shall have a draw-cord closing hood, and a draw-cord bottom. The hood shall be capable of being rolled up, and secured in a pocket at the back of the neck, by a loop fastener. The jacket shall have two vertical opening, outer pockets with slide fasteners, and two inner mesh pockets. The jacket will be fabricated with an outer layer, an insulation layer, and finally, an inside layer of lightweight rip-stop material. The sleeves shall have an exterior layer of durable fabric running from the elbows to the cuffs, with adjustable hook and loop cuff fasteners. A windbreak flap shall be provided, which runs from the top of the neck opening to the bottom of the jacket hem, on the inside of the left section of the slide fastener. A piece of hook fastener tape shall be centered and sewn above the loop fastener of the upper chest area per pattern placement. The exterior surfaces of the jacket shall be Urban Gray 505 in color. See Figures 1-3.

3.5 Basic materials.

3.5.1 Standard sample: All cloth materials shall match the applicable standard sample for shade and appearance on the face side, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.5.1.1 Parka layer shell (outside material). The cloth shall be a plain weave, water resistant treated, nylon cloth (texture approximating 115 by 100 yarns per inch, warp and filling, respectively), meeting the requirements in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. The color of the cloth shall match Urban Gray 505.

3.5.1.2 Physical requirements. The cloth shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE I. Jacket Layer Shell (outside material), physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.) 3.3 Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp 100 Filling 100 Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp, Threshold 4.0 Filling, Threshold 4.0 Warp, Objective 6.0 Filling, Objective 6.0 Air Permeability, ft3/ft2/min. (max) 1.0 Moisture vapor transmission Rate, g/m2/24h (min.) - Initial, Procedure B, Threshold 600 Objective 1200 Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

At 70ºF, Objective 0.001 Threshold 0.002 At 32ºF, Objective 0.001 Threshold 0.002 Blocking, rating (max.) No. 2 Water permeability, cm (min) - Initial 30 Spray rating, (min.) - Initial 100, 100, 90

TABLE I. Jacket Layer Shell (outside material), physical requirements (Cont’d)

Spray rating, (min.) - After 5 launderings 100, 90, 90 Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail - Initial No wetting After 5 launderings No wetting Dynamic absorption, percent (max.):

Threshold 5.0 Objective 1.5 Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp 2.5 Filling 1.5 Color Urban Gray 505 Spectral Reflectance, % Table II Colorfastness to:

Laundering

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

Light Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

Crocking Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5

Toxicity 1/ 1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.1.3 Color.

3.5.1.3.1 Urban Gray 505. The color of the face side of the cloth shall be Urban Gray 505, and shall match the applicable standard sample.

3.5.1.4 Spectral reflectance. The spectral reflectance shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II, initially and after laundering, when tested as specified in 4.5. .

TABLE II. Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent)

Urban Gray 505 Wave length, Nanometers (nm) Min Max (Objective) Max (Threshold) 600 12 26 26 620 14 26 26 640 14 28 28 660 14 30 30 680 18 34 34 700 24 38 50 720 26 42 60 740 30 46 63 760 32 48 65

TABLE II. Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent) (Cont’d)

Urban Gray 505 Wave length, Nanometers (nm) Min Max (Objective) Max (Threshold) 780 34 48 65 800 34 50 65 820 36 54 65 840 38 54 65 860 40 56 65

3.5.2 Nylon, rip-stop cloth (lining cloth). The cloth for the inside of the jacket lining shall be a rip-stop weave nylon meeting the physical requirements in Table III when tested as specified in

4.5. The color of the cloth shall match Urban Gray 505.

TABLE III. Nylon, Rip-Stop Cloth (lining cloth) - Physical Requirements.

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.) 1.7 Fabric Count, yarns/inch (min.)

Warp 180 Filling 96 Break Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp 115 Filling 80 Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp 7.5 Filling 5.0 Air Permeability, ft3/ft2/min. 1.0 – 3.0 Color Urban Gray 505 Spectral Reflectance, % Table II Colorfastness to:

Laundering Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on

AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change Light Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on

AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change Crocking Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5

Toxicity 1/ 1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.3 Batting material, heavy weight. The batting material used for the body and sleeve insulation shall conform to the physical requirements in Table IV. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

TABLE IV. Batting Material (heavy weight) - Physical Requirements.

