Attachment 5 Metal Building Installation.pdf

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR

SIERRA STYLE BUILDING

All illustrations in these instructions are examples of the style of structure you have purchased and are not to scale. Please check provided drawings, if applicable, for your specific structure layout.

ATTENTION

Read the following safety warnings and all instructions (including any extra instructions, if given) in their entirety, prior to installation.

If you are using a contractor or hired person(s) to install your structure, please insist that party read the instructions and watch our installation videos. On a regular basis, mistakes are made by “professionals” who do not avail themselves of our experience and knowledge of our products. Do not neglect to do this. Absolute Steel is not responsible for the liability and/or costs associated with faulty or improper installations.

Your structure may come with a truss assembly (check material lists and/or provided drawings).

We test fit truss parts before fabricating to make sure your specific assembly fits together correctly at your site.

Our steel structures are packaged tightly. If you think you are missing any parts, please make sure you have taken the bundle(s) apart completely to make sure. Sometimes, colored screws may arrive with the panels in the event that they are not stock colors and have to come directly from the panel company.

If you have purchased additional Engineering Plans, be sure to check them over in case any instructions or parts are different than these instructions.

Our unique assembly process quickly transforms the individual pieces into a finished structure that will give you a lifetime of service. Great care has been taken to ensure complete satisfaction with your purchase. If you need technical assistance, please visit https://www.youtube.com/user/actfastfirst/videos for video assistance. Please keep in mind that these videos may not be the same kind of structure you have purchased. They show basic installation procedures. This given instruction booklet is more up to date for your specific structure. If there are any differences between the videos and this booklet, then follow this booklet first.

Most Brackets are provided with pre-drilled holes. If holes do not line up perfectly for screws to go into frame, then the self-drilling screws can go through bracket plate(s) and then into frame.

If you have any other questions or still think that you are missing any parts or a part may be incorrect, please contact Absolute Steel customer service at 1-877-833-3237 before proceeding.

https://www.youtube.com/user/actfastfirst/videos

SAFETY AND HAZARD INSTRUCTIONS:

WARNING:

Metal parts may get hot when exposed to high heat or direct sunlight. Avoid contact with skin and wear protective gloves and clothing to prevent the possibility of burns.

WARNING:

Avoid installation on windy days as wind may create hazards during the installation process. Wind may blow material or cause partially installed components to collapse prior to being secured or fully installed. The weight of the components or structure may cause serious injury if it should collapse.

WARNING:

Metal conducts electricity and electrical shock hazards exist since the structure is made of metal. During installation or storage, keep the structure and all components away from electrical sources. Make sure that your selected location is away from power lines, underground cables and any other source of electrical power. Serious injury or even death may occur if contact is made with electrical current.

WARNING:

If the structure is moved once it has been installed, be certain to inspect all components and conditions and follow each and every step of these instructions to make certain that the structure is securely anchored, properly installed and aligned. Failure to follow these steps could lead to collapse of the structure and may result in serious risk of injury or even death.

WARNING:

In the event that your structure is enclosed, be sure to provide proper and adequate ventilation and egress and ingress. Hazardous, poisonous or noxious substances should not be stored in the structures absent proper ventilation and the following all warnings and instructions of the manufacturer of the substance. Also, proper ingress and egress should be provided to prevent persons or children from becoming trapped inside the structure.

WARNING:

If metal panels are selected to cover all or a portion of your structure, be careful of the sharp edges which may cause cuts, lacerations or other injury. Wear protective work gloves and suitable clothing for protection and always take care when handling metal parts.

WARNING:

Always wear safety glasses or goggles when installing self-drilling screws.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

One must be able to comfortably reach the peak of the building 10‟ to 20' high Depending on building width and height. An Extension ladder can also be helpful when installing sheet metal. Mechanical lifts will be needed for taller buildings. Some items may not be needed for your specific structure, depending on size, style and material.

Reach Forklifts are available at most rental yards. Most rental companies will rent by the half day or have a minimum rental.

Wait until the roof/wall assembly is complete and the base rails are anchored before you rent the lift and it will probably take less than one hour to stand all of the roof/wall frames.

BASIC BRACKET AND COMPONENT LIST:

DO IT YOURSELF TIPS:

-Steel tubes may be split due to shipping lengths, or others reasons. Be sure to check material list for parts that are split into 2-pieces. If so, then connect together using (4) #12 tek screws per connection.

DO IT YOURSELF TIPS-CONTINUED:

BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY AND SIDE WALL ALIGNMENT:

Assemble the base rails and fasten them to the slab as shown in the instructions. On the four corners of the building make a reference mark on the vertical pin where it joins the horizontal base at the end of the base rail assembly. Chalk a line on the vertical pins for the length of the base rail between the reference marks. Place the roof/wall assemblies on the vertical base rail pins per the installation instructions, do not fasten yet. Using a crowbar, lift the roof wall assemblies up until they are lined up with the chalk line and fasten the roof/wall assembly per the instructions. This is an important step if your concrete slab has irregularities (dips, low spots) in it. Without this step the top of the side wall will follow the irregularities it the concrete. With this step the irregularities are taken out at the slip fit connection. Once you are satisfied that it is at its correct height, then fasten height extensions to baserail pins as shown earlier, using (4) #12x1 tek screws.

Be sure to do this step after your baserails are anchored first and your roof/wall assemblies are assembled together as shown later.

