Specifications .docx
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- CUFFS & COLLARS WEST POINT Federal contract opportunity
- Solicitation number
- W911SD21R0063
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NATICK
LABORATORIES
PURCHASE
DESCRIPTION
NUMBER
DAT
Aug
STOCK
NUMBER
N A M E F I T E M
UN
IT
COLLAR
AND
CUFFS,
CADET
(U.S.M.A.)
Se t
SCOPE
Scope
This purchase description covers a fused collar and cuff set.
Classification.··
The collar and cuffs are one type in the following sizes (see
6.2):
Schedule of sizes Collar 11-1/2 15-1/2 17-1/2 10-1/2 12-1/
16-1/2 18-1/2
APPLICATION
DOCUMENTS
The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation or bi d rr reques t fo r p r o p os a l fon n a par t o f thi s purchas e descriptio n t o the extent s pecified herein.
SPECIFICATIONS
FEDERAL
V-T.,276 Thread, Cotton
CCC-C-437
Cloth, Broadcloth, Cotton, Mercerized
MILITARY
MIL-C-43626
Cloth, Interlining, Acetate and
Cotton
STANDARDS FEDERAL
FED-STD-191
Textile Test
Methods
FED-STD
Stitches, Seams, and
Stitchings
FSC
AMXRE Form 190(R1) 31 January 1964
· , · f
NLABS PD 368
MILITARY
MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129
Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes Marking for Shipment and Storage (Copies of specification, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer).
2.2 Other publications.- The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless a specific issue is identi fied, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply:
National Motor Freight Traffic Association, Inc., Agent National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Associa tions, Inc. Tariff Order Section, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036).
Uniform Classification Committee, Agent Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606).
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 Guide samples.- Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and in formation to the supplier (see 6.3). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern.
3.2 Materials.-
3.2.1 Basic material.- The basic material shall be a bleached, cotton, broad cloth or a bleached cotton print cloth.
3.2.1.1 Broadcloth.- The broadcloth shall conform to type II, class 1 of CCC-C-437.
3.2.1.2 Print cloth." The print cloth shall be a plain weave with a minimum weight of 3.6 ounces per square yard , a minimum of 80 warp and 78 fi ll i ng ·
NIABS PD 368
yarns per inch, a minimum bre ing strength of 48 pounds in the warp direction and 40 pounds in the filling direction, and a shrinkage of not more than 1.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction when tested as specified in 4,2.1. .
| 3.2.2 Interlining laminating cloth.- The interlining, laminating cloth shall conform to MIL-C-43626. | The laminating cloth shall be fused to both |
| plies of the basic material of the collar and cuffs by the application of solvent, heat and pressure (see operation 7). | There shall be no separation of the plies when subjected to five launderings when tested as specified in 4.2.3•• The laminated collar and cuffs shall have a stiffness of 0.320 load-pounds minimum |
and 0.620 load-pounds maximum in the warp and 0.150 load-pounds minimum and
0.350 load-pounds maximum in the filling when tested as specified in 4;2.3. The shade of the laminated collar and cuffs shall be white and shall match the standard sample. Discoloration shall not be greater than that of the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.2.3.
3.2.3 Thread.- The thread for seaming and buttonholes shall be white AH, C.A. 66050, type IA2, ticket no. 60, 2-ply, or IC2, ticket no. 00, 3-ply, con forming to V-T-276.
3.2.4 Instruction label.- An instruction label measuring not less than 2-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches shall be packaged with each box of collars or cuffs. The print ing media shall be black, printed on white paper with capitals 1/8 inch in height and all other type 1/16 inch in height. The label shall contain the following information:
Washing instructions
Slightly soiled:
1. Clean with hand brush, soap and warm water.
2. Rinse under faucet - DO NOT WRING.
3. Dry on towel.
Badly soiled:
1. Wash in warm soapy water.
2. Rinse and dry as above.
3. Iron with moderate iron.
| 3.2.5 Label (identification and size).- The identification-size label shall conform to type IV, class 9. | The inscription, in characters of not less than |
| 10-point in size, shall be "West Point" and the size of the item. | The color fast ness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. |
NI.ABS PD 368
| 3.3 Design.- The collar and cuffs consist of two plies of material fused to gether with an interlining. | The collar is approximately 1-1/4 t 1/16 and the cuffs 3-1/2 t l/8 inches wide. | The length of the top edge of the collar is 1/2 | |
| inch less than the bottom edge. | The ends of the collar are angular and the ends of the cuff are rounded at the bottom edge. | The cuffs have a buttonhole at each end. | The cuffs are attached to the sleeves of a coat by means of snap fasteners, that are added at time of issue. |
3.4 Figure.-Figurelis furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies -aetween this purchase description and the figure, the pur chase description shall control.
