NCTRF PD 11-07E.pdf

NCTRF PD 11-07E

October 6, 2017

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 11-07D

November 8, 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, FLIGHT DECK, FLAME RESISTANT

This Purchase Description is approved by the Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for a flame resistant trouser to be worn by flight deck personnel.

1.2 Classification

1.2.1 Classes. The trousers will be of one type and two classes as specified below.

Class 1 – Navy Blue 3391 Class 2 – Khaki 3729

1.2.2 Sizes. The trousers will be furnished in the following sizes and lengths, as specified .

(see 6.2)

XSmall-XShort (XS-XSH) XSmall-Short (XS-SH) XSmall-Regular (XS-RG) XSmall-Long (XS-LG) Small-XShort (S-XSH) Small-Short (S-SH) Small-Regular (S-RG) Small-Long (S-LG) Medium-XShort (M-XSH) Medium-Short (M-SH) Medium-Regular (M-RG) Medium-Long (M-LG) Medium-XLong (M-XL) Medium-XXLong (M-XXL) Large-Short (L-SH)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Program Manager, Aircrew Systems (PMA202), Naval Air Systems Command, 21491 Great Mills Road, Patuxent River, MD 206532- 1220. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online databased at https://assist.dla.mil.

Large-Regular (L-RG) https://assist.dla.mil/

Large-Long (L-LG) Large-XLong (L-XLG) Large-XXLong (L-XXLG) XLarge-Short (XL-SH) XLarge-Regular (XL-RG) XLarge-Long (XL-LG) XLarge-XLong (XL-XLG) XLarge-XXLong (XL-XXLG) XXLarge-Short (XXL-SH) XXLarge-Regular (XXL-RG) XXLarge-Long (XXL-LG) XXLarge-XLong (XXL-XLG) XXLarge-XXLong (XXL-XXLG)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-W-5664 -Webbing, Textile, Elastic MIL-DTL-10884 - Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation contract.

NAVAL AIR SYSTEMS COMMAND

NAWC PD 4672-16-02 - Cloth, Twill, Flame Resistant

DRAWINGS

DLA DISC Drawing 02936 - Fasteners, Snap, Style 2

(Copies of this document are available from the procuring activity.) (see 6.4)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERCIAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 136 – Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D76 - Standard Specification for Tensile Testing

Machines for Textiles

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test-Modified Draize Procedure-Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition), A. Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence, KY 41042.)

2.4 Order of precedence.

http://www.astm.org/

In the event of a conflict between the text of this Purchase Description and the references cited herein, the text of this Purchase Description shall take precedence. Nothing in this Purchase Description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The Class 1 and Class 2 flame resistant flight deck trousers shall contain the design elements below.

a) Elasticized one piece waistband with snap closure

b) Center front fly and slide fastener closure

c) Pleated front (one pleat per panel)

d) Reinforced seat and knees

e) Darted knees (two darts per knee)

f) Gusseted inseam at back rise

g) Double lapped seat and out seams

h) 7 Belt loops

i) Bottom leg hem

3.3.1 Design details.

3.3.1.1 Elasticized one piece waistband. The elasticized waistband shall be a one piece fold over band with double needle top stitch on the top and bottom length of the band. Each end shall fold back 2 (± 1/8) inches and be incorporated into the fly construction. The side waist elastic on each side of the trousers shall start 3 (± 1/8) inches forward of the side seam, continue past the side seam and end halfway between the outseam and the seat seam on the back panel. The finished relaxed measurement for the waistband circumference shall be 4 inches less than the extended finished waist circumference. The finished waistband shall measure 1-5/8 (± 1/8) inches wide.

3.3.1.2 Front fly. The “J” stitching on the front fly shall be double needle stitched with a 1/4 inch gauge, 1-3/8 (± 1/8) inches from front edge of fly. The double stitching shall extend from the top of waistband to the fly notch. The top corners of the right and left flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from edge of fly. The seam joining the left fly to the front shall not be visible on the outside of trousers, when closed. The right fly lining shall not be visible on outside. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers or excessive fullness. The trousers shall have a bartack at the point where the slide fastener is at its lowest point at the front edge of fly. A second bartack shall be positioned to relieve the tension placed upon the bottom stop. The second bartack shall be placed on the double needle “J” stitching, approximately 3/4 inch from the base of the fly bartack at a vertical angle. The trousers shall be bartacked on the inside of the trousers through the left and right fly assembly.

3.3.1.3 Snap fastener attachment. The button and socket (female half) portion of the snap fastener shall be centered on the left front of waistband between folded edge of waistband and “J” stitching, and centered within the width of the waistband. The stud and eyelet (male half) shall be centered on the right front edge of the waistband and shall correspond with the button and socket on the left waistband. When the snap fastener assemblies are engaged and the slide fastener is closed, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist, or be distorted.

3.3.2. Slide fastener attachment. The slide fastener shall be positioned with the edge of the chain (scoops) 1/2 to 5/8 inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch at bottom. The end of the chain (scoops) shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the fly notch when fasteners are cut and scoops removed. The top of the slide fastener stop shall be no more than 1/4 inch below the finished waistband. The bottom stop shall be at a maximum of 3/8 inch above fly notch. The length of the slides fasteners for each size trouser is listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Fly slide fastener lengths (inches)

Waist Size Trouser Length

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long X-Small 6-1/2 7 7-1/2 8 - -

Small 6-3/4 7-1/4 7-3/4 8-1/4 8-3/4 - Medium 7 7-1/2 8 8-1/2 9 9-1/2

Large - 7-3/4 8-1/4 8-3/4 9-1/4 9-3/4 X-Large - 8 8-1/2 9 9 -1/2 10

XX-Large - - 8-3/4 9-1/4 9-3/4 10-1/4

3.3.3 Pleated front. The front shall have two 3/4 inch pleats stitched from the notches to the drills indicated on the Trouser Front 1 template. The pleats shall fold toward the side seam.

3.3.4 Reinforced seat and knees. The reinforcement patch for the seat and the knee shall be cut from the basic material using the seat patch and knee patch patterns. Each reinforcement patch for the seat and knees shall be a single layer with a 1/2 inch turn under seam allowance secured with a double needle topstitch. The seat patch shall be caught in the center back seam and each reinforcement knee patch shall be caught in the inseam and outseam of the leg.

3.3.5 Darted knees. The front knee darts shall be sewn separately for the reinforcement knee patch and front leg panel. Each dart shall finish 3-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in from the cut edge according to marks on the pattern and template.

3.3.6 Belt loops. Each finished belt loop shall measure 3/8 to 7/16 inch wide, and have a 2- 1/2 (± 1/8) inch opening. The belt loops shall be edgestitched along each edge. The top and bottom of each belt loop shall be folded under and bartacked 1/8 inch from the folded edges. The belt loops shall be positioned even with the top of the waistband. There shall be seven belt loops.

The loops shall be positioned as follows:

a. One on each front centered between outseam and front closure.

b. One adjacent to each side seam on back of trouser.

c. One centered between each outseam and seat seam.

d. One at seat seam (center back), attached after waistband attachment.

3.3.7 Bottom leg hem. The bottom leg hem shall be a double turned under with a finished width of 1/2 inch (total 1-1/8 inch folded) when measured from top of fold to bottom fold and secured using Stitch Type 301. Bottom openings shall be even in width.

3.4 Materials and components.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a flame resistant fabric and shall conform to the requirements of NAWC PD-4672-16-02 The trousers shall be Navy Blue 3391 for Class 1 or Khaki 3729 for Class 2.

3.4.2 Interlining. The interlining for the waistband and front left fly shall be a fusible interlining and have the same life expectancy as the trouser. After attaching to the basic material, the interlining shall meet an initial directional bond strength of 32 ounces minimum per inch and 24 ounces minimum after 3 launderings. There shall be no delamination, bubbling or strike-through after the trouser is laundered 3 times.

3.4.3 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester core, ticket no. 50 or 70, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. The color of the thread shall approximate the color of the basic material.