DO IT YOURSELF TIPS-CONTINUED:

DOOR AND WINDOW INSTALLATIONS:

You may wish to cut the base rail when you install your pedestrian or walk door. This will allow the door to be placed on the concrete slab and not have a 2” step to walk over. This can be accomplished using a Sawzall with a metal cutting blade or grinder with a cutoff wheel or a simple hand-held hack saw if that is all you have available.

Be sure to place anchors on the opposite side of vertical frame(s) of the base rail that you are cutting. The easiest way to install the walk doors and windows frame outs is to measure the exact width and length and add ¼” to the measurement to give yourself a little room. Clamp or use one of the three screws to fasten the components to the main frame temporarily. Position the actual door or window in the opening and test fit it. If you have a good fit place the remaining screws in the angle brackets. Cut the trim as shown but do not fasten it to the frame. Set the doors, windows and trim aside. Begin installing the exterior panels. When you come to a window or door opening you can use the frame out as a guide to scribe the panels. Hold the panel in position and use a sharpie or pencil to mark the area to be cut. Cut the panel using tin snips, (aviation shears) or a circular saw with a metal cutting blade.

DOORS:

Position the panel and fasten it to the frame top and bottom. Do not install any fasteners near the door opening, use a clamp instead. This will allow you to slide the J-trim in between the exterior panel and frame. After you have paneled past the opening and cut the appropriate panels, position the pre-hung door in the opening. Fit the J-trim in place similar to the drawings; do not use any fasteners yet. Slide the door into place and position the door jamb so it covers about ¼” of the J-trim, leaving ¾” of the J-trim exposed. Fasten the door to the frame drilling first thru the wood (or metal) jamb and into the steel frame (pre-drill the hole slightly larger than the screw size) sheet rock screws with self drilling tips about 2 3/8” long work well. You may have to use some shims for door alignment. Take a screw out of each hinge on the jamb side and screw into the steel frame for added security. Slide the vertical J-trim against the door jamb and fasten, drilling first thru the exterior panel and then the trim (the long leg) and finally into the frame. Center the J-trim at the top of the door and fasten the panels and trim to the top header. Clear silicone works well to seal between the trim and door jamb.

WINDOWS:

Usually it takes two panels to get past a window opening. Mark and cut the first panel and fasten it temporarily.

Position the second panel and scribe the cut using the frame out as a guide. Cut the trim as shown in the diagram, the verticals should be the exact height of the window and the horizontals should be 2” or maybe 2 ¼” longer than the exposed horizontal (width) of the window. Position the wall panels, position the J-trim in the window opening.

Have a person on the inside of the building slide and hold the window in place with the flange against the frame system. With the panels, trim and window in position; drill (self drilling screw) first thru the panel, then the trim, then the window flange and finally into the frame system. Put a couple of screws in and check the window alignment and operation. If everything is working properly finish installing the fasteners around the window.

ALL EAVE SIDE PEDESTRIAN DOOR AND WINDOW COMPONENTS ARE 2" X 3" TUBE.

SITE PREPARATION FOR GARAGE / SHOP BUILDINGS:

FOUNDATION:

The Absolute Steel Garage / Shop Building frame is designed to be placed on a foundation that is level side to side and front to back or back to front. The foundation can be; prepared ground (leveled and re-compacted), a concrete footing, or a concrete mono slab with built-in footing. It is important that you create one of these conditions prior to your building installation.

We recommend that you check with your local building official prior to starting your project to find out what is acceptable for foundations and anchoring in your city and/or county.

Helpful hint: if you extend the building site about 3 or 4 feet on all sides, it will make it easier to position ladders for sheet metal installation.

If you choose to mount the building to an existing slab, the slab should be at least 4” wider and 6” longer than the building dimensions.

Example: if you have a 20‟ x 20‟-2” frame, the slab should be at least 20‟-4” x 20‟-8”. This will allow the center of your anchor bolts to be 3” from the edge of the slab.

FOOTINGS:

Footings alone should be 12” wide by 12” deep, or 16” wide by 12” deep (depending on building code). Footings should be level front to back or back to front.

SLAB WITH FOOTING:

If you will be pouring a slab for your building, the slab should be 4” thick and have a perimeter footing. The footing should be built according to local building codes with a 45˚ bevel between the slab and footing.

Example:

For IBC-2012 (International Building Code) - 12” wide x 12” deep

The slab should be level side to side and, front to back or back to front. Two continuous runs of #4 rebar top and bottom are recommended in the footing. Check with your local building official for details and requirements in your city and/or county. Some counties require the footing to extend down 12” below the frost line. The concrete should be rated at 2500 to 3000 PSI.

HELPFUL HINT:

For accuracy build the roof / wall systems as shown. This will insure all the frame systems are the same size.

While the frames are in a stack make reference marks for hat channel placement (IF APPLICABLE), reference chart included in following pages.

For the base rails, line up the pins as shown. This step will insure that the building is proportionate on each side.

BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY:

The on-line assisting videos show to put Butyl Tape under the baserails. Do not put Butyl Tape under the baserails unless you have specifically ordered extra Butyl Tape to do so.

Each structure is designed on either a 5‟ On-Center or a 4‟ On-Center frame assembly.

5’ on center systems:

The starter base rails have a net length of 10‟-2” and have 3-vertical pins.

The base extenders measure 10‟ in length and have 2-vertical pins.

The base extensions measure 5‟ in length and have 1-vertical pin.