3.5 Patterns.- Patterns, shall provide a 3/t6·- o r 1/4 inch for joining the two plies of the collar and cuffs and 3/8 or 1/2 inch for closing the collar and cuffs. See figure for finished dimensions.
3.5.1 List of pattern parts.- The collar and cuffs shall be cut from materials as specified, in accordance with pattern parts indicated, and in the number of cut parts required.
TABLE I.- List of patt rn parts Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts
| Basic cloth (3.2.1) |
| Collar |
| 2 |
| Cuff |
| 4 |
| Interlining cloth |
| Collar |
| 1 |
| (3.2.2) |
| Cuff |
| 2 |
3.6 Construction.-
3. .1 Stitches, seams and stitching.- Stitch, seam and stitch types specified in table II are those covered by FED-STD-751. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching.
3.6.2 Stitches per inch.- The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II.
3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams.- Ends of all stitching, when not caught in other stitching shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.
NLABS PD J68
3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements.- The collar and cuffs shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in table II. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed. Any additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided thread is removed or does not show on the finished collar or cuffs.
3.7.l Marking.- Where marking is specified for insuring a uniform shade and size, any method may be used except:
(a) Corrosive metal fastening devices.
(b) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.
0\ I l
NO.
MANU,ACTUAINC OPIAATIONS AEQUIREffl!tlTS
TABL! II
I STITCH
TYPE
I KAM ANO STITCHES THREAD i I
| )STITCHINI | PEA | NEEDLE | BOBBIN or l |
| TYPE | INCH | LOOPER | t |
I ),f,.
lU Cutting.- ► t C )Cut the collar and cuffs in strict accordance with pat• C terns which show shape, directional lines and place ment for buttonholes.
,. I .,.I, I _l i )I t
2.I lteplacemetn of damaged parts.-...
C'are shall be exercised during the spreading and manu facturing operations to assure that material defects and damages, as classified in 4.2.2.l are excluded and replaced with nonGdefective and properly matched mate• rial.
,r .I, 3.1 rkis.- Mark, ticket or bundle all parts to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the set.
I ll )I 1 r r
I I I· I
II
4.1 Ma_lc collar and c Jfs.- · -
a. With the basic material face to face stitch the twc plies of basic material and the interlining together- along top and side edges of both collar, and cuffs. The ply of basic material that is next to the interlin• ing shall be the outside of the collar and cuffs.
(The seam allowance will be next to the underside when finished).
b. Turn collar and cuffs to the right side and edge stitchthe top and side edges of collar and bottom and side edges of cuffs 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. The underside shall not be exposed along the edge on the outside of finished collar or cuffs.
AMXRE Form 423 10 February 1965 sse-2(a) sse-2(b)
8-14
8-14
60-2 or 00-3 or 00-3
00-3
60°2
00-3
, ,I r f
NO.
fflANUF'ACTURIH OPaAATIONI
REOUIRENIIITS
TABLE
II
STITCH
TYPE
SEAM
AND
STITCHN TYPE
iTITCNES
PEA
INCN
THREAD
NEEDLE
BOBBIHor
LOOPER
c Turn in t he seam allowances at t he bottom of the collar and t op of t he cuffs and stitch
1/16 to
1/8 inch from t he edge.
Make bu tton holes on cuffs.a SSc- 8- 60°2 60°2 or 00<>3 or 00°3 s.
Mak e a
5/ Sainc h c u t e ngt h buttonhole tacke d a t both ends a t t he end o f each cuff.
The buttonhole shall be pa r al lel to and lal /4 i
1/16 inch from the bottom edge of cuff
(side with the curved ends), and the end of t he cut shall be
5/8
I:.
