Spec_Data-PGC_28882-Scarf _Neckwear Wool _Blk--A-A-55226A.pdf

INCH-POUND

A-A-55226A October 23, 1996

SUPERSEDING

(see Section 7)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

SCARF, NECKWEAR, WOOL AND SCARF, HEADOVER, WOOL

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description for all Federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for knitted wool scarfs intended for use by personnel of the Department of Defense.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The scarfs shall be of the following types and classes:

Type I - Neckwear Type II - Headover

Class 1 - Olive Green 208 Class 2 - Gray 1155 Class 4 - Blue 3346

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The Type I scarf shall be a tubular seamless type, with open ends. The ends shall be reinforced with a single layer of tape around both ends of the scarf, and overlock stitched (12-16 stitches per inch). The tape ends shall overlap no less than 1/2 inch, and shall be bartacked to the scarf.

The Type II scarf shall be a tubular knit type, with hemmed ends. The ends shall be finished with a double chain stitch (402 or 406) (10-14 stitches per inch). Type I scarfs shall have a label sewn to the inside, with the top of the label positioned 1/2 + 1/8 inch below and parallel to the edge. Type II scarfs shall have a label sewn to the inside of the hem and attached in the hem stitches. The finished scarfs shall be pressed flat with the label centered + 1 inch (see Figure 1).

Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNS, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099.

AMSC N/A FSC 8440

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

Source: https://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2015-08-10T13:30Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

3.2 Material.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the scarf shall be a flat jersey knit tube made on a circular machine using two ends of 2-ply worsted yarn in each feed. The wool yarn for knitting and for overedging the ends of the scarfs shall be mothproofed, 2-ply worsted yarn made of fleece or pulled sheep's wool, or a combination of both, not lower in grade than 56's US Standard. The face (wale side) of the fabric shall have a lightly brushed finish on both sides of the scarf. The basic material shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I.

3.2.1.1 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and that have a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 K (both types), with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 + 200 K (Type I) and 2800 + 200 K (Type II).

3.2.2 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be machine thread, soft finish cotton, 40 Tex, 3 ply. The color of the thread shall match the basic material color.

Colorfastness tests and requirements are the same as specified in Table I.

3.2.3 Tape. The cotton tape for reinforcing the scarf ends shall be a 1/4 + 1/32 inch wide, two up and two down single, or multiple herringbone twill with one or more reversals of the twill across the width of the tape, and woven edges on both sides. The color of the tape shall match the basic material color. Colorfastness tests and requirements are the same as specified in Table I. The finished tape shall conform to the requirements when tested as specified in Table II.

TABLE I. Basic material requirements

Characteristic Minimum Requirements Test Methods Colorfastness to:

Crocking

Laundering Light Perspiration

3.5 on AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale 2/ "good" 1/ 2/ "good" 2/ 4/ "good" 1/ 2/ 4/

AATCC 8

AATCC 61, 1A 3/

AATCC 16, Opt. A

AATCC 15

Courses per inch Wales per inch

ASTM-D-3887

ASTM-D-3887

Bursting strength 60 lbs. ASTM-D-3787 Shrinkage (after 1 laundering cycle) 13 percent AATCC 96 5/ Wool content (Based on dry weight) 95 percent AATCC 20 Mothproofing compounds (Percent by weight to be applied to wool fiber)

0.65 min. 1.45 max. Test Method No. 2015.1 6/

1/ Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining 2/ When a standard sample is available, the scarf shall show colorfastness equal or better than the standard sample.

3/ The laundering cycle of the launderometer or similar machine shall be 30 minutes, and the temperature of the container shall be maintained at 100oF (38o + 2oC).

4/ A change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 4 5/ The wool laundering procedure shall be used, except the specimens shall be air dried (not tumble dried) and shall not be pressed prior to measuring.

6/ Federal Test Method Standard 191 7/ Mothproofing compounds - Sodium 5-chloro-2-(4-chloro-2-[3-(3,4 dicholorphenyl)-ureido]phenoxyl]benzensulfonate

TABLE II. Tape requirements

Characteristic Minimum requirements Test methods Yarn count and ply Warp Filling

40/2 or 20/1 60/2 or 30/1

1/ 2/ 1/ 2/

Yarns per inch 28 ends/inch 38 picks/inch

2/ 2/

Breaking strength (warp) 25 lbs. ASTM-D-5034 Shrinkage 4.0 percent (max.) 2/ 3/ 1/ Cotton count + 5.0 percent.

2/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirement.

3/ The tape may be preshrunk.

3.3 Labels. A commercial-type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor's name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information. The laundering instructions shall be as follows:

DRY CLEAN OR HANDWASH GENTLY, IN LUKEWARM SUDS. DO NOT TWIST OR

WRING. DRY ON FLAT SURFACE AWAY FROM HEAT. DO NOT TUMBLE DRY.

3.3.1 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

3.4 Sizes and measurements. The finished scarfs shall conform to the measurements in Table

III.

TABLE III. Finished measurements and weights

Measurement Tolerance Characteristic Type I Type II Type I Type II

Width 9 inches 9 inches + 1/2 inch + 1 inch

Length 54 inches 24 inches + 1-1/2 inches

+ 1 inch

Weight (each) 6.0 ounces 2.8 ounces Minimum 1/ Minimum 1/ 1/ Weight shall be tested in accordance with ASTM-D-3776, option C. Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D-1776 prior to testing.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be a similar product that is offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government for at least two years.

5.3 Visual examination. Each scarf shall be examined for the defects listed below.

5.3.1 Defects. Any hole, cut, tear, or mend; shade bar; color not as specified; any spot or stain (outside); raw edges; open seams; thread ends not removed; reinforcing tape omitted or improperly applied; rolled puckered, or ragged scarf ends; overedge stitching omitted, broken, or skipped; face of fabric not lightly brushed; scarf not types specified; any operation not as specified; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible;

bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

5.4 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING

6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

7.2 Source of non-Government documents

ASTM Test Methods

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials (ASTM), 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Consohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

AATCC Test Method

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

7.3 Supersession data. This commercial item description supersedes A-A-55226, dated August 27, 1993 and MIL-S-29428A(MC), dated 6 May 1991.

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: CIVIL AGENCY COORDINATING ACTIVITY:

Army - GL GSA - FSS Navy - NU Air Force - 99 PREPARING ACTIVITY:

DLA - CT

Review Activities:

Air Force - 82, 45 Navy - MC Project 8440-0228