Collars_Cuffs_Specs.pdf

6 April 2015

USMA PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

ADDENDUM

CLOTH, BROADCLOTH, COTTON MERCERIZED, BLEACHED, WHITE

FOR CADET WHITE CUFFS AND COLLARS

Cadet Services Division of the Directorate of Logistics of the United States Military Academy has authorized the use of this purchase description in preference to CCC-C437, CCC-C437-A, CCC-C437-B, CCC-C437-C, CCC-437-D and A-A-50160. This copy has been revised 4 January 2008 in format only.

252 CLASSIFICATION

252.247 Types and classes. The cloth shall be what was Type II, Class 1 as appeared in previous Specifications and Commercial Item Descriptions and shall be referred to as such for the purposes of this purchase description.

Type II - 3.2 ounces per square yard

Class 1 - Bleached

253 SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

253.247 General. The cloth shall be a plain weave using single or ply cotton yarns. The color shall be bleached white as specified. The finished cloth shall be singed, de-sized, and mercerized. The width shall be 47 inches and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage when fly-shuttle looms or shuttleless looms with tuck-in selvages are used. For all other shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).

253.248 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in table I.

TABLE I. Physical Requirements Weight per Yarns per inch Breaking strength Square Yard minimum (min) Pounds

Type Yarn (min.) ounces Warp Filling Warp Filling Weave

II Combed 3.2 140 58 70 25 Plain

253.249 Bleached cloth (Class 1). White is the specified color. The cloth shall be chemically bleached white and may be supplemented with optical brighteners, which fluoresce to the blue region. The degree of whiteness shall match the USMA standard sample.

253.250 Shrinkage. The cloth shall be preshrunk to a residual shrinkage of not more than

1.0 percent in either direction of the warp or of the filling after 20 industrial launderings for cotton broad cloth using bleach.

253.251 Put-up. The cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths of not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up in rolls as specified in 4.1. Weighing approximately 125 pounds each.

253.252 Marking. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on end of the piece.

254 QUALITY ASSURANCE

254.247 Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the specifications, standards and quality assurance practices, and is the same as the product offered for sale in commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract.

255 PACKAGING

255.247 Packaging. The cloth shall be on a convolute or spiral-wound chipboard tube.

The tube shall have a smooth finish that will prevent the fibers of the chipboard from transferring to the cloth. Each roll of cloth, put-up as specified, shall be wrapped with protective covering of 60-pound minimum basis weight kraft paper, plastic or other suitable covering to protect the roll from contact with dirt, dust, water and oil.

Evaluation Criteria Cuffs & Collars, Cadet (PD# 368)

Purpose: To establish the criteria that the Cuff & Collar sample(s) shall be evaluated against to determine the acceptability of the sample to the Government.

1. The color of the sample shall be visually inspected for consistency at the seams. The material that meets at the seams shall not have a noticeable variance in color. When there is a noticeable difference in color this will be a major defect.

2. The seams will be checked for consistency and quality. The seams shall not have breaks and the stitching shall be smooth. It shall be considered a major defect if there are two or more breaks in the stitching or any excessive rough areas due to excessive overlapping stitches.

3. The Cuff & Collar samples shall be visually inspected to check for any;

a) Rips One or more shall be a major defect

b) Tears One or more shall be a major defect

c) Frays Three or more shall be a major defect

d) Stains;

One or more large enough to be readily noticed shall be considered a major defect. If only a natural speckle, eight shall be a minor defect.

4. The sample shall include the Instruction label referenced in 3.2.4. The label shall be checked for all specified requirements, size and printed content. Failure to provide the label or include all requirements listed shall constitute a major defect and result in sample to be determined unacceptable to the Government.

5. The sample shall be checked for the stamp/label required in 3.2.5. Omitting the stamp/label on the Cuff or Collar shall be a major defect.

6. The samples shall be checked for excessive buckling. The sample shall lay essentially flat when placed on a flat surface. If buckling results in any side or end of the Cuff sample to raise more than 3/8 of an inch in the air or the Collar to raise more than ½ inch in the air the sample shall have a major defect.

7. Compliance with 3.7.1 shall be checked, non compliance shall be a major defect.

8. Size compliance with the requirements in Table III for both the Collar and Cuff shall be checked, deviation or noncompliance shall be considered a major defect.

9. The Government shall apply snaps to the Cuff sample and install into the appropriate sized coat to check for fit. Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect. The Government will install a collar into an appropriate size coat.

Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect.

10. Section 4 applies and where applicable ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, "Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes applies.

Defects One Major Defect in the sample will fail the sample and it shall be considered unacceptable to the Government.

Two Minor Defects in the sample will fail the sample and it shall be considered unacceptable to the Government.