PD_C0150_Revisions.pdf

AMSAS-OMI-W 17 November 2014

REVISIONS /ADDITIONS TO:

MOCK ELASTIQUE POLYESTER WOOL, 12.5 OZ. CADET GRAY 372

NATICK PURCHASE DESCRIPTION #370A (8 APRIL 1974)

This change supersedes all previous revisions to PD# 370A (8 April 1974)

Section 2. Applicable Documents. - 2.1. The documents listed are based on most current information available or superseded industry equivalent standards of ASTM or AATCC. US Army

Natick RD&E Enter, Kansas Street, Natick MA may be contacted for most current publications.

Section 3.3 Color. - The color of the cloth shall be Cadet Gray 372 and shall match the USMA Standard

Color Sample. The color shall be obtained by stock dyeing or top dyeing. The USMA

Standard Color Sample is available from The Cadet Uniform Factory USMA.

Section 3.3.2. Matching. – The color of the finished cloth shall match the color of the USMA Standard

Color Sample under natural (north shy) daylight or artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 o Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the USMA Standard

Color Sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 o Kelvin.

Section 3.6. Shrinkage in Sponging. – The finished cloth shall be cold water sponged. The finished cloth shall show no greater shrinkage than 2.5 percent in the warp and 1.5 percent in the filling when tested as specified in 4.3. The contractor shall invoice deliveries by Net Linear

Yardage. Net Linear Yardage is the number of linear yards of finished cloth after cold sponging and all finishing processes are complete.

Section 3.8. Length and put-up. – Additional information as follows:

The government prefers finished cloth be put up on rolls of between 85 and 100 yards. No roll that contains a piece of finished cloth less than 50 continuous yards in length shall be accepted at full offered price per yard. The contractor shall specify the percentage of discount off the price per yard for pieces of cloth less measuring than 50 continuous yards in length. Failure to do so may be cause for rejection of bid. Pieces less than 25 yards in continuous length and rolls containing more than one continuous piece shall not be accepted.

Two or more pieces joined together regardless of length will not be accepted. The contractor shall complete Table 1 as part of their bid submission. Failure to do so may be cause for rejection of the bid.

Table 1.

Net Length of Piece Maximum % of total yardage which can be accepted

Indicate Discount per yard

25 - 37 /8 yd 1 %

38 – 49 /8 yd 10 %

Table II of PD 370 A – Component Tests. – The test method for Characteristic “Denier” will be STM-D-

1907.

AMSAS-OMI-W 17 November 2014

Section 5. Preparation for Delivery. – Revise PD 370A Section 5 in total with:

Section 5.1. Packaging - Each piece of cloth shall be rolled onto a sufficiently sturdy and smooth commercial cardboard tube as to not crush in storage or shipping of the cloth. Exterior end of each roll shall be secured within the package as not to unroll or unfurl. Each roll shall be enclosed in a commercial clear tubular bag of polyethylene film or other suitable clear material to protect the cloth from soiling and degradation in shipping and storage. Bags shall be closed with mechanical ties (twist-ties or cable ties) of suitable weight to secure the closure of the bag through shipping and storage.

Section 5.2. Marking. - Each roll shall have a Piece Ticket affixed to a selvage at the external end of the roll with a 5-ply minimum cotton string or a plastic tag hanger. The Piece Ticket shall have a reinforced eyelet and shall be legibly printed, using water insoluble ink, with the Cloth

Description “C0150” and the net (sponged) linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll.

The Piece ticket shall be affixed to the bag closure devise.

Section 5.2.1.Identification Tag. - Each clear tubular bag shall be marked with an Identification Tag. The

Identification Tag shall indicate the Contractor Name, Contractor address, Contract Number, Cloth Contents, the Cloth Description “C0150”, and the Net (sponged) Linear Yardage of cloth contained therein. Contractor may choose to include on the Identification Tag additional information such as a “piece number”, bar codes, or other identification nomenclature for their purposes. Identification Tags shall have minimum dimensions of 2.5 inches x 4 inches and shall be completely legible as affixed to the bag. The Identification

Tag shall be affixed to the bag approximately 1 inch in from the selvage edge closest to the end of the bag, which is closed after insertion of the roll. (See Figure 1 of this revision, not drawn to scale).

Figure 1.

Piece Tag

Section 5.3. Delivery Address. – The contractor shall address all shipments of finished cloth to:

USMA LSSO Logistics Warehouse

917 Washington Road

West Point, NY 10996.

Table III of PD 370 A. Test Methods. – Only Test Method changes are noted below. All other

Characteristic tests remain the same.

Characteristic Test Method

Fiber percentage AATC #20A

Color Fastness:

Delete “Wet dry cleaning” Delete “5622”

Crocking AATCC # 8

Perspiration AATCC # 15

Light AATCC #16 Option A

Identification Tag

C l l l

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Weight ASTM # 3776 Option C

Yarns per Inch:

“Warp” ASTM 3775

Filling ASTM 3775

Breaking Strength

Warp ASTM 5034

Filling ASTM 5034

Pilling ASTM3511 3/

Ph AATCC # 81

Shrinkage

Warp AATCC # 99 Paragraph #7

Filling AATCC # 99 Paragraph #7

Selvage Thickness ASTM # 1777

Footnote 3/: Delete method 5320 and replace with ASTM 3511.

Section 6.1. - Intended Use – Finished Mock Elastique cloth will be used to manufacture USMA Cadet

Mock Elastique Trousers and Skirts worn by the United States Corps of Cadets attending the

United States Military Academy. Trousers and skirts made from this cloth are worn during more temperate seasons in lieu of trousers made from 19 oz., 100% worsted wool Cadet

Gray Elastique cloth. The 19 oz., 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray cloth is the sole shell-cloth used for Cadet Dress Uniform coats. The Mock Elastique cloth is intended to mimic or “mock” the appearance of the 19 oz Cadet Gray 100% worsted wool Elastique cloth so that garments will match both these cloths. The USMA Standard Color Sample therefore is

19 oz 100% worsted wool Cadet Gray Elastique cloth.

Section 6.3 – Successful contractor will be furnished by the contracting officer or designated representative a swatch of the USMA Standard Color Sample no less than 4” in warp and 4” weft directions upon Contract Award.

Section 7. Pre-Production Sample. - The contractor shall provide a five (5) yard finished, sponged pre-production sample to:

USMA, Cadet Uniform Factory

687 Hardee Place

West Point, NY

10996.

The pre-production sample will be tested for physical characteristics in this purchase description.