3.4.4 Slide fastener. The trouser slide fastener shall conform to Type I, style 1 or 2 (continuous) or style 4 or 5 (preassembled), cam or semi-automatic locking, size 4-5, short tab pull of A-A-55634. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same contractor. Style 1 and 2 require the application of a slider and bottom stop during the production of the trousers. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be navy blue or khaki to approximate the color of the trouser.

3.4.5 Snap fastener. The snap fastener closure shall consist of a button and socket (female half) and stud and eyelet (male half). The fasteners shall be Style 2, Finish 2, of MIL-DTL-10884 and Construction B, Button Size 1, Eyelet Size 1, of DLA DISC Drawing 02936 Fasteners, Snap, Style 2.

3.4.6 Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing for the trouser waistband shall be 1 inch wide and conform to Type II, Class 1 of MIL-W-5664. As an alternate, a 1-1/2 (± 1/16) inch wide elastic conforming to QST style 150-43171RA, or equal may be used (see 6.5). Elastic ends may be heat cut to prevent raveling. If the alternate 1-1/2 inch elastic is used, the manufacturer will adjust patterns to accommodate the wider elastic without altering finished dimensions created by government furnished patterns and stitching. The color shall be natural or black.

3.4.6.1 Elastic waist construction. The elastic for the waistband shall be cut to the length needed to achieve both the trouser 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements (for each size) as specified in paragraph 3.8, Table VI and the elongation force specified below.

The finished elasticized waistband features shall conform to the requirements stated in Table II.

TABLE II. Elastic requirements.

Feature Elongation (in.)

+/- 1/16 inch

Force (lbs.) Minimum to Maximum

Waistband 3/4 0.5 to 1.5 Waistband 1-1/2 1.5 to 4.0

3.4.7 Labels.

3.4.7.1 Combination label. Each pair of trousers shall have a combination identification, instruction, and personal label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075.

The label shall be centered on the hip pocketing. The label shall face the wearer on the finished trousers. The label shall be sewn on top, both sides and along the bottom. Stitching shall not go through the inscription. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment, which shall be a minimum of 50 washings.

The label shall contain the following information:

NAME:

TROUSERS, FLIGHT DECK, FLAME RESISTANT

Fiber content:

Contract #: SPE100-00-0-0000 (example) Contractor Name:

Name of manufacturer (if different than contractor):

Lot number:

DRY CLEAN

OR

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

CLEAN GARMENT THOROUGHLY

DETERGENT ONLY

WASH UP TO 165º F (74º C)

NO CHLORINE OR HYDROGEN PEROXIDE BLEACH

EITHER SEPARATELY OR IN DETERGENTS

NO SOFTENERS OR STARCH

FAILURE TO LAUNDER PROPERLY

COULD ADVERSELY AFFECT THE

FLAME RESISTANCE OF THE FABRIC

OR

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA II

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.4.7.2 Size label. Each pair of trousers shall have a size label sewn into the lower edge of the inside of the waistband above the hip pocket conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall indicate size and stock number as shown below. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment.

Medium-Regular (example of Size-Length) Waist: 32 to 35 inch (example) Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 inch (example) Stock No: 8415-01-500-0000 (example of NSN)

3.4.7.3 Garment lot designation. For garment manufacturing traceability, each trouser shall have a lot designation. The lot number shall be placed on the combination identification/care label of the trouser garment as specified in 3.4.6.1. Batch designation in lieu of lot designation shall not be acceptable.

3.4.7.4 Removable size and Universal Product Code (UPC) ticket. Each trouser shall have a removable size and UPC ticket folded over the outside of the waistband centered between the 2nd and 3rd belt loops on the left side. The ticket shall be 3 (± 1/8) inches wide and 3-7/8(± 1/8) inches long before folded. The ticket shall be folded over the top of the waistband. The face of the ticket shall measure 3 inches wide by 2-1/2 inches long, the top of the fold shall measure 3 inches by 1/8 inch and the back of the ticket shall measure 3 inches by 1-1/4 inch, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The ticket shall be printed or stamped in blue or black ink and shall include information as specified in 3.4.7.2. The lettering for the size on the front shall be 1/4 inch and the lettering for fold over shall be 1/8 inch. There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for UPC shall be a medium to high density.