1/16 inch from side edge of cuff.
If a purl t ype buttonhole is used the purling s ha ll be on the underside of the cuff.
The buttonholes may be made afte r t he fusing operation
(operation
7).
Clea n colla r an d cuffs 60°2 or
60°2 or 36-40 per bu tton holE 6.
C lea n a ll thread ends and remove loose threads, shade tick e ts spots and stains.
7.
Fus e col l ar s an d cuffs.a We t fuse on an acetone soaked press and set on a dry press (see
3.2.2).
8.
Labelin
(identification and size).a a
Pos i t i o n th e markin g t o th e righ t o f cente r o n the und ers ide of the collar with the top of the lettering towar d t h e top of the collar.
b.
Cente t he marking on the underside of each cuff with t h e to p of t he lettering toward the bottom of the cuff
(side with curved ends).
A one inch off cente r tole r anc e shal l b e acceptable.
)I .
L I )l i
AMXRE Form .-23 10 February 1965
,I, I ):t-il
NLABS PD 368
3.8 Finished measurements.- The finished measurements shall conform to all measurements shown in table III.
TABLE III - Finished measurements in inches Size - Collar tolerance
| 15 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 16 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 17 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 18 |
| 18-1/2 |
| I |
| Length 1/ | |
| 15-1/8 | |
| 15-5/8 | |
| 16-1/8 | |
| 16-5/8 | |
| 17-1/8 | |
| 17-5/8 | |
| 18-1/8 | |
| 18-5/8 | |
| 1/8 | 0 |
| Width | 2:_/ |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1-1/4 | |
| 1/16 | 1/16 |
Size - Cuffs tolerance
| 10 | |
| 10-1/2 | |
| 11 | |
| 11-1/2 | 12 |
| 12-1/2 | |
| I |
| Length J/ | |
| 10-1/4 | |
| 10-3/4 | |
| 11-1/4 | |
| 11-3/4 | 12-1/4 |
| 12-3/4 | |
| 0 | 1/4 |
| Width 1/ | |
| 3-1/2 | |
| 3-1/2 | |
| 3-1/2 | |
| 3-1/2 | 3-1/2 |
| 3-1/2 | |
| 1/8 | 1/8 |
| l/ | Mea5ure along top edge (shorter length) of collar. |
| ll | Measure across width at center. |
JI Measure along the length of each cuff with the measuring tape aligned with the buttonholes.
3.9 Workmanship.- The finished colla and cuff set shall conform to the quality of the product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality level.
4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS
4ol Responsibility for inspection.- Unless otherwise specified in the contract er purchase order the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspec tion requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the con tract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspec tions set forth in this purchase description where such inspections are deemed nec essary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.
4.2 ality conforrnanee inspection sampling.- Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance wich MIL-STD-105,except where otherwise indicated herein aftet.
NI.ABS PD 368
| 4.2.1 Component and material inspection.- In accordance with 4.1 above, compon ents and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the require• ments of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this Purchase Description or applicable purchase documents. | In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, testing shall be performed on the components listed in table IV for characteristics notedo | Wherever applicable tests shall be conducted in accordance with methods pre• scribed in FED•STD-191. | |
| 4.2.1.1 Quality conformance inspection sampling.- Unless otherwise specified in subsidiary specifications, sampling for.testing shall be in accordance with table below. | The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. | The sample unit for testing the print cloth (see 3.2.1.2) shall be 2•1/4 yards full width. | The lot size shall be expressed in yards. All test reports shall contain the individual values used in expressing the final result. |
| Lot size | Sample size |
800 or less 801 to 22,000 inclusive 22,001 and up Component Print cloth Characteristic Material identification refe1ence 3.2.1.2 Test
Method Weight
(ounces/sq.
yd.)
3.2.1.2 Yarns per
inch Warp Filling 3.2.1.2 Breaking strength
(pounds) Warp Filling 3.2.1.2 Shrinkage
(percent) -Warp 3.2.1.2 Weave 3.2.1.2 Visual )TABLE IV.- Test methods llequirement
-Filling
!/ A certificate of compliance may be substituted for this requirement.
