GL-PD 19007A.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-19007A

5 February 2020

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-19007

15 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, ELASTIQUE, POLYESTER AND WOOL

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester and wool blend elastique cloth.

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers one (1) type of polyester and wool elastique cloth in the following classes.

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 - Untreated

Class 2 - Water Repellent Treated

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the

Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene

Avenue Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-655 – Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies of this document are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA)

Methods of Determining Grades of Wool Top

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ams.usda.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5, Fabric Hand Guidelines for the Subjective Evaluation Of

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC Test Method 22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 99 - Dimensional Changes of Woven or Knitted Textiles, Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to DryCleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.)

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM D3511/D3511M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics – Brush Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure -

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online https://www.crcpress.com.)

http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.sdlatlas.com/ https://www.astm.org/ https://www.crcpress.com/

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection

(see 4.2 and 6.3).

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Certification. All cloth, when purchased in lots by AAFES or a commercial supplier, shall be certified by the Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center (see 4.6 and 6.7).

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Stock.

3.5.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece wool or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than

64’s U.S. Standard. The use of recycled material, noils, laps or any other wool manufacturing by-product shall be prohibited. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.6.

3.5.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3-1/2-inches and shall be a suitable denier to blend adequately with the specified wool grade. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.6.

3.5.2 Yarn. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester fiber and wool fiber, blended and spun into a

2-ply yarn for both warp and filling. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.6.

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall contain 55 (+ 5) percent polyester with the remaining percentage wool, based on the dry weight of the desized specimen. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz./sq. yd. 8.7 (± 0.3)

Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp

Filling

Tearing strength, lbs.(min.)

Breaking strength, lbs. (min.)

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

4.0

3.0

3.6.1 Weave. The weave shall be a steep twill as shown on Figure 1.

3.6.2 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

3.7 Color. The color of the dyed and finished cloth shall match Heritage Green 564, or as specified in the contract and shall match the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.7.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5.1. The color shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top or tow dyed polyester fibers, with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and then blended.

3.7.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth specified in 3.6 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements specified in Table II, unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements.

Color

Evaluation

Light (1 cycle)(Color Change and Staining)

(40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm)@

420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration

(Acid & Alkaline)

(Color Change and Staining)

(min.)

Crocking

Wet & Dry

(min.)

Wet

Drycleaning

(1 cycle) (Color

Change and

Staining)(min.)

All colors 3-4 3-4 3.5 3-4

1/ (AFU) AATCC Fading Units

3.8 Finish. The cloth shall be brushed, sheared, pressed and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample, when tested as specified in Table IV (see 6.4).

3.8.1 Mothproofing. The mothproofing of the wool material shall be in accordance with

MIL-C-43665. It shall be accomplished during the stock or top dyeing and tested as specified in

MIL-C-43665.

3.8.2 Water repellency (Class 2 only). The Class 2 cloth shall be treated with a durable water repellent finish and shall conform to the requirements specified in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

TABLE III. Water repellency (Class 2 only).

Spray Rating (min.)

Initial 90, 90, 80

After 1 Drycleaning 80, 80, 70

3.9 Pilling. The cloth shall be processed to show no more pilling than the standard sample.

When no standard sample is available the cloth shall show a rating of no less than a “4” using the

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.6.

3.10 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

3.11 Selvage thickness. The selvages shall be no thicker than thirty (30) percent more than the body of the cloth when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

3.12 Fabric appearance rating. The finished cloth shall have an appearance rating of not less than “3.5” when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

3.13 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see

6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 5.1.

3.14 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act and Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act.

3.15 Marking. The face or the back side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the either word “FACE” or “BACK” at each end of the piece. The letters shall not be less than 1/2-inch in height. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially.

3.16 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.2. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.17 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in

Section 4 shall not exceed the applicable established maximum point values.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in

4.4.4.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations of 4.4.1 through 4.4.5 and the testing in 4.4.6 through 4.5.2, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI and the acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.4.1 Examination for length. The examination for length shall be a specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.4.2 Examination for defect marking (stringing of defects). The examination for defect marking (stringing of defects) shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.4.3 Yard by yard examination. The yard by yard examination shall be as specified in

MIL-STD-655. The demerit point per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in

MIL-STD-655, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. The defects specified below shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur.

Any hole, cut, tear or abrasion mark

Area of poor dye penetration, streaky or shade bar

Width not as specified within a tolerance of no less than 1/2-inch

Objectionable odor

Any embedded foreign matter or overall uncleanness

Edges rolled, folded, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth

4.4.4 Shade and finish appearance examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll shall be examined for shade and appearance. Any roll off shade; shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finished appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.5 Roll identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll shall be examined for defects listed below: The lot shall be unacceptable if the following defects are present in the sample.

Back or face stamping missing from either or both ends

Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and Rules and Regulations Under the Wool

Products Labeling Act

4.4.6 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV. The methods of testing specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

TABLE IV. End item testing.

Characteristic

Requirement paragraph

Test Method

Wool grade

Material:

Wool

Polyester

Fiber length (polyester)

Yarn ply, warp and filling

Weight

Yarns per inch, warp and filling

Tear strength, lbs.

Breaking strength, warp and filling, lbs.

Dimensional stability (relaxation)

Weave

Width

Visual shade matching

Colorfastness:

Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm)

@420 nm)

Perspiration, acid and alkaline

Crocking, wet and dry

Wet drycleaning (1 cycle)

Finish

Mothproofing

Water repellent treatment, Spray rating (Class 2 only)

Initial

After 1 drycleaning

Pilling pH

Selvage thickness

Fabric appearance rating

Toxicity

3.5.1.1

3.5.1.1

3.5.1.2

3.5.1.2

3.5.2

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

3.6.1

3.6.2

3.7.1

Table II

Table II

Table II

Table II

3.8

3.8.1

3.8.2

3.8.2

3.9

3.10

3.11

3.12

3.16

U.S Standard (see 2.2.2)

AATCC 20A

AATCC 20A

Precision steel ruler 1/

Visual 2/

ASTM D3776/D3776M

ASTM D3775

ASTM D1424

ASTM D5034

AATCC 99

Visual

Precision steel ruler

4.5.1 and 6.8

AATCC 16.3, Opt. 3 2/

AATCC 15 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 132 3/

5/

6/

AATCC 22 7/

AATCC 158 and AATCC 22

ASTM D3511/D3511M 8/

AATCC 81

ASTM D1777

5/

4.5.2

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass” or

“fail”.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

3/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC

Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference

Scale.

5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5, Fabric Hand Guidelines for the Subjective

Evaluation Of

6/ The mothproofing shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements of

MIL-C-43665.

7/ The results of the three (3) individual determinations on the sample unit for spray rating shall be equal to or better than the specified ratings when tested as specified.

8/ The pilling test shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D3511/D3511M, except that five (5) specimens of each test cloth shall be tested.

4.5 Methods of inspection.

4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option C (see 6.8) with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.2 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the

Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.16) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see

6.2).

4.6 Certification. When the cloth is purchased individually or in lots, by AAFES or a commercial supplier, the supplier shall obtain certification, as specified in 3.4, and provide their assigned certification number to the purchaser to ensure that the item has been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description (see 6.7).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of cloth is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department of Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military

Departments or Agencies automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of dress uniforms worn by

Army personnel as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2, and 6.3).

e. Width of cloth required (see 3.6.2).

f. Color required (see 3.7).

g. Length and put-up, if other than specified (see 3.13).

h. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.16 and 4.5.2).

i. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

j Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

k. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.6 Replica Set. The SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Set is not available from their website at this time. Recommend calling customer service, 1-803-329-2110 and request Item Number 402985-

Replica set.

6.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.8 Visual shade matching. In 2019, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual

Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.9 Summary of changes since last revision.

a. Included MIL-STD-655 for evaluating quality of cloth.

b. Updated format and typographical errors where required.

6.10 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Coats

Dress Uniform

Mothproofing

Water Repellent Treated

FIGURE 1. Weave construction (elastique).

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army - GL Army - GL