Weight, oz./sq.yd 6.0 +/- 0.6 Thickness @ 0.002 psi, in. (max.) 1.0 Intrinsic Clo @ 0.002 psi, (min.) 3.5 Drape stiffness, inches, (max.) 4.0 Water gain, wt % (max.) 400 Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

After 5 Launderings Machine/Warp Cross Machine/Filling

10.0 10.0

Toxicity 1/ 1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.4 Batting material, light weight. The batting material used for the hood and outer pockets insulation shall conform to the requirements in Table V. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

TABLE V. Batting Material (light weight) - Physical Requirements.

Weight, oz./sq.yd 2.0 +/- 0.1 Thickness @ 0.002 psi, in., max. 0.35 Intrinsic Clo @ 0.002 psi, min 1.4 Drape stiffness, inches, max 2.5 Dimensional stability, percent, max.

After 5 Launderings Machine/Warp Cross Machine/Filling

10.0 10.0

Water Gain, wt%, max 400 Toxicity 1/

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.5 Cloth, nylon, (reinforcing material). The reinforcement material used for the elbow patches shall be a plain weave, nylon cloth conforming to the requirements in Table VI when tested as specified in 4.5. The color shall match Urban Gray 505.

TABLE VI. Cloth, Nylon (Reinforcing Material) - Physical Requirements.

Weight, oz/sq. yd ( max.) 5.5 Fabric Count, Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp 58 Filling 38 Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp 280 Filling 180

TABLE VI. Cloth, Nylon (Reinforcing Material) - Physical Requirements. (Cont’d)

Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp 8.0 Filling 8.0 Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

At 32oF 0.001 At 70ºF 0.001 Blocking, rating (max.) No. 2 Spray rating Initial 100, 100, 90 After 1 laundering 100, 90, 90 Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail Initial No wetting After 1 laundering No wetting Dynamic absorption, percent (max.) 1/ Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp 2.5 Filling 2.0 Color Urban Gray 505 Spectral Reflectance, % Table II Colorfastness to:

Laundering

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

Light Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

Crocking Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5

Toxicity 2/ 1/ The cloth shall show not more than a 25 percent increase in dynamic absorption properties after one laundering when compared to an unlaundered sample of cloth.

2/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.6 Cloth, inner pockets. The cloth used for the inner pocket shall be a Tricot knit mesh of 100% polyester or equal conforming to the physical requirements in Table VII. The color of the cloth shall match Urban Gray 505. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

TABLE VII. Inner Pocket Material - Physical Requirements.

Weight, oz./ sq. yd. 2.0 +/- 0.2 Colorfastness to:

Laundering Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC

Gray Scale for Color Change Crocking Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC

Gray Scale for Color Change Light Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5

Toxicity 1/ 1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Bias binding tape. The binding tape for the inside pocket shall be a 5-7 oz/sq yd, 100% cotton or polyester/cotton woven material. The material shall be cut on the bias to make a 1-5/8 inch wide binding tape. As an alternate, braided folded elastic 1185 conforming to HNW style B1185 may be used. The color shall be Urban Gray 505.

3.6.2 Elastic material. The elastic material used on the cuffs shall be in accordance with MIL- W-5664, Type II, 1-inch + 1/16 inch in width.

3.6.3 Elastic cord. The elastic cord used on the jacket bottom and hood shall be 1/8 inch, + 1/32,

– 0 inch wide, having an elongation of 120% + 10%; a minimum weight of 0.2 ounces per linear yard; a minimum of 62 picks per inch; 16 carriers, 1 end per carrier; a minimum of 12 elastic strands having a polyester yarn cover. The elastic cord shall have a seared and knotted end. The color shall match Urban Gray 505. Testing shall be as specified in 4.5.

3.6.4 Tape, nylon. The tape used for attaching the hook fastener tape on the cuffs shall conform to type III, class 1, 1-inch wide, of MIL-PRF-5038. The color shall match Urban Gray 505.

3.6.5 Tape, binding. Tape, MIL-PRF-5038, ¼-inch shall be used to attach the barrel locks at the jacket bottom and for the slide fastener thongs.

3.6.6 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126, with selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Urban Gray 505.

3.6.6.1 Alternate tape, loop. As an alternate, loop fastener tape without selvages edges (reduce field fraying) shall conform to class 1 of A-A-55126 except without selvage edges: YKK Cosmolon Edge to Edge" with heat-sealed edges or Velcro "DD", an edge-to-edge loop tape.

Sew all loop tape minimum of 1/8 inch from edge to prevent needle cutting along edges.

However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Urban Gray 505.

3.6.6.2 Alternate tape, hook. As an alternate to hook tape without selvages (reduce field fraying), the following products may be used: Extruded plastic hook tape identified as "Velcro brand HTH 841" or "YKK brand SA200A". The color shall match Urban Gray 505.