3.4.8 Toxicity. The flame resistant cloth used to fabricate the trousers shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.7).

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in this Purchase Description. Government patterns provide 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except 3/8 inch for attachment of waistband, 1/4 inch at the waistband sides and 1-1/8 inch to finish hem.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the basic material in 3.4.1 and the interlining in 3.4.2 and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified in Table III.

TABLE III: List of pattern parts

Material Pattern Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature 1/ Cut Parts Basic material (3.4.1) Inseam Gusset FDT-B-INSM-GUSSET Cut 1 Back FDT-B-BACK Cut 2 Seat Patch FDT-B-SEAT-PATCH Cut 2 Waist Band FDT-B-WAISTBAND Cut 1 Belt Loop FDT-B-BELT-LOOP Cut 1 Front 1 FDT-B-FRONT Cut 2 Fly Right FDT-B-FLY-RT Cut 1 Fly Left FDT-B-FLY-LFT Cut 1 Knee Patch FDT-B-KNEE-PATCH Cut 2 Fusible interlining (3.4.2) Fuse Waistband Left FDT-F-WB-INTRLNG-LFT Cut 1 Fuse Waistband Center

Back FDT-F-WB-INTRLING-CB Cut 1 Fuse Waistband Right FDT-F-WB-INTRLING-RT Cut 1 Fuse Fly Left FDT-F-FLY-LFT Cut 1 Trouser Back FDT-T-BACK Template Trouser Waistband FDT-T-WAISTBAND Template Trouser Front FDT-T-FRONT Template

1/ FDT stands for Flight Deck Trouser

3.6 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. All stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trousers. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a maximum of 1/8 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the trousers. The bottom of the trousers shall have a 1/2 inch lock stitched hem, Stitch Type 301. Inseams shall be safety stitched. Outseams and the seat seam shall be a double lapped 1/4 inch gauge seam. Topstitching shall be 1/4 inch and edge stitching shall be 1/16 inch from edge. The 301 stitch type edge stitching and topstitching shall be 10-14 stitches per inch. All other 301 or 401 stitch types shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching, the stitches per inch shall have 8-12 stitches per inch. All bartacks shall be 3/8 inch. The bartacks shall have 28 - 40 stitches per bartack (see 4.4.3.1) and shall be located as identified in Table IV. Seams shall be sewn using seam types listed in Table V.

TABLE IV. Bartacks

Size Stitches/ Location

(Inches) bartack 3/8 28-40 Horizontally centered across top and bottom of belt loops 3/8 28-40 Horizontally bottom of fly at front edge of left fly opening 3/8 28-40 45 degree angle bottom of fly, superimposed on “J” stitching

TABLE V. Seam types.

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type Outseams, seat seam, back gusset seam

LSc-2 1/4 inch 301 or 401

Attach waistband LSk-4 1-1/2 (+1/8 / -1/4 inches between rows)

301 or 401

All overedging EFd-1 503 or 504 Front fly slide fastener attachment SSak-1 3/16 to ¼ from teeth 301 J-Stitching on fly SSv-2 1-3/8 inch from front edge 301 Left center front fly edge SSe-2 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301 Belt loop construction EFh-1 1/16 to 3/16 inch from edges 406 Attachment of seat and knee patches

LSd-2 1/16 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

Label attachment LSbj-1 1/16 to 3/16 inch from edges 301 Trouser hems EFb-1 1/16 to 3/16 inch from inside folded edge

3.6.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The seat seam cannot be repaired and shall be completely resewn.

3.7 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the trousers shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the item and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(a) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(b) Sew-on shade tickets

(c) Adhesive type tickets that discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.8 Sizes and measurements. The finished dimensions shall be in accordance with the measurements of Table VI. See 4.4.4, Table XI, for location of finished dimensions: (all measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches).

TABLE VI. Finished dimensions (inches).

SIZE X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-LONG TOL.

1/2 Waist - Relaxed X-Small

Small Medium

Large X-Large

XX-Large

-1/4 +1/2

1/2 Waist – Stretched

X-Small, (min) Small (min)

Medium (min) Large (min)

X-Large (min) XX-Large (min)

N/A

Inseam:

X-Small

Small Medium

Large

28-3/4 28-3/4 28-3/4

30-3/4

30-3/4 30-3/4

32-3/4

32-3/4 32-3/4

34-3/4

34-3/4 34-3/4

36-3/4 36-3/4 36-3/4

38-3/4 38-3/4 38-3/4 38-3/4

± 3/4

Outseam:

X-Small

Small Medium

Large

37-3/4 38-1/4 38-3/4

40-1/4 40-3/4 41-1/4 41-3/4 42-1/4

42-3/4 43-1/4 43-3/4 44-1/4 44-3/4 45-1/4

45-1/4 45-3/4 46-1/4 46-3/4 47-1/4 47-3/4

48-1/4 48-3/4 49-1/4 49-3/4 50-1/4

51-1/4 51-3/4 52-1/4 52-3/4

± 3/4

Bottom leg opening:

X-Small

Small Medium

Large

8.5

8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8 9-1/4

8-7/8 8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8 9-1/4

+ 1/2

3.9 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function and shall be free from defects specified in MIL-STD- 1488 for utility trousers. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the point value established in MIL-STD-1488. The finished trouser shall be thoroughly cleaned and all threads, lint and foreign matter shall be removed. The trouser shall not contain any fabric defects. Trousers legs shall be equal in length and width.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article inspection, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall consist of all examination and tests specified in Table VII. The presence of any nonconformance to Table VII shall be cause to reject first article.

TABLE VII: First Article Inspections

Inspection Requirement Test Method

Material and Components 3.4.1, 3.4.2, 3.4.3, 3.4.4, 3.4.5, 3.4.6, 3.4.7.1

4.4.1

Visual Examination 3.3, 3.4.7.1, 3.4.7.2, 3.6, 3.7, 3.9 4.4.3 Finished Dimensions 3.8 4.4.4

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order (see

6.2), the number of samples for first article inspections of the completed trouser shall be one trouser for each size ordered.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations specified in Table VIII and the tests of 4.4.1 as required (see in 6.2).

TABLE VIII: Conformance Inspections

Inspection Requirement Test Method In process Inspection: Visual and Dimensional Examinations

3.3, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 4.4.2, 4.4.3, 4.4.4

End Item Inspection:

Material and Components

3.4.1, 3.4.2, 3.4.3, 3.4.4, 3.4.5, 3.4.6, 3.4.7.1

4.4.1

Visual Examination 3.3, 3.4.7.1, 3.4.7.2, 3.6, 3.7, 3.9

4.4.3

Dimensional Examination 3.8 4.4.4

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-1488. The sample unit shall be one pair of trousers and the lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers.

4.4 Inspection methods. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents (see 6.2).

4.4.1 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests of Table IX.

TABLE IX: Component and material examinations and tests

Material/Component Characteristic Reference Test Method 1/ Basic Material Material identification 3.4.1 NAWC PD 4672-14-02 Interlining Bond strength 3.4.2 AATCC 135: 1, V, Ai 2/

AATCC-136, paragraph 11 Thread Material identification 3.4.3 A-A-50199 Slide fastener Material identification 3.4.4 A-A-55634 Snap fasteners Material identification 3.4.5 MIL-DTL-10884 Elastic webbing Material identification 3.4.6 MIL-W-5664 Waistband Waistband construction 3.4.6.1 4.7 Label Material identification 3.4.7.1 MIL-DTL-32075 Toxicity Material performance 3.4.8 4.6

1/ All examinations and tests specified in the referenced document.

2/ Testing will be conducted on end item after 3 launderings.

4.4.2 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process necessary to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished trousers shall be classified as a defect in accordance with MIL-STD-1488 and Table X of this document and shall be removed from production.

4.4.3 End item visual inspection. The end items shall be visually inspected for compliance to paragraphs 3.3, 3.4.7.1, 3.4.7.2, 3.6, 3.7 and 3.9. The trousers shall be examined for defects in shade, design, construction and workmanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with MIL-STD-1488 for utility trousers and Table X.

TABLE X: Classification of additional end item visual defects.

Defect Point Value

a. All production and shade tickets shall be removed upon completion of the trousers.

b. Shade.

1. Basic material not as specified.

2. Component color not as specified.

c. Snap Fastener defects.

1. Socket and stud missing, loose, defective or mismated.

2. Snap fastener not as specified.

3. Center of socket or stud off center of waistband by more than 1/4 inch.

4. Socket or stud missing, loose, defective or mismated.

d. Barcode label.

1. Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible, not visible on folded, packaged item,

2. Causes damage to the item.

4.4.3.1 Bartack counting. All stitches (diagonal, vertical, horizontal) shall be included in the bar tack count (see 3.6), when tested in accordance with ASTM D6193.

4.4.4 End item dimensional examination. The finished trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.8, Table VI and per Table XI. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit shall be one trouser. The trousers shall be measured utilizing Figure 1 (Front view trouser) and 2 (Back view trouser) as reference. All measurements shall be taken on a flat surface with the trousers’ slide fastener and snap in the closed positions. Any measurement deviation from the dimensions and tolerances as specified in Table VI shall be scored as a size measurement defect in accordance with MIL-STD-1488.

TABLE XI. End item dimensional examination

Measurement Location

Measurement Instruction

A 1/2 Waist Relaxed With elastic inserts relaxed, measure along center of waistband from outside folded edge to folded edge.

B 1/2 Waist Stretched

Rotate 1/2 waist so that elastic is in the approximate center to prevent the hands or stretching device from restricting the elastic from fully elongating. Stretch waist until fully extended without excessive force, measure along center of waistband from outside folded edge to folded edge.

C Inseam

Measure inseam of trousers from center of crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser leg.

D Outseam

Measure from top edge of waist to bottom of leg along out seam.

Measurement Location

Measurement Instruction

E Bottom Leg Opening

Measure across bottom of leg from outside folded edge to folded edge.

4.5 Figures. Figures are for informational purposes only. When discrepancies exist between figures and the purchase description text, the purchase description shall govern.

4.6 Toxicity Test. When required (see 6.2) an actute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the trousers’ cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure cited under the Principles and Methods of Toxicology. If the toxicity requirement can be demonstrated with historical use data, the procuring agency may elect not to require toxicity. (see 6.2).

4.7 Waistband. A Constant Rate of Extension (CRE) with a loading rate of 20.0 inches per minute shall be used. The crosshead shall be moved 1.5 inches for a total of 5.5 inches. The resulting force shall be recorded at a rate of 10 points per second. The graph shall be evaluated to record the force separately at 3/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch extension. The sample shall meet requirements when the 3/4 inch extension does not exceed 1.5 pounds of the elongation force and not less than 0.5 pounds of the elongation force, and the 1-1/2 inch extension does not exceed 4 pounds of the elongation force and not less than 1-1/2 pounds of the elongation force. The sample must demonstrate acceptable performance at both extensions to pass the requirement.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended for wear by Navy personnel on the flight decks of ships.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Sizes and lengths required (see 1.2)

c. National stock number

d. Applicable drawings, including revisions, and Government patterns (see 3.5)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

i. When toxicity testing is required. (see 4.6)

j. Conformance inspection and acceptable quality levels. (4.3.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Information requests. For access to information such as Purchase Description, patterns, standard samples, contact the procuring activity.

6.5 Elastic webbing for waistband suggested source of supply. The suggested source of supply for the waistband elastic webbing and alternate pocketing is QST Industries Inc., 231 South Jefferson Street, Chicago, IL 60661, 312-930-9400.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Material, flame resistant Flight Deck Trouser Pants Bottoms

6.7 Toxicity. Further information on chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection

Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens may be found online at http://www.epa.gov/ebtpages/pollutants.html or from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy-AS Navy - AS

DLA-CT

Review Activities:

Navy-NU

FIGURE 1 – Front View Trouser

E

A and B

C

D

FIGURE 2 – Back View Trouser