SPEC NAVY TROPICAL NAVY 3729 NCTRF PD 04-06.pdf

NCTRF PD 04-06

14 February 2006

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-24910B

NOTICE 2

10 February 2004

SUPERSEDING

NOTICE 1

15 October 1999

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-24910B

27 January 1992

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TROPICAL: POLYESTER AND WOOL

This purchase desccription is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one type of washable polyester and wool tropical cloth.

1.2. Classification. The cloth will be available in the classes below.

Class 1 – Blue 3346 Class 2 – Khaki 3729

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool Mothproofing Treatment of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD

MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Ave at Sixths Street, N.W. Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Copies are available online at http://www.usda.gov or from the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 – Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation procedure 9 – Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 – Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 – Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16- Colorfastness to Light AATCC Test Method 20A – Fiber Analysis: Quantitive AATCC Test Method 61 – Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 81- pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processed Textiles http://assist.daps.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gove/ http://www.usda.gov/

AATCC Test Method 132 – Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D1907- Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the

Skein Method ASTM D3511 – Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces

Changes Fabrics – Brush Pilling ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776 – Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5103 - Standard Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of Manufactured

Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test) ASTM D5034 – Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND COMPANY

Sears Fabric Defect Kit

(Copies are available from Sears, Roebuck and Company, Department 817HG, FC568B, 3333 Beverly Road, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subject to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Cloth description. The basic fabric shall be a plain weave cloth. Unless otherwise specified, the finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvages or exclusive of tuck-in when woven on shuttleless looms . When applicable, length of cloth shall be specified in contract.

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.2.1 Standard sample. The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall, unless otherwise indicated be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3.2 Stock (fiber) content.

3.3.2.1 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The fiber shall be 3 denier and the minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches.

3.3.2.2 Wool. The wool stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 64’s U.S. Standard. The wool fiber shall be blended with the appropriate polyester, shall be spun on the worsted spinning system. The use of recycled material, noils, laps or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited.

3.3.3 Yarn. The polyester and wool fibers shall be blended and spun on the worsted system for both warp and filling yarns. The yarn shall be twisted into a 2-ply warp and filling.

3.4. Finish, stock (fiber).

3.4.1 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be Blue 3346 for class 1 and Khaki 3729 for class 2 and shall match the standard sample. The color of the cloth shall be obtained by stock (fiber) dyeing. The color of the selvages shall approximate the shade of the cloth.

3.4.2 Mothproofing. The mothproofing of the wool top shall be in accordance with MIL-C- 43665.

3.4.3 Finish, cloth. The cloth shall be scoured, heat set, sheared and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample.

3.4.3.1. Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show “gray scale ratings” for colorfastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning, perspiration, light as well as “chromatic transference scale ratings” for crocking equal to or better than those specified in Table I.

3.5 Wool Content Label. The cloth shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939.

3.6 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements

Characteristics Requirement Breaking strength:

Warp Filling

100 lbs (minimum) 80 lbs (minimum)

Colorfastness, rating:

Laundering Wet-dry clean Perspiration Light Crocking, dry or wet

4.0 (minimum)

4.0 (minimum)

4.0 (minimum)

4.0 (minimum)

4.0 (minimum)

Dimensional stability:

3.0% (maximum) 2.5% (maximum)

Fiber content:

Polyester Wool

75% (± 2%) 25% (± 2%)

Length of fiber (Polyester) 3 inches (minimum) pH 5.5 to 8.5 Pilling scale rating 4.0 (minimum) Tear strength:

4.0 lbs (minimum)

4.0 lbs (minimum)

Weave 1 x 1 Plain Weight 1/ 10 (± 0.5) ounces per linear yd Yarns per inch:

Yarn ply:

Warp or filling

2-ply

1/ Based on 56-inch width cloth.

3.7 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form or function and those specified in MIL-STD-655. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point value.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. When required, a first article shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table II. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the requirements in Table II are not met. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the sample unit shall be 4-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth per roll of cloth.

TABLE II. First article inspection

Inspection Requirement Verification Material and component verification 3.3.2 to 3.5 Table V In process inspection 3.3.2 to 3.5 4.3.2, 4.3.2.1 End item inspections:

Visual and dimensional examination Physical examinations

3.2 to 3.5 3.3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.3.1, 3.6

4.3.3.1 to 4.3.3.3 Table V

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination and test specified in 4.3.3 to 4.3.3.4 and Table V. The presence of any nonconformance to the specified verifications shall be cause to reject any production lot.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with Table III. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the sample unit shall be 4-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth per roll of cloth. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any verification requirement specified.

TABLE III. Lot sample size for yards of cloth

Lot size (yards) Sample size (of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.3.2 In-process inspections. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance MIL-STD-655, shall be removed from production.

4.3.2.1 Grade examination for wool. The wool shall be examined for the grade (see 3.3.2.2) in the undyed top form by comparison with applicable U. S. Standard. The sample unit shall be one

(1) yard of top, prior to dyeing and to blending with polyester fibers. The sample size shall be listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one pound and the results from each sample unit shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade.

TABLE IV. Lot sample size for pounds of wool fiber

Lot size (pounds) Sample size (of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.3.3 End item methods of inspections.

4.3.3.1 Visual and dimensional end item examinations. Unless otherwise specified, the visual and dimensional (width and length) examinations for the finished cloth shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-655.

4.3.3.1.1 Yard-by-yard examination. The yard-by-yard examination shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. The fabric quality shall be quality level 15.

4.3.3.1.2 Examination for length. Examination for length shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655, except any lot found to be less than the minimum length specified in this document or more than two yards less than the length marked on the ticket shall be scored as a defect. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to the length. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual length of the rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the roll tickets.

4.3.3.1.3 Limit for slubs and knots. Only those knots and slubs, which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scales 3-1/2 or D for slubs and C for knots, shall be scored.

4.3.3.2 Visual examination for shade and finish. Each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade match and finish. The finished cloth shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+ 200) Kelvin, with illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles and under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+ 200) Kelvin to determine if it is a good match to the standard sample. A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade match and finish. The sample unit shall be a 4-inch by 20-inch swatch of cloth. A sample unit shall be drawn from each roll in the lot. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

4.3.3.3. Other visual examinations. The finished cloth shall be examined visually for weave structure and yarn ply in warp and filling directions. For all examinations cited in this paragraph, one determination per sample unit shall be examined. All the test samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776. Where applicable the sample unit shall be a 4 x 4-inch swatch. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.3.3.4 Finished cloth tests. The finished cloth shall be tested for the applicable characteristics listed in Table V. All the test samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result.

TABLE V. Finished cloth tests

Characteristics Requirement Verification Breaking strength, warp or filling 3.6 ASTM D5034 Colorfastness:

Crocking, dry or wet 1/ Laundering 2/ Light 3/ Perspiration 4/ Wet-dry clean 5/

3.6

3.6

AATCC 8

AATCC 61, Test 2A AATCC 16, Option 3

AATCC 15

AATCC 132

Denier, polyester 3.3.2.1 ASTM D1907 Dimensional stability, warp or filling 6/ 3.6 AATCC 135 (3) VAiii Fiber content: polyester or wool 3.6 AATCC 20A Fiber length, polyester 3.3.2.1 ASTM D5103 Mothproofing 3.4.2 7/ pH 3.6 AATCC 81 Pilling scale rating 3.6 ASTM D3511 Tear strength, warp or filling 3.6 ASTM D1424 Weight 3.6 ASTM D3776, Option C Yarns per inch, warp or filling 3.6 ASTM D3775

1/ The AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 shall apply.

2/ The specimen shall under go three (3) laundering cycles (minimum). The specimen shall be dried after each of the three laundering cycles. Only the stain on the wool and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and Procedure 2.

3/ The specimen shall be exposed to Option 3 for 170 Kilojoules. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 4/ Only the stain on the wool and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

Acid test only. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and 2.

5/ Only the stain on the wool and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and 2.

6/ The test specimens shall be subjected to five washing and drying cycles before the dimensional change values are calculated.

7/ The mothproofing shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements cited under MIL-C-43665.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for use in the manufacture of dress apparel for wear by male and female personnel of the U. S. Navy.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2)

c. Length and/or width required (see 3.2, 4.3.3.1).

d. National stock number

e. Applicable shade standard sample. (see 3.2.1, 3.4.1)

f. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

g. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

h. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

i. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit DSCP’s Warfighter website, http://warfighter.dla.mil. Choose Vendor Info > Specification/Pattern Request. Complete the request form, and then submit form.

6.5 Source of supply. Point of contact at Sears, Roebuck and Company is J. Graf, phone number 847-286-8952, fax 847-286-5991 for the Sears’ Fabric Defect Kit.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

http://warfighter.dla.mil/

Cloth, dress clothing Cloth, washable clothing Fabric, washable

6.7 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

Preparing activity:

Navy-NU

Custodian:

Navy-NU

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at http://assist.daps.dla.mil.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/