MTL-DTL-21115L.pdf

MIL-DTL-21115L

24 June 2005___

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-21115K

18 December 1987

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CLOTH, TROPICAL: WOOL, POLYESTER/WOOL

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers wool and polyester/wool blend tropical cloths.

1.2 Classification. The cloth should be of the following types and classes as specified in 6.2.

Type I - Wool Class 1 - 6.75 ounce (see 6.6) Class 2 - 5.5 ounce (see 6.6)

Type III - Polyester/wool blend Class 1 - 5.8 ounce (see 6.6) Class 2 - 4.85 ounce (see 6.6) Class 3 - 6.5 ounce (see 6.6) Class 4 - 6.6 ounce (see 6.6)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRDD ( Bldg 6D), 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092 or emailed to http://ct.dscp.dla.mil.

Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) Online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil.

AMSC/NA FSC 8305

INCH-POUND

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2021-10-12T14:20Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43665 - Cloth Wool: Mothproofing Treatment Of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings. and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act

(Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue at Sixth Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Copies are available online at www.usda.gov or from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402.)

2.3 Non-Government standards and other publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC – 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC – 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC – 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC – 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitive AATCC – 81 - pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processing Textiles AATCC – 99 - Dimensional Changes on Woven or Knitted Textiles:

Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting AATCC – 128 - Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method AATCC – 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC – 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of documents are available on line at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM-D–3511 - Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes Fabrics – Brush Pilling Tester Method ASTM-D-3775 - Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM-D-3776 - Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM-D-5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of documents are available on line at www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of documents are available online at www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Stock.

3.4.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 64's U.S. Standard, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-product is prohibited (see 4.3.1.1).

3.4.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches for the Type III cloth. The denier shall be suitable to blend adequately with the specified wool grade. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing shall be as specified 4.3.4.

3.4.2 Yarn.

3.4.2.1 Wool yarn, for Type I. The wool yarn shall be spun from combed top on either the Bradford, French, or American system. The Type I, Class 1 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in both the warp and filling. The Type I, Class 2 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in the warp and singles yarn in the filling (see 4.3.4). The Type I finished cloth shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4.

3.4.2.2 Polyester/wool blend yarn, for Type III. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be blended and spun into a 2-ply yarn for both warp and filling for Class 1, 2, and 3 and into a 3-ply yarn for both warp and filling for Class 4. As an alternate, the Class 2 cloth may be woven with a singles yarn for both warp and filling (see 4.3.4). The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited (see 4.3.2). The finished cloth shall consist of the following fiber percentages based on the dry chloroform-extracted specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4.

Percentage Fiber Minimum Maximum

Polyester 55 60 Wool, 64's U.S. Std (or finer) 40 --

3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample.

The color of Type I cloth shall be obtained by blending stock or top dyed wools; the color of Type III shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top or tow dyed polyester fibers with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and then blended. Pigmented fibers may be used on Type III cloth in lieu of dyed, provided that the resultant blend will have appearance characteristics equal to or better than that of the standard sample. Monotone shades regardless of blend composition shall present a solid appearance with not more of a heathery appearance than is displayed by the standard sample. When the Marine Corps Green 2241 for Type III is specified, the cloth shall be produced by blending white stock with color stock to obtain the shade and heather effect shown by the standard sample.

3.5.1 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material, in accordance with MIL-C-43665, shall be accomplished during stock, top, or piece dyeing as applicable (see 4.3.4).

3.5.2 Visual shade matching (all types and classes). The color and shade of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 ± 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 ± 200 K.

3.5.3 Colorfastness (all types and classes). The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements in below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.3.4.

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements (all types and classes)

Colors Evaluation

Light (40 hrs or 170 KJ) 2/ (min.)

Wet Dry-cleaning (1 cycle) 1/ (min.)

Perspiration (acid & alka-line) 1/

Crocking 3/

All colors 3-4 3-4 3-4 All colors except Black 439 and Blue 1083

3.5

Black 439 and Blue 1083 3.0

1/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ Rated using the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed below, in Table IIa. and b., when tested as specified in 4.3.4.

TABLE IIa. Physical requirements (Type I)

Characteristic Class 1 Class 2 Weight, oz./sq.yd. 6.75 (+ 0.5) 5.5 (min) Yarns per inch, (min.)

Warp Filling

Breaking strength, lbs., (min.)

Shrinkage percent, (max.)

4.0 3.0

Weave Plain Plain

TABLE IIb. Physical requirements (Type III)

Characteristic Class 1 Class 2 Class 3 Class 4 Weight, oz./sq.yd. 5.8 (+ 0.5) 4.85 (min) 6.5 (+ 0.5) 6.6 (+ 0.5) Yarns per inch, (min.)

Breaking strength, lbs., (min.)

Shrinkage percent, (max.)

2.5 2.0

Weave Plain Plain Plain Plain

3.6.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified, the width of the finished cloth for all types and classes shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvage.

3.7 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, lightly fulled, brushed, sheared, pressed, and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample.

3.7.1 Creping. The finished cloth shall show no more creping after the shrinkage test than exhibited by the standard sample. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.4.

3.7.2 Wrinkle resistance. The Type III finished cloth shall not show wrinkling to a greater degree than shown by the standard sample after one dry-cleaning. When a standard sample is not available the cloth shall show a Wrinkle Recovery rating of 4.0. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.4.

3.7.3 Pilling. The Type III cloth shall be processed to show no more pilling than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available the cloth shall show a rating of 4 using the ASTM Photograph Rating Standard (see 6.4). Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.4.

3.7.4 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not lower than 5.5 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.3.4.

3.8 Length and put-up. For Government procurement only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up on full-width rolls as specified in 5.1.

3.9 Wool content label. The cloth shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act (see 2.2.2).

3.10 Marking. The back of the cloth shall be marked "Back" at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height (see 4.3.3.3). The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking medium used commercially.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point value.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for color, shade and defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table III.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of

4.3.1.1 through 4.3.4 and the tests in Table III as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with quality acceptance levels as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated.

4.3.1 Material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, the materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.3.1.1 Wool grade examination. The wool shall be examined for grade (see 3.4.1.1) in the undyed top form by comparison with the applicable U.S. Standard (see 2.2.2). In the event of a dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be 1 yard or top, prior to dyeing and to blending with polyester fibers. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be as listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one pound and the results from each sample unit shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade.

Lot size (pounds) Sample size (sample units

800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to assure that no laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products are used (see 3.4.1.1), and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.5). The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.3.3 End item examination.

4.3.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. The yard-by-yard examination shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655, except that the through-lighting inspection procedures shall not apply to the Type III, Class 2 cloth. The fabric quality for all shades except Khaki 3729 shall be Quality Level 8 for Khaki 3729 the fabric quality shall be Quality Level 10.

4.3.3.1.1 Limits of slubs and knots. Only slubs and knots, which exceed "D" or 3-1/2 as applicable for slubs and "C" for knots on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale shall be scored (see 6.5).

4.3.3.2 Examination for length. The examination for length shall be as specified in

MIL-STD-655.

4.3.3.3 Examination for back marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act. The examination for back marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.3.3.4 Examination for shade and appearance. A sample from each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade (see 3.5.2). The sample shall be a 4-inch by 20-inch swatch of the cloth. A sample shall be drawn from each roll in the lot. A roll shall be unacceptable if the sample fails to meet the requirements for shade.

4.3.3.5 Examination for defect marking. The examination for defect marking (stringing of defects) shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.3.4 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the applicable characteristics listed in Table III. The methods of testing specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The sample unit shall be 4-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE III. End item tests

1/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and acceptable for the stated requirement (see 6.6).

2/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass or fail”.

3/ As specified in MIL-C-43665.

4/ Each shrinkage test specimen shall be visually examined for creping and the results reported as "pass" or "fail". Failure of any one of the test specimens shall be cause for rejection.

5/ The specimens shall be dry cleaned in accordance AATCC 158, except that the specimens shall not be marked and evaluated for shrinkage and shall not be pressed. Wrinkle resistance shall be evaluated against the Wrinkle Recovery Replicas in accordance with AATCC Method 128.

Characteristic

Requirement Paragraph

Test method

Material Polyester:

Fiber Identification

3.4.1.2

1/

Yarn Ply:

Type I Type III

3.4.2.1 3.4.2.2

Visual 2/ Visual 2/

Fiber Percentage:

Type I Type III

3.4.2.1 3.4.2.2

AATCC-20A

AATCC-20A

Mothproofing content 3.5.1 3/ Visual shade matching 3.5.2 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Opt A Colorfastness:

Light (after 40 hrs or 170 kilojoules) Wet dry-cleaning (1 cycle) Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Crocking

3.5.3

AATCC-16 Opt 1 or 3

AATCC-132

AATCC-15

AATCC-8

Weight 3.6 ASTM-D-3776, Opt C Yarns per inch 3.6 ASTM-D-3775 Breaking Strength 3.6 ASTM-D-5034, G-E or G-T Shrinkage 3.6 AATCC 99 Weave 3.6 Visual 2/ Creping after shrinkage 3.7.1 Visual 4/ Wrinkle resistance 3.7.2 AATCC 158 5/ and AATCC-128 5/ Pilling 3.7.3 ASTM-D-3511 pH 3.7.4 AATCC-81

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activity within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. Type I, Class 2 and Type III, Class 2 cloths are used for neckties. Type I, Class 1, and Type III, Class 1, 3, and 4 cloths are intended for use in the manufacturing of shirts, coats, and trousers for officers and enlisted personnel of the Department of Defense.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Type and class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. ASSIST will be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. Color required (see 3.5).

f. Width required if other than 60 inches (see 3.6.1).

g. Length required if other than specified (see 3.8).

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 Standard sample. For access to samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.4 Photograph Rating Standard. The Photograph Rating Standards are available from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.

6.5 Fabric defect scales. Fabric Defect Replica Kits are available from Sears Roebuck and Company, Department 817, (ATTN: BSC 23-29), Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684.

6.6 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

Clothing Dress Uniforms Mothproofing

6.8 Superseding data. The weight; ounces per linear yard based on 56 inch width in revision “K” have been converted to ounces per square yard (oz/yd

) in revision “L” as follows:

MIL-C-21115K MIL-C-21115L

Type I - Wool Type I - Wool Class 1 - 10.5 ounce Class 1 - 6.75 oz/yd2 Class 2 - 8.5 ounce Class 2 - 5.5 oz/yd2

Type III - Polyester/wool blend Type III - Polyester/wool blend Class 1 - 9.0 ounce Class 1 - 5.8 oz/yd2 Class 2 - 7.7 ounce Class 2 - 4.85 oz/yd2 Class 3 - 10.0 ounce Class 3 - 6.5 oz/yd2 Class 4 - 10.5 ounce Class 4 - 6.6 oz/yd2

6.9 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issues, due to the extensiveness of the changes.

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Army – GL DLA - CT Navy - NU Air Force – 11 Project No. 8305-0848

Review activities:

Navy - MC Air Force - 99

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil.