revised_raincoat_SPECS_2017.docx

PD# 349B (16 OCT 98)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION FOR

RAINCOAT, MAN'S, CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

1. SCOPE

1.1 This purchase description covers the requirements for a Cadet (United States Military Academy) raincoat with an attached cape and a carrying pouch.

1.2 Classification: The raincoat shall be of one type in the following sizes (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes

CHEST SIZE LENGTH

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of incitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

MILITARY

FEDERAL

MILITARY

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION ARMY NATICK LABORATORIES

NLABS PD# 377 - Cloth, coated, Polyester (USMA)

(Copies of specification, purchase descriptions, standards and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of the documents which are D0D adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Standard Color Card of America

Department of Defense Standards Shades for Sewing Thread Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons (Applications for color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927, If color cards we not available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual of the American Associations of Textile Chemists and Colorists

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall raise precedence. Nothing in this document; however, supersedes laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. All offerors shall send a sample of Raincoat chest size 36 length 48 for evaluation to Ms. Maureen Flanagan at Bldg 681 Hardee Pl, RM-104 West Point, NY 10996 by close of Solicitation date 01/27/17 by 3:00 pm. The mailed sample must contain the following information: Name of Company, Contact Name (First & Last), Mailing Address, City, State, Zip Code, Direct Phone Number, and Email Address. Please include the Solicitation Number (W911SD-18-T-0054) on package. See Addendum

3.2 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 63). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample in which case this purchase description shall govern.

3.3 Materials

3.3.1 Coated cloth. The tested cloth used to make the raincoat and pouch shall conform to Natick Laboratories Purchase Order Description No. 377. See deviation 26 September 2002

3.3.2. Interlining. The interlining for the cape, coat front, and collar shall have a permanent resin finish and meet the following physical requirements:

Weight - ounces per square yard 4.0 maximum Texture - threads per inch (minimum), warp 48, filling 28 Yarn composition 51% cotton, 49% rayon

Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1.

3.3.3. Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be size 50-3 conforming to class 1 of MIL-T-43624. The thread shall be vat dyed Cadet Gray TS, C.A.; 66082 and shall be color fast to light, laundering and perspiration.

3.3.4 Gimp. The gimp shall conform to Type II, Class D of V-B-871 in the fallowing styles and sizes:

3.3.5 Buttons - shall conform to Type II, Class D of V-B-871 in the following size: Style 15, line 18 - Stay buttons Style 21/21, line 30 - Collar and collar tab Style 20/21, line 40 - Front Closure

The color of collar and front closure buttons shall match the basic material and have a glossy finish. The color of the stay buttons may be either clear or colorless or may match the basic cloth and have a glossy finish.

3.3.6 Binding. The binding for the arm holes shall be cut from the basic coated cloth and shall be 1 + 1/16 inch in width.

3.3.7 Fastener tape, nylon. The nylon tape fastener for the carrying pouch and cape tab shall be 5/8 inch wide; conforming to Type I, Class 1 of CID A-A-55I26. The color shall match the basin cloth.

3.3.8 Seam sealant. The seam sealant shall be the same chemical composition as the coating compound used to make the coated cloth specified is 3.2. 1 or one of the constituents of the coating compound and shall be compatible with the basic coating and assume the characteristic of the base coating after application. After application of the seam sealant it shall be silicone treated to prevent blocking. Testing shall be specified in 4.3.1.

3.3.9. Labels. The raincoat and pouch shall contain a size label and an identification label of a good commercial quality,

3.3.9.1 Size Label. The size label shall be 7/8 inch by 3/4 inch is dimension and the size and length shal1 be printed thereon. The label shall be positioned in the center of the inside collar and caught in the stitching and on pouch flap approximately 3 -1/2 inches up from flap point.

3.3.9.2. Identification label. The identification label, for raincoat and poach shall be of good commercial quality and contain the following information:

Nomenclature Name__________________________________________________________ Maker__________________________________________________________ Date___________________________________________________________

The raincoat label stitched on all four sides on the left facing (prior to assembly) ½ inch to ¾ inch from the back raw edge, centered between the second and third buttonholes. The pouch label shall be stitched on all four sides to outside central flaps with top of label approximately 31/4 inches from point.

3.4. Design. The raincoat shall be a five button, fly front, sleeveless and pocketless garment made with a Cape, sword slit, stand and fall collar, and a detachable collar tab.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide the proper allowance for all seams, will be furnished by the contracting officer. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and arc to be used as a guide for cutting the suppliers working patterns. The working pattern shall be Identical to the standard pattern.

3.6. Construction. The raincoats shall be made in accordance with good quality commercial practice.

3.6.1. Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams and stitching shall be uniform throughout the raincoat. Edge and raise stitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edge and the gage of double stitching shall be 3/16 inch.

3.6.2. Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught its other seams or stitching, shall be securely tacked or backstitched not less than' 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch, Skipped stitches or thread breaks on stitch type 401 may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

3.6.3. Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table I.

3.6.4. Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet end taper bar type worked over a number 8 gimp, cut to fit respective button and correctly positioned with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the ends securely tacked.

3.7. Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in table 1 providing that the seam sand stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a government furnished shaper pattern, is forwarded, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.8. Manufacturing operations requirements. The item shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence in table operations.

3.9. Shade and size marking. The components of the raincoat shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

3.10.

a. Metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.11. Sealing of seams and stitching. All joining seams shall be sealed on the inside with brush coats of the seam sealant specified in 3 .2.8. The sealant shall be brushed on and worked in such a manner as to completely wet and cover the stitching and needle holes and worked under any turned or raw edges of the seams. The seams shall be sealed with a sufficient number of coats of seam sealant end after treated with silicone, so that it meets the seam hydrostatic and blocking requirements specified in 3.8.

Seams of the carrying pouch need not be sealed.

3.10.1 The heat and pressure applied tape sealing method may also be used to seal seams as long as all required seam hydrostatic and blocking requirements are still met.

3.12. Sealed seam area performance requirements.

3.11.1. Hydrostatic resistance. The sealed seams and the immediate adjacent area shall be subjected to the hydrostatic test specified in table IV. Failure of the sealed seam area shall be evidenced by the appearance of water at three different places within the 4 ½ inch diameter test area. Before testing, the test area shall be flexed as specified in table 4.4.1 and shall show, no peeling, whitening, or 1ifting of the sealant.

3.11.2. Blocking. The sealed seam shall block no more than Scale Rating No. 3 when tested as specified in table IV.

3.12. Finishing measurements. Measurements of the finished raincoats shall be as shown in the tables II and 111 respectively. The measurement of the pouch shall conform to the requirements on table I operation I8.h.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished raincoat and pouch shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

NO.

Table 1

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

STITCH TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

PER INCH

THREAD

1.

Cut Raincoat:

SSe-2(a)

7-9

a. The uncoated side of the material shall be the outside of the raincoat

b. The raincoat shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns furnished which show size and marking for proper assembly of all parts

c. Cut all parts out of one piece of material except the under collar, the under collar stand, fly facings, reinforcement for sword slit, binding at armholes, and hanger loop which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the raincoat.

d. Mark or ticket all component parts of the basic material to ensure a uniform a uniform shade, size and proper assembly except those cut from ends

2.

Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operation as to assure that material defects and damages as specified in

4.3.2.1 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

3.

Make collar tab.

a. Position interlining between plies of tab and stitch around all edges lacing and opening at the bottom

b. Tum tab, force out corners, fold under open edge and stitch around all

56-66 per

purling may finish on either side.

bar

Table 1

SEAM AND

STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES

PER INCH

SSe-2(b)

50/3

a. Position interlining next to undercollar. Position undercollar to top collar and stitch across top and down sides

f. Turn down collar stand and edge stitch

SSe-2(b)

b. Stitch facing to front, turn to inside and stitch along front and across lapel

SSe-2(b)

7-9

56-66 per buttonhole

SEAM AND STITCHING TYPE

STITCHES PER INCH

LOOPER

SSa-1

a. Position sword slit facing on outside of left front as indicated on pattern, and place two rows of stitching 1/2 inch apart across the center.

b. Slash facing in center of lines of stitching, tongue notch ends, tum facing to the inside and with all raw edges turned in double stitch around

8.

Join center backs of capes.

LSc-2

7-9

Join shoulders in the same manner as the side seams with the back

Position binding around armhole openings, tum in raw edges and edge stitch.

BSc-1

7-9

a. Prior to closing, a 3" x 1-1/4" tab is to be set 3-1/2" from the bottom of the inside left front facing so as not to be visible when closed. Tab is to

right front facing is to have a matching button or velcro tab placed to achieve a smooth even closure.

b. Stitch interlining to front edge of facing

with stitching continued vertically to lapel step.

d. Tum in back edges of facing and edge stitch.

EFb-1

LOOPER

EFb-1

a. Tum in bottom of coat 5/8 .:!: 1/16 inch and with raw edges turned in stitch across button.

b. Tum bottom of cape 3/8 .:!: 1/8 inch and with the raw edges turned in

a. Position cape to neck edge, as indicated on pattern and stitch with the ends of stitching continued to vertical line of stitching on lapels.

EFp-1

7-9

50/3

b. Position undercollar to neck edge and stitch the full length catching

c. Tum collar to inside, turn in raw edges and stitch the full length

1/16 to 118 inch fron edges.

b. Position loop to center of top collar stand (1/4 inch of center tolerance)

LSd-1 28 per bartack width and 3 inches in length.

50/3

50/3

All joining seams on the raincoat (but not the pouch) shall be sealed as specified in 3.10.

Table 1

LOOPER

18.

Car!J!ing l!Ouch.

EFa-1

a. Cut strips in accordance with pattern and seam together with a double needle machine of 1/4 inch gauge 3/8 innc from edges.

b. Cut pouch from one piece of the coated cloth in accordance with the pattern.

c. Hem the bottom.

d. Form flap by folding top ends face to face to form triangle and seam from base to apex.

e. Turn sewn triangle right side out towards inside and seam across the base of the flap.

f. Fold bottom edge up to bottom of flap face and seam along edges 1/4 to 5/16 inch catching the strap in the seams at locations shown on patterns

g. Attach fastener tape hook and pile (approximately 1-1/4 inches in length) to pouch above point shown on pattern.

h. The finished dimensions of the pouch shall be 9-1/2 ± 1/2 inch deep by 12 ± 1/2 inch wide

i. Pouch to contain a readily visible size label. Size to be marked on label as follows (sample):

See 3.3.9.1

EFa-1

7-9

7-9

Table II Finished measurements of raincoat

Sizes and measurements - Raincoats shall be made in various sizes and lengths listed below. All measurements are in inches

Size A Chest B Sweep

Tolerance

+ 1/2

+ 1/2

+ 1/2

+ 1/2

+ 1/2

+ 1/2

A. Chest: Twice the measurement taken across width of raincoat at base of armhole with raincoat fully buttoned, back flat and smooth.

B. Sweep: Twice the measurement taken at bottom of raincoat in a straight line from side to side with fly front buttoned.

C. Grading: Standard cocial grading shall be used to obtain measurements for all other sizes.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this purchase description where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1. Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor's overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as a part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however this does not authorize submission of own defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the government to accept defective material.

4.1.2. Certificates of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2. Certification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4)

4.3. First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1 and 6.2), it shall be examined for the applicable end item visual and dimensional defects in accordance with the sampling and inspection provisions of MIL-STD- 1492.

4.4. Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105.

4.4.1. Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, above, components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, purchase order descriptions, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase documents. In addition to the quality assurance provisions of the subsidiary specifications and purchase descriptions, inspection shall be performed on the components listed below and acceptance shall be based on the supplier’s certificate of compliance with the requirements specified for these components.

Component Requirement reference

Interlining Seam sealant

3.2.2 3.2.8

4.4.2. Inspection of the end item. The end item shall be examined in accordance with the classification of defects listed in 4.3.2.1, 4.3.2.2, and 4.3.2.3. at the inspection levels and AQLs set forth in 4.3.2.4. The lot size shall be in units of one raincoat and one pouch.

NOTE: One (1) Major constitutes a failure, and Three (3) Minor defects equals one (1) Major which constitutes a failure.

4.4.2.2. Dimensional examination or raincoat and pouch. The raincoat and pouch shall be examined for dimensional defects. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect.

4.4.2.3 Examination of preparation for delivery requirements. An examination shall be made to determine that the packaging, packing, and marking complies with the list below. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery except that it need not be closed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined on shipping containers fully prepared for delivery. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. .

4.4.2.4 Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQLs), The Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels, expressed in defects per hundred units shall be as follows:

4.4.3. Testing of the end item. The end item shall be tested as specified in table IV. All requirements shall be applicable to the individual unit. The sample unit for testing shal1 be one completely fabricated raincoat (less carrying pouch). All tests on the end item are nondestructive. The inspection level shall be S-2 and the acceptable quality level (AQL) for each characteristic to be expressed in units of one raincoat.

TABLES IV, Instructions for testing

4.5. Test methods.

4.5.1 Hydrostatic resistance. The hydrostatic resistance of the sealed seem areas of the raincoat shaIl be determined in accordance with Method 5514 of FED-STD-191 except for the following: The sealed seam area of the fabricated raincoat, sample unit, shall be tested without cutting or otherwise damaging the raincoat. the seam shall be flexed 10 times in the following manner. The raincoat sealed seam shall be grasped using the thumb and fingers of each hand in such a manner that the thumbs are parallel to each other and approximately 1/2 inch beyond (outside) the edges of the sealant. With the seams held firmly in the above manner, the thumbs shall be brought together so cloth and sealant are is contact. The sealed area shall be flexed vigorously 10 times with the cloth and sealant in contact with itself throughout test. The flexing action shall be such that when fully flexed in either direction there shall be a minimum of two inches between each thumb nail when the flexed area is fully extended with the test area in contact with itself' at all times. The test area shall be visually examined for the characteristics indicated in 3.11.1 prior to conducting the hydrostatic test. The hydrostatic test shall be made with the sealed seam in the center of the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area with the uncoated side of the seam in contact with the water. The hydrostatic head shall be raised to 25 on each sealed seam (three on the cape and two on the coat) for a total of five. The five determinations shall be reported separately as pass or fail . No more than one of the five areas tested shall show 1 leakage in less than 10 minutes. A failure of the raincoat is defined as a hydrostatic failure in two or more of the five determinations.

4.5.2. Blocking resistance. Method 5872 of FED-STD-191 shall be followed except that the sample unit shall be one completely fabricated raincoat and that the test specimen shall be prepared by folding the raincoat so that two inner sealed seam surfaces are superimposed and are in the center of the glass plates.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Packaging. Packaging shell be level A or Commercial, as specified (see 6.2).

5.1.1.1 Level A. Each raincoat shall be neatly folded and inserted in the pouch. The flap of the pouch shall be fastened.

5.1.2. Commercial. Raincoats shall be preserved in accordance with AST'M D 3951.

5.2. Packing. Packaging shall be level B or Commercial, as specified (see 6.2).

5.2.1. Level B packing. Twelve raincoats, packaged as specified, shall be packed in a box conforming to RSC-L, grade 275 of PPP-B-636. Contents shall be covered on top and bottom of box with a sheet of 30 pound minimum basis weight bait paper conforming to A-A-203. Inside dimensions of the box shall be approximately 19 3/4 inches in length, 15 ¾ inches in width and 9 inches in depth. Each box shall be closed in accordance with method II as specified in the appendix of PPP-B-636.

5.5.5. Commercial packing. Raincoats, packed as specified, shall be packed in accordance with ASTM D 3951.

5.3 Palletization. Raincoats, packed as specified, shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with load type la of MIL-STD-147. Each prepared load shall be bonded with straps in accordance with bonding means C and D or film bonding means F or G. Pallet pattern shall be number 95 in accordance with the appendix of MIL-STD- 147.

5.4. Marking. Marking of unit packs, shipping containers and unit loads shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1. Intended use. The raincoat is for wear by cadets of the United States Military Academy.

6.2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description

b. Type, size, and length required (see 1.2)

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1.1. and 2.2.).

d. When the first article is required.

e. Levels of preservation and packing (see 5.1., and 5.2.).

f. When palletization is required (see 5.3.).

6.3. Standard samples. For Access to samples of the shirt and shade samples address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.4. First article. When a first article is required, it shall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR. 52.209. The first article should be a production sample. The contracting officer should also specify the appropriate type of first article sad the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should also include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.5. Equal item.

the contracting officer for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

7. BARCODING

7.1. Each item shall be barcoded in accordance with the following characteristics:

a. 3 of 9 format.

b. Be affixed to each item so that it can be read without opening the package.

c. Be easily removed by the customer.

d. Remain intact while warehoused.

e. Size of label should be large enough to read, but not massive. Size should be relative to size of item. Estimated size: 2 1/2." X 3 1/2".

f. Label shall be obviously displayed on each shipping carton.

g. Each barcode shall contain the following: Barcode (with start & stop characters of *) Stock number Description Size (if applicable)

h. Sample label format is as shown below.

i. Label shall be submitted as part of first article submission. SAMPLE BARCODE LABEL:

840501Y500652 RAINCOAT W/POUCH

SIZE: 40 -.54

7.2 NOTE; Stock Number for Cover. Cap Rain is 840501Y500I23

7.3 NOTE; Stock Number for Pouch (separate from Raincoats w/Pouch) is 846001Y500156 7.4

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION FOR

RAINCOAT, CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

* This deviation replaces sections, 1.2. Classification schedule of sizes, 3.3.2. Interlining 3.3.7. Fastener tape, nylon, 3.5. Patterns, and Finished measurements on raincoats of PD#349B (16 OCT 98).

1.2. Classification. Add to the existing schedule of sizes, sizes 54 and 56.

3.3.2. Interlining. The interlining for the cape, coat front and collar shall have a permanent resin finish and meet the following physical requirements:

Weight - ounces per square yard, 4.0 maximum.

Texture -- threads per inch (minimum), warp 48, filling 28.

Yarn composition - 51% cotton, 49% rayon or 50% polyester, 50% rayon.

3.3.7. Fastener tape, nylon. The nylon tape fastener for the carrying pouch and cape tab shall be of the same width either 5/8, 3/4 or 1 inch wide, conforming to Type I, Class 1 of CID-A-A-55I26. The color shall match the basic cloth.

3.5. Patterns. The contracting officer will furnish standard USMA Patterns on either electronic form on 3.5 inch disk using Gerber AccuMark Software version 9 or higher or Gerber PDS2000 Software version 2.02 or higher in paper form printed on standard media 72-inch plotter paper. Either form of USMA Patterns will provide proper allowance for all seams. The USMA Standard Patterns shall not be altered in any way and are a guide for cutting the suppliers working patterns. The working pattern shall be identical to the standard pattern. This deviation also serves as notice that the USMA Patterns for Raincoat, Cadet, Coated Fabric (USMA) and Pouch have been revised as of l February, 2002 and use of previous patterns or pattern files is unacceptable.

TABLE II. Replace table II with attached TABLE II-a. TABLE III. Replace table III with attached TABLE Ill-a.

1 February 2002

TABLE II-a, Finished measurements of raincoat and cape

Sizes and measurements--Raincoats shall' be made in various sizes. All measurements are in inches.

A. Chest: Twice the measurement taken across width of raincoat 1" below t h e base of the armhole with the raincoat fully buttoned, back flat and smoothed.

B. Raincoat Sweep: Twice the measurement taken along the finished bottom edge of the raincoat from side to side with fly front buttoned and front edges overlapping to the front facing seam along the raincoat bottom edge.

C. Rain-cape Sweep: Twice the measurement taken along the finished bottom edge of the rain-cape from side to side with rain-cape buttoned and front edges of rain-cape overlapping to the rain-cape facing seam along the rain- cape bottom edge.

D. Grading: Standard commercial grading shall be used per Gerber AccuMark version 9 or higher pattern files and size code.

E. Length Grading: Varying raincoat lengths shall be accomplished through raincoat length alteration table rules, provided by the government, in accordance with Gerber AccuMark users guide for version 9 or higher.

F.

TABLE III-a.

Finished back length measurements of rain-cape

Sizes and measurements Rain-capes shall be made in varying lengths in direct correlation to the raincoat length. All measurements are in inches.

A, Rain-cape Back Length: The measurement taken from under collar seam at and along the center back cape seam to the finished bottom edge of the rain-cape, B. Length Grading: Varying rain-cape lengths shall be accomplished through raincoat length alteration table rules, provided by the government, in accordance with Gerber AccuMark users guide for version 9 or higher.

4 September 2002

PURCH4SE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION FOR

RAINCOAT. CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

This deviation addresses changes, or additions to or of sections, 3.3.4. Gimp, 3.3.5. Buttons, 3.3.5.1. Hooks.& Eves, and to TABLE I Manufacturing Operations Requirement number 4, Make collar; and number 6, Make and attach left flv and facing on raincoats of PD# 349B (16 OCT 98).

3.3.4, Gimp. Change gimp description to read, "size #8, color to match coated cloth".

3.3.5. Buttons, Buttons shall conform to type II Class D of V-B-871 on the following sizes; Style 15, Ligne 18 -- stay buttons Style 21/21, Ligne 30 -- Collar, Collar Tab and Collar Tab Storage Buttons. Style 20/21, Ligne 40 - Front Closure Buttons.

3.3.5.1. Hook & Eyes. Hook and Eye for collar closure shall be black in finish and have an eye no wider than 1/2 inch and no narrower than 3/8 inch.

TABLE I. Manufacturing Operations Requirements - Number 4. Make Collar and Number 6, Make and attach left fIy and facing.

Add step/operation "g" to both Number 4 and Number 6 Operations as follows.

Inch

or 301

per Hook or Eye

Add: g. Attach Hook and Eye for collar closure to the inside of the collar such that the eyelet's of, both the hook and eye are not visible from the outside of the garment. Sewing stitches may be made visible to the outside of the garment.

Add; g._ Sew two (2) ligne 30 buttons to store the Collar Tab between 3rd and 4 th buttonhole positions on inside of Left Facing as indicated on patterns.

or 301

per button

26 September 2002

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION

FOR

RAINCOAT, CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

This deviation addresses changes, or additions to or of sections, 3.3.1. Coated Cloth, on raincoats of PD#349B (16 OCT 98). 3.3.1. Coated_Cloth. Change text to read:

"The coated cloth used to make the raincoat and pouch shall be: Scattesfield Fabrics Inc., Kenyon industries or style equivalent to

· Cadet Gray (29102)

· 1.8 oz., 70 Denier, 34 Filament

· MTD Dull Type 66, Nylon Taffeta

· 1.1 ox Coating or Pigmented Urethane."

4 December 2012

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION FOR

RAINCOAT, CADET, COATED FABRIC (USMA) AND POUCH

This deviation addresses changes, or deletions of the Cap Covers, 22 June 1992, from PD#349B (16 OCT 98).

The Cover, Caps requirement is no longer required. The contractor/vendor shall disregard the requirement for the Cover Cap.

Michael A. Saathoff Chief, Supply/Supply Management Officer West Point, DOL

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION

FOR

June 9, 2003

This deviation addresses the following changes or deletions to USMA patters for the Cadet Raincoat are approved and adopted.

1. Add 3" or more in. length to the Fly ensure the pieces are long enough to cover the opening for the button holes

2. Narrow Fly pieces to keep the fly from extending past the edge of the facing when sewn.

3. Add ½” to length to Pouch.

4. Square off Collar corners fur easier sewing, while the interlining corners remain rounded to eliminate bulk when the collars are sewn.

5. Use Right side of cape for digitizing and mirror for the left as the left and right sides are different for many sizes, but not all patterns.

6. Adjust Cape facing up or down to match up with each size of cape.

7. Narrow Cape facing interlining to keep the edge from extending past the facing when sewn.

8. Shorten Cape facing interlining to ½ “to eliminate bulk in the hem.

9. Narrow Front facing interlining to keep the edge from extending past the facing when sewn. ,

10. Adjust front facing and interlining for sizes 30 and 32 to match smaller collar edge on right and left fronts of coat.

11. Adjust shoulder seams on Cape fronts and backs on most sizes to make the front and back more compatible.

12. Remove all cape notches to improve the joining operation.

13. Use interlining in the collar, collar stay, and collar tab.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION PD# 349B (16 OCT 98) DEVIATION

FOR

This deviation is to address new raincoats sizes.

RAINCOAT NEW SIZES NOVEMBER 14, 2006

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