3.6.6.3 Colorfastness, tape hook and loop. Unless otherwise specified, for Urban Gray 505, the fastener tapes (hook and loop) shall show fastness to dry cleaning (if required by contract), light (170 Kilojoules), laundering (after 5 cycles) and crocking when tested in paragraph 4.5. The finished tape fasteners shall show fastness equal to or better than a rating “4-5” to dry cleaning and light, equal to or better than a rating of “2-3” for laundering using AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and equal to or better that rating of “4” for crocking using AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. The color depreciation for laundering and light shall remain in the same hue as compared to the original sample. (Hue/cast is defined as the attribute of color that classifies a color as red, blue, green etc.)"

3.6.6.4 Hook and loop laundry durability test method. When tested in accordance with 4.6.14 the hook and loop tapes shall not exhibit fraying edges, peeling yarns, or damage appearance that detracts from the tape appearance or durability.

3.6.7 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be Type I or II, size B, 2-ply at

6.0 pounds breaking strength, with a “Water repellent” treatment, conforming to V-T-295; as an alternate, bobbin/looper thread can be Nylon, size AA, 2-ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 4.0 pounds with a “Water-Repellent” finish. As an alternate to nylon thread, polyester, size B, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to Type I, Class 1, Subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072, or size 40, 2 or 3 ply polyester core thread conforming to A-A-50199. All thread shall be water repellent treated as specified in MIL-T-3530. Stitching shall be 9-12 stitches per inch, lockstitch. The color of the thread shall be Urban Gray 505.

3.6.8 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, with the types and styles as specified below.

3.6.8.1 Front closure slide fasteners. Front closure zippers shall be plastic individual element, type III, style 13 (separating double autolock sliders such that opens both from top and bottom), No. 5 chain with 100 lbs. min. crosswise strength with water resistant treated tape and thong on top slider in shade Urban Gray 505.

3.6.8.2 Pocket slide fasteners. Pocket zippers shall be plastic individual element, type I, style 7 (closed ends, autolock slide that closes when pulled upward), No. 5 chain with 100 lbs. min.

crosswise strength with water resistant treated tape and thong in shade Urban Gray 505.

3.6.9 Barrel lock. The barrel lock shall maintain a 3-lb. minimum holding strength on the elastic draw cord (see 3.6.3) at -40ºF, 70oF and 140oF when tested in accordance with 4.8.13. The barrel locks shall be ½-inch x 3/8- inch elliptical or 3/8-inch round shape, minimum push-button size. The color of the barrel locks shall be Urban Gray 505.

3.6.10 Cannon clip. The cannon clip used inside the front pockets, shall be Urban Gray 505 and it shall be equal to or better than Part #743-0125 of ITW Nexus.

3.6.11 Grommet. The grommets used on the inside of the lower back of the front pockets and also on the inside of the front panels near the hem shall be in accordance with type III, class III, size zero (0) of NASM 16491. The color shall be Urban Gray 505.

3.6.11.1 Eyelet. The eyelets on the inner layer of the hem of the front panels shall be in accordance with NASM 20652, 1B, dash No. ABE-122. The color shall be Urban Gray 505.

3.6.12 Labels. Each parka shall have a label in accordance with Type VI, Class 14 of MIL- DTL-32075. The color of the labels shall approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric or White. In addition it shall contain a bar coding label in accordance with Type VIII and Class 17.

3.6.12.1 The combination size, identification and instruction label for the parka. The combination label shall be sewn on the inside of the parka along the middle back seam of the hood area. The printed label shall be facing the body. The instruction label shall include the following information:

Parka, Extreme Cold Weather Care Instruction Label

LAUNDERING: (DO NOT DRY CLEAN)

a. Home Laundering. The parka shall be machine laundered using the delicate/gentle fabric cycle or laundered by hand. Use cold water (up to 90oF/32o

C) and cold water laundry detergent (i.e. Liquid Tide or Era Plus). Rinse in clean cold water. DO NOT STARCH OR BLEACH. Dry in a tumble dryer at temperature not exceeding 130oF (54oC) as degradation of the component materials will result. Avoid over drying. To drip dry, place on rustproof hanger.

DO NOT PRESS.

b. Field Laundering. The parka shall be field laundered using Formula II of FM 42-414, Appendix E. DO NOT STARCH OR BLEACH.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams, except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The pattern list in Table VIII is provided to insure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns will be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is possible. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Cutters Must (List of Pattern Parts)

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

1 ECLT_FRONT LEFT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

2 ECLT_FRONT RIGHT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

3 ECLT_BACK SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

4 ECLT_SLEEVE SELF CUT 2

5 ECLT_CUFF SELF CUT 2

6 ECLT_CUFF TAB SELF CUT 2

7 ECLT_OUTER COLLAR SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

8 ECLT_INNER COLLAR SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

9 ECLT_COLLAR FACING SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

10 ECLT_COLLAR ENDS SELF CUT 2

11 ECLT_HOOD CENTER SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

12 ECLT_HOOD SIDE SELF CUT 2

13 ECLT_HOOD TAB SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

14 ECLT_ZIP WIND FLAP w/FUSE alternative SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

15 ECLT_BOTTOM BAND SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

16 ECLT_HOOD TUNNEL SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

17 ECLT_INSIDE POCKET BAG C5 CUT 2

18 ECLT_ELBOW PATCH C1 CUT 2

19 ECLT_POCKET BAG UNDER C2+C4 CUT 2

20 ECLT_SLEEVE LINING C2+C3 CUT 2

21 ECLT_FRONT LINING C2+C3 CUT 2

22 ECLT_BACK LINING C2+C3 CUT 1 FACE UP

23 ECLT_HOOD SIDE LINING C2+C4 CUT 2

24 ECLT_HOOD CENTER LINING C2+C4 CUT 1 FACE UP

25 ECLT_INNER COLLAR LINING C2+C4 CUT 1 FACE UP

26 ECLT_CUFF TAB FUSE FUSE CUT 2

27 ECLT_HOOD TAB FUSE FUSE CUT 1 FACE UP

28 ECLT_POCKET BAG TOP C2 CUT 2

COMMENTS BELOW:

SELF = BASIC SHELL MATERIAL

C1 (C0NTRAST1) = NYLON REINFORCING FABRIC

C2 (CONTRAST2) = NYLON RIP-STOP CLOTH (LINING CLOTH)

C3 (CONTRAST3) = HEAVYWEIGHT BATTING MATERIAL

C4 (CONTRAST4) = LIGHTWEIGHT BATTING MATERIAL

C5 (CONTRAST5) = TRICOT KNIT MESH

FUSE : INTERFACING FUSIBLE OR SEW IN

The lengths of the center front, slide fasteners and pocket slide fasteners for the various size-length jackets shall be as shown in TABLE XI, line items 4 and 7, respectively.

3.8 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 stitch and seam types. The backside of seams

(inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams shall be sewn with 9-12 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. The width of the bight of stitching shall not be less than 1/16 inch. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under, or serged. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur.

Loop fastener tape shall be stitched on the loop pile and not on the selvage. Bartacks shall be added for reinforcement as follows and as shown in Figures PARKA, EXTREME COLD WEATHER (GEN III)-VIEW 1 through PARKA, EXTREME COLD WEATHER (GEN III) -

VIEW 4.

Bartack Location Bartack Length, Inch Quantity per Garment Zipper Pull 3/4 4

Batting and ripstop fabric for the front, back and sleeve linings shall be joined by stabilizing stitching. Batting and ripstop fabric for the hood, side and center and the pocket bag front and back shall be joined by quilting.

3.8.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ½-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than ½-inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread of excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn. All 301 stitch and bartack thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than ¼-inch.

3.8.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½- inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.8.1.2 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.8.1.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than ¼ inch unless otherwise specified.

4 VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required (3.1 and 6.3), it shall be examined for the defects in 4.6, the finished dimensions in 4.7 and performance as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.5.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Component and material certification. Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance will be acceptable as evidence that the requirements of 3.5 and 3.6 are met. When certificate of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.5 Basic material testing. The materials specified shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IX in accordance with the test methods specified.

TABLE IX. Basic Material Tests

Paragraph

Test Method

Parka layer shell (outside material) Fiber identification, weave and yarns per inch

3.5.1.1 1/

Weight 3.5.1.2 ASTM D-3776 Breaking strength 3.5.1.2 ASTM D-5034 (GE or GT) Tearing strength 3.5.1.2 ASTM D-1424 Air permeability 3.5.1.2 ASTM D-737 Moisture vapor transmission 3.5.1.2 4.8.1 & 4.8.1.1 Stiffness 3.5.1.2 At 70°F ASTM D-747 5/ At 32°F 2/ & ASTM D-747 5/ Blocking 3.5.1.2 4.8.2 Water permeability 3.5.1.2 Initial 4.8.3 Spray rating 3.5.1.2 Initial 4.8.4.1

TABLE IX. Basic Material Tests (Cont’d)

Test Method

Parka layer shell (outside material) Spray rating 3.5.1.2 After 5 launderings 4.8.4.3 Resistance to organic liquid 3.5.1.2 Initial 4.8.5.1 After 5 launderings 4.8.5.3 & 4.8.5.1 Dynamic absorption 3.5.1.2 AATCC-70 Dimensional stability 3.5.1.2 AATCC-96, Option 1C Color 3.5.1.2 4.8.6 Spectral reflectance Table II 4.8.7 & 4.8.7.1 Colorfastness to:

Laundering 3.5.1.2 4.8.8.1 Light 3.5.1.2 4.8.8.2 Crocking AATCC-8 Toxicity 3.5.1.2 4.8.12 Nylon-rip-stop (lining material) Fiber identification and weave 3.5.2 1/ Weight 3.5.2 ASTM D-3776 Fabric count 3.5.2 ASTM D-3775 Breaking strength 3.5.2 ASTM D-5034(GE or GT) Tearing strength 3.5.2 ASTM D-1424 Air permeability 3.5.2 ASTM D-737 Color 3.5.2 4.8.6 Spectral reflectance Table II 4.8.7 & 4.8.7.1 Colorfastness to:

Laundering 3.5.2 4.8.8.1 Light 3.5.2 4.8.8.2 Crocking 3.5.2 AATCC-8 Toxicity 3.5.2 4.8.12 Batting material, heavy weight Weight 3.5.3 ASTM D-3776 Thickness 3/ Intrinsic Clo @ 0.002 psi 3.5.3 ASTM C-518 Drape stiffness 3.5.3 ASTM D-1388 Water Gain 3.5.3 4/ Dimensional stability 3.5.3 AATCC-135 (1)(V )(A)(i) Toxicity 3.5.3 4.8.12 Batting material, lightweight Weight 3.5.4 ASTM D-3776 Thickness 3.5.4 3/ Intrinsic Clo @ 0.002 psi 3.5.4 ASTM C-518 Drape stiffness 3.5.4 ASTM D-1388 Water Gain 3.5.4 4/

Test Method

Batting material, lightweight Dimensional stability 3.5.4 AATCC-135 (1)(V )(A)(i) Toxicity 3.5.4 4.8.12 Cloth, inner pockets Fiber identification and knit type 3.5.6 1/ Weight 3.5.6 & 3.6.1 ASTM D-3776 Colorfastness to:

Laundering 3.5.6 AATCC-61, IIA Crocking 3.5.6 AATCC-8 Light 3.5.6 4.8.8.2 Toxicity 3.5.6 4.8.12 Cloth, Nylon (reinforcing material for elbow patches)

Fiber identification and weave 3.5.5 1/ Weight 3.5.5 ASTM D-3776 (Method C) Fabric count 3.5.5 ASTM D-3775 Breaking strength 3.5.5 ASTM D-5034 (G-E or G-T Tearing strength 3.5.5 ASTM D-1424 Stiffness At 70°F 3.5.5 ASTM D-747 5/ At 32°F 3.5.5 2/ & ASTM D-747 5/ Blocking 3.5.5 4.8.2 Spray rating Initial 3.5.5 4.8.4.1 After 1 laundering 3.5.5 4.8.4.2 & 4.8.4.1 Resistance to organic liquid Initial 3.5.5 4.8.5.1 After 1 laundering 3.5.5 4.8.5.2 & 4.8.5.1 Dynamic absorption 3.5.5 Initial AATCC-70 After 1 laundering 4.8.8.3 & AATCC-70 Dimensional stability 3.5.5 AATCC-96, Option 1C, A Color 3.5.5 4.8.6 Spectral reflectance Table II 4.8.7 & 4.8.7.1 Colorfastness to:

Laundering 3.5.5 4.8.8.1 Light 3.5.5 4.8.8.2 Crocking 3.5.5 AATCC-8 Toxicity 3.5.5 4.8.12 Elastic cord Elongation 3.4.9 4.8.10 Weight 3.4.9 ASTM D- 3776 Picks/inch 3.4.9 Visual

Test Method

Elastic cord Number of carriers 3.4.9 Visual Ends per carrier 3.4.9 Visual Elastic strands/width 3.4.9 4.8.11 Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop Color 3.5.3 4.8.6 Colorfastness To:

Dry cleaning 3.6.6.3 AATCC -132 Light 3.6.6.3 4.8.8.2 Laundering after 5 cycles 3.6.6.3 AATCC – 61, Opt. 3A Crocking 3.6.6.3 AATCC – 8 Laundry Durability 3.6.6.4 4.6.14 - 4.6.14.4

1/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this characteristic.

2/ The test specimens and testing machine shall be exposed to 32°F + 2°F for 4 hours. The test shall then be performed in still air at that temperature.

3/ Batting thickness shall be measured on panels using a 12” x 12” calibrated Measure-Matic Thickness Gauge, or equivalent, under a pressure of 0.002 pounds per inch (psi).

4/ The insulation should adsorb a maximum weight gain in water when subjected to room temperature distilled water for 20 minutes with excess water when removed via centrifugation at 1500rpm for 5 minutes.

5/ Stiffness (bending moment) shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D-747 except as follows:

a. Unless otherwise specified, the testing conditions shall be in accordance with ASTM D-1776.

b. The test specimen shall be a rectangle of cloth of dimensions two (2) by one (1) inches with the long dimension parallel to the fabric direction under test, warp or filling, as applicable.

c. The load scale reading shall be recorded only at the specimen angular deflection of 60 degrees.

d. The stiffness is the bending moment of specimen at a deflection angle of 60 degrees and shall be calculated to three significant figures as follows:

Bending moment, in.-lb. = Load scale reading x moment weight*

* Testing machine of Tinius Olsen Testing Machine Co.

4.6 End item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table X. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. All shade evaluations of the garments shall be evaluated at a distance of approximately 3 feet and under the artificial daylight as specified in 4.8.6.

TABLE X. End item visual examination

Classification Examination Defect Major Minor Material defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on a any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

Component and assembly

Any defective component 1/ Any component part omitted Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Drawcord

Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord Any end not heat seared Any drawcord omitted Any end not knotted Any drawcord insufficient in length Any barrel lock omitted Not caught in center bartack, when specified

Slide fastener

Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective Not closing as specified Length not as specified Color not as specified Thong not as specified

Snap fastener

Any part of assembly missing, mismated, broken, cracked, bent, not securely clinched, affecting function:

- two or more snap fasteners

- one snap fastener One or more clinched too tightly cutting surrounding fabric Loose, i.e., socket or stud spins freely or wobbles in connection portions One or more having rough or sharp edge

Wrist tabs

Missing Improperly located 1/

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect Incorrectly placed or attached

TABLE X. End item visual examination (Cont’d)

Classification Examination Defect Major Minor Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/ Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than ½ inch Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than ½ inch Color not as specified Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance Seam tape lifting off fabric Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric) in excess of 3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

Open seams

More than 1/8 inch up to ¼ inch More than ¼ inch

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching Not specified seam or stitch type Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

Stitch tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching) Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one stitch

- two or more stitches More than maximum specified

Pockets and flaps Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than ¼-inch Pocket or flap poorly shaped Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 inch or more Insignia tab set crookedly Pocket divider not properly placed

TABLE X. End item visual examination (Cont’d)

Classification Examination Defect Major Minor Heat sealed seams and non-wicking buffer

Any seam tape not located as specified Non-wicking buffer missing Non-wicking buffer not properly placed Any seam tape not 1/8 inch overlap on each side of sewn seam Any seam tape not overlapped ¾ inch minimum Any required stitching not covered by seam tape Any needle punctures that have not been repaired using heat sealing tape Any area of the laminate knit fabric bordering the seam tape that is melted exposing laminate film

Repairs Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 25 inches in length More than five repairs on any one item 1/

Seam tape adhesion Seam tape lifting off fabric within ¾ inch of seam 1/ Visible scorching (heat degradation of the fabric on the laminate) in excess of 3/16 inch in width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

Shaded part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/ Any part required to be cut form one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Fronts Length of fronts

Hem uneven by ¼ inch or more at bottom when fastened Uneven by ¼ inch or more at neck when fastened Flaps uneven by more than ¼ inch when fastened Left flap less than ¼ inch longer at bottom than right flap when fastened

Bartacks Bartack omitted Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

- more than two

- two or less Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken Length or width not as specified

Hood flap Snaps not in locations specified Loop fasteners not in locations specified Not heat sealed

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or illegible Not attached to location specified Causes damage to the garment

Fastener tape hook & pile

Not properly placed Not specified length

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as a minor when affecting serviceability but not seriously.

