Final WP-PD-21-01 C0053 4-21-2022-SPECS.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

WP-PD-21-01

21 April 2022

SUPERSEDING

PD C0053

12 March 2012

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER / COTTON, WHITE (Local Stock Number C0053)

(NOTE: This document supersedes the purchase description for C0053 dated 12 March 2012 and any other document for C0053 before the date of this document.)

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. The twill cloth is a polyester/cotton blend for United States Military Academy (USMA) Cadet India White Coats, Trousers, and Skirts.

1.2 Classification. This cloth will be available in one (1) type, as specified.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-3064 - Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of these (this) documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019, and the Cadet Uniform Factory (CUF), 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY, 10996, ATTN: ASCE-LWP-CU.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

WP-PD-21-01

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 16 CFR Part 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20 - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM117 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC TM124 - Test Method for Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering

AATCC TM130 - Test Method for Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

https://www.ecfr.gov/ https://aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D3774 - Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.4 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Materials.

3.6.1 Description. The cloth shall meet the physical and color requirements of Table I when tested as specified in Table III.

https://www.astm.org/

TABLE I. Physical and color requirements.

# Requirement Requirement Details Tolerance 1 Fiber Content, percent 65% Polyester /

35% Combed Cotton (+/- 3%)

2 Finished Weight, oz./sq. yd. 7.4 - 7.10 ---- 3 Weave 3/1 or 2/1

Left Hand Twill (see Figure 1)

4 Finished Count, yarns per inch Warp Fill (Weft)

77 to 87 47 to 57

5 Finished Width, inches 64 - 65 ---- 6 Tensile Strength, pounds

Filling

Minimum

7 Tear Strength, pounds

Filling

7.5

8 Colorfastness to: (grade) 1/ Laundering one (1) cycle -Shade Change Laundering with bleach one (1) cycle

- Shade Change Dry Cleaning - Shade Change Heat-Dry (excluding pressing) Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/ (m2nm) @ 420nm)

- Shade Change Perspiration (acid and alkaline)

- Shade Change 2/

Minimum Minimum

Minimum

Minimum

9 pH 5.0 to 8.5 ---- 10 Dimensional stability, (percent), Two (2) cycles Warp and Filling Laundering Dry Cleaning

See 3.6.3.1 See 3.6.3.2

Maximum Maximum

11 Soil Release Finish See 3.6.4 ---- 12 Smoothness appearance 4 Minimum 13 Transparency Initial & after 1 Laundering Pass/Acceptable 3/ ---- 14 Toxicity Pass/Acceptable

(see 3.7)

1/ Only the color change shall be evaluated. Must not yellow or darken with commercial laundering

2/ Must maintain shade against heavy perspiration 3/ Must show NO transparency when worn as finished garment before and after laundering.

FIGURE 1. Weave, Left Hand Twill

3.6.2 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be natural or bleached to meet the standard sample (see 3.3) for India White and shall meet the colorfastness requirements of Table I when tested as specified in Table III. The use of dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyed cloth shall be “Free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.6.1.

3.6.2.1 Visual shade matching. Shade shall match USMA standard sample for this white cloth when tested as specified in 4.5. The Logistics Readiness Center (LRC) at West Point shall determine acceptability of samples submitted.

3.6.3 Dimensional stability.

3.6.3.1 Laundering. The shrinkage or elongation both in the warp and filling of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 3.5 percent in either direction for the individual sample unit and not greater than 3.0 percent in either direction for the lot average when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.6.3.2 Drycleaning. The shrinkage or elongation both in the warp and filling of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 3.5 percent in either direction for the individual sample unit and not greater than 3.0 percent in either direction for the lot average when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.6.4 Finish. A pre-cured soil release finish shall be applied to the cloth when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.7 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.

3.8 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 75 yards. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in 5.1. Two (2) or more pieces joined together regardless of length will not be accepted.

3.9 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with Title 16 CFR Part, Rules and regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.10 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractor’s own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects listed in 4.4 and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.5 and 4.6.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the visual examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.5 through 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQLs) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.3.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified in this specification or applicable procurements documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with this specification and all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.4 Visual examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects in accordance with Type I of MIL-STD-3064 and Table II.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

TABLE II. Defects.

Defect Classification

Major Minor Material defects Outside-Any hole, cut, rip or tear, or weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, needle chew, loose slub, pull, or other mill flaws, fabric cut on wrong side, stamping marks, color not as specified. 1/

Visible lines, mend, broken or missing yarn, misweave or weave issues, thin place, Stains or spots, or stray yarns woven in, pulls, shade part/bar greater than 1/4-inch, Tight selvage or stretched fabric, Baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth Any embedded foreign matter or overall uncleanness 2/ 102 Inside – Defects listed above not affecting the performance serviceability and appearance. 201 Overall application of finish not uniform 103 Objectionable odor 3/ 104

1/ The same yardage shall be given a through-lighting inspection for pinholes and thinly coated areas.

2/ Clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3-feet) by either direct viewing or through-lighting.

3/ Normal residual odor of chemicals used shall not be regarded objectionable.

4.4.1 Yard by yard examination. The yard by yard examination shall be as specified in MIL-STD-3064. A random sample totaling not less than 10% of total yardage ordered on the contract shall be examined yard-by-yard for defects. All rolls comprising the random sample shall be identified as an “Examination Sample” on its respective Identification Tag.

4.4.2 Roll identification and marking examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.3 Shade variation examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation as specified in MIL-STD-3064. Any roll off shade;

shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finished appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.4 Length examination. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5 Visual shade matching (all Classes). The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C (see 6.6), with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) K illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200) K.

4.6 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table III. The methods of testing as specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed.

All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE III. Test methods.

# Requirement Requirement Paragraph

Test Method

1 Fiber Content, percent Table I AATCC TM20 2 Finished Weight, oz./sq. yd. Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M 3 Weave Table I Visual 4 Finished Count

Warp and Fill (Weft)

Table I

ASTM D3775

5 Finished Width, inches Table I ASTM D3774 6 Tensile Strength, pounds

Warp and Filling

ASTM D5034

7 Tear Strength, pounds Warp and Filling

ASTM D1424

8 Colorfastness to: (minimum grade) 1/ Laundering one (1) cycle -Shade Change Laundering with bleach one (1) cycle -Shade Change Dry Cleaning

- Shade Change Heat-Dry (excluding pressing)

– Shade Change Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm) @ 420nm) -Shade Change Perspiration (acid and alkaline) -Shade Change

AATCC TM61, 2A 1/

AATCC TM61, 2A 1/

AATCC TM132 1/

AATCC TM117 1/

AATCC TM16.3 Option 3 1/

AATCC TM15 1/

9 pH Table I AATCC TM81 10 Dimensional stability, (percent), After two (2) Laundering cycles Warp and Filling After two (2) Dry Cleaning Warp and Filling

Table I & 3.6.3.1

3.6.3.2

AATCC TM135 2/

AATCC TM158

TABLE III. Test methods. - Continued

# Requirement Requirement Paragraph

Test Method

11 Soil Release Finish Table I & 3.6.4

AATCC TM130

12 Smoothness of Fabric Table I AATCC TM124 13 Transparency

Initial & after (3) Launderings

Visual & Initial & after

AATCC TM135 2/

14 Toxicity 3.7 4.6.2 1/ Rated using the AATCC EP1.

2/ Laundered using conditions (1) (V) (Aiii).

4.6.1 Presence of labile sulfur. In the determination of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2) 1.50 gram (± 0.01) gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 millimeters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a 5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution contains 5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100 milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear, add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows.

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration of staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

The rating shall be recorded. The results shall be recorded as “pass” or “fail”.

4.6.2 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.7) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.6 and 6.7).

5. PACKAGING.

(All packaging and storage shall follow current practices of the CUF at the USMA.)

5.1 Packaging. Each piece of cloth shall be rolled onto a sufficiently sturdy and smooth commercial cardboard tube as to not crush in storage, movement, or shipping of the cloth roll.

Exterior- end of each roll shall be secured within the package as not to unroll or unfurl.

Each roll shall be enclosed in a commercial clear tubular bag of polyethylene film or other suitable clear material to protect the cloth from soiling and degradation in shipping and storage.

Bags shall be closed with mechanical ties (twist-ties or cable ties) of suitable weight to secure the closure of the bag through shipping and storage. A complete package of cloth shall weigh no more than 105 pounds.

5.2 Marking. Each roll of cloth shall have a Piece Ticket and Identification Tag affixed to it.

5.2.1 Piece ticket. Each roll shall have a Piece Ticket affixed to the closure of the tubular bag with a cotton string or a plastic tag hanger. The Piece Ticket shall have a reinforced eyelet.

At a minimum, the Piece Ticket shall be clearly and legibly marked with the cloth description, local CUF stock number “C0053”, and the net linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll in the bag. Additional information may be placed on the Piece Ticket but no less. Markings on the Piece Ticket shall be legibly printed, using water insoluble ink (see Figure 2).

5.2.2 Identification Tag. Each clear tubular bag shall be marked with an Identification Tag.

The Identification Tag shall indicate at a minimum the contractor name, contractor address, contract number, local CUF stock number “C0053”, cloth description, and the net linear yardage of the finished cloth on the roll in the bag. Additional information may be placed on the Identification Tag but no less. Identification Tags shall have minimum dimensions of 2.4-inches x 4-inches, and shall be completely legible as affixed to the bag. The Identification Tag shall be affixed to the bag approximately 3-inches in from the selvage edge closest to closure end of the bag. See Figure 2.

FIGURE 2. Tag Locations.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. This cloth is intended to be used in the USMA India White coat, trousers, and skirt worn by the USMA Cadet.

6.1.1 Purchase Descriptions that use WP-PD-21-01:

WP-PD-21-11 - Coat, India White WP-PD-21-12 - Trousers, India White, Men’s

Piece Tag

WP-PD-21-13 - Trousers, India White, Women’s WP-PD-22-02 - Skirt, India White

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following

a. Title, number, and date of this specification

b. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3)

c. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2)

d. Width of cloth required (see 3.6.1)

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.7, 4.6.2)

f. Length required if other than specified (see 3.8)

g. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQLs) (see 4.3)

h. Inspection conditions (see 4.3.1)

i. Packaging (see 5.)

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to standard samples and patterns contact the following:

ASCE-LWP-CU, Cadet Uniform Factory (CUF), 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY 10996

6.5 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC EP9, Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5º) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90o angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.6 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, conduct in accordance with Title 40 of the Code of Federal Regulations, current editions and applicable sections, which are consistent with OECD tests: Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1).

Dermal sensitization: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100

Dermal toxicity: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250.

6.7 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250

6.8 Subject terms (key word) listing.

Coat India White (IW) Skirt Trouser

USMA

West Point

Custodians: Preparing Activity Army - GL Army-GL

Reviewing Activity

ASCE-LWP-CU CADET UNIFORM FACTORY, (CUF)