4’ on center systems:

The starter base rails have a net length of 8‟-2” and have 3-vertical pins.

The base extenders measure 8‟ in length and have 2-vertical pins.

The base extensions measure 4‟ in length and have 1-vertical pin.

Custom baserails may be included if an eave side garage door (or other custom framing) is added to your structure kit. Be sure to check provided drawings (if applicable) and material list.

Insert tubes do not have to be pushed in tight if not needed. Keep this in mind for all inserts for your structure.

Each structure will include 2 starter base rails and as many extenders as are needed to reach the desired structure length. (Structure may also require 2 extensions to reach desired length of structure). To assemble the base-rails, use the diagrams given and follow the instructions below;

1. Place the starter base rail/rails at the front corner/corners of the structure.

2. Add a base extender by inserting it into the previous base rail piece and fasten with (4) #12 Tek screws.

(The placement will be approximately 1” (2 screws) and 3” (2 more screws) from the vertical pin). (Note:

Make certain that the assembly remains straight while you install the screws).

3. Repeat Step-2 until the desired length is reached.

4. Repeat Step-2 for base extensions if required for your specific structure.

5. Repeat Step-1 through Step-4 for other side of structure (if applicable).

6. Structures with Eave Side Garage Doors may require non-standard base rail components, install in likewise fashion and as per attached drawings.

7. Proceed to anchoring of base rails instructions.

Assemble roof/wall frames before you anchor baserails to obtain an accurate width.

BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY-CONTINUED:

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS:

We recommend that you check with your local building official prior to starting your project, to find out what is acceptable for foundations and anchoring in your city and/or county. Only 1 anchor/Z-Clip goes at each vertical framing including corners, unless noted otherwise.

There are four base rail anchoring methods:

1. To a concrete slab or footing with wedge anchor bolts and z-clips.

2. To a concrete slab or footing with j-bolts and z-clips.

3. To the ground with MR-68 MR-88 (“Manta Ray”) ground anchors.

4. To the ground with rebar anchors in concrete caissons.

NOTE: Method #1 is the recommended method for anchoring your structure.

METHOD #1: Anchoring structure to a concrete slab or concrete footings with 3/8”x3-3/4” wedge (expansion) anchor bolts and z-clip anchor bracket.

To make certain your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint, (top surface of the base rail). After making all the necessary measurements and the assembled base rails are squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows;

1. Place a z-clip anchor bracket onto base rail, 4” from frame vertical insert tube; fasten using four #12 x 1” Tek screws-2 on top and 2 on the side. You can use the pre-drilled holes if desired in the Z-Clips.

2. Place your foot on top of the base rail to hold it in place. Using a hammer drill with a 3/8” diameter x 4” long (or longer) concrete drill bit, insert the drill bit through the z-clip anchor bracket hole; drill a 2 5/8” deep hole into the concrete (measured from the top of the concrete).

3. Repeat step 2 for second anchor hole.

4. Assemble two wedge anchor bolts by placing a flat washer and hex nut onto the bolt so that about two threads are exposed above the hex nut.

5. Clean out both anchor holes and place a wedge anchor bolt into each hole. Tap down with a hammer until the washer and nut are touching the top of the z-clip anchor bracket.

6. Using a wrench, tighten each anchor bolt nut until it is snug against the z-clip anchor bracket.

7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for each frame vertical insert tube on each base rail assembly. (Note: In structures without end walls, TWO z-clips are used at the ends.)

After your structure is fully assembled, check all anchor bolts and repeat step 6 to tighten each bolt as necessary.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS (Continued)

METHOD #2:

Anchoring to ground with MR-68 or MR-88 (Manta Ray) ground anchor.

To make certain that your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint, (top surface of the base rail). After making all the necessary measurements and the assembled base rails are squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows;

1. Mark the location of the anchor holes onto the ground.

2. Move base rail assemblies to one side.

3. Thread 36” long anchor rod into anchor.

4. Insert drive rod/steel into anchor.

5. Place anchor into previously marked anchor hole location.

6. Drive anchor to proper depth, (about 2’ to 3’, leaving about 6” to 8” of threaded rod exposed above ground) and remove drive rod/steel. (A 1”-2” pilot hole may be required in very hard soils).

7. Replace the base rail assemblies into position over the threaded anchor rod.

8. Remeasure length, width and squareness of your structure and adjust accordingly.

9. Lock anchor into position and place flat washer and retaining nut onto threaded anchor rod and tighten.

10. Repeat Step-9 for all remaining anchor rods.

11. Z-Clips are placed about 4” away from vertical insert tube.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS (CONTINUED):

METHOD #4: Anchoring to ground with re-bar anchors in concrete caissons.

To make certain your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint (top surface of the base rail). With all necessary measurements made and the assembled base rails squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows:

1. Place a ground anchor beside the base rail, 6” from a vertical insert tube; use the insert tube as a guide to mark the ground at the location of the anchor hole.

2. Repeat step 1 at each frame vertical tube location.

3. Move base rail assemblies to one side; dig a hole at each marked location. You may want to rent a gas-powered post-hole digger with an 8” or 12” auger for this job.

For most areas, a hole either 8” in diameter and 30” deep, or 12” diameter x 21” deep, will be adequate.

4. Place the base rail assemblies back into position over the holes.

5. Re-measure length, width and squareness of your structure; adjust as needed.

6. Drop or drive a ground anchor at each anchor hole and fasten A-clip to base rail using four #12 x 1” Tek screws.

7. Prepare concrete mix and pour into each hole, up to ground level. (You may want to rent a cement mixer for this job.)

8. Before concrete sets, re-measure length, width and squareness of your structure and adjust accordingly.

9. Allow concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before installing the roof/wall frame assemblies.

These foundation sizes in this booklet are examples only. If you did not purchase Engineer Plans, then make sure to check with your local city/county codes for specifications on any foundations you may need.

ROOF / WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY:

On the ground, assemble as follows;

NOTE: You can use the first assembly as a template to assemble the remaining Roof/Wall Frames.

1. Place a Rafter onto each end of a Peak Bend.

2. Insert an eave connector into each rafter of previous assembly.

3. Place a Height Extension onto each free end of each eave connector on previous assembly.

4. Before you fasten the joints, take a measurement across the top and bottom of the assembly. This outside measurement is the width of your building. Adjust the slip joints between the rafter and eave connector to obtain the desired width as needed, try to keep the joint spacing on both sides of the assembly equal. It is very helpful to drive stakes into the ground at the width of the building and use them to set the dimension at the bottom of the assembly. You should set the bottom dimension before you adjust and set the top dimension (both dimensions should be equal).

5. Now, fasten the joints with #12 x 1” self-drilling screws, (6) screws per connection.

6. Place first frame assembly on flat surface (foundation floor), to use as a guide for the remaining frames.

7. Repeat Step-1 thru Step-5 for each of the remaining frames, assembling the next frame on top of the previous frame to keep all frames uniform.

8. The internal frames may require truss bracing; if this is the case refer to their respective instructions for assembly. (Note: The first and last frame will not require truss bracing).

9. For structures with eave side garage door frames, one side of the Roof/Wall frame assembly will have the standard side height extension, while the other side will have the modified height extension cut to fit accordingly. (see provided drawings if you purchased eave side garage door frames)

10. While frames are stacked, mark each frame assembly according to instructions for hat channel placement and/or roof panel placement.

11. The actual eave height is on the eave side, directly lined up with the top of the roof decking.

ROOF / WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY:

TRUSS BRACING:

Truss Bracing may or may not be required for your size of structure; this will depend based on two things;

1. The size of the structure.

2. The specific design load requirements for the area where the structure is to be located.

Be sure to check your material list to see if you have truss bracing. If not, then skip this part and go to „INSTALLING

ROOF/WALL FRAMES TO BASE RAILS‟.

It's easier to install the truss bracing to the roof/wall frame assembly while laying it down on the ground.

Truss parts are not listed on your Material List. They are list on the provided „Truss Assembly‟ drawing. The Material List shows how many Truss Assemblies are provided with your kit.

COLLAR-TIE ASSEMBLY:

The Collar-Tie Assembly is made up of three parts;

(1) Center-Tie 2”x2”x48” with inserts (reduced) ends.

(2) End-Ties 2”x2”xLength (length of End-Ties depends on the width of the structure).

To assemble the Collar-Ties follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Place one End-Tie on each end of the Center-Tie.

2. Fasten each End-Tie into place with (4) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws. (Note: Make certain that the assembly remains straight while you install the screws).

3. Place a Left Collar-Tie Bracket at Left end of Collar-Tie Assembly.

4. Fasten the Collar-Tie Bracket into place with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

5. Repeat Step-3 and Step-4 for Right side of Collar-Tie Assembly.

COLLAR-TIE TO ROOF/WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY:

To assemble Collar-Tie Assembly onto the Roof/Wall Frame follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Center the Collar-Tie in the Roof/Wall Frame.

2. Fasten the Collar-Tie Bracket to the Roof/Wall Frame Rafters with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

Check Engineering Plans (if applicable) if more fasteners are needed for the collar tie bracket.

3. Repeat Step-1 and Step-2 to attach remaining Collar-Tie Assemblies to Roof/Wall Frame Assemblies.

TYPE-2 (POST-TRUSS) BRACE ASSEMBLY:

Assemble the Collar-Tie as shown in the previous page. Next, locate the center of the collar-tie assembly and make a reference mark.

Remember as you are building the roof/wall frames in a stack the end walls do not require a truss brace so the first and last roof/wall frames in the stack will not have any type of truss bracing.

To assemble the Type-2 Post Truss Brace follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Center the Vertical Post Brace at the peak component and collar-tie centers.

2. Fasten the top of the Vertical Post Brace to the peak using (2) 2” x 4” flat brackets with (6) #12x1” Self-

Drilling Tek Screws per bracket (Install front bracket while on ground and the back bracket while it is standing up). (Note: Make certain that the post brace remains centered and perpendicular to collar-tie while you fasten the screws).

3. Fasten the bottom of the Vertical Post Brace to the collar-tie using (1) 2” x 4” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

4. Repeat Step-1 through Step-3 for remaining Truss Assemblies.

TYPE-4 (TRI-TRUSS) BRACE ASSEMBLY:

Assemble the Collar-Tie as shown in the previous page. Next, locate the center of the collar-tie assembly and make a reference mark.

Remember as you are building the roof/wall frames in a stack the end walls do not require a truss brace so the first and last brace in the stack will not have any type of truss bracing.

To assemble the Collar-Ties follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Center the Vertical Post Brace at the peak component and collar-tie centers.

2. Fasten the top of the Vertical Post Brace to the peak using (2) 2” x 4” flat brackets with (6) #12x1” Self-

Drilling Tek Screws per bracket (Install front bracket while on ground and the back bracket while it is standing up). (Note: Make certain that the post brace remains centered and perpendicular to collar-tie while you fasten the screws).

3. Fasten the bottom of the Vertical Post Brace to the collar-tie using (1) 4” x 6” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

4. Place a Tri-Brace on one side of Truss Assembly flush against collar-tie and vertical post brace 4” x 6” flat bracket, then lift opposite end flush against rafter.

5. Fasten the top of the Tri-Brace to rafter using (1) 2” x 4” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

6. Fasten the bottom of the Tri-Brace flush against 4” x 6” flat bracket with (3) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

7. Repeat Step-1 through Step-6 for remaining Truss Assemblies.

INSTALLING ROOF / WALL FRAMES TO BASE RAILS:

NOTE: It will take at least two people to assemble the smaller (14‟- 18‟) wide units. Wider units (20‟ -40‟) with a shorter primary eave height (7.5‟ – 8.5‟) may require more. 30‟-40‟ wide units with higher eave heights will require the use of a mechanical lift (reach forklift) due to the peak height.

Reach Forklifts are available at most rental yards. Most rental companies will rent by the half day or have a minimum rental.

Wait until the roof/wall assembly is complete and the base rails are anchored before you rent the lift and it will probably take less than one hour to stand all of the roof/wall frames.

Start at one end of the building and position the roof/wall frame on the base rail insert. The end walls do not have truss braces. Continue this process until all of the roof/wall frames are in position. If you made a chalk line on the insert pins as described in the helpful hints, wait until all of the roof/wall frames are in position and go back and align the bottom of the height extension with the chalk line. Fasten each connection with a minimum of (3) evenly spaced #12 x 1‟‟ self-drilling screws.

TYPICAL WALL UNIT FRAME TO BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY

SQUARING UP YOU FRAME:

Before installing the Front Enclosure, the Back Enclosure and any Roof Purlins, you may want to check the Roof/Wall Frame Assemblies to make sure that they are plumb, square and that all side post heights are equal.

To do this;

1. Using a level, check the front and back wall sections to make sure that they are plumb.

2. Using a level, check at the outside of the sidewall posts to make sure that they are plumb.

3. Secure front and back roof/wall frames.

Attach two strings to the side posts from front to back at the eave connectors as shown in the drawing. This will allow you to see if any of the side posts are too high, too low or out of plumb. If adjustments must be made, do the following;

1. Remove the wall post to base rail joint screws and raise the low post as much as possible or hammer down the high post as much as possible.

2. Reinstall the wall post to base rail joint screws.

3. Repeat Step-1 and Step-2 for each wall post.

4. Repeat Step-1 through Step-3 for opposite side of building.

NOTE: This is not a critical step in the assembly process, but it may improve the appearance of your building. If the side posts are out of plane with other side posts more than a 1/2”, it may be visible on the finished building.

INSTALLING BACK BASE RAILS:

The Back Enclosure is the assembly of frame components that enclose the back of the building. The components will be of 2” x 2” tubing. Lay out the Base Rail components as shown in the illustration. (SEE PROVIDED DRAWINGS FOR YOUR SPECIFIC STRUCTURE). When you have the base rail assembly together, position it between the side base rail assemblies as shown in the illustration. A chalk line between the end base rails will serve as a guide to keep the assembly straight. Fasten the end base rails to the side base rails using an Angle Bracket and (6) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws as shown. Fasten the EW-T Connectors with (4) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws per connection (12 total for each EW-T Connector) (ANCHOR THE BASE RAILS TO THE CONCRETE AS

YOU DID THE SIDE BASE RAILS).

INSTALLING BACK VERTICALS:

The length of the verticals are shown in the provided drawings. Place the verticals onto the base rail pins (do not install screws at this time), plumb the verticals, slide the vertical tube up to touch the rafter or peak and attach it with a Flat Bracket and (6) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws on the OUTSIDE of the building. Gable trim will cover this area later. Then, fasten the verticals to the base rail pins with (4) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws. The reason for this is because all ground/foundations may not be perfectly flat. This will allow you to adjust the verticals up or down if needed to keep the rafters on top at their appropriate slope.

If you have a garage door on the back endwall, you can follow the illustration on the next page.

This is a sample of an endwall showing basic parts and placement. Be sure to check provided drawings for your specific structure layout.

Sidewall part drawings and sidewall panel drawings are not usually included with your packet, unless there is something custom involved, such as garage door framing, add-ons, etc. If your structure includes just window frames and/or ped door frames, then sidewall drawings are not included, due to those two being field locate and sample illustrations are included in these instructions.

INSTALLING FRONT BASE RAILS AND VERTICALS:

GARAGE DOORS: THE BASIC GARAGE BUILDING COMES WITH 1 GARAGE (OR OVERHEAD) DOOR

OPENING. WIDER BUILDINGS CAN ALSO HAVE A DOUBLE DOOR OPENING.

Join the Base Rail tubes as shown. The Base Rails are all 2”X2" tubes. See provided drawings for base rail lengths.

Measure and mark the location for the base rails and anchor with expansion bolts as you did the side base rails.

NOTE: Leave the nuts slightly loose so you can install the vertical tubes. Attach the end base rails to the side base rail pins with Angle brackets as you did on the back base-rail ends after the vertical tubes are installed. THE DOOR

OPENINGS SHOULD BE THE SAME SIZE AS THE GARAGE DOORS.

Assemble the Door Vertical Tubes (jambs), Header Vertical and verticals (see drawing for parts and location). .

Place the tube onto the base rail pins (do not install screws at this time), plumb the tubes, slide the tubes up to touch the rafter or peak and attach it with a Flat Bracket and (6) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws on the OUTSIDE of the building. Gable trim will cover this area later. Be sure to leave a space the width of the garage door between the Door Jambs to install the door header. Then, fasten the tubes to the base rail pins, or „L‟ Connectors with (4) #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws. The reason for this is because all ground/foundations may not be perfectly flat. This will allow you to adjust the tubes up or down if needed to keep the rafters on top at their appropriate slope.

Assemble the Door Header components as listed in the illustration and fasten them to the Door Jambs with Angle Brackets on the top of the header. Install the vertical Header Brace in the center above the Door Header with 2 Angle Brackets at the bottom and a Flat Bracket at the top on the outside of the building. The brace should be level.

You may find it easier to attach the brackets to the header brace on the ground.

This is a sample of an endwall showing basic parts and placement. Be sure to check provided drawings for your specific structure layout.

HAT CHANNEL INSTRUCTIONS:

Use the roof hat channels as guides. Position the hat channel on the outside of the base rails and 1” in from endwall as shown below. Mark the height extension layout to the hat channel. Use these marks to line up the frames when attaching to the roof. If more than one length of hat channel is required, be sure to butt-up both pieces centered on a height extension where they meet.

When you have the base-rail layout marked on the hat channel (a felt pen or Sharpie works well), it is time to fasten the hat channel to the roof.

DO NOT FASTEN HAT CHANNEL AT SHOWN LOCATION. HAT CHANNEL ATTACHES ONTO ROOF.

The purpose of this step is to assure that the frames are standing perfectly even with each other.

HAT CHANNEL PLACEMENT:

To properly locate the Hat Channel on the roof, follow the instructions and use the diagram below. When you have completed the assembly of the roof/wall frames and while they are still laid out flat as per the HELPFUL HINT, measure and place a mark on the Top frame assembly to lay out the hat channel locations as follows;

The measurements shown are:

1. For the upper hat channel measure 4 inches from the peak to locate its top edge.

2. For the lower hat channel, it will be placed flush with the edge of the eave corner bracket.

3. Dimensions start at the bottom edge of bottom hat channel and end at the top edge of the top hat channel.

All dimensions for intermediate hat channels measurements are to center of hat channels.

4. Using a straight edge, mark all other roof/wall frames at each location measured.

5. Hat Channels are placed about 1” in from first frame‟s outside edge.

Taking the time to do this step will eliminate having to measure and mark the frame assemblies once they are standing, also saving many trips up and down the ladder. Once the hat channel is in place, it will act as a straight edge and when properly installed will insure that the walls are straight, improving the overall appearance of your building.

__OTHER-SEE DRAWINGS

INSTALLING ROOF HAT CHANNEL AND WALL GIRTS:

Side or end girts have two types of connector brackets. (1) Single Brackets which are used to attach girts at the ends of the building, windows and/or doorways and (2) Double Brackets which are used to attach girts in the center section of the building. (Two girts, one on either side of a 2” wide frame member). Use #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws to fasten brackets to girts or frame. Use Pan Head Screws on the Single Bracket Tab (see detail below). Hat channel is attached to the roof frame with (1) #12 x 1" screw on both sides of the flange. Be sure to fasten connectors to girts/frame using all pre-drilled holes. See illustrations below to see which bracket takes how many screws. If (2) SG-30 brackets happen to overlap on one frame, then one can sit on top of the other. Use the self-drilling tek screws to drill through the bracket and into the frame. This is ok to do, if you get (2) tek screws into the bracket and into the frame. This will not affect your panels (if applicable).

GIRTS -1 1/2" x 1 1/2" Tube

NOTE: When installing hat channel on the roof, it is helpful to clamp it at one or both ends with a vise grip type clamp while installing the self-drilling screws. The DG-31W Wide Double Girt Connector is used on the top row on the eave sides where 2 girts are connected to 1 frame as shown here.

INSTALLING ROOF HAT CHANNEL AND WALL GIRTS (CONTINUED):

Keep in mind that this illustration is an example. Check provided drawings for you specific structure size, shape and window/door locations (if applicable).

INSTALLING ROOF HAT CHANNEL AND WALL GIRTS (CONTINUED):

SIDE AND ROOF GIRT AND PURLIN SPACING:

NOTE: To properly locate purlin or girt brackets down the length of the building, measure and mark the bracket locations on the roof/wall sections at both ends of the building and snap a chalk line from the marks on one end of your building to the other. This will keep all of the brackets lined up.

GIRTS ON SIDE OF BUILDING:

__Other-See drawings

Girts are cut ¼” shorter than given space in between vertical framing for „give‟. For example, the space provided for a 5‟ O.C. structure in between framing on the eave sides is 58”. The girt(s) to fit for that space are provided at 57 ¾”.

Vertical measurements for girts start from the bottom of the Baserail up to the bottom of the girt(s). Girts on the front and back of the building usually line up with the side girts. Be sure to check provided drawings for your specific structure. Girts are 1-1/2” square, unless noted otherwise.

Distances and locations may vary. Check provided drawings.

SIDE WALK DOOR FRAME AND OPTIONAL WINDOW FRAME ASSEMBLY:

The Door Frame Assembly is made up of two parts;

(1) Door Header Tube 2”x3”x45 3/4” (for 4‟ O.C.) or 2”x3”x57 3/4” (for 5‟O.C.).

(1) Door Jamb Tube 2”x3”x82”.

These combined with the Frame Side Post to create a 37 3/4” x 82” rough opening for your door.

The Window Frame Assembly is made up of four parts;

(2) Window Header Tubes 2”x3”x45 3/4” (for 4‟ O.C.) or 2”x3”x57 3/4” (for 5‟O.C.).

(2) Window Jamb Tubes 2”x3”x36”.

These combine between the Frame Side Posts to create a 36” x 36” rough opening for your window.

Doors and windows could either have 1 or 2 jambs. Check provided drawings if available and material list.

Note that headers are cut ¼” shorter than given space in between vertical framing for „give‟.

The Door and Window sizes as noted are standard sizes; you have the option of selecting different door and window size. In the case that a different size is selected, position the door or window in place to use as a guide for determining the exact size opening required and for locating the header/headers and jamb/jambs.

To assemble the Door Frame and/or Window Frame follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

1. Position the Door/Window Header between the Frame Side Posts at the desired height (Note: measure and mark the exact location before proceeding).

2. Fasten each end with (1) Angle Bracket and (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws. (Note: Make certain that the header remains in place while you install the screws).

3. Position the Door/Window Jamb/Jambs into place (Note: measure and mark the exact location as needed before proceeding).

4. Fasten each end with (1) Angle Bracket and (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws. (Note: Make certain that the jamb remains in place while you install the screws).

INSTALLING SIDE WALL PANELS:

Side panel lengths may vary depending on what kind of foundation you have. See the following illustration for your type of foundation to see what lengths your side panel lengths will be. Endwall panels will also be 3” longer if the sidewall panels are.

Start at one corner of the building. (It is preferred that you chose a corner that is away from the prevailing wind).

Make sure that the frame is plumb when installing the first side panel. All additional panels will depend on the first panel being plumb and square. If you have a structure with a length that is divisible by 3‟ (i.e. 30‟, 36‟, etc.) then start first panel 1” in from end of frame. That way, the last panel will end at 1” in from end of frame, being that panels have a coverage of 3‟.

1. Remove (I/S) Inside Foam Closure from backing paper and attach to base rail the length of building.

2. Carefully place the first panel overlap edge at the starting corner of the building and the bottom edge on the slab sheeting ledge or at the bottom edge of the base rail if no sheeting ledge is available. This will allow you to easily overlap the second panel over the first and so on down the length of the building.

3. Attach the panels to girts and base rail with #12 x 1" Painted, Self-Drilling Panel Screws with rubber washers. Place one screw about 3/4" to one side of each major rib.

(NOTE: IT is important to keep the panels from stretching or compressing in width as you install them, each panel should be 36" from the center of the major rib on one side of the panel to the center of the major rib at the other side of the panel. Measure each panel as you go or pre-mark the building frame every 36" to check the panel width as you go).

Remember to be careful not to scratch up the bottom of the panels as you place and adjust them on the concrete slab or sheeting ledge.

Tip: To keep the screws in a straight line down the length of the building, install screws next to the 1st major rib.

Hold a straight edge between the center point of the screw and the center of the girt at the other side of the panel and mark dots along that line where the remaining screws will be located with a felt tip marker. You can also tie a small loop in one end of a string, hook it over the first screw and draw the string to the center of the girt. While holding the string taut, use a felt marker to mark location points for the remaining screws.

INSTALLING SIDE WALL PANELS (CONTINUED):

Closures only go under roof ridge cap and around the bottom perimeter of structure.

When overlapping all structure panels (as shown below) overlap 1 rib only, unless otherwise noted.

*USE THIS SCREW PATTERN FOR ALL PANELS ON STRUCTURE.

INSTALLING BACK ENDWALL PANELS:

Always work from the left side toward the right. See provided drawings for your specific structure. The drawings will give you the panel lengths and locations.

The length or heights of the sheet metal panels are sized to fit your building. To cut the roof angle on the top of the panel measure down on the outside edge of the panel 9" and make a mark. Now, draw a line between the upper corner and the mark. This will be the angle cut for the roof pitch (3/12). Cut with large straight cut tin snips. Fasten the first panel to the back girts with 1" painted self-drilling screws with rubber washers. DO NOT PLACE ANY SCREWS NEXT TO THE OVERLAP RIB UNTIL YOU LIFT AND INSERT THE UNDERLAP EDGE OF THE NEXT

PANEL IN THAT DIRECTION.

Note that panels going to one side of the building will lap under the previous panel. You will need to leave out the screws in the overlap rib until the next panel is installed.

Measure and trim the top angle on the remaining panels as you did the first and second panels. When you reach the opposite side of the building, trim the last panel to be flush with the building frame. (NOTE: The edge can ex-tend out about 3/4" and still fit under the corner trim.)

INSTALLING FRONT ENDWALL PANELS:

Measure, mark and cut the top angle on the front panels as you did the back panels. You can measure and cut the door openings OR put the panels up against the building, mark the door openings, take the panels down and cut out the openings. Cut horizontal across the ribs with large, straight-cut tin snips first. To make the vertical cut, you can use aviation snips.

INSTALLING OPTIONAL PEDESTRIAN DOOR TRIM:

Cut two pieces of Side J-Trim to fit from the bottom of the sheeting ledge on the slab to the top of the door frame.

Cut one piece of Top J-Trim 2” longer than the door frame. (Note that this piece of J-Trim will extend out beyond the doorframe to the ends of the Side J-Trim front flange on both sides of the door. You may want to place the Side J-Trim on both sides of the door frame and take a measurement to check that distance before you cut the Top J-Trim.) Attach the Side J-Trim on both sides of the door with clamps. Clip two 1” long slits in the ends of the Top J-Trim as shown below. (Both ends of the Top J-Trim) Place the Top J-Trim on top of the Side J-Trim over the door and fold the tabs that you created at the ends of the Top J-Trim down into the top of the Side J-Trim. Attach the Top J-Trim at both ends with clamps. You may find it easier to slip the J-trim in place as the side panels are attached.

The panel screws will hold it in place.

INSTALLING OPTIONAL WINDOW TRIM:

Cut a piece of Bottom J-Trim 2” longer than the window width. Center it along the bottom of the window and fasten it at both ends with clamps if needed. Clip two 1” long slits in both ends of the Bottom J-Trim as shown below and fold up. Cut two pieces of Side J-Trim to fit from the top of the bottom J-Trim that you just installed to the top of the window. Fasten both pieces of side J-Trim at both ends inside of folded-up tabs with clamps if needed.

Cut one piece of J-Trim to fit from the outside edge of the front flange on one side J-Trim to the other. The distance will be about 2” longer than the window frame. Clip two 1” long slits in both ends of the Top J-Trim as shown below.

Place the Top J-Trim on top of the Side J-Trim and fold the end tabs that you created down into the Side J-Trim channels. Fasten the Top J-Trim at both ends with clamps if needed. Fasten J-Trim with panel screws first through side panels, J-Trim and then into framing.

Again, you may wish to slide the window and window trim in place when the side panels are attached. The panel screws will hold the trim in place.

INSTALLING GARAGE DOOR ANGLE TRIM:

Cut two pieces of Angle Trim to fit from the concrete slab to the top of the door jamb (bottom of the door header) for each door. This will trim out the door jambs.

Cut one piece of Angle Trim to fit the inside width of the garage door opening. This will trim out the door header.

Fasten the Angle Trim with Painted #12 x 1” Self-Drilling Screws with Rubber Washers every 2‟.

ORDER OF INSTALLATION:

1. ANGLE TRIM.

2. J-TRIM.

INSTALLING GARAGE DOOR J-TRIM:

Cut two pieces of J-Trim to fit from the bottom of the sheeting ledge to the top of the door jamb (bottom of the door header). This will be the side J-Trim. Attach the Side J-Trim first at both ends and two additional places equally spaced from top to bottom with clamps. See illustration below for location of Side J-Trim.

Top J-Trim: Cut a piece of J-Trim 2” longer than your door width and cut two 1” slits in both ends as shown in detail.

The slits will create tabs that will fold down into the door jamb Side J-Trim. See illustration. Place the Top J-Trim on top of the Side J-Trim along the door header. Fold the end tabs, that you created with the 1”slits down into the J- Trim channel and attach at both ends.

INSTALLING CORNER TRIM:

Install Corner Trim on the 4 corners of the building with 1" Painted, Self-Drilling Screws. Install the screws through the flat flanges at the edges of the trim, into the wall girts and base rail.

INSTALLING EAVE TRIM:

After installing the sidewall panels of the building, follow the instructions and diagram below to properly locate the eave trim along both sides of the building. To position the trim use a straight piece of wood or a level on top of roof frame to act as a stop and then proceed as follows;

1. Starting at back corner of building and overlapping the corner trim, place a piece of Eave Trim over the side sheet metal panels and attach with #14 x 7/8” painted stitch screws, placing one screw at the center of every other major panel rib.

2. Position the next piece of Eave Trim, overlapping the previous piece by about three inches and attach with #14 x 7/8” stitch screws, placing one screw at the center of every other major panel rib.

3. Repeat Step-2 for remaining pieces of Eave Trim up to the end of the building.

4. Trim off excess Eave Trim at end of building.

5. Repeat Steps-1 through Steps-4 for other side of building.

INSTALLING ROOF PANELS:

YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST TWO PEOPLE TO INSTALL ROOF SHEET METAL PANELS

One person will be on a tall step ladder, extension ladder, or scaffold inside the building at the building peak and the other on the outside of the building at the eave. An additional person on the inside of the building on a step ladder close to the side wall can be helpful in lifting the panels onto the roof.

The roof metal is sized to allow about a 6" overhang at the eave. See illustration on next page. Measure 4" down from the center of the peak component and drive a 1" self-drilling screw into the front of the frame about half way in at your mark. This screw will be an anchor for a mason line (or string) to be stretched from the front of the building to the back. This string will be used to locate the top of the roof sheet metal and keep it straight down the length of the building. Measure and drive another screw into the outside of the frame at the back of the building. Tie and stretch a mason line or nylon string between the two screws.

Place the first sheet of roof sheet metal at the front or back edge of the roof flush with the outside of the building frame.