4.7 Jacket finished measurements. The jacket finished measurements shall be in accordance with Table XI.

TABLE XI. Parka Finished Measurements (Measurements in inches)

REGULAR XS S M L XL 2XL TOL +/-

1 ACROSS CHEST 1/ 25 ½ 27 ½ 29 ½ 31 ½ 33 ½ 35 ½ -0.25",+0.5"

2 BACK LENGTH 2/ 31 31 1/2 32 32 1/2 33 33 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

3 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 3/ 36 36 3/4 37 1/2 38 1/4 39 39 3/4 -0.5", +0.5"

4 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 4/ 30 30 1/2 31 31 1/2 32 32 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

6 CUFF FINSHED MEASUREMENT 6/ 5 5 ¼ 5 ½ 5 ¾ 6 6 1/4 -0.25", +0.25"

7 POCKET ZIPPER LENGTH 7/ 9 9 9 9 9 9 -0.5", +0.5"

8 HOOD DEPTH 8/ 11 11 ½ 12 12 ½ 13 13 ½ -0.25", +0.25"

9 HOOD OPENING 9/ 15 ¾ 16 16 ¼ 16 ½ 16 ¾ 17 -0.25", +0.25"

10 FRT HOOD OPENING CORD FINISHED KNOT 10/ 32 1/2 33 33 1/2 34 34 1/2 35 -0.5", +0.5"

11 HEM ELASTIC CORD 11/ 60 64 68 72 76 80 -0.5", +0.5"

12 INSIDE POCKET ELASTIC MEASUREMENT 12/ 7 1/2 8 8 1/2 9 9 1/2 10

13 CUFF ELASTIC MEASUREMENT 13/ 3 1/2 3 1/2 4 4 4 1/2 4 1/2

SHORT XS S

2 BACK LENGTH 30 30 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

3 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 34 1/2 35 1/4 -0.5", +0.5"

4 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 29 29 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

LONG S M L XL 2XL

2 BACK LENGTH 32 1/2 33 33 1/2 34 34 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

3 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 38 1/4 39 39 3/4 40 1/2 41 1/4 -0.5", +0.5"

4 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 31 1/2 32 32 1/2 33 33 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

XLONG XL 2XL

2 BACK LENGTH 35 35 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

3 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 42 42 3/4 -0.5", +0.5"

4 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 34 34 1/2 -0.5", +0.5"

1/ Across chest measurement is taken at bottom of armhole flat from edge to edge.

2/ Back Length Measurement is taken from bottom of center back neck straight to bottom of hem 3/ Sleeve length from CB is taken from bottom of center back neck straight to sleeve hem with sleeve extended out flat.

4/ CF zipper opening is taken from top of top stop to bottom of bottom stop.

6/ Cuff Opening is taken from edge to edge at sleeve hem flat and relaxed.

7/ Front pocket zipper is measured from bottom of top stop to top of bottom zipper stop.

8/ Hood depth is measured 9” up from neck point with hood folded in half and flat from the back of the hood to the front 9/Hood Opening is measured with hood fold in half flat from bottom of hood opening to top of hood at hood opening 10/,11/,12/ & 13/ For construction purposes only not for measuring

SEAM ALLOWANCE:

1/2" : all seams except for:

3/8" : neckline

4.8 Methods of testing. All testing shall be done in a standard condition environment defined by the ASTM D-1776, if not specifically defined by the individual test procedure.

4.8.1 Moisture vapor transmission rate. ASTM E-96 with temperature and humidity conditions of 73.5° +/-1°F and 50 +/- 2% Relative Humidity. The linear air flow velocity in the wind tunnel shall be set to yield an upright, “open cup” evaporation rate at all test specimen positions of 15,000 +/-1,000 g/m2/24h The evaporation rate shall be determined by conducting an upright cup, Procedure B test (see 4.8.1.1), without a test specimen for a period of exactly two (2) hours).

4.8.1.1 Procedure B, ASTM E-96. The backside of the basic material shall face the water. The test specimen shall be conditioned, after set-up in the test cup with water level of ¾ +/-1/16-inch below the specimen surface, in the wind tunnel for a period of not less than four (4) hours and not more than sixteen (16) hours (Conditioning time of less than 4-hours may be used provided that equilibrium conditions have been demonstrated to exist within the test sample/sample cup/wind tunnel. In cases of dispute, the conditioning time shall be 4-hours). After conditioning, the cup shall be immediately weighed to start the test and again after exactly twenty-four (24) hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimens shall be tested.

4.8.2 Blocking. ASTM D-751, Blocking Resistance at Elevated Temperatures, except that the test shall be performed at a temperature of 180° +/- 2°F for 30 minutes. Only one (1) specimen shall be tested. Evaluate the resistance of the specimen to blocking by the scale given below:

1 – No Blocking. Cloth surfaces are free and separate without any evidence of cohesion or adhesion.

2 – Trace Blocking. Cloth surfaces show slight cohesion or adhesion.

3 – Slight Blocking. Cloth surfaces must be lightly peeled to separate.

4 – Blocking. Cloth surfaces separate with difficulty or coating is removed during separation.

4.8.3 Water permeability. ASTM D-751, Hydrostatic Resistance, Procedure B, Procedure 1 with a rising hydrostatic head at 10 mm/sec applied to the face side of the test specimen. Five

(5) specimens shall be tested. Leakage is defined as the appearance of one (1) or more droplets of water within the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area.

4.8.4 Spray rating.

4.8.4.1 Initial. Testing shall be conducted in accordance with AATCC-22

4.8.4.2 After 1 laundering (for cloth, nylon (reinforcing)). Test specimens shall be laundered for one (1) laundering cycle in accordance with AATCC-96, Test VI, A.

4.8.4.3 After 5 laundering (on loft layer shell fabric). Test specimens shall be laundered for five

(5) laundering cycle in accordance with 4.8.8.3 and then tested for spray rating.

4.8.5 Resistance to organic liquids.

4.8.5.1 Initial. Place a small specimen of the cloth on a smooth horizontal surface, face side up.

Using a pipette or eyedropper, gently deposit one (1) drop of n-tetradecane on the surface of the specimen. After 30 seconds, examine the specimen under light at an angle. Absence of light reflectance at the cloth/drop interface shall be taken as evidence of wetting. Three (3) specimens (or areas) taken at various locations across the sample unit shall be tested. Evidence of wetting on one (1) or more specimens shall be considered a test failure.

4.8.5.2 After 1 laundering (for cloth, nylon (reinforcing)). Test specimens shall be laundered for one (1) laundering cycle in accordance with AATCC-96, Test VI, A.

4.8.5.3 After 5 launderings . Test specimens shall be laundered for five (5) laundering cycles in accordance with 4.8.8.3 and then tested for resistance to organic liquids.

4.8.6 Color matching. The color and appearance of the cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight and that have a correlated color temperature of 7500o + 200oK, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856o + 200oK.

4.8.7 Spectral reflectance. Spectral reflectance data shall be determined on the face side and shall be obtained from 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) at 20nm intervals on a spectrophotometer relative to the barium sulfate standard, the preferred white standard. Other white reference materials may be used provided they are calibrated to absolute white, e.g., magnesium oxide or vitolite tiles. The spectral bandwidth shall be less than 26nm at 860nm. Reflectance measurements may be made by either the monochromatic or polychromatic mode of operation.

When the polychromatic mode is used the spectrophotometer shall operate with the specimen diffusely illuminated with the full emission of a source that simulates either CIE source A or CIE source D65. The specimen shall be measured as a single layer, backed with six layers of the same fabric and shade. Measurements shall be taken on a minimum of two (2) different areas and the data averaged. The measured areas should be at least 6-inches away from the selvage.

The specimen shall be viewed at an angle no greater than 10 degrees from normal, with the spectral component included. Photometric accuracy of the spectrophotometer shall be within 1 percent and wavelength accuracy within 2 nm. The standard aperture size used in the color measurement device shall be 1.0 to 1 1/4-inches in diameter. Any color having spectral reflectance values falling outside the limits at four or more of the wavelengths specified shall be considered test failure.

4.8.7.1 Accelerated laundering (Spectral Reflectance Durability Test.). The cloth shall be laundered separately in accordance with AATCC-61 (Option 3A) except that a 4-gram sample size shall be used (Note: A sample size large enough to evaluate the spectral reflectance shall be used) and that the procedure shall be conducted using (10) stainless steel spheres and the 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent without optical brightener. The samples shall then be evaluated for spectral reflectance in accordance with 4.8.7.

4.8.8 Colorfastness.

4.8.8.1 Laundering. AATCC-61, Test 1A (3 cycles) except that 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent (non-phosphate) without optical brighteners shall be used.

4.8.8.2 Light. AATCC-16, Option A (after 40 fading units) or E (after 170 kilojoules).

4.8.8.3 Laundering procedure.