4.2.2 Examination of end item.- The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in 4.2.2.1. The sample unit shall be one collar and cuff set.
4.2.2.l Defects - one class.- Examine Defect
Buttonholes (cuffs)
Cleanness
Components and assembly Cutting
Material defects and damages
Pressing and fusing
Seams and stitching
One or more omitted (or added).
Stitching not securely caught in fabric plies, caus ing stitches- to pull away from fabric.
One or more not tacked at both ends.
One or more out of parallel alignment by more than 1/16 inch.
One or more less than 1-3/16 or more than 1-5/16 inches from the bottom edge of cuff (side with curved ends).
One or more with the end of the cut less than 9/16 or more than 11/16 inch from side edge of cuff.
More than two skipped, or one or more broken stitches in one or more buttonhole.
Cut length of buttonhole more or less than 5/8 inch long by 1/16 inch or more.
Purl type buttonhole (when applicable) purling on top Spot(s) or stain(s). side of cuff.
Thread end(s) not trimmed, or thread end(s) not removed.
Any component or required operation omitted (un less otherwise classified herein).
Not cut as indicated by pattern.
Any hole or weakening defect such as a smash, mul tiple float, or slub.
Unsightly slub or shade bar. Needle chew, cut, tear or mend.
Burned or scorched.
Edges and points not forced out prior to fusing. Fusing omitted or incomplete.
Poorly fused resulting in permanent creases, fric tion marks.
Seam(s) twisted, puckered or pleated.
Examine Defect
Accuracy of seaming
Gage of st_itching Raw edges
Seam and stitch type
Stitch tension
Stitches per inch Shaded parts Labels
Thread break(s) stitched less than 1/2 inch beyond each end of break.
Ends of seam(s) or stitching, when not caught in other seam(s) or stitching, backtacked less than 1/4 inch.
Irregular, unevenly gaged.
| Less than 1/16 inch or more than 1/8 | inch from edge. |
| 1/8 | inch or more in length. Not specified seam type. |
Not specified stitch type.
Loose tension - Looper thread exposed on surface of one.collar or set of cuffs.
More or less than specified. Any part badly shaded.
Size label missing, incorrect, illegible or not
4.2.2.2
Size measurements.- positioned as specified.
Collar
Cuff (two each)
Any Measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified in table III shall be scored as a size measurement defect.
4.2.2.3 Acceptable quality levels.- The inspection levels and the acceptable quality levels expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) are as follows:
Inspection levels
For 4.2.2.l One class
For 4.2.2.2 One class
| 6.5 | II |
| 4.0 | S-3 |
4.2.3 Testing of the end item.- The end item shall be tested as specified in table V. All requirements shall be applicable to the individual sample unit. The sample unit shall be one laminated cuff. The sample size shall be as specified in 4.2.1.1, and the lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units fail to meet any of the requirements specified.
H
TABLE V.- End item testing
Requirement Test
Results Reported
End item Characteristic reference Method as
| Finished col- | Lamination after | 3.2.2 | Standard |
| lar and cuffs | five launderings | commercial ):_/ | |
| Stiffness (load | 3.2.2 | 5202 | |
| _ Warp | _ pounds) |
- Filling
Pass or fail ],.I Ave. of 5 speci mens in each of the warp and filling direc tions.
Discoloration 3.3.2 5660 2/ Pass or fail 1/
| l/ | the laminated collar and cuffs jhafl be subjected to five complete laundering cycles in accordance 11itli laund ring procedure for cotton outlined in Test Method 5556 of FED-STD-191. | ||
| 11 | The determinations per sample unit shall be 1. | ||
| J/ | Except that exposure of the specimen and standard sample shall be for 20 standard fading hours. | Any specimen showing discoloration less than or equal to that of the standard sample shall be rated "satisfactory". | Any specimen showing dis coloration greater than that of the standard sample shall be rated "unsatisfac tory". |
4.2.4 Examination of preparation for delivery requirements.- An examination shall be made to determine that packaging, packing and marking comply with the section 5 requirements of this purchase description. Defects shall be scored in accordance with list below. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery with the exception that it need not be closed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined on shipping containers fully prepared for delivery. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspection levels shall be S-2 and the AQL shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units.
Examine Defects
Marking (exterior and interior)
Omitted, incorrect, illegible, of improper size, location, sequence or method of application.
Materials Any component missing, damaged or not as speci fied.
Examine Defects
Workmanship
Content
Inadequate application of components, such as in complete closure of container flaps, loose strap ping inadequate stapling, improper taping.
Bulged or distorted container.
Number of intermediate packages per shipping con tainer is more or less than required.
Number of collar or cuffs (as applicable) per in termediate package is more or less than required. 1/
Size shown on one or more collars or cuffs (as appli cable) not as specified on containero l/ l/ For this defect, two .intermediatepackages from each container in the sample shall be examined.
5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY
5.1 Packaging (see 6.2).- Twelve colars or twenty-four cuffs (12 pairs) shall be tied into bundles accordingly. Twelve bundles of collars or cuffs shall be placed in snug-fitting boxes. When the total contract quantity of both collars and cuffs does not warrant more than one box, the collars and cuffs may be packaged in one box.
5.2 Packing (see 6.2).- Four boxes packaged as specified in 5.1 shall be packed in a carton in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at destina tion at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. Containers shall be in accordance with Uniform Freight Classification Rules or National Motor Freight Classi fication Rules, as applicable. When the total contract quantity, or the final ship ment, consists of less than four boxes, boxes of collars and boxes of cuffs may be placed in the same carton.
5.3 Marking.- In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order, interior packages and shipping containers shall be marked in aL:c:ordance with MIL-STD-129.
5.3.1 Labels, mixed sizes.- Each shipping container, packed with mixed L'. Ollars and cuffs shall have securely attached to the end and side, directly under the printing or stencilling, a white paper label 5- by 4-inches wich the words "MIXED ITEMS" plainly stamped or printed thereon, and under thee words shall b leglblv stamped or printed the correct quantity each item with sizes conta· ned ther. in.
6. NOTES
6.1 Intended use.- The collars and cuffs are intended for wear by cadets of the United States Military Academy.
6.2 Ordering data.- Procurement documents should specify the following:
(a) Title, number and date of this purchase description.
(b) Size required (see 1.2).
Cc) Any special marking, packaging or packing.
6.3 Sample and shade samples.- For access to sample of the end item and shade samples of the materials, address the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids.
| Custodian: | Preparing activity: |
| Army - GL | Army - GL |
Project No. 8440-F002
-- COLLAR TERMINATION ANGLE
£STABL/SlfEO BY 21 INCH RAiJIAL /JIMENS/ON TAKEN FROM CENTERLINE OF COLLAR (THIS LJ/lt!ENSION CONSTANT FON ALL SIZES) 1
26 RAOI/./S CONSTANT FOR COLLAR CURVATURE, ALL SIZES
)....- t.f:• \
- - I --- -
)S/Z£ 38--
'4-9 )
COLLAR
( SIZE 3B ILLUSTRATED)
I I
I I I
I
I
I I I I I I
I
CUFF
FIG.I, COLLAR AND CUFF SET (USMA)
ASCE-DRM-CO
3 December 2015
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION DEVIATION AND ADDITION TO:
NLABS PD #368 (24 AUG 1973) , COLLAR AND CUFFS, CADET (U.S.M.A.)
This deviation eliminates all reference to MILITARY SPECIFICATION MIL-C-43626 - Cloth, In terlining , Acetate and Cotton in NLABS PD #368, and supersedes all previous changes and deviations.
1 .2 Schedule of sizes- Add Men' s Collar Sizes 19 , 19½, 20, 20½, and 21. Add Women ' s Collar Sizes 13 ½, 14 and 14 ½. Add Cuff sizes 9½, 13, 13½, 14 and 14½. Additional sizes shall be graded accordingly to table III of section 3.8.
3.2.2 Interlining laminating cloth- All US Army and Natick Lab copies of MIL-C-43626 have been eliminated and destroyed. There fore, in lieu of a specification , the contractor shall use any interlining or commercially available fusible interlining cloth which will impart stiffness to the finished cuffs and collars, will not discolor the white color of the broadcloth, and will not separate from the broad cloth through launderings of finished cuffs and collars as described in the body of paragraph 3.2.2.
3.3. Design- The width of the Men ' s Collar shall be changed from 1 ¼" (+/- 1 /i6" ) to 15/i 6" ( +/- 1 /i6" ). The width of the Women ' s Collar shall be changed from I ¼" (+/- 1 / 1 6" ) to 11 /16" (+ /- 1 / 16" ).
ADDITIONS to NLABS PD 368:
In addition to performance described above and in NLABS PD 368 and unless the Government specifically directs in writing to the contrary, the Contractor shall securely apply four (4) female snap-fasteners (snaps) onto each cuff. There are circumstances in which the Government may specifically request all or a portion of an order of white cuffs not have snaps applied to the white cuffs. Governments request will indicate " Without Snaps" or " With Snaps " for each line item of the purchase/solicitatio n/contract. For guidance on proper positioning of snaps onto cuffs, see Table I, " Snap Positioning Specifications for White Cuffs" found on page 2 of Deviations and Additions to NLABS PD 368.
Female snaps applied to white cuffs shall provide a secure closure with corresponding male snaps that had been applied into the sleeves of USMA Uniform Coats and Overcoats. Note , the corresponding male snaps are applied into sleeves ofUSMA Cadet Coats and Overcoats by the manufacturer of those coats. To ensure a secure closure between male and female snaps, the female snaps applied to cuffs shall be, or equivalent to: Scovill Fasteners (GSG Fastener s, LLC, dba Scovill Fasteners 1802 Scovill Drive Clarkesville, GA 30523) Item Number 64K6912-4505 , #15 Socket in White Bronze Plate; and the corresponding required prong, Scovill Fasteners Item Number 64K3275-4505, Prong #15 LG O/P also in White Bronze Plate.
Deviatio ns and Addition s to NLABS PD 368. Page I of 2
Snap Positioning Specifications for White Cuffs.
Additional requirement to NLABS PD 368 (24 Aug 73) All measurements are in inches
)Snap position is measured from the center of the circular female snap to the respective edge of the cuff
ASCE-DRM-CO
All four (4) snaps shall be 15/
16" (-0 I + /
1 6" ) from the bottom edge of the cuff, the side with the curved ends.
Table I.
Cuff Size (inches) ( +1/ " to - 0" ) Distance from: Right -edge to 1st Rt Snap
| Distance 1st Snap |
| from: Right- |
to 2nd Rt Snap Distance -edge to
| from: 1st Lft |
| Left snap |
| Distance from: Left 1st Snap to 2nd Lft |
| - |
Snap
| 91/2 |
| 1 |
| 1/2 |
| 1 |
| 7/8 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| I |
| 7/8 |
| 10 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 1/8 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 1/8 |
| 10 1/2 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 3/8 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 3/8 |
| 11 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 9/16 |
| l |
| 1/2 |
| 2 |
| 9/16 |
| 111/2 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 2 13/16 |
| 1 1/2 |
| 2 13/16 |
| 12 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 1 |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 12 1/2 |
| l |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 1/4 |
| 1 |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 1/4 |
| 13 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 7/16 |
| 1 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 7/16 |
| 131/2 |
| l |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 5/8 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 3 |
| 5/8 |
| 14 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 3 13/16 |
| I |
| 1/2 |
| 3 13/16 |
| 141/2 |
| 1 |
| 1 /2 |
| 4 |
| 1 1 /2 |
| 4 |
| Tollerance for all snap positioning in Table I is |
| + / - '16, 11 |
Deviation and Additions to NLABS PD 368 Page 2 of 2
6 April 2015
USMA PURCHASE DESCRIPTION ADDENDUM
CLOTH, BROADCLOTH, COTTON MERCERIZED, BLEACHED, WHITE FOR CADET WHITE CUFFS AND COLLARS Cadet Services Division of the Directorate of Logistics of the United States Military Academy has authorized the use of this purchase description in preference to CCC-C437, CCC-C437-A, CCC-C437-B, CCC-C437-C, CCC-437-D and A-A-50160. This copy has been revised 4 January 2008 in format only.
252 CLASSIFICATION
252.247 Types and classes. The cloth shall be what was Type II, Class 1 as appeared in previous Specifications and Commercial Item Descriptions and shall be referred to as such for the purposes of this purchase description.
Type II - 3.2 ounces per square yard
Class 1 - Bleached
253 SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS
253.247 General. The cloth shall be a plain weave using single or ply cotton yarns. The color shall be bleached white as specified. The finished cloth shall be singed, de-sized, and mercerized. The width shall be 47 inches and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage when fly-shuttle looms or shuttleless looms with tuck-in selvages are used. For all other shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).
253.248 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in table I.
TABLE I. Physical Requirements
| Weight per | Yarns per inch | |
| Square Yard | minimum | |
| Breaking strength |
(min) Pounds
| Type Yarn |
| (min.) ounces Warp Filling |
| Warp Filling |
| Weave |
II
Combed
3.2
Plain
253.249 Bleached cloth (Class 1). White is the specified color. The cloth shall be chemically bleached white and may be supplemented with optical brighteners, which fluoresce to the blue region. The degree of whiteness shall match the USMA standard sample.
253.250 Shrinkage. The cloth shall be preshrunk to a residual shrinkage of not more than
1.0 percent in either direction of the warp or of the filling after 20 industrial launderings for cotton broad cloth using bleach.
253.251 Put-up. The cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths of not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up in rolls as specified in 4.1. Weighing approximately 125 pounds each.
253.252 Marking. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on end of the piece.
254 QUALITY ASSURANCE
254.247 Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the specifications, standards and quality assurance practices, and is the same as the product offered for sale in commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract.
255 PACKAGING
255.247 Packaging. The cloth shall be on a convolute or spiral-wound chipboard tube. The tube shall have a smooth finish that will prevent the fibers of the chipboard from transferring to the cloth. Each roll of cloth, put-up as specified, shall be wrapped with protective covering of 60-pound minimum basis weight kraft paper, plastic or other suitable covering to protect the roll from contact with dirt, dust, water and oil.
OPTION YEARS
For each additional option year there maybe changes in quantities and sizes, however, the unit prices remain the same for Cuffs and Collar items.
Evaluation Criteria Cuffs & Collars, Cadet (PD# 368)
Purpose: To establish the criteria that the Cuff & Collar sample(s) shall be evaluated against to determine the acceptability of the sample to the Government.
1. The color of the sample shall be visually inspected for consistency at the seams. The material that meets at the seams shall not have a noticeable variance in color. When there is a noticeable difference in color this will be a major defect.
2. The seams will be checked for consistency and quality. The seams shall not have breaks and the stitching shall be smooth. It shall be considered a major defect if there are two or more breaks in the stitching or any excessive rough areas due to excessive overlapping stitches.
3. The Cuff & Collar samples shall be visually inspected to check for any;
| a) Rips | One or more shall be a major defect |
| b) Tears | One or more shall be a major defect |
| c) Frays | Three or more shall be a major defect |
d) Stains;
One or more large enough to be readily noticed shall be considered a major defect. If only a natural speckle, eight shall be a minor defect.
4. The sample shall include the Instruction label referenced in 3.2.4. The label shall be checked for all specified requirements, size and printed content. Failure to provide the label or include all requirements listed shall constitute a major defect and result in sample to be determined unacceptable to the Government.
5. The sample shall be checked for the stamp/label required in 3.2.5. Omitting the stamp/label on the Cuff or Collar shall be a major defect.
6. The samples shall be checked for excessive buckling. The sample shall lay essentially flat when placed on a flat surface. If buckling results in any side or end of the Cuff sample to raise more than 3/8 of an inch in the air or the Collar to raise more than ½ inch in the air the sample shall have a major defect.
7. Compliance with 3.7.1 shall be checked, non compliance shall be a major defect.
8. Size compliance with the requirements in Table III for both the Collar and Cuff shall be checked, deviation or noncompliance shall be considered a major defect.
9. The Government shall apply snaps to the Cuff sample and install into the appropriate sized coat to check for fit. Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect. The Government will install a collar into an appropriate size coat. Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect.
10. Section 4 applies and where applicable ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, "Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes applies.
Defects
| One Major Defect in the sample will fail the sample and it shall be considered unacceptable to the | Government. |
| Two Minor Defects in the sample will fail the sample and it shall be considered unacceptable to the | Government. |
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File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .