CollarCuffs PD.docx

23 January 2018 USMA Purchase Description Collar and Cuffs, Cadet (U.S.M.A.)

1. Scope

1.1 Scope- This purchase description covers a fused collar and cuff set.

1.2 Classification- The collar and cuffs are one type in the following sizes (see 6.2):

Schedule of Sizes

18-1/2

2. Application Documents

2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein.

Specifications

Standards

(Copies of specification, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer).

2.2 Other Publications. - The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless a specific issue is identified, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply:

National Motor Freight Traffic Association, Inc., Agent

National Motor Freight Classification

(Application for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Associations, Ins. Traffic Order Section, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036).

Uniform Classification Committee, Agent

Uniform Freight Classification

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606).

3. Requirements

3.1 Guide samples. – Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the supplier (see 6.3). Variation from this purchase description may appear in the sample, in which case this purchase description shall govern.

3.2 Materials. –

3.2.1 Basic material. – The basic material shall be a bleached, cotton, broadcloth or a bleached cotton print cloth.

3.2.1.1 Broadcloth. – The broadcloth shall conform to type II, class 1 of CCC-C-437.

3.2.1.2 Print cloth. – The print cloth shall be a plain weave with a minimum weight of 3.6 ounces per square yard, a minimum of 80 warp and 78 filling yarns per inch, a minimum breaking strength of 48 pounds in the warp direction and 40 pounds in the filling direction, and a shrinkage of not more than 1.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction when tested as specified in 4.2.1.

3.2.2 Interlining laminating cloth. – The interlining, laminating cloth shall conform to MIL-C-43626. The laminating cloth shall be fused to both plies of the basic material of the collar and cuffs by the application of solvent, heat and pressure (see operation 7). There shall be no separation of the plies when subjected to five launderings when tested as specified in 4.2.3. The laminated collar and cuffs shall have a stiffness of 0.320 load-pounds minimum and 0.620 load-pounds maximum in the warp and 0.150 load-pounds minimum and 0.350 load-pounds maximum in the filling when tested as specified in 4.2.3. The shade of the laminated collar and cuffs shall be white and shall match the standard sample. Discoloration shall not be greater than that of the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.2.3.

3.2.3 Thread. – The thread for seaming and buttonholes shall be white AH, C.A. 66050, type IA2, ticket no. 60, 2-ply, or IC2, ticket no. 00, 3-ply, conforming to V-T-276.

3.2.4 Instruction label. – An instruction label measuring not less than 2-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches shall be packaged with each box of collars or cuffs. The printing media shall be black, printed on white paper with capitals 1/8 inch in height and all other type 1/16 inch in height. The label shall contain the following information:

Washing Instructions

Slightly Soiled:

1. Clean with hand brush, soap and warm water.

2. Rinse under faucet – DO NOT WRING.

3. Dry on towel.

Badly Soiled:

1. Wash in warm soapy water.

2. Rinse and dry as above.

3. Iron with moderate iron.

3.2.5 Label (identification and size). – The identification-size label shall conform to type IV, class 9. The inscription, in characters of not less than 10-point in size, shall be “West Point” and the size of the item. The color fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply.

3.3 Design. – The collar and cuffs consist of two plies of material fused together with an interlining. The collar is approximately 1-1/4 ≠ 1/16 and the cuffs 3-1/2 ≠ 1/8 inches wide. The length of the top edge of the collar is 1/2 inch less than the bottom edge. The ends of the collar are angular and the ends of the cuff are rounded at the bottom edge. The cuffs have a buttonhole at each end. The cuffs are attached to the sleeves of a coat by means of snap fasteners that are added at time of issue.

3.4 Figure. – Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between this purchase description and the figure, the purchase description shall control.

3.5 Patterns. – Patterns, shall provide a 3/16 or ¼ inch for joining the two plies of the collar and cuffs and 3/8 or 1/2 inch for closing the collar and cuffs. See figure for finished dimensions.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. - The collar and cuffs shall be cut from materials as specified, in accordance with pattern parts indicated, and in the number of cut parts required.

TABLE I. – List of pattern parts

3.6 Construction. –

3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. – Stitch, seam and stitch types specified in table II are those covered by FED-STD-751. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start to finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching.

3.6.2 Stitches per inch. – The minimum and maximum number of stiches per inch shall be as specified in table II.

3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. – Ends of all stitching, when not caught in other stitching shall be backtracked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. – The collar and cuffs shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in table II. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed. Any additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided thread is removed or does not show on the finished collar or cuffs.

3.7.1 Marking. – Where marking is specified for insuring a uniform shade and size, any method may be used except:

Table II Stitch Type

Cut the collar and cuffs in strict accordance with patterns which show shape, directional lines and placement for buttonholes.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages, as classified in 4.2.2.1 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Mark, ticket or bundle all parts to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the set.

a. With the basic material face to face stitch the two plies of basic material and the interlining together along top and side edges of both collar, and cuffs. The ply of basic material that is next to the interlining shall be the outside of the collar and cuffs. (The seam allowance will be next to the underside when finished).

00-3 60-2 or 00-3

b. Turn collar and cuffs to the right side and edge stitch the top and side edges of collar and bottom and side edges of cuffs 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. The underside shall not be exposed along the edge on the outside of finished collar or cuffs.

00-3 60-2 or

00-3 60-2 or

Make a 5/8-inch cut-length buttonhole, tacked at both ends, at the end of each cuff. The buttonhole shall be parallel to and 1-1/4 ≠ 1/16 inch from the bottom edge of cuff (side with the curved ends), and the end of the cut shall be 5/8 ≠ 1/16 inch from the side edge of cuff. If a purl type buttonhole is used the purling shall be on the underside of the cuff. The buttonholes may be made after the fusing operation (operation 7).

00-3 60-2 or 00-3

Clean all thread ends and remove loose threads, shade tickets, spots and stains.

Wet fuse on an acetone soaked press and set on a dry press (see 3.2.2).

a. Position the marking to the right of center on the underside of the collar with the top of the lettering toward the top of the collar.

b. Center the marking on the underside of each cuff with the top of the lettering toward the bottom of the cuff (side with curved ends). A one inch off center tolerance shall be acceptable.

3.8 Finished measurements. – The finished measurements shall conform to all measurements shown in table III.

TABLE III – Finished measurements in Inches:

Size- Collar tolerance

Size- Cuffs tolerance

3.9 Workmanship. - The finished collar, and cuff set shall conform to the quality of the product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality level.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. – Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this purchase description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Quality conformance inspection sampling. - Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated herein after.

4.2.1 Component and material inspection. – In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this Purchase Description or applicable purchase documents. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, testing shall be performed on the components listed in table IV for characteristics noted. Wherever applicable tests shall be conducted in accordance with methods prescribed in FED-STD-191.

4.2.1.1 Quality conformance inspection sampling. – Unless otherwise specified in subsidiary specifications, sampling for testing shall be in accordance with table below. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The sample unit for testing the print cloth (see 3.2.1.2) shall be 2-1/4 yards full width. The lot size shall be expressed in yards. All test reports shall contain the individual values used in expressing the final result.

TABLE IV. – Test methods

Yarns per inch

- Warp

- Filling

Breaking Strength (pounds)

- Filling

Shrinkage (percent)

- Filling

1/ A certificate of compliance may be substituted for this requirement.

4.2.2 Examination of end item. – The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in 4.2.2.1. The sample unit shall be one collar and cuff set.

4.2.2.1 Defects – one class. –

- Stitching not securely caught in fabric plies, causing stitches to pull away from fabric.

- One or more not tacked at both ends.

- One or more out of parallel alignment by more than 1/16 inch.

- One or more less than 1-3/16 or more than 1-5/16 inches from the bottom edge of cuff (side with curved ends).

- One or more with the end of the cut less than 9/16 or more than 11/16 inch from side edge of cuff.

- More than two skipped, or one or more broken stitches in one or more buttonhole.

- Cut length of buttonhole more or less than 5/8 inch long by 1/16 inch or more.

- Purl type buttonhole (when applicable) purling on top side of cuff.

- Thread end(s) not trimmed, or thread ends(s) not removed.

- Unsightly slub or shade bar.

- Needle chew, cut, tear or mend.

- Edges and points not forced out prior to fusing.

- Fusing omitted or incomplete.

- Poorly fused resulting in permanent creases, friction marks.

- Ends of seam(s) or stitching, when not caught in other seam(s) or stitching, backtacked less than ¼ inch.

- Less than 1/16 inch or more than 1/8 inch from edge.

- Not specified stitch type.

4.2.2.2 Size measurements. –

Cuff (two each)

4.2.2.3 Acceptable quality levels. – The inspection levels and the acceptable quality levels expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) are as follows:

For 4.2.2.1 One class

For 4.2.2.2 One class

4.2.3 Testing of the end item. – The end item shall be tested as specified in table V. All requirements shall be applicable to the individual sample unit. The sample unit shall be one laminated cuff. The sample size shall be as specified in 4.2.1.1, and the lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units fail to meet any of the requirements specified.

TABLE V. – End item testing

Method Results Reported as

Stiffness (load pounds)

- Filling

1/ The laminated collar and cuffs shall be subjected to five complete laundering cycles in accordance with laundering procedure for cotton outlined in Test Method 5556 of FED-STD-191.

2/ The determinations per sample unit shall be 1.

3/ Except that exposure of the specimen and standard sample shall be for 20 standard fading hours. Any specimen showing discoloration less than or equal to that of the standard sample shall be rated “satisfactory”. Any specimen showing discoloration greater than that of the standard sample shall be rated “unsatisfactory”.

4.2.4 Examination of preparation for delivery requirements. - An examination shall be made to determine that packaging, packing and marking comply with the section 5 requirements of this purchase description. Defects shall be scored in accordance with list below. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery with the exception that it need not be closed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined on shipping containers fully prepared for delivery. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspection levels shall be S-2 and the AQL shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units.

Bulged or distorted container.

Number of collar or cuffs (as applicable) per intermediate package is more or less than required. 1/

Size shown on one or more collars or cuffs (as applicable) not as specified on container. 1/

1/ For this defect, two intermediate packages from each container in the sample shall be examined.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1 Packaging (see 6.2). – Eight collars or Six cuffs (3 pairs) shall be tied into bundles accordingly. Twelve bundles of collars or cuffs shall be placed in snug-fitting boxes. When the total contract quantity of both collars and cuffs does not warrant more than one box, the collars and cuffs may be packaged in one box.

5.2 Packing (see 6.2). – Four boxes packaged as specified in 5.1 shall be packed in a carton in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at destination at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. Containers shall be in accordance with Uniform Freight Classification Rules or National Motor Freight Classification Rules, as applicable. When the total contract quantity, or the final shipment, consists of less than four boxes, boxes of collars and boxes of cuffs may be placed in the same carton.

5.3 Marking. – In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order, interior packages and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

5.3.1 Labels, mixed sizes. – Each shipping container, packed with mixed collars and cuffs shall have securely attached to the end and side, directly under the printing or stenciling, a white paper label 5- by 4-inches with the words “MIXED ITEMS” plainly stamped or printed thereon, and under these words shall be legibly stamped or printed the correct quantity each item with sizes contained therein.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended use. – The collars and cuffs are intended for wear by cadets of the United States Military Academy.

6.2 Ordering data. – Procurement documents should specify the following:

6.3 Sample and shade samples. – For access to sample of the end item and shade samples of the materials, address the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids.

Project No. 8440-F002

Defects

Evaluation Criteria – Cuffs & Collars, Cadet (PD# 368) Purpose: To establish the criteria that the Cuff & Collar sample(s) shall be evaluated against to determine the acceptability of the sample to the Government.

1. The color of the sample shall be visually inspected for consistency at the seams. The material that meets at the same shall not have a noticeable variance in color. When there is a noticeable difference in color this will be a major defect.

2. The seams will be checked for consistency and quality. The seams shall not have breaks and the stitching shall be smooth. It shall be considered a major defect if there are two or more breaks in the stitching or any excessive rough areas due to excessive overlapping stitches.

3. The Cuff & Collar samples shall be visually inspected to check for any;

4. The sample shall include the Instruction label referenced in 3.2.4. The label shall be checked for all specified requirements, size and printed content. Failure to provide the label or include all requirements listed shall constitute a major defect and result in sample to be determined unacceptable to the Government.

5. The sample shall be checked for the stamp/label required in 3.2.5. Omitting the stamp/label on the Cuff or Collar shall be a major defect.

6. The samples shall be checked for excessive bulking. The sample shall lay essentially flat when placed on a flat surface. If bulking results in any side or end of the Cuff sample to raise more than 3/8 of an inch in the air or the Collar to raise more than 1/2 inch in the air the sample shall have a major defect.

7. Compliance with 3.7.1 shall be checked, non-compliance shall be a major defect.

8. Size compliance with the requirements in Table III for both the Collar and Cuff shall be checked, deviation or noncompliance shall be considered a major defect.

9. The Government shall apply snaps to the Cuff sample and install into the appropriate sized coat to check for fit. Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect. The Government will install a collar into an appropriate size coat. Failure of the sample to provide a fit consistent with the uniform standards shall be a major defect.

10. Section 4 applies and where applicable ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes applies.

26 January 2018

USMA PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

ADDENDUM

CLOTH, BROADCLOTH, COTTON MERCERIZED, BLEACHED, WHITE

FOR CADET WHITE CUFFS AND COLLARS

Cadet Services Division of the Directorate of Logistics of the United States Military Academy has authorized the use of this purchase description in preference to CCC-C437-A, CCC-C437-B, CCC-C437-C, CCC-C437-D and A-A-50160. This copy has been revised 4 January 2008 in format only.

252 CLASSIFICATION

252.247 Types and classes. The cloth shall be what was Type II, Class 1 as appeared in previous Specifications and Commercial Item Descriptions and shall be referred to as such for the purposes of this purchase description.

Type II – 3.2 ounces per square yard Class 1 – Bleached

253 SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

253.247 General. The cloth shall be a plain weave using single or ply cotton yarns. The color shall be bleached white as specified. The finished cloth shall be singed, de-sized, and mercerized. The width shall be 47 inches and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage when fly-shuttle looms or shuttleless looms with tuck-in selvages are used. For all other shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).

253.248 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in table I.

TABLE I. Physical Requirements Weight per Square Yard

Yarns per inch minimum

Breaking strength (min) Pounds

253.249 Bleached cloth (Class 1). White is the specified color. The cloth shall be chemically bleached white and may be supplemented with optical brighteners, which fluoresce to the blue region. The degree of whiteness shall match the USMA standard sample.

253.250 Shrinkage. The cloth shall be preshrunk to a residual shrinkage of not more than 1.0 percent in either direction of the warp or of the filling after 20 industrial launderings for cotton broad cloth using bleach.

253.251 Put-up. The cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths of not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up in rolls as specified in 4.1. Weighting approximately 125 pounds each.

253.252 Marking. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the word “FACE” at each end of the piece.

254 QUALITY ASURANCE

254.247 Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of the description and conforms to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices, and is the same as the product offered for sale in commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract.

255 PACKAGING

255.247 Packaging. The cloth shall be on a convolute or spiral-wound chipboard tube. The tube shall have a smooth finish that will prevent the fibers of the chipboard from transferring to the cloth. Each roll of cloth, put-up as specified, shall be wrapped with protective covering of 60-pound minimum basis weight kraft paper, plastic or other suitable covering to protect the roll from contact with dirt, dust, water and oil.

ASCE-DRM-CO

29 January 2018

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION DEVIATION AND ADDITION TO:

NLABS PD #368 (24 AUG 1973), COLLAR AND CUFFS, CADET (U.S.M.A.)

This deviation eliminates all reference to MILITARY SPECIFICATION MIL-C-43626 – Cloth, Interlining, Acetate and Cotton in NLABS PD #368, and supersedes all previous changes and deviations.

1.2 Schedule of sizes- Add Men’s Collar Sizes 19, 19-1/2, 20, 20-1/2, and 21. Add Women’s Collar Sizes 13-1/2, 14 and 14-1/2. Add Cuff sizes 9-1/2, 13, 13-1/2, 14 and 14-1/2. Additional sizes shall be graded accordingly to table III of section 3.8.

3.2.2 Interlining laminating cloth- All US Army and Natick Lab copies of MIL-C-43626 have been eliminated and destroyed. Therefore, in lieu of a specification, the contractor shall use any interlining or commercially available fusible interlining cloth which will impart stiffness to the finished cuffs and collars, will not discolor the white color of the broadcloth, and will not separate from the broad cloth through launderings of finished cuffs and collars as described in the body of paragraph 3.2.2.

3.3 Design- The width of the Men’s Collar shall be changed from 1-1/4” (+/- 1/16”) to 1-5/16” (+/- 1/16”). The width of the Women’s Collar shall be changed from 1-1/4” (+/- 1/16”) to 1-1/16” (+/- 1/16”).

ADDITIONS to NLABS PD 368:

In addition to performance described above and in NLABS PD 368 and unless the Government specifically directs in writing to the contrary, the Contractor shall securely apply four (4) female snap-fasteners (snaps) onto each cuff. There are circumstances in which the Government may specifically request all or a portion of an order of white cuffs not have snaps applied to the white cuffs. Governments request will indicate “Without Snaps” or “With Snaps” for each line item of the purchase/solicitation/contract. For guidance on proper positioning of snaps onto cuffs, see Table I, “Snap Positioning Specifications for White Cuffs” found on page 2 of Deviations and Additions to NLABS PD 368.

Female snaps applied to white cuffs shall provide a secure closure with corresponding male snaps that had been applied into the sleeves of USMA Uniform Coats and Overcoats. Note, the corresponding male snaps are applied into sleeves of USMA Cadet Coats and Overcoats by the manufacturer of those coats. To ensure a secure closure between male and female snaps, the female snaps applied to cuffs shall be, or equivalent to: Scovill Fasteners (GSG Fasteners, LLC, dba Scovill Fasteners 1802 Scovill Drive Clarkesville, GA 30523) Item Number 64K6912-4505, #15 Socket in White Bronze Plate; and the corresponding required prong, Scovill Fasteners Item Number 64K3275-4505, Prong #15 LG O/P also in White Bronze Plate.

Deviations and Additions to NLABS PD 368. Page 1 of 2

ASCE-DRM-CO

Snap Positioning Specifications for White Cuffs.

Additional requirement to NLABS PD 368 (24 Aug 73) All measurements are in inches Snap position is measured from the center of the circular female snap to the respective edge of the cuff All four (4) snaps shall be 1-5/16” (-0 / + 1/16”) from the bottom edge of the cuff, the side with the curved ends.

Table I.

Cuff Size (inches) (+1/4” to – 0”)

Tollerance for all snap positioning in Table I is +/- 1/16”

Deviation and Additions to NLABS PD 368 Page 2 of 2 image1.emf